DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 214-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-116
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Height: Measured down the middle = approx. 72 cm.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 172 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 g colour 11, hazelnut

CROCHET TENSION:
20 treble crochets in width and 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.19.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row, work 5 chain stitches. The chains replace the first double-treble crochet.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet but wait with the last pull-through (= 2 loops on hook), work the next treble crochet and on the last pull-through pull the strand through all the loops on the hook.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets in the same stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth and top down.

SHAWL:
Use crochet hook size 3.5 mm and Sky, read CROCHET INFORMATION and work as follows:

Work diagram A.1.

Work A.2, A.3 (= 4 times in width), A.4 over the tip, A.3 (= 4 times in width) and A.5. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 29 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work A.6, A.7 (= 8 times in width), A.8 over the tip, A.7 (= 8 times in width) and A.9. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 38 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work A.10, A.11 (= 11 times in width), A.12 over the tip, A.13 (= 11 times in width) and A.14. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 61 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work A.15, A.16 (= 7 times in width), A.17 over the tip, A.18 (= 7 times in width) and A.19. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 83 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work A.2, A.3 (= 26 times in width), A.4 over the tip, A.3 (= 26 times in width) and A.5. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 95 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work A.6, A.7 (= 30 times in width), A.8 over the tip, A.7 (= 30 times in width) and A.9. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 104 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work the first row in diagrams A.10, A.11 (= 33 times in width), A.12 over the tip, A.13 (= 33 times in width) and A.14. Work the next 3 rows. Work the last row and decrease 2 treble crochets evenly spaced over the repeats of A.11 and decrease 2 treble crochets evenly spaced over the repeats of A.13. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 125 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work the first row in diagrams A.15, A.16 (= 15 times in width), A.17 over the tip, A.18 (= 15 times in width) and A.19. Work the next 3 rows. Work the last row and increase 2 treble crochets evenly spaced before the tip and 2 treble crochets evenly spaced after the tip. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 149 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work the first row in diagrams A.19, A.18 (= 18 times in width), A.17 over the tip, A.16 (= 18 times in width) and A.15. Work the next 3 rows. Work the last row and increase 2 treble crochets evenly spaced before the tip and 2 treble crochets evenly spaced after the tip. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 173 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work the first row in diagrams A.15, A.16 (= 21 times in width), A.17 over the tip, A.18 (= 21 times in width) and A.19. Work the next 3 rows. Work the last row and increase 2 treble crochets evenly spaced before the tip and 2 treble crochets evenly spaced after the tip. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 197 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work A.2, A.3 (= 64 times in width), A.4 over the tip, A.3 (= 64 times in width) and A.5. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 209 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work A.6, A.7 (68 times in width), A.8 over the tip, A.7 (68 times in width) and A.9. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 218 treble crochets on either side of the tip.

Work the first row in diagrams A.10, A.11 (= 71 times in width), A.12 over the tip, A.13 (= 71 times in width) and A.14. Work the next 2 rows. Work the last row in the diagrams and decrease 2 treble crochets evenly spaced over the repeats of A.11 and decrease 2 treble crochets evenly spaced over the repeats of A.13. When all the diagrams have been completed in height there are 237 treble crochets on either side of the tip. The piece measures approx. 51 cm in the crochet direction and 72 cm down the middle. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

symbols = Start here! Work 4 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch – see point on circle and continue in direction of arrow
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = double-treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = treble crochet between 2 treble crochets
symbols = shows last row in previous diagram; this row has already been worked
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 3 chain stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Ruth wrote:

Hola, estoy tejiendo el chal, pero tengo un problema, cuando acabo de tejer la primera vuelta de todo el patrón, hasta a19, me coinciden los puntos, pero no sé me queda bien la forma.

06.03.2023 - 00:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ruth, en este punto no sería la primera vuelta, sino que la mitad del chal, cuando llegues a A.19, donde tendrías 149 pts. Si la forma no es adecuada, comprueba que el patrón esté simétrico, con la misma cantidad de pts a cada lado del centro. Por otro lado, asegúrate de que la tensión de trabajo sea correcta. Qué es lo que no te queda bien de la forma? Si nos lo indicas podemos intentar ayudarte a alcanzar una solución.

12.03.2023 - 18:16

country flag Juliana wrote:

About your answer to Birgitte about this pattern: DROPS 214-7. You said "When you finish A. 1, you have 17 stitches on each side of the tip. You start with A.2 and crochet 5 stitches in 3 stitches. Then crochet A.3 4 times (over 12 stitches), then crochet A.4 over the tip. Then A.3 4 times and A.5 over the last 3 stitches." Your diagram does not mention those extra stitches in A.2. If I crochet those , that will affect the rest of the pattern. How do I adjust the pattern to account for that?

