DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.90€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Raspberry Rose Sweater

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with lace pattern, small cables and round neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 218-18
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-899
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 9024, dark blush

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
26 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with A.2 and A.3 = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.90€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all the rows from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 242 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 24) = 10.1. 
In this example, decrease by knitting together each 9th and 10th stitch (approx.).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body and sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits between these 6 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up, as far as the armholes. The front and back pieces are then finished separately, back and forth on the needle. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up. The neck is worked to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 242-264-286-312-344-378 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 5 rounds.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 24-26-28-30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 218-238-258-282-310-342 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 109-119-129-141-155-171 stitches (= sides of body). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
The next round is worked as follows: * Work 6-11-12-18-21-25 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 12 stitches), A.2 (= 9 stitches), A.3 over the next 64-64-72-72-80-88 stitches (= 8-8-9-9-10-11 repeats of 8 stitches), work A.1 (= 12 stitches), work 6-11-12-18-21-25 stitches in stocking stitch *(marker thread here). Work from *-* 1 more time. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 9 cm in all sizes, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 9-9-9-9-10-10 cm a total of 3 times = 230-250-270-294-326-354 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm.
On the next round cast off for the armholes as follows: Cast off 3 stitches, work as before until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread on the other side of the piece, cast off 6 stitches, work as before until there are 3 stitches left before the first marker thread and cast off these stitches.
Cut the strand. The back and front pieces are finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 109-119-129-141-155-171 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1-2-3-5-6-7 times and 1 stitch 1-3-2-3-4-5 times = 103-105-113-115-123-133 stitches left.
Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. On the next row cast off the middle 37-37-41-41-43-43 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue as before and cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 31-32-34-35-38-43 stitches on the shoulder.
Work until there are 2 rows left before the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 1 stitch over the cable in A.1 = 30-31-33-34-37-42 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
= 109-119-129-141-155-171 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1-2-3-5-6-7 times and 1 stitch 1-3-2-3-4-5 times = 103-105-113-115-123-133 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 43-44-46-47-49-50 cm. On the next row place the middle 17-17-21-21-23-23 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue the pattern and cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 4 times and 1 stitch 4 times = 31-32-34-35-38-43 stitches on the shoulder.
Work until there are 2 rows left before the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 1 stitch over the cable in A.1 = 30-31-33-34-37-42 stitches left. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 54-56-58-62-64-66 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 5 rounds.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 6 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – remember DECREASE TIP = 48-50-52-56-58-60 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid-under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when increasing under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 6-9-6-11-9-5 cm, increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 16-18-20-21-23-25 times = 80-86-92-98-104-110 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 47-47-46-45-44-43 cm. There is approx. 7-8-8-10-11-11 cm left to finished length; you can try the jumper on and work to desired length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap.
The next round is worked as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, cast off 6 stitches and work stocking stitch to the end of the round. The rest of the sleeve is worked back and forth and in stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME as you cast off stitches for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on both sides as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 3-5-5-5-5-5 times and 1 stitch 3-2-2-4-6-6 times. Then cast off 2 stitches on both sides until the piece measures approx. 53-54-53-54-54-53 cm (or 1 cm before finished length). Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 54-55-54-55-55-54 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Start on the right side by the one shoulder seam, using short circular needle size 2.5 mm, and knit up approx. 118 to 140 stitches, including the stitches from the thread in front (the number of stitches must be divisible by 2).
Work 6 rounds of rib (= knit 1, purl 1). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round/row work the yarn over as shown in the diagram (to leave a hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = in the stitch below the next stitch work as follows: knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased)
symbols = 3 stitches in stocking stitch
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Mymy wrote:

Bonjour, pouvez vous me dire, si le dos et lui aussi au points fantaisies ? D'avance merci

19.06.2023 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mymy, les points fantaisies se trouvent sur les dos et sur le devant. Bon tricot!

19.06.2023 - 16:10

country flag Christine wrote:

Hello, I am working on 218-19 Raspberry Rose sweater.i am starting the front piece . I am struggling with the description of the armhole reducing. The second size front. I have 119 stitches. If I cast off 2 stitches twice and 1 stitch 3 times at the beginning of each row I will have 112 stitches not 105. Regards Christine

10.02.2023 - 17:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, you cast off stitches at the beginning of each row twice. That is, twice from the right side and twice from the wrong side. So, you would cast off 8 stitches, and not 4. The same when casting off 1 stitch; you cast off 6 more stitches and not 3. So, in total, you will have cast off 14 stitches. 119 sts-14 cast-off sts = 105 sts. Happy knitting!

