DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Desert Bloom

DROPS Nostalgic poncho crochet in Alpaca and Cotton Viscose and crochet necklace and bracelet

DROPS 94-10
Poncho:
Size: S/M – M/L – XL/XXL
Because of the weight of the yarn, the poncho will “grow” approx. 5-8 cm when you put it on, compared to measurements in measurement chart.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-200-250 g colour no. 0100, off white
and use:
DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
300-350-400 g, colour no. 02, off white

Drops crochet hook size 5 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge
Drops crochet hook size 3 mm for the buttons
Accessories: 3 buttons approx 2 cm in diameter to crochet round.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet Gauge: 12 tr x 7 rows with 1 thread of Alpaca and 1 thread of Cotton Viscose = 10 x 10 cm.
12 dtr x 5 rows = 10 x 10 cm. 1 report in pattern = width approx 12 cm.

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row substitute 1 dc with a ch, 1 tr with 3 ch and 1 dtr with 4 ch.
Pattern: See diagram 1 – diagram 2 shows the repeat in the width.

PONCHO
Crochet the piece from the top and down.
Crochet loosely 70-76-84 ch on hook size 5 with 1 thread of Alpaca and 1 thread of Cotton Viscose. Crochet 1st row as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch from the hook, 1 tr in each remaining 66-72-80 ch = 68-74-82 tr. Turn the piece. Read crochet info! Continue to crochet tr’s forward and backward at the same time inc as follows (to inc 1 tr crochet 2 tr’s in 1 tr):

Size S/M: Inc 1 tr in every other tr but finish with only 1 tr in the last tr = 101 tr. Crochet 1 row without inc. On the next row inc 1 tr in every 3rd tr = 134 tr. Crochet 2 rows without any inc. On the next row inc. 47 tr evenly distributed on row = 181tr

Size M/L: Inc 1 tr in every other tr but finish with only 1 tr in the last tr = 110 tr. Crochet 1 row without inc. On the next row inc 1 tr in every 3rd tr = 146 tr. Crochet 1 row without any inc. On the next row inc. 1 tr in every 4th tr = 182 tr. Crochet 1 row without any inc, and on the next row inc. 35 tr evenly distributed on row = 217 tr.

Size XL/XXL: Inc 1 tr in every other tr but finish with only 1 tr in the last tr = 122 tr. Crochet 1 row without inc. On the next row inc 1 tr in every 3rd tr = 162 tr. Crochet 1 row without any inc. On the next row inc. 1 tr in every 4th tr = 202 tr. Crochet 2 rows without any inc, and on the next row inc. 51 tr evenly distributed on row = 253 tr.

When all inc. are complete the piece measures 10-11-13 cm. Now crochet pattern – see diagram 1. Crochet 2 repeats, but start the second repeat in the row marked with arrows. Now crochet 2-3-4 rows of dtr as follows: NB: If you want to adjust the length of the poncho either add or subtract a row of dtr’s.

1st row: Remember crochet info: Crochet 1 dtr around each ch-loop with a ch in between = 90-109-127 dtr, turn the piece.
2nd row: Crochet 1 dtr into each dtr but instead of 1 ch in between crochet 2 ch’s – Size S/M finish here before the last pattern repeat = 91 dtr’s.
3rd row: Crochet a dtr in each dtr but now crochet 3 ch’s in between each dtr instead of 2 ch – size M/L finish here before the last pattern repeat = 109 dtr’s.
4th row: Crochet 1 dtr into each dtr with 3 ch’s in between each dtr. Size XL/XXL finish here before the last pattern repeat = 127 dtr’s.

After the last row of dtr crochet Diagram 1 again from the beginning, but finish the pattern after the 7th row in diagram – NB: Crochet 1st row in diagram as follows so the pattern fits: 3 ch (=1 tr), 1 ch, *1 tr around the ch-loop, 1 ch, 1 tr around the next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* to the end of the row = 180-216-252 ch-loops.

