DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Wake the Wind Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with textured pattern and displacements. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 212-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-882
Yarn group A + A or C
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-250-300-350 g colour 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 24 rows in height with textured pattern (= A.3) and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for textured pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 6 items in all sizes.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all rows from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 5 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, work 6 stitches (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 8) = 5.5.
In this example decrease by alternately knitting together each 4th and 5th stitch and each 5th and 6th stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Work buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over = hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures (the last buttonhole is worked on first row of the neck)
XS: 3, 9, 15, 21, 27 and 33 cm
S: 4, 11, 17, 23, 29 and 35 cm
M: 4, 11, 17, 24, 30 and 37 cm
L: 3, 10, 17, 24, 31 and 38 cm
XL: 3, 10, 18, 25, 33 and 40 cm
XXL: 4, 12, 20, 27, 34 and 42 cm

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections and sewn together to finish. The body is worked back and forth as far as the armholes, then stitches are cast off for the armholes and the piece is divided for the front and back pieces, which are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The neck is worked back and forth to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 224-240-256-272-304-320 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches (= band), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the needle, knit 2 and finish with A.2 over the last 5 stitches (= band). Continue this rib for 4 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
When the rib is finished, work 1 row from the right side where all purl-2 sections are purled together to purl-1 (do not decrease over the bands) = 171-183-195-207-231-243 stitches. Purl 1 row back from the wrong side (bands worked as before). Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
You will later work textured pattern with displacements in the sides. The displacements will cause the piece to arch downwards in the sides and upwards mid front and back. To avoid the piece arching upwards mid-back you can now work short rows as follows:
Start from the right side and work A.1 (= band), knit 2, A.3 (= 3 stitches – NOTE: The 2 knitted stitches in A.3 should lie over the 2 knitted stitches in the rib) over the next 78-84-90-96-108-114 stitches, insert a marker here (= before the mid-stitch on the row = 1 stitch in garter stitch).
Continue working A.3 (= 3 stitches) 9-12-15-18-24-27 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and work A.3 back over 17-23-29-35-47-53 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and work A.3 over 20-26-32-38-50-56 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and work A.3 over 23-29-35-41-53-59 stitches. Continue back and forth like this, working 3 more stitches each time you turn and until you have worked 20 short rows. The last row is worked from the wrong side. Turn, work A.3 until there are 5 stitches left on the row and finish with A.2 (= band). Turn and work 1 row back from the wrong side with A.3 and A.1/A.2 as before.
Now work pattern as follows: A.1 (= band), knit 2, A.3 over the next 9-12-15-18-24-27 stitches (= 3-4-5-6-8-9 repeats of 3 stitches), A.4 over the next 29 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= in the side), A.5 over the next 29 stitches, knit 2, A.3 over the next 21-27-33-39-51-57 stitches (= 7-9-11-13-17-19 repeats of 3 stitches), A.4 over the next 29 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= in the side), A.5 over the next 29 stitches, knit 2, A.3 over the next 9-12-15-18-24-27 stitches (= 3-4-5-6-8-9 repeats), A.2 (= band).
Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used later. Continue the pattern back and forth.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.4 and A.5 have been completed in height, repeat the diagrams in height 2 more times (= a total of 3 times). Then continue with stocking stitch over stocking stitch and garter stitch over garter stitch over the 29 stitches on each side of both marker threads. The other stitches are continued as before. On the next row from the right side begin to decrease on each side of the marker threads – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 3 times = 159-171-183-195-219-231 stitches.
When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm measured from the cast-on edge and along the marker thread in the side (i.e. longest part), cast off 8-8-8-14-14-14 stitches on each side for the armholes (= 4-4-4-7-7-7 stitches on each side of both marker threads). There are 67-73-79-79-91-97 stitches on the back piece and 38-41-44-44-50-53 stitches on each front piece. Each piece is finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 67-73-79-79-91-97 stitches. Continue back and forth with textured pattern (= A.3) as before. Towards the armholes knit 2 inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm from where stitches were cast off for the armholes, cast off the middle 33-33-33-39-39-39 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. On the next row from the neck cast off 1 stitch = 16-19-22-19-25-28 stitches on the shoulder.
Continue until the piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm from where stitches were cast off for the armholes. Cast off with knit. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down (measured at its longest).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-41-44-44-50-53 stitches. Continue back and forth with 5 band stitches (= A.1) and textured pattern as before. Towards the armhole, knit 2 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 8-9-10-10-11-12 cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side, work as follows: Work the first 16-16-16-19-19-19 stitches (= 5 band stitches + 11-11-11-14-14-14 stitches in pattern) and place them on a thread for the neck, work A.7 over the next 13 stitches (= towards the neck), work the remaining stitches as before.
Continue back and forth like this until A.7 has been completed in height = 16-19-22-19-25-28 stitches. When the piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm from where stitches were cast off for the armholes, cast off with knit. The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down (measured where it is longest).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-41-44-44-50-53 stitches. Continue back and forth with textured pattern and 5 band stitches (= A.2) as before. Towards the armhole, knit 2 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 8-9-10-10-11-12 cm – adjust so the next row is worked from the wrong side, work as follows: Work the first 16-16-16-19-19-19 stitches (= 5 band stitches + 11-11-11-14-14-14 stitches in pattern) and place them on a thread for the neck, work to end of row as before. Now work pattern from the right side as follows: Work pattern as before until there are 13 stitches left on the row, A.6 over the last 13 stitches (= towards the neck).
Continue back and forth like this until A.6 has been completed in height = 16-19-22-19-25-28 stitches. When the piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm from where stitches were cast off for the armholes, cast off with knit. The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down (measured where it is longest).

