DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Knitted sweater in DROPS Cotton Merino or DROPS Daisy. The piece is worked top down with raglan and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 216-18
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-128
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-122-134-142 cm = 37 3/4"-41"-44"-48"-52 3/4"-55 3/4"
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 20, light grey
100-100-150-150-150-200 g color 28, powder

Or use:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour 04, light grey
100-100-150-150-150-200 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting gauge is too tight in height, the garment will be too short and the armholes too small – you can correct this by regularly working an extra round in the one-colored sections.
If your work is loose, the garment will be too long and the armholes too big – you can regularly work one less round in the one-colored sections, to correct this.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits between these 6 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads, in each transition between body and sleeves, as follows: Start 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over with the correct color according to the diagram, knit 2 in the background color, make 1 yarn over with the correct color according to the diagram (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread and 8 stitches increased on each increase-round. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into the pattern.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 96-100-104-108-112-116 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and light grey. Knit 1 round. The next round is worked as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and knit 1. Continue this rib for 2 -2½ cm = 3/4"-1".
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 24-28-32-32-36-36 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 120-128-136-140-148-152 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted).

YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads for the raglan (without working the stitches) as follows:
Count 25-27-29-30-32-33 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 11 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 49-53-57-59-63-65 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 11 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch. There are 24-26-28-29-31-32 stitches left after the last thread.
In addition, insert 4 markers in the middle of the front and back pieces and the middle of each sleeve; these markers will be used when positioning the pattern.
Now work PATTERN in the round, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase to RAGLAN on each side of all 4 marker threads as described below. Read the rest of the yoke section before continuing! NOTE: The yoke is measured from the marker mid-front.

PATTERN:
Cut the strand. Start the round before the first marker thread (= back right shoulder).
Work 0-2-4-6-8-10 rounds of stockinette stitch with light grey.
Read KNITTING TIP and work A.1 on the sleeves, front and back pieces – count from the mid-stitch in A.1 where the pattern should start; i.e. the mid-stitch in A.1 should match the marker-stitch on the sleeves and front and back pieces. The pattern is now symmetric on each side of the sleeves and on each side of the front and back pieces, but not on each side of the 4 raglan-lines.
When A.1 has been completed in height, continue with stockinette stitch and light grey to finished length.

RAGLAN:
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after the neck, increase to RAGLAN – read description above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 24-26-28-33-35-37 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! After the last increase to raglan, there are 312-336-360-404-428-448 stitches on the needle.
Continue working, without further increases, until the yoke measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm = 8"-8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4" from the marker mid-front.
Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Start 1-1-2-2-1-0 stitches before the first marker thread, place the next 61-65-71-81-83-85 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 95-103-109-121-131-139 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), place the next 61-65-71-81-83-85 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work stockinette stitch over the remaining 95-103-109-121-131-139 stitches on the back piece. Remove all the threads and markers. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 202-218-234-258-282-302 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side of the body – in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work stockinette stitch to the first marker thread; the round now starts here. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and light grey.
When the piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8" from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2.
Increase like this every 7 cm = 2 3/4" a total of 4 times = 218-234-250-274-298-318 stitches. Continue if necessary, until the piece measures 33 cm = 13" from the division. There is approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you increase 54-58-62-70-74-78 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 272-292-312-344-372-396 stitches. NOTE: This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (= knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BINDING-OFF TIP! The sweater measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 61-65-71-81-83-85 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 67-71-79-89-93-97 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve. Start the round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round with light grey.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-1½-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-3/4"-1/2"-1/2"-1/2" a total of 11-12-15-19-20-21 times = 45-47-49-51-53-55 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 41-40-38-37-35-34 cm = 16 1/8"-15 3/4"-15"-14 1/2"-13 3/4"-13 3/8" from the division. There is approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length (the sweater in the picture has slightly longer sleeves which are turned up; if you would like a turn-up, continue 4 cm = 1 1/2" before starting the rib). NOTE: Shorter sleeve lengths in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you increase 7-9-7-9-7-9 stitches evenly spaced = 52-56-56-60-60-64 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (= knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BINDING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-39-38 cm = 17 3/4"-17 1/4"-16 1/2"-16 1/8"-15 1/4"-15" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = light grey / light grey
symbols = powder / off white
symbols = mid-stitch
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Inez wrote:

