DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 69.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Breaking Free

Crocheted sweater in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan and loop cables. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 217-6
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-107
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-100-108-116-130-138 cm = 37 3/4”-39 3/8”-42 1/2”-45 3/4”-51 1/4”-54 1/4”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 02, pearl grey
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g color 01, off white

CROCHET GAUGE:
14.5 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM = US H/8.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 69.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row/round of double crochets work 3 chain stitches; these chain stitches replace the first double crochet, i.e. skip the first double crochet from the previous row/round. The round ends with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 66 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 8.2.
In this example, increase by working 2 double crochets in approx. each 8th double crochet.

RAGLAN:
Increase 2 double crochets by working 3 double crochets in the first and the last double crochet in A.3. The increased stitches are worked in double crochets on the sleeves and in pattern on the front and back pieces as follows: Work the new stitches into A.2. There will always be 7-7-7-8-8-8 double crochets between the vertical lines of chain-stitch loops (chain-stitch loops are worked into loop cables later). When there are 8-8-8-10-10-10 vertical lines with chain-stitch loops, work the remaining increased stitches in double crochets.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 double crochet on each side of the marker thread as follows:
NOTE! Be aware that the marker thread is placed in transition between rounds, so that the decrease after the marker thread will occur on next round.
Work until there are 4 double crochets left before the marker thread, * make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased), work 4 double crochets as before (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches). Decrease 1 stitch in the same way after the marker thread.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round, from the side of the back piece and top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves, which are then finished separately.

NECK:
Work 66-66-70-72-76-80 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 5 mm = US H/8 and 1 strand Sky + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch – read CROCHET INFORMATION. Then work A.1 in the round. When A.1 has been completed in height, work a round of double crochets where you increase 8-8-8-12-12-8 double crochets evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 74-74-78-84-88-88 double crochets. Insert a marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Now work pattern as follows:
Work A.2 over the first 21-21-21-24-24-24 stitches (= 3 repeats) – remember CROCHET INFORMATION, work the first 4-4-4-4-4-4 symbols in A.2, i.e. 1 double crochet + 10 chain stitches + 2 double crochets (= back piece), work A.3 over the next 2 double crochets (= raglan), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 double crochets (= sleeve), work A.3 over the next 2 double crochets (= raglan), work 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, A.2 over the next 21-21-21-24-24-24 stitches (= 3 repeats), work the first 4-4-4-4-4-4 symbols in A.2, i.e. 1 double crochet + 10 chain stitches + 2 double crochets (= front piece), work A.3 over the next 2 double crochets (= raglan), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 double crochets (= sleeve), A.3 over the next 2 double crochets (= raglan) and 1 double crochet in the last double crochet on the round.
Continue this pattern in the round; at the same time, on the next round, begin to increase to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every round 1-2-3-3-4-4 times, every 2nd round 3-3-3-3-4-5 times and then every 3rd round 3-3-3-3-3-3 times = 186-202-222-228-264-280 stitches. Continue working until the yoke measures 20-20-22-23-26-28 cm = 8”-8”-8 3/4”-9”-10 1/4”-11” from the marker on the neck.

Now work the chain-stitch loops in A.3 together to make loop cables as follows:
Insert the hook down the first chain-stitch loop at the top of the neck, from the right side, pull the 2nd chain-stitch loop through the first chain-stitch loop, insert the hook down the 2nd chain-stitch loop and pull the 3rd chain-stitch loop through the 2nd chain-stitch loop. Continue like this until all the chain-stitch loops have been worked together. Repeat on all A.3 sections on the round. You can thread a strand through the last chain-stitch loop if necessary, to prevent the cable from ravelling. The chain-stitch loops on the front and back pieces are worked together in the same way later.
On the next round, work as follows; the chain-stitch loops in A.2 and A.3 are not counted in the stitch numbers - work 1 single crochet in the last chain-stitch loop in A.3 to prevent the cable from ravelling (then skip this single crochet; it is not counted in the stitch count):
Work pattern as before over the first 39-41-43-46-50-53 stitches, work 6-6-8-8-10-10 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip the next 38-42-48-48-58-60 double crochets (= sleeve), work pattern as before over the next 55-59-63-66-74-80 stitches (= front piece), work 6-6-8-8-10-10 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip the next 38-42-48-48-58-60 double crochets (= sleeve), work pattern as before over the remaining 16-18-20-20-24-27 double crochets. Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 124-132-144-150-170-182 double crochets (+ chain-stitch loops). Insert a marker in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under one of the sleeves. Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch after the marker and work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) – remember CROCHET INFORMATION. Work pattern in the round as before, i.e. work double crochets and chain-stitch loops as before over the chain-stitch loops on the front and back pieces. Work like this until the body measures 24-26-26-27-26-26 cm = 9 1/2”-10 1/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-10 1/4”-10 1/4” from the division.
Now work the chain-stitch loops together in the same way as on the yoke. When all the loops have been cabled together, work the next round as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet, but at the end of each chain-stitch cable work 1 single crochet to prevent the cables from ravelling.
Now work an edge as follows: Work A.1 the whole round. Repeat the last row in the diagram until the edge measures 5 cm = 2”. Cut and fasten the strand. The sweater measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder down.