Buttons: Crochet a “cover” for the 3 buttons with Cotton Viscose as follows: Crochet 2 ch, continue to crochet 16 tr in the 1st of the 2 ch crochet, finish off with a sl st in the top of the 1st tr (= 1st round 1).
2nd round: Crochet 1 dc into each tr and finish off with a sl st in the 1st dc from beginning of round.
3rd round: Crochet 1 tr into every other dc and finish off with a sl st in the 1st tr from beginning of the round = 8 tr.
Put the buttons into the cover, sew around the edge and pull together. Sew the buttons on the right side of the poncho. The top button should be approx 1 cm from the edge and leave 4-6 cm in between the others.

Button loop: Crochet loops for the buttons on left side as follows: 1 dc in the corner of the neck, 1 dc into the same st, *4 ch, skip 3-3.5-4 cm, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat a total of 3 times - a total of 3 loops matching the location of the buttons.


NECKLACE AND BRACELET
Length: Necklace: 60 cm. Bracelet: 35 cm

Materials: Alpaca and Cotton Viscose. Leftovers from the Poncho

Drops crochet hook size 3 mm for the buttons and size 5 mm for flowers and chain.
Drops mother of pearl button, no. 521: 2 pcs.
Accessories: 1 button approx. 2 cm in diameter to crochet round.


Necklace:
Flower: Crochet 4 ch on hook size 5 mm with 1 thread of Alpaca and 1 thread of Cotton Viscose and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: 3 ch (=1 tr), crochet 13 tr around the loop and finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 1 tr in the 1st of the 1st of the 4 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in the next tr*, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times but finish with a sl st in the sl st from the end for the previous round (instead of a dc in the next st) = 7 leaves. To make a small loop on the backside of the flower, use the thread end from the beginning and crochet 1 dc in the centre of the flower, 2 ch, and attach with a sl st.
Chain: Crochet 2 ch on hook size 5 mm with 1 thread of Alpaca and 1 thread of Cotton Viscose, crochet 1 sl st and 1 dc in the 1st ch crochet. Continue with ch’s until the chain is approx 60 cm and finish with a dc and a sl st in the second but last ch. Cut and sew the threads. Crochet 2 flowers – see explanation above. Sew a mother of pearl button in the centre of 1 flower and pull them on the chain. Crochet a button with 1 thread of Cotton Viscose on hook size 3 as explained under Poncho. Crochet 1 loop on the backside of the button the same way as done for the flowers and pull the button on the chain.


Bracelet: Crochet 2 ch on hook size 5 mm with 1 thread o Alpaca and 1 thread of Cotton Viscose. Crochet a sl st and a dc in the 1st crochet ch. Continue with ch’s until the bracelet measures 35 cm and finish with a dc and a sl st in the second last ch. Cut and sew the thread. Crochet 1 flower – see explanation above. Sew a mother of pearl button in the centre of the flower and pull it on the bracelet chain.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in the first of the 3 ch)
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Jocelyne wrote:

Bonjour, pouvez vous me confirmer que je peux remplacer les 6 pelotes Cotton viscose actuellement épuisé par 4 pelotes de Baby alpaca silk. Avec mes remerciements.

24.06.2022 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jocelyne, tout à fait, vous pouvez utiliser un autre fil du groupe A pour remplacer Cotton Viscose, et ainsi crocheter par exemple avec 1 fil Alpaca + 1 fil Baby Alpaca Silk - ou 2 fils Baby Alpaca Silk - utiliseez notre convertisseur pour découvrir toutes les alternatives et faire calculer la nouvelle quantité. Et, comme toujours, rappelez-vous de bien réaliser votre échantillon au préalable. Bon crochet!

27.06.2022 - 08:03

country flag Rubi wrote:

Guten Tag ich habe tatsächlich eine Frage zum Diagramm. In der Text-Beschreibung sind Doppelstabchen erwähnt - da im Diagramm keine zu sehen sind bin ich etwas verwirrt?! Fangen die Doppelstäbchen mit dem Diagramm an? Alle vorherigen Reihen habe ich mit Stäbchen gehäkelt - hoffentlich ist das jetzt nicht falsch. Über eine Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen. Liebe Sonntags-Grüße von Rubi

16.02.2020 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rubi, Diagram wird mit Stäbchen gehäkelt, aber nachdem Sie das Muschelmuster 2 mal gehäkelt haben, häkeln Sie 2-3-4 (siehe Größe) Reihen mit Doppelstäbchen, dann noch mal das Muschelmuster aber von der 1. bis 7. Reihe. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