Witam. Ja przychodzę z pytaniem czy ten wzór na swetr lub jakikolwiek inny można zrobić w wydaniu męskim, damskim i dla dzieci? To byłby mój pierwszy swetr i chce wiedzieć czy swetry się da dostosowac. Z góry dziekuje

01.10.2023 - 11:16

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Inez, często nasze wzory są w podobnych wydaniach w wersji damskiej, męskiej lub dziecięcej. W wyszukiwarce możesz wybrać swetry dla mężczyzn, z żakardem, z tej samej grupy włóczek i zobaczysz co mamy w ofercie. Generalnie sweter męski różni się od damskiego tym, że ma szersze ramiona, dłuższy tułów i rękawy. W razie pytań pisz. Pozdrawiamy!

02.10.2023 - 09:20

country flag Matilde wrote:

Buongiorno, mi sto cimentando in questo modello per me un po' complesso. Non ho capito bene se nel raglan gli aumenti vanno fatti a tutti i giri: dal testo mi sembrerebbe di sì, ma non sono certa. Grazie della disponibilità e complimenti per questo bellissimo sito!

05.05.2023 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Matilde, gli aumenti per il raglan sono ogni 2 giri. Buon lavoro!

06.05.2023 - 22:32

country flag Ragnhild wrote:

Hvordan øker jeg og hekler mønster samtidig uten at mønsteret forskyver seg? Må jeg telle ut ifra midten både på bryst og erme for å få det riktig? Og «improvisere» i raglan kantene for å få det riktig? Eller kan jeg bare telle ut ifra erme også blir det riktig på brystet om jeg legger økningen med i mønsteret?

12.04.2022 - 20:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ragnhild, du udgår fra mønsteret. Tager ud til raglan på samme sted hver gang og strikker de nye masker løbende ind i det mønster du allerede strikker :)

22.04.2022 - 12:01

country flag Margaret Holmwood wrote:

How do I work the pattern when increasing stitches for the raglan? I have never worked a jumper from the neck down before!

25.01.2022 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Holmwood, the new stitches increased should be worked into A.1 so that there will be always more stitches worked with the colour pattern. Happy knitting!

26.01.2022 - 08:38

country flag Amélie Aupeix wrote:

Je précise ma question : je vais débuter le jacquard et on me dit de calculer où je dois commencer pour avoir partout la maille centrale au milieu de chaque partie mais ça ne tombe pas bon... merci de votre aide

26.10.2021 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Amelie, vous placez les marqueurs pour les raglans entre les mailles selon les explications du modele. 4 autres marqueurs - au milieu des manches, dos et devant sont places dans une maille (pas entre les mailles). P ex. dans la taille S - dans 6-eme maille des manches et dans 25-eme mailles du dos et devant (en comptant du marqueur). Le marqueur du debut du tour (place au debut de l'ouvrage) sera deplace: il n'est plus entre 2 mailles, mais dans la premiere maille du tour. Bon tricot!

26.10.2021 - 16:42

country flag Mandy Pittman wrote:

Very pretty. Looking forward to getting the yarn

23.05.2021 - 11:06

country flag Laila Jensen wrote:

Passer garn mængden? Jeg strikker XXXL og er 2/3 i mønstret. Jeg har ikke brugt det første nøgle i mønsterfarven færdigt endnu og der er anført at der skal bruges 4! Så stor forskel kan ikke skyldes strikkefasthed? Jeg har desværre før oplevet med flere af jeres opskrifter, at jeg sidder tilbage med adskillige nøgler "rester".

11.02.2021 - 10:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Laila, jo men hvis du strikker den største størrelse og hvis du strikker i DROPS Cotton Merino, så kommer du til at bruge mere end 1 nøgle... husk at mønsterfarven følger med hele vejen rundt i hele mønsterpartiet på hele bærestykket. God fornøjelse!

16.02.2021 - 14:07

country flag Myriam Gosset wrote:

Magnifique

06.10.2020 - 14:26

country flag Ingela Andersson wrote:

Mönstret syns inte i text.

25.09.2020 - 22:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingela. Tack för info, nu finns mönstret även på svenska. Mvh DROPS Design

29.09.2020 - 07:10

country flag Olena Kostrytsia wrote:

Have a desire to knit it! lovely color!

04.06.2020 - 15:39