12.02.2023 - 23:55

country flag Christine Corkindale wrote:

Hello, I am knitting Raspberry Rose sweater. I am reading the pattern through first. I understand until the piece is 34cm long. The next part says C/O3 then work as before. I do not understand what work as before is. Before what? It says this twice through the text. Please would you clarify this for me. Regards Christine

19.12.2022 - 23:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Christine, It means you continue the pattern at the same time as you cast off for the armholes, then continue the pattern at the same time as you work the front and back pieces separately, back and forth. Happy knitting!

20.12.2022 - 06:46

country flag Samira wrote:

Bonjour Je tricote le modèle 218-18 je tricote le dos et ai fini de rabattre les 37 mailles. J e ne comprend pas l explication ou il faut diminuer 1 maille dans la torsade A.1, comment fait-on? J attends votre réponse avec impatience et vous remercie d'avance, c est un très beau modèle et j ai hâte de le terminer. Cordialement C

21.04.2022 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Samira, il faut plus de mailles pour la même largeur lorsque l'on tricote des torsades, pour bien conserver la bonne largeur avant de rabattre, on doit ainsi diminuer 1 maille dans A.1 (tricotez par ex les 2 mailles centrales ensemble à l'endroit) et continuez comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

22.04.2022 - 07:44

country flag Elvira Gustke wrote:

Ich wollte nur wissen ob das Rückenteil genau gestrickt, wie das Vorteil.

09.03.2022 - 23:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Gustke, ja Vorder- und Rückenteil sind beide mit dem gleichen Muster. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.03.2022 - 09:51

country flag Susanne Ommanney wrote:

I Diagram A2 og A3 række 1 er der et symbol, ligner et nul og strikkes i forbindelse med 2 masker sammen. Strikker man i de to masker man har strikket sammen ????

14.11.2021 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne. Jag ser att det dessvärre var fel förklaring på dansk till den symbolen. Riktig förklaring är: lav 1 omslag mellem 2 masker, på næste omgang/pind strikkes omslaget ifølge diagrammet (det skal blive hul). Detta är nu rättat i opskriften. Mvh DROPS Design

16.11.2021 - 09:05

country flag Wendy Knights wrote:

I have started to knit pattern Drops/218/18 and found it completely wrong. A2 left out after 64 st pattern and only 118 sets. Instead of 119 at end of first half.

15.03.2021 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Knights, you should work diagram A.2 (= 9 sts) only one time then repeat the 8 sts in A.3 a total of 8 times = over 64 sts, so that you have: 11 sts in stocking st, 12 sts in A.1, 9 sts in A.2, 64 sts in A.3, 12 sts in A.1 and 11 sts in stocking st = 11+12+9+64+12+11= 119 sts. Happy knitting!

15.03.2021 - 13:21

country flag Maria wrote:

Bitte zeigen Sie wieder das Bolero Jäckchen gerippt gestr.in senfgelb danke

20.02.2021 - 14:28

country flag Nzina wrote:

Bonne Année à toute l'équipe. Pour l'encolure devant on dit de continuer en diminuant à chaque début de rang 4fois 2 m. et 4fois 1 m. Est-ce aussi bien sur l'endroit que sur l'envers ? Merci.

03.01.2021 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nzina et bonne année également! Lorsque vous avez rabattu les mailles centrales pour l'encolure, vous terminez chaque épaule séparément et vous rabattez les mailles pour l'encolure au début de chaque rang à partir de l'encolure, autrement dit, en début de rang sur l'endroit pour l'épaule droite et en début de rang sur l'envers pour l'épaule gauche. Bon tricot!

05.01.2021 - 09:46

country flag NZINA wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas le premier rang de A.1. Est-ce une torsade ou bien 4 mailles rabattues ensemble ? Merci.

14.12.2020 - 12:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nzina, au 1er rang de A.1 vous retrouvez les 2 derniers symboles de la légende: d'abord placer 1 maille sur l'aiguille auxiliaire devant l'ouvrage, tricoter 1 maille endroit, reprendre la maille en attente et la tricoter à l'endroit puis placer 1 maille sur l'aiguille auxiliaire derrière l'ouvrage, tricoter 1 maille endroit, reprendre la maille en attente et la tricoter à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

14.12.2020 - 13:31