17.02.2020 - 09:13

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hi. I'm very lost on the desert bloom poncho pattern. I'm making the XL pattern and completed the 253 stitches. I'm not clear on how to proceed after that. The pattern says to refer to the diagram but then lists out 4 rows to do. I'm also confused in the diagram as to whether or not to begin each dc in the dc from the prior row and when I need to skip them ( which obviously happens). Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

28.08.2017 - 02:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sandra, when you have the 253 sts crochet diagram A a total of 2 times in height (starting 2nd repeat in row with arrows) - then crochet 4 rows of tr as explained., then crochet diagram 1 one more time as explained. Happy crocheting!

29.08.2017 - 09:22

Goedert wrote:

Gr. S/M: 1 Stb. in jedes 2. Stb. zun., aber in dem letzen Stb. wird nur 1 Stb. gehäkelt = 101 Stb. Leider verstehe ich nicht wie das sein sollte? Heisst dies ich häckele in jedes 2te St. zwei Stäbchen?

22.05.2017 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Goedert, ja genau so wird es gehäkelt: *1 Stb in das nächste Stb, 2 Stb in das nächste Stb*, von *-* wiederholen bis 1 Stb übrig ist, dann 1 Stb in das letzte Stb häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

22.05.2017 - 16:00

country flag GeasHsaj wrote:

Hello. google And Bye.

11.10.2016 - 20:33

country flag Jet wrote:

Goedenavond ik ben deze poncho aan het haken, en ik snap niet zo goed wat er met de lange lijnen word bedoeld in de laatste toer kunt u dit mij aub uitleggen. Mvg Jet Vonk

20.04.2015 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Jet. De horizontale lijnen op de laatste toer zijn lossen (net zoals de eerdere lijntjes/lossen - deze zijn alleen een beetje groter).

21.04.2015 - 13:09

country flag Fatima wrote:

Hallo, bitte bitte helft mir weiter und beantwortet mir meine Frage. Ich will weiter häkeln aber komm nicht weiter. BItte helft mir weiter. Fatima

26.11.2014 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

Antwort siehe unten!

26.11.2014 - 21:38

country flag Fatima wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine dringende Frage. und zwar im Diagramm 1 in der Reihe 5 und 6 sind diese lagen Striche ein kleiner Strich bedeutet eine Luftmasche aber was bedeuen diese langen Striche in Reihe 5 und 6, wieviel Luftmaschen sind das dann 1 oder mehrere. Bin gerade etwas iritiert.. Über eine baldige Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen damir ich schnell weiter häkeln kann. Vielen lieben Dank und verbleibe mit freundlichen Grüßen.

25.11.2014 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Fatima, jeder Strich, ob kurz oder lang, ist 1 Lm. Also sind auch mittellange und lange Striche je 1 Lm. Weiterhin gutes Gelingen!

26.11.2014 - 21:37

country flag Fabs wrote:

Bonjour, Je réalise la taille XL, je viens de finir R4 avec DB et 3ml et j'ai 127 DB. J'ai un souci pour continuer avec le diagramme : sur le diagramme il ne faut donc pas faire le tout 1er rang de mailles serrées? 2eme question, si je réalisé comme c'est écrit "1B dans l'arceau suivant, 1 ml, 1B dans l'arceau suivant", je n'obtiens pas 252 arceaux... ne faut il pas réaliser 1B 2 fois dans le même arceau et séparée par 1ml? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse!

17.03.2014 - 16:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fabs, après le rang 4 (= 127 DB), reprenez le diagramme à partir du 1er rang, mais faites le 1er rang comme indiqué (correction faite) : 3 ml (=1B), 1 ml, *1B dans l’arceau suiv, 1 ml, 1B dans la B suiv* répéter de *à* tout le rang = 252 arceaux. Bon crochet!

17.03.2014 - 18:40

country flag Kate wrote:

Silly question, but I want to clarify, the pattern states to crochet with one strand of each yarn......that means putting then two strands together as if they were one strand, correct?

17.11.2013 - 08:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kate, you are correct, this poncho is worked all the way with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Cotton Viscose held together. Happy crocheting!

18.11.2013 - 09:53