23.02.2023 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Juliana, it might have been a typo, there are only 3 sts on the first row in A.2 and A.5 - just work as explained in the written patern following the diagram at the same time. Happy crocheting!

24.02.2023 - 09:44

country flag Jo wrote:

Rebonjour, Annule ma question. J'ai résolu pourquoi ! Merci

01.05.2022 - 17:23

country flag Jo wrote:

Concernant le diagramme A2 A5, j'obtiens 34 brides au lieu des 29. J'ai beau réfléchir, impossible de trouver la solution. Merci pour votre réponse

01.05.2022 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jo, vous devez avoir: A.2 (= 9 brides), 4 x A.3 (= 12 brides) et A.4 (8 brides avant l'arceau) soit: 9+12+8=29. Bon crochet!

02.05.2022 - 10:05

country flag Dillenseger Stéphanie wrote:

Quand on crochète la 2ème fois le diagramme A14 à A18, il est indiqué qu'on doit obtenir149 mailles. Or si on regarde le diagramme, on a 13 mailles, puis 15x8 (soit 120 mailles) puis enfin au milieu, 14 mailles. Ce qui fait un total de 147 mailles.... Comment faire ? Merci d'avance

24.02.2022 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dillenseger, au dernier rang des diagrammes, vous devez augmenter à intervalles réguliers 2 brides avant et 2 brides après la pointe, autrement dit 147 (après les diagrammes + 2 = 149 brides). Bon crochet!

24.02.2022 - 17:50

country flag Gabi wrote:

Kann ich diese Anleitung auch mit Drops Alpaca häkeln?

05.08.2021 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gabi, dieses Modell wird mit DROPS Sky gehäkelt, dh mit einem Garn der Garngruppe B, DROPS Alpaca gehört aber zu der Garngruppe A - Hier finden Sie alle unsere Modellen für Alpaca bzw Garngruppe A. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

05.08.2021 - 14:21

country flag Leena wrote:

Hei! En ymmärrä samaa jota Matilda aikaisemmin. Voitteko kertoa ohjeen suomeksi.

08.04.2021 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, tässä kohtaa virkataan 1 kiinteä silmukka pylvääseen, 2 ketjusilmukkaa ja 1 kiinteä silmukka samaan pylvääseen, jne.

14.04.2021 - 17:07

country flag Birgitte wrote:

Når jeg har hæklet diagram A1 og skal videre med rækken A2, A3, A4 og A5, så er jeg i tvivl om række følgen og antallet af masker. Skal det forstås sådan at jeg kun skal hækle diagram A2 én gang i den første maske, derefter springe 2 masker over og hækle A3 fire gange i træk inden jeg hækler hen over spidsen? Ellers kan jeg ikke få antallet af masker til at stemme, hvis jeg hækler A2 og derefter A3 direkte i næste maske.

19.03.2021 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgitte. Når du er ferdig med A. 1 har du 17 masker på hver side av spissen. Du starter med A.2 og hekler 5 masker i 3 masker. Husk * (stjernene) i diagrammene viser forrige rad. Deretter hekler du A.3 4 ganger (over 12 masker), så hekler du A.4 over spissen. Deretter A.3 4 ganger og A.5 over de siste 3 maskene. mvh DROPS design

07.04.2021 - 10:34

country flag Gabard wrote:

Bonjour, Je viens de faire le premier bloc A6 à A9 et je commence le premier bloc A.10 à A11. Lorsque je me réfère aux diagrammes A10 et A11, je ne comprends pas comment réaliser A11 par rapport au tour précédent. Au début (A10, j'ai bien une double bride puis 5 brides dans des mailles). Dois-je donc sauter les trois brides et effectuer les trois brides dans la bride du milieu autour de l'arceau ? Si je fais ca sur la longueur, je n'obtiens jamais 11 répétitions.

25.12.2020 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gabard, vous allez crocheter A.11 au-dessus des 4 dernières brides de A.6 + les 30 motifs de A.7 (=90 brides) + les 5 premières brides de A.8 = 99 brides au total. Ainsi vous avez bien 33 motifs de A.11 (= 99 brides). Bon crochet

04.01.2021 - 08:18

country flag Matilda wrote:

Hej! Jag förstår inte hur fastmaskorna x och de luftmaskor som visas som två sneda streck över symbol x i andra varvet i diagram A. 15 -A.19 ska virkas. Symbol x betyder fastmaska i maska men i diagrammet visas två fastmaskor bredvid varandra där det i föregående varv bara finns en stolpe (A. 16). Ska båda fastmaskorna virkas i samma stolpe? Förstår inte heller i vilka maskor stolpgrupperna med tre stolpar i följande varv (3) ska virkas. Tack för hjälpen/ Matilda

02.12.2020 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Matilda, de skall virkas som 1 fastm i 1 stolpe, 2 lm, 1 fastm i samma stolpe osv. Lycka till :)

10.12.2020 - 15:49