DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 210-11
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-254
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagram A.1 and A.3 apply only to sizes S-L-XXL.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 164 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 27.33. 
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 26th and 27th stitch together.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle. Stitches are cast off for the armholes and the front and back pieces are finished separately.
The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle.
The pieces are sewn together to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 156-164-180-192-208-220 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Knit 1 round.
Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2).
When the rib measures 5 cm, knit 1 round where you decrease 6 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 150-158-174-186-202-214 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows.
*Knit 2-0-1-0-1-0, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) 0-1-0-1-0-1 time, A.2 (= 14 stitches) a total of 5-5-6-6-7-7 times, A.3 (= 5 stitches) 0-1-0-1-0-1 time, knit 3-0-2-0-2-0 *, work from *-* a total of 2 times.
Repeat this pattern upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the cast-on edge (there is approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm left; you can continue to desired length), cast off stitches for the armholes as follows:
Cast off the first 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches, work 67-71-77-83-89-95 stitches as before, cast off the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches, work 67-71-77-83-89-95 stitches as before and cast off the last 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches. Cut the strand.
Now finish the front and back pieces separately. Allow the stitches for the front piece to remain on the needle and work the back piece.

BACK PIECE.
Work the first 67-71-77-83-89-95 stitches as follows:
Continue with lace pattern over lace pattern (only where you have room for complete repeats of lace pattern in width), the remaining stitches are worked in stocking stitch and with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above – on each side of the piece.
When the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm from the cast-on edge, place the middle 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches on a thread for the neck on the next row from the right side (= 18-20-22-25-27-30 stitches on each shoulder).
If there is any lace pattern that has been started, finish the pattern and continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the piece. The shoulders are finished separately.
Cast off stitches for the neck on each row from the neck as follows:
Cast off 1 stitch 2 times = 16-18-20-23-25-28 stitches.
Cast off when the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from the cast-on edge.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Now work the remaining 67-71-77-83-89-95 stitches for the front piece in the same way as the back piece and until the piece measures 36-38-38-40-40-42 cm from the cast-on edge.
Place the middle 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches on a thread for the neck on the next row from the right side (= 25-27-29-32-34-37 stitches on each shoulder).
Each shoulder is finished separately.
Work pattern, stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the piece. The stitches which do not fit into the lace pattern in width are worked in stocking stitch.
Cast off stitches from the neck on each row from the neck as follows:
Cast off 2 stitches 3 times, then 1 stitch 3 times = 16-18-20-23-25-28 stitches.
When the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm from the cast-on edge, finish in height any lace pattern which has been started, then continue all stitches in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Cast off when the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from the cast-on edge.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 62-66-66-66-70-70 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1 * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 6 cm, knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 4-6-6-4-6-6 stitches evenly spaced = 58-60-60-62-64-64 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Now continue with pattern as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-1-1-2-3-3 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 a total of 4 times in width, 0-1-1-2-3-3 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat this pattern upwards. When the sleeve measures 16 cm, increase 0-0-1-1-1-1 stitch on each side of the piece, inside the 1 edge stitch (= 0-0-2-2-2-2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm a total of 0-0-1-2-3-4 times = 58-60-62-66-70-72 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 46-46-45-44-42-41 cm from the cast-on edge, insert 1 marker inside the 1 edge stitch at the beginning of the next row.
The marker shows where the bottom of the armhole starts.
Do not begin any more lace patterns; complete those you have already started. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Cast off when the sleeve measures 49-49-48-47-46-45 cm - read CASTING-OFF TIP!
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew the sleeve seams but leave a split of 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm at the top of the sleeve (i.e. from the marker on the sleeve).
Sew the split at the top of the sleeve to the bottom of the armhole. Then sew the sleeve into the body.

NECK:
Start on one of the shoulders and knit up from the right side approx. 80 to 100 stitches around the neck, inside the 1 edge stitch (including the stitches on the threads) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air – the number of stitches should be divisible by 4. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) in the round for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.11.2021
PATTERN: ... Diagram A.1 and A.3 apply only to sizes M-XL-XXXL.
Updated online: 18.01.2022
PATTERN:... Diagram A.1 and A.3 apply only to sizes S-L-XXL. + New diagrams A.1 and A.3.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Anna wrote:

Strikker str L og skjønner ikke helt diagrammet til bolen. Forstår jeg det slik : 4 m + (14 m x12) avslutt med 5 m? Men dette stemmer ikke. Fint om dere kunne hjelpe

28.04.2022 - 17:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anna, I størrelse L strikker du A.1 en gang (4 masker), A.2 6 ganger (14 x 6 = 84 masker), A.3 en gang (5 masker). Denne rekkefølgen gjentar du en gang til så mønster er likt foran og bak. Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!

