DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.10 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Amur Maple

Knitted jumper in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, stocking stitch and increases. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 217-12
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-138
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-150-150-175-175-200 g colour 24, rust

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.10 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP (for sleeve): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by knitting up 1 stitch in the loop between 2 stitches from the previous round.

KNOT:
Purl together 3 stitches (stitch with marker thread, the new stitch from the previous round and the next stitch), do not slip these stitches from the needle. Knit these same 3 stitches together and then purl them together 1 more time. Now slip them from the left needle.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. Marker threads are inserted in the piece and increases worked here. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Brushed Alpaca Silk.
Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round, mid back; the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Insert 19-20-21-22-23-24 marker threads in the piece, insert the marker threads in the stitches, with 3 stitches between each marker thread. Continue working stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm increase 1 stitch after each stitch with a marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. On the next round work a knot at each marker thread; the knots are worked in the stitch with a thread, the increased stitch from the previous round and the next stitch – read KNOT. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue with stocking stitch and repeat the increase and the knots every 2-2½-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm a total of 8-8-8-9-10-10 times; each time you increase there will be 1 more stitch between each knot. After all the increases there are 228-240-252-286-322-336 stitches on the needle. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 18-20-21-23-25-27 cm from the marker; on the last round increase 4-16-20-18-2-8 stitches evenly spaced = 232-256-272-304-324-344 stitches.

The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 34-38-40-44-49-53 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), knit 68-76-80-88-98-106 stitches (= front piece), place the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), knit the remaining 34-38-40-44-49-53 stitches (= half the back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 148-164-176-192-216-236 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch.
When the piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm from the division, change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib (= knit 2, purl 2). Cast off with knit when the rib measures 6 cm – read CASTING-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Place the 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-64-72-74-78 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start the round at the marker thread and knit in the round.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-5-4-3-2½-2 cm a total of 6-7-9-12-12-13 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 40-38-38-37-36-34 cm from the division (there is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; you can try the jumper on and work to desired length). Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and increase 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-42-41-40-38 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 217-12

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Zeline wrote:

Bonjour Je n'arrive pas é déterminer si ce modèle se tricote avec un seul fil de brushed alpaca silk ou avec 2 fils ? Pouvez vous m'éclairer ? Merci

19.02.2024 - 09:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Zeline, ce pull se tricote avec 1 seul fil Brushed Alpaca Silk. Bon tricot!

19.02.2024 - 09:58

country flag Galerand wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse, c'est ce que j'ai fait et tout va bien

22.01.2024 - 12:40

country flag Galerand wrote:

J'ai fini les augmentations et j'ai bien mes 252 mailles pour la taille L, ensuite faire 21 cm à partir du fil marqueur, de quel fil marqueur parlez vous, est-ce à partir du col, merci de votre réponse

20.01.2024 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Galerand, à la fin du col, on a placé un marqueur au milieu dos, au début du tour, ce marqueur est celui qui sert de repère pour mesurer l'empiècement. Mesurez à partir d'ici (sans le col), et divisez l'ouvrage quand vous avez atteint 21 cm à partir de ce marqueur. Bon tricot!

22.01.2024 - 08:20

country flag Camilla wrote:

Förstår inte hur jag ska hantera markörerna, de ska sitta i en maska skriver ni, inte emellan. Hur får jag dem då att följa med i arbetet och hamna på rätt ställe?

03.01.2024 - 17:34

country flag Leena Saikko wrote:

Hi, I'd like to knit design Amur maple. Can I use Drops Nord Mix yarn instead of Drops brushed alpaca silk ? With best regards Leena Saikko

30.10.2023 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Saikko, you can use 2 strands DROPS Nord instead of 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk, just note that the texture might be different due to the different content of each yarn. Read more here on how to calculate new amount of yarn. Happy knitting!

31.10.2023 - 15:49

country flag Ewa wrote:

Hi, are the st counts correct? Given 76 st, to have 3 st between each marker, you need do place 26 markers, don’t you? But it says 19 markers. Then adding a st 8 times after each marker makes it adding >200 st, so after all you end ul with >280 st. But it says 228. Am I missing somethog?

30.09.2023 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Ewo, markery są wkładane w oczka. Zatem masz 19 oczek z markerem i 19 części po 3 oczka każda: 19 (z markerami) + (19x3)= 19+57= 76 oczek. Pozdrawiamy!

02.10.2023 - 11:21

country flag Hanne A wrote:

Kan det passe at der strikkes med 1 tråd. Jeg synes resultatet bliver grimt og alt for løst og åbent. Sådan ser det ikke ud på billedet.

21.03.2023 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Det strikkes med 1 tråd. Får du den oppgitte strikkefastheten? Husk pinne nr er kun veiledende. Får du for mange masker på 10 cm, bytt til tykkere pinner. Får du for få masker på 10 cm, bytt til tynnere pinner. mvh DROPS Design

27.03.2023 - 09:47

country flag Coni S M wrote:

Hola Buenas noches! Este suéter esta tejido usando el doble? Porque Estoy haciendo la prueba usando una hebra de Brushed Alpaca Silk con agujas 5mm y la tela me parece demasiado delgada. En la foto se ve mas gruesa. Gracias por su pronta respuesta.

08.01.2023 - 02:43

country flag Adri Harteveld wrote:

Ik zit met die KNOOP. Als ik 3 steken averecht samen brei heb ik toch 2 steken geminderd? Daarna kan ik niet dezelfde 3 nog eens recht samenbreien. ik kom hier niet uit, HELP!

29.01.2022 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Adri,

Doordat je de steken nog niet van de naald af laat glijden kun je se weer recht samen breien. Je steekt daarvoor de rechter naald als eerste door de meest linkse steek van de drie. Zie ook deze video:

30.01.2022 - 12:14

country flag Lorna wrote:

Hello , After the first knot is made, where should the marking thread be ,or how many stitches should there be between each marking thread? Thank you.

16.12.2021 - 04:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lorna, marker thread should follow the same stitch = the first of the 3 stitches from the knot. There will be 1 extra stitch between each knot in width (before 1st knot, there are 3 sts between each stitch with a marker thread, after 1st knot, there are 4 sts between each stitch with a marker thread). Happy knitting!

16.12.2021 - 07:51