DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 211-20
DROPS design: Pattern de-212
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Height: Measured along middle stitch = approx. 56 cm = 22”
Width: Measured along the top side from side to side = approx. 184 cm = 54 1/2”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g color 0100, off white
And use:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g color no 05, beige/grey/pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
18 stitches in width and 42 rows vertically (i.e. 21 visible stitches vertically) with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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ENGLISH RIB STITCH:
An English rib stitch is a stitch (slipped loosely off the needle) with a yarn over the stitch is worked together with (on next row) - yarn is not counted as a separate stitch. NOTE! On row with increase there are no yarn overs around stitches increased. This means that these stitches as worked alone - without yarn overs.

INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE: Knit yarn over and stitch together but wait to slip them off left needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit stitch and yarn over together 1 more time = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).

INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM WRONG SIDE: Purl yarn over and stitch together but wait to slip them off left needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and purl stitch and yarn over together 1 more time = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).

INCREASE 4 STITCHES: * Knit yarn over and stitch together but wait to slip them off left needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle *, work from *-* 2 times in total , and knit stitch and yarn over together 1 more time = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased).


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle, work top down. Work alternately with Delight and Alpaca.

SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with Alpaca and work as follows:

ROW 1 (= from wrong side): Knit 1 edge stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 1 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 1 edge stitch. Turn piece.

ROW 2 (= from right side): Knit 1 edge stitch, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE in next stitch - read explanation above, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 4 STITCHES in next stitch - read explanation above (= middle stitch, insert a marker in this stitch and move it upwards when working. It will make it easier to see where to increase), make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE in next stitch. Knit 1 edge stitch (= 8 stitches increased in total). Do not turn piece, next row is also worked from right side.

ROW 3 (= from right side): Switch to Delight. Read ENGLISH RIB STITCH in explanation above. Knit 1 edge stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on row. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 1 edge stitch. Turn piece.

ROW 4 (= from wrong side): Switch to Alpaca. Knit 1 edge stitch, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM WRONG SIDE in next stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 purlwise, purl 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM WRONG SIDE in next stitch. Knit 1 edge stitch (= 4 stitches increased in total). Do not turn piece, next row is also worked from wrong side.

ROW 5 (= wrong side): Switch to Delight. Knit 1 edge stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on row. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 1 edge stitch. Turn piece.

ROW 6 (= right side): Switch to Alpaca. Knit 1 edge stitch, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE in next stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 purlwise, knit 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE in next stitch and knit 1 edge stitch (= 4 stitches increased in total). Do not turn piece, next row is also worked from right side.

ROW 7 (= right side): Switch to Delight. Knit 1 edge stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on row. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 1 edge stitch. Turn piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

ROW 8 (= wrong side): Switch to Alpaca. Knit 1 edge stitch, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM WRONG SIDE in next stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 purlwise, purl 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM WRONG SIDE in next stitch. Knit 1 edge stitch (= 4 stitches increased in total). Do not turn piece, next row is also worked from wrong side.

ROW 9 (= wrong side): Switch to Delight. Knit 1 edge stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on row. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 1 edge stitch. Turn piece.

ROW 10 (= right side): Switch to Alpaca. Knit 1 edge stitch, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE in next stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 purlwise, knit 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains before middle stitch, make 1 yarn over and slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 4 STITCHES in next stitch (= middle stitch), work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on row, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE in next stitch. Knit 1 edge stitch (= 8 stitches increased in total). Do not turn piece, next row is also worked from right side.

ROW 11 (= right side): Switch to Delight. Knit 1 edge stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on row. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 1 edge stitch. Turn piece.

ROW 12 (= from wrong side): Switch to Alpaca. Knit 1 edge stitch, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM WRONG SIDE in next stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 purlwise, purl 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM WRONG SIDE in next stitch. Knit 1 edge stitch (= 4 stitches increased in total). Do not turn piece, next row is also worked from wrong side.

ROW 13 (= wrong side): Switch to Delight. Knit 1 edge stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on row. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 1 edge stitch. Turn piece.

ROW 14 (= right side): Switch to Alpaca. Knit 1 edge stitch, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE in next stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 purlwise, knit 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains before middle stitch, make 1 yarn over and slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 4 STITCHES in next stitch (= middle stitch), work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on row, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, INCREASE 2 STITCHES FROM RIGHT SIDE in next stitch. Knit 1 edge stitch (= 8 stitches increased in total). Do not turn piece, next row is also worked from right side.

ROW 15 (= right side): Switch to Delight. Knit 1 edge stitch, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 1 English rib stitch *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on row. Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise. Knit 1 edge stitch. Turn piece.

Repeat rows 4-15 until piece measures approx. 56 cm = 22” measured along middle stitch.

BIND-OFF:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge, bind off yarn overs as separate stitches (so that 1 stitch + 1 stitch with yarn over becomes 3 stitches when binding off). If the edges still is tight use a larger needle size for bind-off. Fasten off.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Maria wrote:

Cuando dice aumentar 4 puntos centrales pero se ven 3 en la foto??