29.04.2022 - 07:00

country flag Gunilla Skoogh wrote:

Hej! Har börjat med ärmen på denna tröja. Förstår inte hur många maskor jag skall sticka innan jag börjar med mönstret ( den "halva" hålgruppen) efter att jag gjort ökningarna innanför kantmaskan? Efter första ökningen har jag 64 maskor på storlek L o efter andra ökningen 66 maskor. Är det 9 maskor mellan "hålgrupperna" i A2? Mvh Gunilla

14.03.2022 - 07:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunilla. Ja det stämmer att det är 9 maskor mellan hålgrupperna (längst ner på hålgruppen). Du stickar in de ökade maskorna i mönstret. Mvh DROPS Design

16.03.2022 - 14:03

country flag Henny Oxholm wrote:

Det gjelder bolen: har bytta til rundpinne 5,5 og skal begynne på: Strikk «2-0-1-0-1-0 masker rett, A1 (4 masker) totalt 0-1-0-1-0-1 gang . A2 (14 masker) totalt 5-5-6-6-7-7 ganger, A3 (5 masker) totalt 0-1-0-1-0-1 gang, 3-0-2-0-2-0 masker rett», strikk fra «-« totalt 2 ganger. Det står rettelse at diagram A1 og A3 gjelder for M. Jeg skal strikke M og får ikke forklaringen over til å stemme. Trenger hjelp. Der jeg kjöpte garnet (Drops-forhandler) kunne ikke hjelpe meg!

05.01.2022 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Henny. Du ska sticka 1 + (14 (=A.2) x 6) + 2 och upprepa detta en gång till på varvet. Då stämmer det. A.1 och A.3 stickas alltså inte i storlek M, vi ska se över den förklaringen. Mvh DROPS Design

11.01.2022 - 13:23

country flag Jitka wrote:

Dobry den, nerozumim jak plest v kruhove rade velikost M, pro kterou plati pouze vzor A2. Pletu stale hladce ne zerzej, kdyz pletu do kruhu? Vzor A2 plati jen spodni cast obrazku? Vrchni cast neslozi motylka, kdyz pletu vel. M , tedy vynechavam A1 a A3?

06.04.2021 - 22:47

country flag Christine Vogel wrote:

I love this pattern! I do have a question about the back piece section. While working the shoulder pieces it says to bind off 1 stitch 2 times = 20 stitches (for M size). I’m not sure what this means. Based on the previous sentence, it sounds like this action would happen for each row closest to the neck but am still unclear about what the bind off 1 st 2 times means. Please clarify. Thank you!

24.02.2021 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Vogel, you are right, when working the shoulder separately after you have slipped the middle stitches for neck on a thread, you will cast off stitches at the beginning of the row starting from neck towards shoulder and this will be worked 2 times (= over 4 rows : 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows starting from the neck towars shoulder). Happy knitting!

25.02.2021 - 07:21

country flag Carmel wrote:

Très joli modèle, mais je viens de défaire le dos et devant jusqu'à la division pour l'encolure parce que beaucoup trop large.Si ça peut aider.

14.02.2021 - 09:34

country flag Aimee wrote:

Greetings from the US! Would you recommend wet blocking before or after assembling the sleeves to the body? Thank you in advance!

26.01.2021 - 03:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aimee, it's a personnal choice, some people never block, some people block before sewing and some after sewing... Just make as you feel it right for you. Enjoy!

26.01.2021 - 09:19

country flag Decourty Monique wrote:

Bonjour, Es ce possible de faire un e vos modèles dont celui là avec des aiguilles droites? Je n'arrive vraiment pas a utilisé des aiguilles circulaire. Bien a vous. Monique

08.05.2020 - 10:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Decourty, la plupart de nos modèles peuvent facilement d'adapter sur aiguilles droites (plus d'infos ici). Bon tricot!

08.05.2020 - 11:00

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les explications du devant « Rabattre à partir de l'encolure tous les rangs à partir de l'encolure: 3 fois 2 mailles, 3 fois 1 maille = 16-18-20-23-25-28 mailles. » merci pour votre aide. Cordialement

21.04.2020 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, quand vous avez mis en attente les mailles de l'encolure, vous terminez chaque épaule séparément, et, au début de chaque rang qui commence côté encolure (sur l'endroit pour le côté droit/sur l'envers pour le côté gauche), on va rabattre des mailles supplémentaires soit 2 mailles 3 fois de suite (= 3 fois tous les 2 rangs si vous préférez) et 1 seule maille 3 fois de suite (1 maille tous les 2 rangs). N'hésitez pas à nous dire si c'est encore flou. Bon tricot!

22.04.2020 - 08:12

country flag Ana wrote:

Diagram korr. 1) rett fra retten, vrang fra vrangen 2) 2m r sammen

11.04.2020 - 19:34