Evening Glow |
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Knitted jumper in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and short sleeves with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 212-1 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly): To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 23. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 23rd stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. To decrease in this example knit every 22nd and 23rd stitch together. PATTERN: See diagram A.1 (raglan line) and A.2 (pattern on sleeves). RAGLAN: Increase 1 stitch for raglan in each side of the 10 stitches in A.1 in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased in total on increase round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch on front and back piece and in A.2 on sleeves. DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, purl 2 together, purl 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), purl 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased). INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body): Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. CAST-OFF TIP: To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches). ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round from the side, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. NECK EDGE: Cast on 92-96-100-106-110-114 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Sky. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) for 3 cm. When rib is done, knit 1 round while increasing 4-8-8-6-2-6 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 96-104-108-112-112-120 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of row (= mid front). Measure yoke from this marker. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 round (knit all yarn overs twisted). Then work yoke as explained below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! YOKE: Insert 4 marker threads in piece as explained below (insert marker threads without working the stitches): Count 14-16-17-18-18-20 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 20 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 28-32-34-36-36-40 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 20 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch. 14-16-17-18-18-20 stitches remain on back piece after last marker thread. On next round begin pattern as explained below, AT THE SAME TIME increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above. I.e. work next round as follows: Work 9-11-12-13-13-15 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1 (= 10 stitches – marker thread is in the middle of A.1), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.2 (= 10 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1 (= 10 stitches – marker thread is in the middle of A.1), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work 18-22-24-26-26-30 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1 (= 10 stitches – marker thread is in the middle of A.1), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.2 (= 10 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1 (= 10 stitches – marker thread is in the middle of A.1), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work 9-11-12-13-13-15 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Continue pattern like this, and increase for raglan every other round 23-25-29-33-37-40 times in total (including increases explained on first round. NOTE! Work the increased stitches on sleeves in pattern until there are 5-5-7-7-7-7 repetitions in width over sleeve (see star in diagram that marks 1 repetition), then purl the next increased stitches until finished measurements (A.2 shows sleeve with all increases in size S). After last increase for raglan there are 280-304-340-376-408-440 stitches on needle. Work without increases until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from marker by the neck. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work last round as follows: Work 40-44-49-54-60-66 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), slip the next 60-64-72-80-84-88 stitches on 1 stitch holder, cast on 8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 80-88-98-108-120-132 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 60-64-72-80-84-88 stitches on 1 stitch holder, cast on 8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 40-44-49-54-60-66 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. BODY: = 176-192-212-232-256-280 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side on body, in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under each sleeve= 88-96-106-116-128-140 stitches between marker threads. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase and decrease later in the sides on body. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3 cm 4 times in total in each side = 160-176-196-216-240-264 stitches. Work until piece measures 16 cm from division. On next round increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½ cm 6 times in total in each side = 184-200-220-240-264-288 stitches. Work until piece measures 33 cm from division (approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length). Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 round while increasing 36-40-44-48-52-58 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 220-240-264-288-316-346 stitches. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder and down. SLEEVES: Slip the 60-64-72-80-84-88 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4 mm, and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-72-80-88-92-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under sleeve. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and continue pattern in the round with A.2 over the middle 46-46-64-64-64-64 stitches, and purl the remaining 22-26-16-24-28-32 stitches mid under sleeve. When sleeve measures 2 cm from division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1-½-½ cm 5-6-8-10-12-13 times in total = 58-60-64-68-68-70 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 17-15-14-12-11-9 cm from division (approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke. Knit 1 round while decreasing 6-6-8-10-8-8 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (53)
Mette wrote:
Jeg vil lave en strikkeprøve på garnet. Der står ikke hvilken pind strikkeprøven skal laves i?
04.03.2021 - 22:19DROPS Design answered:
Hej Mette, Vi har brugt pind nr 4 til det glatstrikkede :)
05.03.2021 - 08:11Anni wrote:
Guten Morgen liebes Team, meine Frage greift noch mal Frage/ Antwort von Clara auf. Für mich ist auch noch nicht eindeutig klar, ob die Umschläge , die anschließend dem Muster A2 zugehören, direkt laut Muster abgestrickt werden. Also bspw. wie dargestellt „links“ in der zweiten Musterrunde? Hier gilt also nicht, dass Raglanzunahmen immer rechts verschränkt abgestrickt werden? Viele Dank vorab für Ihre Hilfe!
04.03.2021 - 08:38DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anni, die Umschläge, die im A.2 gezeichnet sind werden immer rechts bei der nächsten Runden gestrickt (= die gehören zum Lochmuster), die Umschläge, die zum Raglanzunehmen gestrickt sind, werden entweder links oder rechts verschränkt gestrickt, dh bei der 2. Runde stricken Sie diese Umschlage beidseiting von A.2 links verschränkt. Diese Zunahmen können Sie immer rechts verschränkt beid er nächsten Runde, aber dann sollen Sie diese Maschen entweder rechts oder links bzw im Muster (= siehe Diagram) stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
04.03.2021 - 11:31Ute Ortland wrote:
Liebes Team, ich stricke für XL und bin bei der Passe beim ersten Muster Vorderteil. Da soll ich 26 M. Stricken, dann A1, wobei der Markierungsfaden in der Mitte A.1 sein soll. Ich habe aber noch 9 M übrig, ist also nicht in der Mitte. Was mache ich falsch? Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe
08.02.2021 - 10:22DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Ortland, in XL stricken Sie so die 112 M: 13 M (Halb-Rückenteil), A.1 (=10 M), A.2 (= 10 M), A.1 (= 10 M), 26 M (Vorderteil), A.1 (= 10 M), A.2 (10 M), A.1 (10 M), 13 M (Halb-Rückenteil) - gleichzeitig nehmen Sie für den Raglan beiseitig von A.1. Hoffentlich kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
08.02.2021 - 11:10Clara wrote:
Liebes Team, ich habe eine Frage, Bezug nehmend auf die Frage von Magdalena am 26.01.2020: Wird jeder Umschlag in der Raglanzunahme in der Folgerunde erstmal rechts verschränkt gestrickt und dann erst in der übernächsten Runde ins Muster eingearbeitet, also dann als rechts oder links gestrickt?
