Maggie Lacey wrote:
Hi when working the yarn over increases on the raglan sleeve do I use the main colour or the colour of next fair isle stitch? So is the yarn over always in dark grey or sometimes in beige and white ? Hope this makes sense. Thank you
19.01.2024 - 15:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Lacey, always work the yarn over for the raglan increases with the back ground colour, on next round, work the yarn over with the colour shown in the diagram. Happy knitting!
19.01.2024 - 16:06Liv Aurora wrote:
Hej. 1)Hvis jeg skal starte med at strikke bærestykket først og dernæst strikke forhøjningen, passer det ikke overens med ærmerne. Forhøjningen kommer til at gå hen over et af ærmerne. 2) - eller skal jeg strikke forhøjningen først og dernæst sætte mærker til raglan udtagning? 3) Skal der ikke tages ud til raglan på retsiden mens man strikke forhøjningen? På forhånd tak.
11.12.2023 - 21:56Louise wrote:
Hej Drops Jeg har valgt at strikke Akranes i Nepal i stedet for Alaska. Samme garngruppe C. Jeg har lavet strikkeprøve i Nepal efter bandarolen, som siger pind 5. Men opskriften siger pind 5,5. Hvilken pind skal jeg vælge? Mvh Louise
14.11.2023 - 18:52DROPS Design answered:
Hej Louise, du skal vælge den pind som giver dig 16 masker på 10 cm ifølge opskriften (da vil størrelsen stemme med de mål du finder i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften) :)
16.11.2023 - 14:20Karin wrote:
Kan se flere skriver at garnmængden ikke passer, er det rettet eller er det stadig et problem jeg skal tage højde for ?
19.09.2023 - 22:37DROPS Design answered:
Hei Karin. 23.11.2021 la vi til en rettelse i oppskriften + en rød link (se nederst på oppskriften). Dersom de kommentarene du har lest før den datoen, er oppskriften rettet. mbh DROPS Design
26.09.2023 - 14:36Lea wrote:
Jeg har et spørgsmål: jeg har strikket alle 24 pinde første gang, der er 192 masker på pinden, som der skal. Men nu skal jeg til at gentage diagrammet i samme fremgangsmåde. Det passer med maskerne først, da A2b skal gentages yderligere 4 gange, men jeg kan ikke forstå A4, der er 13 masker i den første omgange, som ville gøre at omslaget lå midt i ærmet? Jeg er ny i at strikke efter diagram- er det mig der har misforstået noget? 😅 Håber i kan hjælpe ✨ Mvh Lea
22.07.2023 - 16:26DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lea Du skal ikke starte på 1. omgang av diagrammet igjen, men du skal fortsette mønstert på samme måte. Slik at når du skal fortsette med A.4 i høyden starter du med kast, så strikker du 37 rettmasker før du gjør et nytt kast. På neste omgang er det 39 rettmasker (A.4) mellom raglansøkningene (på ermet). På neste omgang økes det igjen og du strikker da A.4 slik: 1 kast, mønstret over 39 masker og avslutt med 1 kast. Når du øker på begynnelsen og slutten av A.4 vil det bli flere og flere masker mellom økningene, der mønstret strikker. mvh DROPS Design
27.07.2023 - 10:06Kärt Merilain wrote:
Eesti keelses tõlkes on jäänud välja see, et kaelust tehes tuleb kõigepealt kududa halli lõngaga soonikut 4cm. Ja alles siis hakata kuduma skeemi A1. Leidsin neef 4cm teistest keeltest pärast seda, kui olin juba kaeluse valesti kudunud. Vast saab mustris selle vea ära parandada?
24.03.2023 - 16:17Linda wrote:
Det står i str m at eg skal strikke 25 cm frahalskanten. Skal det vere fra halskantens start, brett, eller det halskanten slutter mot bærestykkw. Vart veldig usikker på kor eg skulle male frå…
06.01.2022 - 21:15DROPS Design answered:
Hei Linda, Du måler bærestykke fra merket du satte inn etter halsen. God fornøyelse!
07.01.2022 - 07:00Laila wrote:
Garnmængderne passer slet ikke.
22.11.2021 - 21:11Charlotte Mejlholm wrote:
Jeg havde ikke nok af farven natur. Jeg manglede til et helt ærme.