SLEEVE:
Cast on 44-44-48-48-48-52 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) in the round for4 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 8-8-10-8-6-8 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 36-36-38-40-42-44 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 8-8-8-9-8-8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 7-5-5-4-3½-3½ cm a total of 6-8-8-9-10-10 times = 48-52-54-58-62-64 stitches. When the sleeve measures 47-47-46-46-43-42 cm (shorter sleeves in larger sizes due to longer yoke), finish the sleeve back and forth from the beginning of the round, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. This gives you a split which is sewn to the bottom of the armhole. When the sleeve measures 50-50-49-50-47-46 cm, cast off with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the cast-off edge. Sew the sleeves to the body inside the 1 edge stitch on the body and the cast-off edge on the sleeves. Sew the split to the 4-4-4-7-7-7 stitches cast off for the armhole. Sew the buttons onto the left band (work the last buttonhole on first row of the neck and sew button to the band afterwards).

NECK:
Start from the right side with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) and circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit up 92 to 104 stitches around the neck, including the stitches from the threads (number of stitches should be divisible by 4 + 2 + 10 band stitches). Purl 1 row back from the wrong side (bands worked as before). Work rib back and forth (= knit 2 / purl 2), with bands as before and knit 2 inside the bands on both sides. When the neck measures 8 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – make sure the cast-off edge is not tight. Fold the neck double to the wrong side and sew down. Make sure the seam is not tight and that the neck is not sewn over the last buttonhole.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.11.2020
Correction: Buttonholes placement updated.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs. When in the round work the next round as follows: Knit the first yarn over and knit twisted the second. When working back and forth work the next row as follows (= wrong side): Purl twisted the first yarn over and purl the second (= 2 stitches increased). Then work the new stitches into the pattern.
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs. When in the round work the next round as follows: Knit twisted the first yarn over and knit the second. When working back and forth work the next row as follows (= wrong side): Purl the first yarn over and purl twisted the second (= 2 stitches increased). Then work the new stitches into the pattern.
symbols = knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased)
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 212-7

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Lia De Wind wrote:

Ik snap de lege velden van A4 en A5 niet. Moet ik de steken van de bovenste rij erbij optellen? Want dan zijn er veel meer dan 29 steken. Wel een prachtig patroon trouwens

19.01.2023 - 22:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lia,

Nee, deze tel je er niet bij op. De eerstvolgende steek op je linker naald brei je in de eerstvolgende steek zoals aangegeven in het telpatroon. Het lege stuk sla je dus gewoon over, m.a.w. je zou het er tussen uit kunnen knippen en de hokjes aan elkaar plakken.

22.01.2023 - 19:10

country flag Tina Petersen wrote:

Til diagram forklaring A5. Lav 3 omslag mellem 2 masker. Der står at der kun er taget 2 masker ud - er det ikke 3 masker taget ud? Og hvordan skal det sidste omslag strikkes ? Der er kun anført hvordan de 2 første omslag skal strikkes.

13.05.2021 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, det skal være 2 omslag og det er nu blevet rettet. Tak for info :)

14.05.2021 - 09:10

country flag Angèle wrote:

Quelle quantité de pelotes de laine est nécessaire pour la grandeur XL. Ma laine à le même échantillon suggéré. Merci!

02.01.2021 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Angéle. Il faut 6 pelotes DROPS ALPACA et 6 pelotes DROPS KID-SILK pour la grandeur XL. Bon tricot!

02.01.2021 - 19:45

country flag PG wrote:

Please demonstrate for the armholes: "knit 2 inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch".