SLEEVE:
Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 chain stitches under the sleeve (= beginning of the round). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards. Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the stitch after the marker thread and work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) – remember CROCHET INFORMATION, then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-2-3-3-4-4 chain stitches, 2 double crochets around the next double crochet (= in the corner between the chain stitches and the skipped double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of these 38-42-48-48-58-60 double crochets, 2 double crochets around the next double crochet (= in the corner between the chain stitches and the skipped double crochets), work 1 double crochet in each of the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 chain stitches = 48-52-60-60-72-74 double crochets. Continue in the round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet. When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the division, start to decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every round 0-0-1-3-10-10 times and then every 2nd round 4-5-7-5-3-3 times = 40-42-44-44-46-48 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 33-34-32-32-29-27 cm = 13”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-12 1/2”-11 3/8”-10 5/8” from the division. Now work an edge as follows: Work A.1 the whole round. When the diagram has been completed in height, repeat the last row in the diagram until the edge measures 5 cm = 2”. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.01.2021
Correction: RAGLAN: ... Work the new stitches into A.2...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = start on this round, the previous round has already been worked
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch (stitches below line should not be worked, symbols below line indicates stitches from previous round)
symbols = work 10 chain stitches – remember CHAIN STITCH, 1 slip stitch in the first of these 10 chain stitches to make a chain-stitch loop; tighten the strand slightly before continuing.
symbols = work a relief-treble crochet as follows: Work 1 treble crochet around 1 double crochet/relief-treble crochet from the previous round (do not work in the loops but around the 1 double crochet/relief-treble crochet itself).
symbols = double crochet / single crochet (stitches should not be worked, symbols below line indicates stitches from previous round)
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Bjørt wrote:

I'm making this in size M, and I'm having some trouble understanding the decreasing of the sleeves. It says to decrease on both sides of the marker thread, starting before the thread, then on the other side. This would mean the next decrease would be in the next row. I need to decrease every 2nd row, does that mean decreasing on one side on 2 rows then one without, or alternating sides every row? Thanks in advance!

07.01.2021 - 23:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bjørt, decrease tip will be edited, you will decrease 1 stitch at the end of the round, then join and decrease 1 stitch at the beg of next round. (= 1 stitch on each side of the marker on mid under sleeve). Happy crocheting!

12.01.2021 - 11:19

country flag Corinka De Jager wrote:

Goedemorgen Dropsteam, ondanks dat ik maat L aan het haken ben, kom ik na 9 rijen meerderen maar op 8 verticale lijnen. Heb het een keer overnieuw gedaan en ook nog eens uitgerekend, maar ik begrijp niet hoe ik aan 10 lijnen moet komen. Kunnen jullie mij helpen. Alvast bedankt

02.01.2021 - 12:02

country flag Marie Z wrote:

Hallo, ich häkele den Pullover in Größe XL. Leider verstehe ich die Raglanzunahmen nicht ganz. \"Die zugenommenen Maschen an den Ärmeln als Stäbchen weiterhäkeln und an Vorderteil und Rückenteil in Muster A. 3 einarbeiten. \" Was ist damit gemeint, in Muster A. 3 einarbeiten? Vielen Dank und schöne Grüße. Marie

31.12.2020 - 01:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marie Z, die Zunahmen beim Vorder- und Rückenteil sollen wie im A.2 gehäkelt werden (nicht A.3), eine Korrektur erfolgt, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

05.01.2021 - 15:04

country flag Agatha Rusticus wrote:

Kan ik dit ,ik ben maar een leek.

11.12.2020 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Agatha,

Het is lastig te beoordelen hoe makkelijk je kan haken en hoe snel je de technieken onder de knie krijgt. Al onze patronen zijn voorzien van duidelijke instructies en video's, waardoor het voor iedereen mogelijk moet zijn. Maar het is over het algemeen wel een goed idee om, wanneer je voor het eerst iets maakt, om iets eenvoudigs te kiezen, bijvoorbeeld een sjaal of een muts. Enwe hebben ook een categorie 'basispatronen'.