04.11.2021 - 15:09
Akranes |
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Knitted sweater for men with raglan in DROPS Alaska. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 208-4 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Patterns A.1 and A.6 are worked in rib. Patterns A.2 to A.5 are worked in stockinette stitch. INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 6.3. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. ELEVATION (back of neck): Skip this section if you do not want an elevation. Start from the wrong side with dark grey and purl 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches past the marker thread at the beginning of the round, turn, tighten the strand and knit 16-16-16-18-18-18 back. Turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-24-24-27-27-27, turn, tighten the strand and knit 32-32-32-36-36-36 back. Turn, tighten the strand and purl 40-40-40-45-45-45, turn, tighten the strand and knit 48-48-48-54-54-54 back. Turn, tighten the strand and purl to 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches past the marker thread. Move the marker thread to this point. Then work YOKE as described in the text. KNITTING TIP: To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern with several colors, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem. BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can use a ½ size larger needle. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together with dark grey (marker thread sits here), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 with dark grey and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. After the neck you can work an elevation at the back for a better fit. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same front and back – see description above. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. NECK: Cast on 76-80-80-88-88-92 stitches with short circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and off-white. Change to dark grey and knit 1 round. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”, then work A.1 in rib – TAKE CARE when reading the symbols. Knit 1 round with dark grey where you increase 12-8-8-12-12-12-8 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 88-88-88-100-100-100 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round. You can now work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – read description above or go straight to YOKE. YOKE: The first round is worked as follows: Work A.2a (= 8 stitches), A.2b over the next 12-12-12-18-18-18 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repeats of 6 stitches) and A.2c (= 9 stitches) (= back piece), work A.3 (= 2 stitches, raglan-line), A.4 (= 11 stitches, sleeve), A.3 (= 2 stitches, raglan-line), A.2a (= 8 stitches), A.2b over the next 12-12-12-18-18-18 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repeats of 6 stitches) and A.2c (= 9 stitches) (= front piece), work A.3 (= 2 stitches, raglan-line), A.4 (= 11 stitches, sleeve), A.3 (= 2 stitches, raglan-line). There are 96-96-96-108-108-108 stitches on the needle (= first increase to raglan is now completed). Continue this pattern onwards; i.e. increase 1 stitch on each side of A.2 and A.4 as shown in the diagrams (= a total of 8 stitches increased every 2nd round). Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time in height there are 192-192-192-204-204-204 stitches on the needle. Continue this pattern onwards; i.e. the pattern is repeated as shown in A.2/A.4. Diagram A.2b is worked 4 more times in width each time the 24 rows are repeated in height. Continue to increase until you have increased a total of 19-22-25-25-28-31 times on each side of A.2/A.4. When the last increase is finished there are 240-264-288-300-324-348 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 19-22-25-25-28-31 cm = 7 1/2”-8 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-11”-12 1/4” from the neck-edge. Continue the pattern but without further increases. When the piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4” from the neck-edge (making sure the next round is without pattern), work as follows: Work 70-76-82-88-94-103 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 48-54-60-60-66-66 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 72-78-84-90-96-108 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 48-54-60-60-66-66 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 2-2-2-2-2-5 stitches as before (= back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 156-168-180-192-216-240 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on the one side of the piece, in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it marks the beginning of the round. Work A.5 in the round (= 26-28-30-32-36-40 repeats of 6 stitches) – start on the right stitch and the right round in the diagram to continue the repeats of the pattern in both width and height. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm = 12 1/2”-12 1/2”-13”-13”-13”-13” from the division – adjust to after round 2 or 7 in A.5. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit 1 round with dark grey where you increase 28-32-36-36-40-48 stitches evenly spaced = 184-200-216-228-256-288 stitches. Work A.6 in rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When A.6 is finished bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl and dark grey – read BINDING-OFF TIP. SLEEVE: Place the 48-54-60-60-66-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-60-66-66-78-78 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread. Work A.5 in the round (= 9-10-11-11-13-13 repeats of 6 stitches) – start on the right stitch and the right round in the diagram to continue the repeats of the pattern in both width and height; but the first and last stitch on the round are always worked with dark grey (to give neat decreases mid under the sleeve). When the piece measures 1 cm = 3/8” from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 1-2-1-1-3-2 times = 52-56-64-64-72-74 stitches. Then decrease like this every 4-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/4”-7/8”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” a total of 8-9-12-12-14-15 times = 36-38-40-40-44-44 stitches left on the needles. Continue working until the sleeve measures 41-40-39-37-36-35 cm = 16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/4”-13 3/4” from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) – adjust to after round 2 or 7 in A.5. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit 1 round with dark grey where you increase 8-6-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly spaced = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Work A.6 in rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When A.6 is finished bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl and dark grey – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fold the neck to the wrong side and sew the cast-on edge down with off-white – sew with small, neat stitches on the inside of the sweater (make sure the seam does not show on the right side and the seam is not tight). |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Helle Espersen wrote:
Jeg forsøger at starte på at strikke drops 208-4. Jeg skal starte oppefra med 80 masker. 2 ret og 2 vrang. Jeg forstår ikke at jeg skal starte med 2 ret og slutte med 2 ret. Det vil sige at jeg får 4 ret samme sted i ribben. Kan det være rigtigt? Vh Helle Espersen
08.02.2024 - 12:21