15.01.2024 - 05:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maria, puedes ver la respuesta debajo.

22.01.2024 - 23:53

country flag Maria wrote:

Los aumentos centrales son de 4 puntos pero en la foto resultan de 3 en el lado derecho?

14.01.2024 - 21:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maria, el patrón es correcto: son 4 aumentos. Por lo tanto, de 1 punto salen 5. El punto central (3º) está marcado porque es el punto central del chal.

14.01.2024 - 23:22

country flag Gohlke wrote:

Hallo, eine Frage zu Ihrer schönen Anleitung: \r\nIn den Reihen 10 und 14 werden in der Mitte Maschen zugenommen für die Formgebung.\r\nWarum werden in der Reihe 6 keine Maschen zugenommen?? Das wäre logisch, weil dann die Zunahme in der Mitte regelmäßig verteilt wären. In Ihrer Anleitung ist zwischen der 10. und 14. Reihe ein Zwischenraum von 3 Reihen und zwischen der 14. und 10. Reihe (bei Wiederholung) ein Zwischenraum von 7 Reihen. Danke im Voraus für eine Antwort.

01.12.2022 - 11:53

country flag Ariane wrote:

Bonjour! C’est un modèle vraiment superbe et très amusant à réaliser. Petite question cependant: l’augmentation de 4 mailles dans la maille centrale doit s’effectuer aux rangs 10 et 14 (et au rang 2 seulement au début). Pourquoi pas une augmentation de 4 mailles au rang 6 également? Merci d’avance.

15.11.2022 - 00:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ariane et merci, on augmente les 4 mailles au milieu aux rangs 10 et 14 seulement pour obtenir la forme et les dimensions souhaitées. Bon tricot!

15.11.2022 - 09:36

country flag Pia Ashling wrote:

Hejsa ! Jeg har problemer med pind nr 3 - uanset hvordan jeg bærer mig ad, kan jeg ikke få det til at passe ? Jeg tror det er udtagningerne det går galt med for jeg kan ikke gennemskue hvornår jeg skal strikke en patentmaske dvs maske+ omslag og hvornår jeg skal strikke en udtagningsmaske uden omslag ? Hvordan ser man forskel ? Mvh, Pia A

01.08.2021 - 13:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia. En patentmaske er en maske (som er tatt løst av pinnen) med et tilhørende kast som masken strikkes sammen med (på neste pinne). På pinne med økning, er det ikke noe kast om maskene som er økt. Det betyr at disse maskene strikkes alene – uten kast. I oppskriften økes det på pinne 2, 4, 6, 8 osv, det er de pinnene det strikkes med Alpaca. Vi skal prøve å få laget en video på starten av dette sjalet. mvh DROPS design

16.08.2021 - 11:20

country flag Ineke wrote:

Klopt het dat in de naalden 10 en 14 een averechte patentsteek moet worden gebreid? Er is nu 1 nld recht patent(nld9), daarna 3 nldn averecht patent( nld10 t/m12) dan weer 1 recht patent en weer 3 averecht patent. Terwijl het begin is 2 recht patent, 2 averecht patent. Het lijkt mij de bedoeling dat het 2 om 2 doorgaat, zodat je aan beide zijden strepen in rechte steken ziet. Dan zou in nld 10 en 14 de patentsteek recht gebreid moeten worden. Al vast hartelijk dank voor uw antwoord.

13.09.2020 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ineke,

Ja, ik denk inderdaad dat je gelijk hebt en dat naalden 10 en 14 in rechte Engelse patentsteek gebreid moeten worden. Ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling om na te kijken en te corrigeren. Hopelijk kan je zo eerst verder.

18.11.2020 - 21:24

country flag Héliane Terache wrote:

Bonjour, Je souhaiterais avoir une précision : dans ce modèle, aux rangs 10 et 14, dans le corps du tricot, s'agit-il vraiment de tricoter les mailles côtes anglaises à l'envers ? Ne doivent-elles pas se tricoter - maille et son jeté - à l'endroit pour respecter la logique de la côte anglaise ? Sauf, bien sûr, si le châle ne suit pas l'exécution de la côte anglaise traditionnelle... Merci d'avance pour votre aide. Héliane Terache.

11.06.2020 - 14:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Terache, effectivement, on tricote ici en côtes anglaises bicolores, autrement dit, on va tricoter alternativement 2 rangs sur l'endroit et 2 rangs sur l'envers, les côtes anglaises vont donc se tricoter alternativement ensemble à l'endroit ou ensemble à l'envers en fonction du rang. cette vidéo montre comment tricoter ce type de côtes anglaises. Bon tricot!

11.06.2020 - 16:07

country flag Michelina wrote:

Scialle infinity

26.02.2020 - 20:50

country flag Joop wrote:

Hoppas den är tillgänglig snart!!!!!

13.02.2020 - 11:08

country flag Clarisse wrote:

Génial, j'adore...moderne, magnifique !

16.01.2020 - 21:05