17.12.2020 - 23:42

country flag Angela wrote:

Hallo hallo. Ich habe eine Frage. Ich bin gerade bei der passe. Und ich habe nun 88 Maschen (arbeite die größte Größe) und wenn ich wie in der Anleitung beschrieben arbeite komme ich am Ende des Musters bei 83 Maschen raus. Was mache ich mit den restlichen 5 Maschen? Oder habe ich bei der Anleitung was falsch verstanden? Ich würde mich riesig über eine Antwort freuen. Liebe Grüße.

07.12.2020 - 19:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Angela, so häkeln Sie die 88 M: A.2 über die ersten 24 M, die ersten 4 Symbole von A.2 häkeln (und nicht überspringen, Anleitung wird korrigiert) = 1 Stb + 10 Lm + 2 Stb häkeln, A.3 über die nächsten 2 Stb, je 1 Stb in die nächsten 12 Stb (= Ärmel), A.3 über die nächsten 2 Stb, 1 Stb in das nächste Stb , A.2 über die nächsten 24 M, die ersten 4 Symbole von A.2 häkeln (und nicht überspringen) = 1 Stb + 10 Lm + 2 Stb häkeln (= Vorderteil), A.3 über die nächsten 2 Stb, je 1 Stb in die nächsten 12 Stb, A.3 über die nächsten 2 Stäbchen, 1 Stäbchen in das letzte Stäbchen der Runde. = 24+3+2+12+2+1+24+3+2+12+2+1= 88M; Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.12.2020 - 08:43

country flag Mari wrote:

Hola! No entiendo esta parte: "comenzar a aumentar para el RAGLÁN – leer descripción arriba. Aumentar así en cada vuelta 1-2-3-3-4-4 veces, a cada 2ª vuelta 3-3-3-3-4-5 veces y después a cada 3ª vuelta 3-3-3-3-3-3 veces = 186-202-222-228-264-280 puntos" ¿Cuántas vueltas tengo que hacer y cada cuantas vueltas se hacen los aumentos?

30.11.2020 - 19:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mari, que talla haces?

07.12.2020 - 09:22

country flag Winnie wrote:

Jeg Jan ikke forstå udtagningerne vil i forklare

22.11.2020 - 00:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Winnie, forklaringen til Raglan-udtagningerne og udtagningerne jævnt fordelt står øverst i opskriften lige under FORKLARING TIL OPSKRIFTEN. God fornøjelse!

23.11.2020 - 15:39

country flag Lisa B wrote:

Hej, jag förstår inte informationen i sista stycket om ok. Jag virkar en medium, ska jag fortsätta att virka tre stolpar i första och sista stolparna i A3? Vad menas när det står 1a, sen vartannat och sen vart 3e varv? Det står att jag ska öka 3 på alla när jag virkar storlek M. Ska jag då alltså bara fortsätta samma alla varv fram tills den är 22 cm? :)

18.11.2020 - 12:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisa. Du ökar till raglan genom att virka 3 stolpar i den första och sista stolpen i A.3 och du ökar på detta sätt på varje varv 3 gånger, sedan på vartannat varv 3 gånger och sedan på vart tredje varv 3 gånger. När du gjort detta ska du ha 222 maskor och efter det virkar du vidare utan ökningar tills oket mäter 22 cm från markören. Mvh DROPS Design

24.11.2020 - 10:59

country flag Pierina Garcia Andersson wrote:

Jag förstår inte paragraf 3 i ok beskrivningen. Ska öglorna virkas tillsammans horisontell? Kan inte se på bilden i tröjan några horisontella öglor, bara vertikala och om jag virkar de horisontell blir det för stram. Och om det är horisontell hur virkar man nästa varv? Är det bakom kedjan, framför kedjan eller i maskorna i kedjan? Blir inte klok på detta. Tacksam om jag kan få en förklaring. Mvh/Pierina

01.11.2020 - 08:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pierina. Har du sett hjelpevideoen til hvordan denne struktur fletten hekles? Se evnt: Hur man virkar en strukturfläta. Her hekles det en kjedemaske i siste luftmaskeløkke, mens det i oppskriften skal hekles fastmaske, men videoen viser hvordan luftmaskeløkkene hekles, hvoran de hekles sammen til en strukturflette og hvordan de festes. God Fornøyelse!

09.11.2020 - 10:00

country flag Julia wrote:

Hej, Jeg er igang med bærestykket og jeg kan simpelthen ikke finde ud af at læse opskriften ordenligt. Jeg skal tage ud til raglan, så langt så godt. Så har jeg 82 masker i alt. Herefter skal jeg tage ud henholdsvis 2 gange, 3 og 3. Men jeg kan kkke få det til at blive 204 masker😅 Hvordan skal det regnes?

30.09.2020 - 17:33