DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.90€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Moon Circles

Knitted jumper in DROPS Flora and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with English rib and round yoke. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 215-33
DROPS design: Pattern fl-056
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 03, light grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-175-175-200-225 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 36 rows vertically with English rib and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for English rib and A.1.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.60 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.90€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 38) = 2. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every other stitch (work yarn overs somewhat tight to avoid big holes). On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ENGLISH RIB (worked in the round):
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, work from *-* the rest of round.
ROUND 2: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl together yarn over and slipped stitch *, repeat from *-* the rest of round.
ROUND 3: * Knit together yarn over and slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, repeat from *-* the rest of round.
Repeat rounds 2 to 3.

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves in L, XL, XXL and XXXL):
Adjust distance on decreases to decrease in a section with English rib - work all decreases on a round with English rib where yarn over and knit stitch are knitted together.
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE RIGHT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. begin 3 stitches + 2 yarn overs before purl stitch with marker): Slip first knit stitch and yarn over loosely on to right needle knitwise, purl 1, pass slipped stitch and yarn over over purl stitch, slip stitch back on left needle, pass slipped stitch and yarn over over stitch place back on left needle, slip the remaining stitch over on to right needle (= 2 stitches decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE LEFT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. begin right after purl stitch with marker): Slip first knit stitch and yarn over on to right needle knitwise, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e. 1 purl + knit stitch and yarn over), then slip the loose stitch and yarn over over stitches worked together (= 2 stitches decreased).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle from right shoulder at the back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.
NOTE: All number of stitches given when working English rib is counted without yarn overs because yarn overs are counted together with the knit stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 76-80-84-86-90-94 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Flora and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm.
When rib is done, knit 1 round while increasing 38-40-42-44-46-48 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 114-120-126-130-136-142 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round. Work yoke as explained below. Measure yoke from this marker.

YOKE:
Read all of the following section on yoke before working!
Work ENGLISH RIB - read explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 7-8-9-10-10-10 cm from marker after neck edge, work A.1 in the round (A.1 = approx. 2 cm vertically).
AT THE SAME TIME on first round in A.1 increase 30-38-40-46-50-54 stitches evenly = 144-158-166-176-186-196 stitches, and on last round in A.1 increase 30-36-40-46-50-54 stitches evenly = 174-194-206-222-236-250 stitches.
When A.1 has been worked, work English rib (begin with 1st round, then repeat 2nd and 3rd round as before).
When piece measures 16-18-20-22-22-22 cm from marker, work A.1 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 26-26-26-34-36-42 stitches evenly = 200-220-232-256-272-292 stitches. When A.1 has been worked, work English rib in the round again.
When piece measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm from marker, divide yoke for body and sleeves as explained below. NOTE! If knitting tension is not kept in height, division can take place before A.1 is worked in height in S, M, L and XL. In that case, finish A.1 when working body and sleeves.
Divide yoke as follows: Slip the first 41-45-47-53-55-57 stitches on 1 stitch holder, cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) work A.1 or English rib over the next 59-65-69-75-81-89 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 41-45-47-53-55-57 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work A.1 or English rib as before over the next 59-65-69-75-81-89 stitches (= back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 128-140-152-164-180-196 stitches. Begin round in the middle of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches that were cast on under one sleeve, and work as explained below.

S, M, L and XL:
Finish A.1 if A.1 was not finished on yoke. Then work English rib as before for 8-8-9-9 cm. Work A.1. Then work English rib as before for 8-8-9-9 cm. Work A.1. Then work English rib as before for approx. 9-9-9-9 cm.
Piece now measures approx. 29-29-31-31 cm from division and approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements. Try the jumper and work to desired length. Continue to ALL SIZES!

XXL and XXXL:
Continue with English rib until this section measures 10-10 cm in total including what was worked on yoke before division.
Work A.1. Then work English rib as before for 10-10 cm. Work A.1. Then work English rib as before for approx. 9-11 cm.
Piece now measures approx. 31-31 cm from division and approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements. Try the jumper and work to desired length. Continue to ALL SIZES!

ALL SIZES:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) but adjust so that rib fits nicely over pattern in English rib - on first round rib knit yarn overs from English rib stitches together with knit stitches in rib.
Continue rib with knit over knit and purl over purl in the round for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 54-56-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 41-45-47-53-55-57 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 46-50-54-60-64-66 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve (applies to XL, XXL and XXXL). Begin round after stitch with marker (i.e. stitch with marker is now last stitch on round), and work as follows:

S, M, L and XL:
Finish A.1 if A.1 was not finished on yoke. Then work English rib for 10-10-11-11 cm. AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches towards the right mid under sleeve in size XL (decrease no stitches in S, M and L) - read DECREASE TIP = 46-50-54-58 stitches. When sleeve measures 6 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches towards the left in size XL = 46-50-54-56 stitches.
When section with English rib is done, work A.1 in the round. Then work English rib until sleeve measures 43-42-40-38 cm from division. Approx. 6 cm remains until finished measurements. Try the jumper and work to desired length. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke. Continue to ALL SIZES!

