Eyssartier Marie-noelle wrote:
Bonjour Je vous remercie pour votre réponse pour les dimensions du raglan mais je ne comprends pas car je n'ai pas 264 mailles sur mon aiguille droite Dans l'attente je vous remercie de votre compréhension
21.03.2024 - 09:41DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Eyssartier, vous devez avoir 264 mailles au total = 76 pour le devant et pour le dos + 56 pour chaque manche - et vous diminuez 4 mailles pour le raglan au début et à la fin de chaque pièce (dos,devant, manche), avec 2 mailles jersey de raglan/transition entre les diminutions. Bon tricot!
21.03.2024 - 15:51Marie-noelle Eyssartier wrote:
Bonjour j'ai commencé ce pull sur de aiguilles droite en taille L je ne comprend pour les diminutions du raglan combien de mailles de chaque cotés faut il diminuer dans l'attente de je vous remercie de votre compréhension Mm eyssartier
21.03.2024 - 07:28DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Eyssartier, en taille L, vous allez diminuer (tous les 8 tours) 5 fois 4 mailles (soit 4 mailles de chaque côté de chaque fil marqueur, autrement dit vous diminuez 32 mailles à chaque fois) - vous trouverez sous le paragraphe RAGLAN comment diminuer 4 mailles - vous aviez 264 mailles - 5 x 32 = il reste 104 mailles. Bon tricot!
21.03.2024 - 08:54Marie-noelle Eyssartier wrote:
Bonjour les explications sont pour des aiguilles droites ou circulaires dans l'attente je vous remercie de votre compréhension
16.03.2024 - 16:53DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Eyssartier, on tricote d'abord le dos et le devant séparément pour les fentes côtés, puis on les tricote en rond jusqu'aux emmanchures, on met en attente et on tricote les manches en rond puis on tricote l'empiècement en rond jusqu'au col. Cette leçon pourra vous aider pour savoir comment adapter sur aiguilles droites si besoin. Bon tricot!
18.03.2024 - 08:55Sarah wrote:
Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Rumpfteil. Inder Anleitung steht: Bei einer Länge von 27-27-28-28-28-28 cm je 8-8-10-10-12-12 Maschen für die Armausschnitte an beiden Seiten des Rumpfteils abketten. Ist die cm Angabe zuzüglich der 14 cm, die am Anfang gestrickt wurden? Vielen Dank schon einmal für die Antwort :-)
10.11.2023 - 18:37Kim wrote:
I am making size medium. For the body, do I measure 10 5/8 from the start of the stockinette section or the bottom of the ribbed portion? It seems too short if measured from the bottom of the ribbing.
02.09.2023 - 15:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kim, the 27 cm/ 10 5/8 are from the cast on edge: you can see it in the schematic. This model is quite shorter than other sweaters; you can lengthen the pattern before working the Body if you would prefer it. Happy knitting!
03.09.2023 - 23:00Alike Baaij wrote:
Bij de mouw ( xl) moet ik 2 5x 2 steken meerderen. Ik begin met 44 steken. En volgens het patroon eindig ik met 70 steken. Maar als ik 15 x 2 (totaal 30) steken meerder kom ik op 74 uit.... Doe ik iets verkeerd....
21.04.2023 - 19:45DROPS Design answered:
Dag Alike,
Voor maat xl is het de bedoeling dat je 13 x 2 steken meerdert, dus in totaal 26 steken. Dan kom je op 70 steken in totaal.
24.04.2023 - 20:54Martina Berndtsson wrote:
Hej stämmer det att det är 38cm på varje varv från upplägget- blir väldigt korta armar. Stickat ytterligare en tröja med 38cm blir för kort i armen tack för svar
26.03.2023 - 17:07DROPS Design answered:
Hej Martina, du ser i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften hvordan målene hænger sammen. Selve ærmegabet bliver da 23 cm. Mål gerne i forhold til en trøje som du ved passer dig :)
12.04.2023 - 07:49Trisha wrote:
Sleeves instructions say to make first increase at 2 3/4" (or 7 cm) and then increase every 1 3/4" (or 2 1/2 cm) from there for a total of 12 times. (I'm making size L.) That would make the sleeve 21" long . . . When I compare cm to inches, my tape measures show 2 1/2 cm is 1", not 1 3/4", which would result in a sleeve approximately 17" long. Is there a misprint in the instructions? Should the increases after 2 3/4" be every 1" and not 1 3/4"? Thank you!
27.12.2022 - 17:43DROPS Design answered:
Dear Trisha, size L is 3rd size, this means you will increase on every 2,5 cm = on every 1". Or do we misunderstand your question?