13.01.2021 - 21:45DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Clara, also ja genau, nur werden die Raglanzunahmen beim Vorder- und Rückenteil einfach glatt rechts gestrickt, und bei den Ärmeln werden Sie entweder rechts oder links, je nach A.2 gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
14.01.2021 - 07:44Francesca wrote:
Hello, this is my first work with raglan and I have a doubt about it. Usually the patterns (e.g. bs-152) say to "Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker" for the raglan in the back and front piece. Here it doesn't state that. So I wonder, is it always 22 knit stitch+A1+A2+A1 at each round or do I have to knit until the marker (i.e. more than 22 stitches)? Thank you!
16.12.2020 - 10:29DROPS Design answered:
Dear Francesca, in this pattern you will increase on each side of A.1 - these 10 stitches are for raglan lines and you will then increase after these 10 sts A.1 at the beg of front piece/sleeve/back piece and before these 10 sts A.1 at the end of front piece/sleeve/back piece. You will then have more stitches to work A.1 on next round. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!
16.12.2020 - 13:50Charlotte wrote:
Bonjour Est-ce que l’on peut faire ce modèle en Puna ou lima ? Cordialement
05.12.2020 - 20:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Charlotte, vous pouvez remplacer DROPS Sky (1 fil) par DROPS Lima (1 fil). Pour savoir combien de grammes de laine, essayez notre convertisseur ICI. Bon tricot!
06.12.2020 - 13:04Laura wrote:
Buongiorno, sto realizzando il modello. Sono al giro 11 dello schema a2.. La fine della riga sono due maglie assieme e un gettato. Ok. Subito dopo ho un gettato x aumentare il raglan.. Cosa si deve fare? 2 gettate vicine ( in questo caso come vanno lavorate il giro successivo?) o una solo? Grazie.
04.12.2020 - 12:04DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Laura, deve lavorare i due gettati sul giro successivo come li lavorerebbe secondo il modello. Provi a vedere se questi video la possono aiutare. . Buon lavoro!
04.12.2020 - 12:37Martine wrote:
Jeg har strikket første omgang med diagrammer og lurer på hvordan kastene som kommer mellom A1 og A2 skal strikkes? I diagrammet står det vrang over kast, samtidig står det at økningen til Raglan skal strikkes vridd rett. Blir feil hver gang!
27.11.2020 - 10:18DROPS Design answered:
Hej Martine. De kast du ökar på hver side av de 10 m i A.1 (dvs ökning till raglan) ska stickas vridd rett på neste omgang för att det ikke ska bli hull. De kast du gör i diagram A.1 och A.2 stickas rett på neste omgang för att det ska bli hull. Mvh DROPS Design
27.11.2020 - 13:44Birgit Dirksen wrote:
Jeg går i stå på første pind i diagrammet str S, bærestykket hvor jeg strikker 9 masker ret følger A.1. Når jeg så har strikket A.2, har jeg 6 masker tilbage inden jeg skal strikke diagram A.1 igen, for mig at se har jeg 1 maske for meget, da raglan ikke bliver midt i masketråd. Håber på hjælp. Vh Birgit Dirksen.
15.10.2020 - 17:18DROPS Design answered:
Hei Birgit. Strikk 9 masker av de 14 maskene frem til 1. merketråd, 1 kast (=1. økning), strikk ½ A.1 (= 5 masker), nå skal du være ved 1. merketråd. Strikk 2.del av A.1, 1 kast (2.økning). Du har nå strikket 5 masker av de 20 erm maskene. Strikk A.2 (= 10 masker), 1 kast (3. økning) og 5 masker av A.1. Du er nå ved 2. merketråd. Strikk 2. del av A.1, 1 kast (4. økning). Strikk 18 masker rett (= forstykket), 1 kast (5. økning), strikk A.1 (3. merketråd er i midten), 1 kast (6. økning), strikk A.2, 1 kast (7. økning), strikk A.1 (4. merketråd er i midten), 1 kast (8. økning), strikk 9 masker og du har strikket 1. omgang. God Fornøyelse!
19.10.2020 - 11:27Christine ADAM wrote:
Bonjour, Pourquoi tous les nouveaux modèles que vous présentez sont tricotés avec des aiguilles circulaires ? N'est-il pas possible d'avoir les 2 versions ? (aiguilles circulaires ou aiguilles droites) Personnellement, je n'aime pas tricoter en rond... Merci de votre réponse. Christine
22.07.2020 - 22:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Adam, l'utilisation des aiguilles circulaires est une habitude notamment scandinave - vous trouverez ici, comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. N'hésitez pas à suivre nos vidéos pour apprendre à les utiliser, nombreuses sont celles qui ont finalement réussi à les "dompter". Bon tricot!
29.07.2020 - 09:06