XXL and XXXL:
Continue with English rib in the round as before until this section with English rib measures 12-12 cm in total including what was worked on yoke before division. AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches towards the right mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP = 62-64 stitches. When sleeve measures 5 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches towards the left = 60-62 stitches. Repeat the decrease one more time towards the right and one more time towards the left (2 cm between each decrease) = 56-58 stitches remain.
When section with English rib is done, work A.1 in the round. Then work English rib until sleeve measures 36-35 cm from division. Approx. 6 cm remains until finished measurements. Try the jumper and work to desired length. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the largest size because of wider neck and longer yoke. Continue to ALL SIZES!

ALL SIZES:
Knit 1 round while decreasing 6-8-10-10-8-8 stitches evenly - NOTE: Knit yarn overs from English rib stitches together with knit stitches but this does not count as decrease = 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches on needles.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP! Sleeve measures approx. 49-48-46-44-42-41 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Anna-Fulvia wrote:

Bonjour, Ce modèle est trop compliqué pour moi ; j'ai 300 g de Flora et 150 g de Kid silk. Comment chercher un modèle alternatif plus simple pour ces quantités ? = Modèle en fil C pour 450 g ? comment gérer les mailles en largeur (14 pour le moon cercles = ? en fil alternatif). Merci de votre retour et éventuelles suggestions.

25.02.2023 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anna-Fulvia, vous pouvez tout à fait consulter les modèles du groupe C ou bien ceux du groupe A mais avec une tension de 16-17 m (tension habituelle pour 2 fils du groupe A). Vérifiez les quantités grâce à notre convertisseur. Bon tricot!

27.02.2023 - 10:16

country flag Mattea wrote:

Beste, wat bedoelen jullie hiermee? 1 draad Kid-Silk (= 2 draden) Moet ik met 2 bolletjes kid-silk tegelijkertijd breien + 1 bol flora? Als ik dit patroon volledig wil breien in kid-silk heb ik dan 12 bolletjes nodig? bedankt!

22.04.2021 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mattea,

Het is de bedoeling dat je het hele patroon met 1 draad Kid Silk en 1 draad Flora breit. Je breit dus steeds met 2 draden tegelijkertijd; eentje van elke kwaliteit. Als je geen Flora wilt gebruiken en alleen Kid Silk, dan heb je inderdaad de dubbele hoeveelheid daarvan nodig.

29.04.2021 - 14:24

country flag Bassam Galal wrote:

It is fine

23.02.2021 - 20:01

country flag Bassam Galal wrote:

Hej is thire eny pattern help to those how kint on a machine . I have an old knitmaster 323 with rib and I think at that there are many others would be happy to find that kind of help . Best regards

23.02.2021 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Galal, sorry we do not have any informations about knitting machine and there are so different sort and settings depending on the maching - maybe your yarn store can help you - even per mail or telephone - or you might find help from a specialized forum in machine knitting. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

24.02.2021 - 07:25

country flag Elena wrote:

Buomgiorno, non riesco a trovare le misure del maglione, siccome lavoro con un filato diverso devo aggiungere più maglie, nello specifico 4 maglie ogni 10 cm. Potreste aiutarmi? Grazie

21.02.2021 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, in fondo alla pagina trova uno schema con le misure del capo finito. Buon lavoro!

21.02.2021 - 18:25

country flag Pat wrote:

Sorry, I am still confused. Before I start the first A1 I have 114 stitches and 54 yarn over. In total I have 168 stitches. It says after 7cm increase stitches to 144, but I already have 168 including yo. What do I do with the yarn overs when I am doing my first knit row in A1

17.02.2021 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pat, the yarn overs made for the English rib are not counting as stitches, since they belong to the slipped stitch, ie when you work English rib over 114 stitches, you have 114 stitches (57 stitches worked and 57 stitches slipped as if to P with a yarn over). When you increase 30 stitches evenly on first round in A.1 you will knit 114 stitches and make 30 yarn overs evenly, on 2nd round in A.1 you will purl all yarn overs twisted (= as in 2nd round in A.1) = 144 sts. Then you increase 30 sts on last row in A.1 = 174 sts. You then work English rib over the 174 sts (= 87 sts + 87 sts slipped with their yarn over). - this is for size S. Can this help?

17.02.2021 - 14:05

country flag Pat wrote:

Work A.1 in the round (A.1 = approx. 2 cm vertically). AT THE SAME TIME on first round in A.1 increase 30-38-40-46-50-54 stitches evenly = 144 What do you do with yarn overs when increasing

16.02.2021 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Pat, The first row in A.1 is a knitted row (so the whole round is knitted and the yarn overs are evenly spaced on this round. The next round is also knitted and the yarn overs are knitted twisted, (i.e. you work in the back loop of the stitch instead of the front loop) to avoid holes. Happy knitting!

17.02.2021 - 07:45

country flag Patricia Kurl wrote:

I am knitting moon circles pattern. When you first row of English rib it adds more stitched ROUND 1: * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, work from *-* the rest of round.

09.02.2021 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kurl, when you work English rib in the round, do not count the yarn overs made over the slipped stitches as separate stitches, ie the yarn over + slipped stitch count as 1 stitch. See video if it helps. Happy knitting!

09.02.2021 - 14:49

country flag Kadri wrote:

When I use yarn group C, how much do I need? As much as group A? (For example, when I use Big Merino.)

24.11.2020 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kadri, to calculate how much you need, please read the next question: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=9855&cid=19#question3 Happy knitting!

24.11.2020 - 22:44

country flag Olga wrote:

Such a cosy thing!

23.07.2020 - 20:23