04.01.2023 - 14:15Hannah wrote:
Hej. Jeg tænkte på, om man kan strikke denne sweater i Drops Brushed alpaca silk i stedet? Og hvis ja, hvordan ændrer det fastheden af sweateren? :)
28.11.2022 - 22:15DROPS Design answered:
Hej Hannah, ja det kan du, men du skal sørge for at holde strikkefastheden på 16 masker på 10 cm som det står i opskriften, da vil du også få samme mål som i opskriften :)
30.11.2022 - 15:06
Autumn Pathways Sweater |
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Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with raglan, split in the sides and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 216-12 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 91 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 16) = 5.6. In this example decrease by knitting together alternately each 4th and 5th stitch and each 5th and 6th stitch. INCREASE TIP (for sleeves): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. RAGLAN: Decrease 2 stitches as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 3 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased), marker thread, tighten the strand slightly so there is not a large hole between the decreases, knit the next 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease 3 stitches as follows: Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 4 twisted together (= 3 stitches decreased), marker thread, tighten the strand slightly so there is not a large hole between the decreases, knit the next 4 stitches together (= 3 stitches decreased). Decrease 4 stitches as follows: Work until there are 5 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 5 twisted together (= 4 stitches decreased), marker thread, tighten the strand slightly so there is not a large hole between the decreases, knit the next 5 stitches together (= 4 stitches decreased). BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The front and back pieces are worked back and forth separately until the rib and split in the sides are finished. Both pieces are then placed on the same circular needle and continued in the round as far as the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle as far as the armhole. The sleeves are placed on the same circular needle as the body and the yoke is worked in the round. Finally the neck is worked in the round with short circular needle. BACK PIECE: Cast on 91-101-109-117-129-141 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib as follows: ROW 1 (right side): 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 twisted and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. ROW 2 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, purl 1 twisted and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 14 cm = 5 1/2". Lay the piece to one side and work the front piece. FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece until the rib measures 14 cm = 5 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. BODY: Now work front piece and back piece on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 as follows: Knit the first 90-100-108-116-128-140 stitches on the front piece and decrease at the same time 16-20-22-22-24-26 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP, knit the last stitch on the front piece together with the first stitch on the back piece (= 1 stitch decreased), insert a marker thread here (= side), knit the next 89-99-107-115-127-139 stitches on the back piece and decrease at the same time 16-20-22-22-24-26 stitches evenly spaced, knit the last stitch on the back piece and the first stitch on the front piece together, insert a marker thread here (= side and beginning of the round). There are 148-160-172-188-208-228 stitches on the needle. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 27-27-28-28-28-28 cm = 10 5/8"-10 5/8"-11"-11"-11"-11", bind off 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches for the armholes on each side (i.e. 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of both marker threads). There are 66-72-76-84-92-102 stitches on the front and back pieces. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves. SLEEVES: Cast on 46-48-50-52-52-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) in the round for 5 cm = 2". Knit 1 round where you decrease 8-8-8-8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE TIP = 38-40-42-44-44-46 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when increasing under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch. When the sleeve measures 8-8-7-8-8-8 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" from the cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3-3-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1”-3/4"-1/2”-1/2” a total of 10-10-12-13-15-15 times = 58-60-66-70-74-76 stitches. When the sleeve measures 39-38-37-35-34-32 cm = 15 1/4"-15"-14 1/2"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-12 1/2", bind off 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve (i.e. 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 50-52-56-60-62-64 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve in the same way. YOKE: Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where stitches were bind off for the armholes = 232-248-264-288-308-332 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the back piece (= 33-36-38-42-46-51 stitches on each side of the marker on the back piece). This is the beginning of the round. Insert a marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves; you will decrease at these marker threads for raglan. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the yoke measures 4-5-6-5-6-5 cm = 1 1/2"-2"-2 3/8"-2"-2 3/8"-2", start to decrease for RAGLAN – read description above. Decrease every 8th round in the different sizes as follows: Sizes S and XXL Decrease 3 stitches 1-1 time and 4 stitches 4-5 times (= 19-23 stitches decreased on each side of each marker thread) = 80-124 stitches on the needle. Sizes M and L: Decrease 4 stitches 5-5 times (= 20-20 stitches decreased on each side of each marker thread) = 88-104 stitches on the needle. Sizes XL and XXXL: Decrease 2 stitches 1-1 time and 4 stitches 5-6 times (= 22-26 stitches decreased on each side of each marker thread) = 112-124 stitches on the needle. All sizes: There are 80-88-104-112-124-124 stitches on the needle. Continue with stockinette stitch until the yoke measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm = 8 1/4"-9"-9 1/2"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4". Knit 1 round where you decrease 6-12-24-28-36-32 stitches evenly spaced = 74-76-80-84-88-92. DOUBLE NECK: Change to short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (= knit 1 twisted, purl 1) in the round for 9 cm = 3 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. Fold the rib at the top of the neck to the wrong side and sew down so you have a double neck. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. ASSEMBLY: Sew together the openings under the sleeves. |
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Eyssartier Marie-noelle wrote:
Bonjour J'aime beaucoup votre site il y a de beaux modèles N'ayant pas les moyens financiers d'investir dans des aiguilles circulaire Je trouve dommage que les explications ne soient pas aussi écrites pour faire les modèles des aiguilles droites Bonne journée
26.03.2024 - 12:48