16.10.2020 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear PG, this means you work from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, knit 2, work as before until 3 sts remain, finish with knit 2, 1 edge st in garter st, from WS work: 1 edge st in garter st, purl 2, work as before until 3 sts remain, finish with purl 2, 1 edge st in garter st. Happy knitting!

19.10.2020 - 07:52

country flag Pia Tangen wrote:

Hei, når man skal begynne å strikke de første forkortede pinnene på bolen(strikker XS), midt bak, så står det at man skal strikke 9 masker etter merket for så å snu pinnen og strikke 17 tilbake, når man snur igjen da for å strikke 20 masker med A.3, skal den første masken i A.3(den vrange) strikkes først da? Da havner den over den første av de rette i vrangborden. Eller skal man strikke slik at alle vrange masker(sett fra rett) i A.3 havner over den vrange masken i raden under?

10.10.2020 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, ja vrangmaskerne skal havne på en lige linje over hinanden som du kan se i diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

28.10.2020 - 13:38

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Beskrivningen säger 6 knappar och anger var knapphålen ska komma räknat från uppläggnningskanten: Sjätte knapphålet 39 cm från uppläggningskanten vilket jag har men då har jag ännu inte kommit upp till halskanten. Mina mått i övrigt stämmer med beskrivningen och knapphålet i halskanten kommer alltså att vara det 7:e . Det behövs alltså 7 st knappar.

09.10.2020 - 13:25

country flag PG wrote:

Thank you for the quick response. The instructions say to knit 20 short rows, but that is not what your response says. I am making size medium. Am I adding new stitches with each short row or creating new stitches in A.3? Please be specific: how many stitches will there be when the short rows are completed? Can you (or any readers) send a photo of the lower back of this sweater?

03.09.2020 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear PG, sorry my mistake, I missed that part ... you continue working 3 sts more at the end of each row until you have worked a total of 20 short rows, then work next row over all sts on left needle (no more short rows here), turn and work A.3 with front band sts as before over all sts on next row. We do not have any photo from the back piece, but it's jsut a few rows worked over A.3 on mid back. Happy knitting!

03.09.2020 - 15:51

country flag PG wrote:

I am having trouble with the short rows in the Body, after the ribbing. Am I suppose to add 3 stitches (1 pattern of A.3) with each of the short rows or use the next 3 stitches on the needle? How many stitches are on the needle in total after the short rows? Can you send a photo of the back of the sweater?

03.09.2020 - 03:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear PG, you should work 3 more sts in A.3 at the end of each row, ie you work first 9-12-15-18-24-27 sts in A.3 after marker, then turn now 17-23-29-35-47-53 in A.3, turn and work now these sts + 3 more sts = 20-26-32-38-50-56 sts in A.3, turn and work 3 more sts = 23-29-35-41-53-59 sts in A.3, turn and work 3 more sts in A.3 = 26-32-38-45-56-62 sts and so on until 5 sts remain (=A.2) at the end of the row, then turn and work all sts with A.2, A.3 to the end of row and finish with A.1. Happy knitting!

03.09.2020 - 09:09

country flag Laura wrote:

Hello, I have knitted many of your beautiful patterns over the years but with reference to Drops 212-7 pattern, I am having trouble understanding what the blank spaces, the gaps, in A.4 and A.5 mean, I can’t find an explanation, in A.4 for example what do I do after stitch 1 with the next 12 stitches (row 1). I am unfamiliar with the ‘gap’ when working within a specific number of stitches. Kind regards, Laura

29.04.2020 - 04:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laura, you will increase (with 2 yarn overs) and decrease (with k3 tog) in A.4 and A.5, let's take A.4: you increase first after the first stitch (on 5th row) and then decrease after the next 13 sts. The new stitches increased on this row do not exist before row 6, that's why they are not drawn before row 6. Same for the decreases but reversed, the 2 sts decreased on row 5 are not there anymore on row 6, reason why they are not there anymore. Just read diagram row after row, if there weren't no space - you should always have 29 sts in diagram and increase/decrease on either side of the same 13 stitches. Hope this helps, happy knitting!

29.04.2020 - 09:14

country flag Mila wrote:

Hallo lieber Drops - Team! Wäre es möglich ein Bild vom Rücken zu veröffentlichen? Ich finde, es wäre sehr nützlich! Danke!

20.04.2020 - 10:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mila, wir haben leider kein Foto vom Rücken, wir können Ihnen aber sicher irgendwie helfen, gerne können Sie Ihre Frage hier stellen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.04.2020 - 11:30