DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 112-11
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
150-175-200-225-250-275 g colour no 08, blue

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 threads Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons, no 522: 5 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

DECREASING TIP (neckline):
Dec after 8 garter sts as follows: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
Dec as follows before 8 garter sts: K2 tog.

BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 7, 15, 23, 31 and 38 cm.
SIZE M: 7, 15, 23, 31 and 39 cm.
SIZE L: 7, 16, 24, 32 and 40 cm.
SIZE XL: 7, 16, 24, 33 and 41 cm.
SIZE XXL: 7, 16, 25, 34 and 42 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 7, 16, 25, 34 and 43 cm.


BACK PIECE: Cast on 70-76-84-92-100-110 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Kid-Silk. Work 4 rows garter st – see above – and continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 10 cm dec 1 st each side on every 5 cm a total of 3 times = 64-70-78-86-94-104 sts. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm inc 1 st each side on every 3 cm a total of 5 times = 74-80-88-96-104-114 sts. When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm cast off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1-1-1-1-1-2 times, 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 st 1-3-3-4-4-4 times = 60-62-64-66-68-70 sts. When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm work 4 rows garter st on 36 sts mid back (work remaining sts as before). Now cast off the middle 20 sts for neck = 20-21-22-23-24-25 sts left on each shoulder. Complete each shoulder separately with 8 garter sts towards neckline. Cast off when piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 40-43-47-51-55-60 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 8 front band sts towards mid front, worked in garter st throughout) on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Kid-Silk. Work 4 rows garter st and continue in stocking st with front band in garter st. When piece measures 7 cm make buttonhole on front band – see above. When piece measures 10 cm dec at the side as described for back piece = 37-40-44-48-52-57 sts. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm inc at the side as described for back piece = 42-45-49-53-57-62 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece measures approx 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm work 2 rows garter st on the 8 front band sts only. Continue on all sts and dec 1 st for neckline – SEE DECREASING TIP – on every other row 4 times and then on every 4th row 10 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. When all dec for armhole and neckline are complete there are 20-21-22-23-24-25 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: Like right front piece, but mirrored and without buttonholes.

SLEEVE: Cast on 50-52-54-56-58-60 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Kid-Silk. Work 4 rows garter st and continue in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm dec 1 st each side on every 2 cm 5 times = 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts. When piece measures 13 cm inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 3.5-3-2.5-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times = 60-64-68-72-76-80 sts. When piece measures 49-48-46-45-44-43 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3-4-6-7-8-9 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 57 cm.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves and sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Lineke wrote:

Would like to make cardigan with needles 5 and wool hobbit amigo xl. Can I use the measures as indicated in this free pattern

02.02.2021 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lineke, this pattern has been worked for a tension of 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm. Should you need any assistance adjusting the pattern, please contact the store where you bought the yarn, we are unfortunateley not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

02.02.2021 - 16:48

country flag Francesca Antonelli wrote:

Buonasera lei potrebbe gentilmente suggerirmi come fare lo scollo rotondo in questo modello ?

31.03.2020 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Francesca, per un aiuto così personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia, purtroppo in questa sede non possiamo fornirle un'assistenza così specifica. Buon lavoro!

31.03.2020 - 22:03

country flag Evelyne Louaked wrote:

Bonjour, pourriez vous m indiquer combien il reste de mailles à rabattre a la fin pour la manche en taille M?

04.08.2019 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Evelyne! Avant de repeter les diminutions de 2 mailles de chaque cote vous avez 38 mailles. Ensuite vous repetez ces diminutions (quelques fois, cela depend de la hauteur de la manche) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 56 cm de hauteur totale. Puis vous diminuez 1 fois 3 m et a la fin il faut rabattre les mailles restantes, mais je ne peux pas vous donner un nombre precis. Bon tricot!

05.08.2019 - 08:45

country flag Wilma wrote:

Ik heb wol met een stekenverhouding van 16 st x 20 pennen (10x10 lapje). Zal ik dan een maat kleiner nemen voor het patroon, maar wel de cm aanhouden wanneer ik moet minderen of meerderen? Zou dat goed uitkomen?

26.09.2018 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wilma, Een maat kleiner is waarschijnlijk een te groot vershil. Je kan het aantal steken dat opgezet moet worden delen door 17 (de stekenverhouding in de breedte van het patroon) en dan keer 16 doen. Bij het meerderen en minderen kun je inderdaad de cm's aanhouden die aangegeven staan in het patroon bij jouw maat.

06.10.2018 - 10:23

Dawn Whittall wrote:

Hello I am new to this site but very excited to be starting a new knitting project. I have previously used old patterns which told me how many balls of wool I would need. Here I am confused in knowing how many balls of wool to order for this pattern. I want to make size large. How do I work it out? I intend to use the recommended yarn. Thanks so much, Dawn

29.07.2018 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dawn, you can find information about material - which yarn and how much of it - in header of each pattern, close to the main photo. Amount of yarn we give not in balls, but in grams (we count only whole balls). For this model we use DROPS Kid Silk, which is produced in 25 g balls, so for size large you need 200 g of this yarn = 8 balls. Happy knitting!

29.07.2018 - 14:55

country flag Kristina wrote:

Hallo, ich würde gern dieses Modell mit 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk stricken. Geht das, und rechne ich die Menge der Knäuel so aus, dass ich die benötigte Lauflänge durch zwei teile (weil ja hier nur mit einem Faden gestrickt wird)?

09.12.2014 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kristina, ja, das geht gut - 2 Fäden Kid-Silk (Garngruppe A) entsprechen 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk (Garngruppe C). Und genau, Sie teilen die Gesamtlauflänge durch 2, weil Sie ja den Faden nicht doppelt nehmen müssen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken und gutes Gelingen!

10.12.2014 - 22:52

country flag Marga Hoogeboom wrote:

Ik wil het vest breien met safran. Moet je dan ook twee draden gebruiken?

19.08.2014 - 19:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marga. Ja, maar brei een proeflapje om de stekenverhouding voor het patroon correct te krijgen. Je kan ook proberen met 1 draad en zien of je de structuur mooier vindt - maar het is hier ook belangrijk dat de stekenverhouding correct is.

20.08.2014 - 17:13

country flag Linda wrote:

Jättefin!

26.01.2009 - 08:55

country flag Verena wrote:

Die hat es mir auch angetan, ich weiß gar nicht wo ich anfangen soll. Toll!

16.01.2009 - 04:33

country flag Satin wrote:

Super schönes Teil

10.01.2009 - 21:24