DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Rose Blush

Knitted vest / slipover in DROPS Sky or DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked with ribbed edging and a split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 212-44
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-093
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour 18, dusty pink
or use:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-300-300 g colour 03 sand

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 88 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 8) = 9.8.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 9th and 10th stitch together (do not decrease over the edge stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections and sewn together to finish. Stitches are knitted up for the ribbed edges around the armholes and neck.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 88-96-104-116-128-144 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * 2 stitches in stocking stitch , 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, 2 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this for 3 cm. Now knit 1 row from the right side, where you decrease 8-8-8-10-10-14 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 80-88-96-106-118-130 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Work stocking stitch back and forth with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 4-5-6-7-8-9 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-5-5 times = 68-70-72-74-76-78 stitches. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the middle 30-30-32-32-34-34 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by casting off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 18-19-19-20-20-21 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm from where stitches were first cast off for the armhole. Cast off with knit (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).
The piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 88-96-104-116-128-144 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 edge stitches in garter stitch – read description above, * 2 stitches in stocking stitch, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, 2 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this for 3 cm. Now knit 1 row from the right side, where you decrease 8-8-8-10-10-14 stitches evenly spaced = 80-88-96-106-118-130 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Work stocking stitch back and forth with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 4-5-6-7-8-9 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-5-5 times = 68-70-72-74-76-78 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm, then place the middle 16-16-18-18-18-18 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by casting off on each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1-1-1-1-2-2 times = 18-19-19-20-20-21 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm from where stitches were first cast off for the armhole. Cast off with knit (make sure the cast-off edge is not tight).
The piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the cast-off edge. Start under the sleeve and sew the side seam in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat – leave approx. 18 cm for the split. Repeat on the other side.

NECK:
Start from the right side at the one shoulder seam and knit up with short circular needle size 3.5 mm approx. 100 to 120 stitches (including the 16-16-18-18-18-18 stitches on the thread) inside the 1 stitch around the whole neck (number of stitches must be divisible by 4). Work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) in the round for 2½-3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

EDGE AROUND ARMHOLES:
Start from the right side at the side seam under the sleeve and knit up with short circular needle size 3.5 mm approx. 96 to 120 stitches around the armhole (number of stitches must be divisible by 4). Work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other edge around armhole in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 212-44

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Comments / Questions (151)

country flag Gine wrote:

Bonjour. Je suis à faire le dos et suis rendu à 35 cm . On demande de rabattre pour les emmanchures. Je ne comprend pas . Doit-on diminuer sur un seul rang? 1 fois 5 m, 1 fois 2 m.et 2 fois 1 m. On dit au début de ch gros. De chaque côté. Pouvez-vous m’expliquer? Merci Gine

11.02.2023 - 00:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gine, on doit rabattre (et non diminuer) au début de chaque rang de chaque côté, autrement dit en début de rang sur l'endroit et en début de rang sur l'envers (pour que les emmanchures soient symétriques), en M: 5 x 1 m (= 1 m au début des 10 rangs suivants) puis 2 m au début des 2 rangs suivants et 2 x 1 m (= 1 m au début des 4 rangs suivants) = vous rabattez 18 m au total, il vous reste 70 mailles. Bon tricot!

13.02.2023 - 08:57

country flag Miranda wrote:

Hello! I have a questions about casting off the armholes. "cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side: Cast off 4-5-6-7-8-9 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-5-5 times = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts." In this instruction, I read that for a size SM, you cast off 4 sts 1 time, then 1 st 2 times. Since I'm starting with 80 sts, That leaves me with 74 sts, but the patterns says I should have 68 at the end?

04.02.2023 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Miranda, you need to cast off once or twice on each side. So cast off 4 stitches once on one side and 4 stitches on the other side. Then, cast off 1 stitch on each side twice (so, cast off 4 more stitches). 4+4+4 = 12 cast-off stitches. 80-12 = 68 stitches. Happy knitting!

06.02.2023 - 00:14

country flag Miranda wrote:

Hello! I have a question about casting off the armholes. "cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side: Cast off 4-5-6-7-8-9 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-5-5 times = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts." In this instruction, I read that for a size SM, you cast off 4 sts 1 time, then 1 st 2 times. Since I'm starting with 80 sts, That leaves me with 74 sts, but the patterns says I should have 68 at the end?

04.02.2023 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Miranda, you need to cast off once or twice on each side. So cast off 4 stitches once on one side and 4 stitches on the other side. Then, cast off 1 stitch on each side twice (so, cast off 4 more stitches). 4+4+4 = 12 cast-off stitches. 80-12 = 68 stitches. Happy knitting!

06.02.2023 - 00:14

country flag Hanne Estdahl wrote:

Må op pind 5 1/2 for at strikkefastheden passer , og 150 g garn ( drops sky ) er bestemt heller ikke nok , strikker en str medium . Er ret træls at få sådan en opskrift der åbenbart ikke er afprøvet , skulle bruge vesten til julegave og er ikke sikker på jeg nu kan få samme indfarvning , surt .

17.12.2022 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, Det er individuelt hvilken pind som skal bruges for at få strikkefastheden som står i opskriften. I denne opskrift er det vigtigt at du får 20 masker i bredden og 26 pinde i højden på 10x10 cm, overholder du strikkefastheden vil det også være nok garn :)

20.12.2022 - 08:33

country flag Tanja wrote:

Den strikkefasthed, der angives i opskriften - er det på pind 4,5 eller 3,5 ? Jeg har købt soft tweed

04.12.2022 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tanja. Strikkefastheten som oppgis er med den pinnen selve plagget strikkes med, ikke vrangbord. I denne vesten er det DROPS RUNDPINNER NR 4,5, men husk pinne nr er kun veiledende. Får du for mange masker på 10 cm, bytt til tykkere pinner. Får du for få masker på 10 cm, bytt til tynnere pinner. mvh DROPS Design

05.12.2022 - 14:14

country flag Marita Weslien wrote:

Hej, jag har stickat mycket och aldrig haft problem med stickfastigheten. Detta mönster med 20m på 10 cm kan du inte nå på stickor 4,5 slätstickning. Då måste man sticka oerhört löst. Jag vill att ni kontrollerar och ändrar i mönstret. Ser att flera i kommentarsfältet också tar upp detta problem.

02.11.2022 - 20:01

country flag Melanie Proudlock wrote:

I did keep the tension correct but only by using larger needles, had to use 5.5 mm instead of 4.5 mm

15.10.2022 - 09:32

country flag Melanie Proudlock wrote:

I bought 150 grams of the Sky yarn to make the Medium size vest but found I had to increase the size of the needles and make a bigger size to get the correct dimensions. I now find I have insufficient yarn to finish the piece and the dye lot is out of stock. Very disappointed as I loved the look of the vest

14.10.2022 - 10:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Proudlock, sorry to hear that ; did you get and keep the correct tension in width as well as in height? Read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

14.10.2022 - 13:24

country flag Catharina wrote:

De Soft Tweed staat er als alternatief bij, maar hiervan lijken minder bollen nodig te zijn terwijl er minder meters op een bol zitten. Een klant van ons had hierdoor te weinig. Kun je hiernaar kijken?

20.09.2022 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Catharina,

Dank voor het doorgeven! Er was inderdaad te weinig garen aangegeven voor de Soft Tweed en het is nu aangepast.

21.09.2022 - 19:37

country flag Bittan wrote:

Varför maskar man av vid halsen på bakstycket, men sätter maskorna på en tråd på framstycket?

20.02.2022 - 12:59