DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Evening Glow Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with raglan, short sleeves and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 212-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-075
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 19, brick

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS, Coconut NO 516: 6-6-7-7-8-8 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

LEFT BAND (= 6 stitches):
Work as follows from the right side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue with garter stitch over garter stitch stocking stitch over stocking stitch.

RIGHT BAND (= 6 stitches):
Work as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 2 stitches in garter stitch.
Continue with garter stitch over garter stitch and stocking stitch over stocking stitch.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 105 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 12 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches with number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 3) = 31. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 31st stitch (do not increase on the bands; they are worked as before). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together each 30th and 31st stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 (raglan-line) and A.2 (pattern on sleeves). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 10 stitches in A.1, in each transition between front/back pieces and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on an increase-row). Increase by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch on the front/back pieces and in A.2 on the sleeves.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, purl 2 together, purl 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), purl 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the wrong side!
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
On the next row (right side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and work the last 2 stitches in garter stitch. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-6-6-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 9-9½-8½-9-8-8 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 105-109-113-119-123-127 stitches (including 6 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work LEFT BAND (= 6 stitches) – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish by working RIGHT BAND (= 6 stitches) – read description above.
Continue this rib for 3 cm, remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above. NOTE: The bands are worked as described above to finished length.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side (bands worked as before) where you increase 3-7-7-5-1-5 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 108-116-120-124-124-132 stitches. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke will be measured from this marker. 
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and purl 1 row from the wrong side with 6 band stitches on each side as before (yarn overs are purled twisted).
Then work the yoke as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as described below (without working the stitches):
Count 20-22-23-24-24-26 stitches (= left front piece), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 20 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 28-32-34-36-36-40 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 20 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch. There are 20-22-23-24-24-26 stitches on the right needle after the last thread.

On the next row begin the pattern as described below, AT THE SAME TIME increase to RAGLAN – read description above. Work the next row as follows from the right side:
Work 6 band stitches as before, 9-11-12-13-13-15 stitches in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch to raglan, work A.1 (= 10 stitches with marker thread in the middle), increase 1 stitch to raglan, work A.2 (= 10 stitches), increase 1 stitch to raglan, work A.1 (= 10 stitches with marker thread in the middle), increase 1 stitch to raglan, work 18-22-24-26-26-30 stitches in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch to raglan, work A.1 (= 10 stitches with marker thread in the middle), increase 1 stitch to raglan, work A.2 (= 10 stitches), increase 1 stitch to raglan, work A.1 (= 10 stitches with marker thread in the middle), increase 1 stitch to raglan, work 9-11-12-13-13-15 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 6 band stitches as before.

Continue this pattern and increase to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 23-25-29-33-37-40 times in height including the increase on the first row. NOTE: The increased stitches on the sleeves are worked into the pattern until there are a total of 5-5-7-7-7-7 repeats in width across the sleeve, then the next increased stitches are purled from the right side and knitted from the wrong side to finished length (A.2 shows the sleeves with all the increases in size S).
After the last increase to raglan there are 292-316-352-388-420-452 stitches on the needle.
Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck.
Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves by working the next row as follows: Work 46-50-55-60-66-72 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 60-64-72-80-84-88 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 80-88-98-108-120-132 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 60-64-72-80-84-88 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 46-50-55-60-66-72 stitches as before (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 188-204-224-244-268-292 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 50-54-59-64-70-76 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 88-96-106-116-128-140 stitches between marker threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when decreasing and increasing in the sides.
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 6 band stitches on each side towards mid front as before.
When the piece measures 3 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3 cm a total of 4 times on each side = 172-188-208-228-252-276 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 16 cm from the division. On the next row from the wrong side increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½ cm a total of 6 times on each side = 196-212-232-252-276-300 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 33 cm from the division (there is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side (bands worked as before) and increase at the same time 37-41-45-49-53-57 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 233-253-277-301-329-357 stitches.
Work rib as follows from the wrong side: 6 band stitches as before, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 6 band stitches as before. Continue this rib for 3 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 60-64-72-80-84-88 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 68-72-80-88-92-96 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start the round at the marker thread and continue the pattern in the round with A.2 over the middle 46-46-64-64-64-64 stitches on top of the sleeve and the remaining 22-26-16-24-28-32 stitches purled.
When the sleeve measures 2 cm from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1-½-½ cm a total of 5-6-8-10-12-13 times = 58-60-64-68-68-70 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 17-15-14-12-11-9 cm from the division (there is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 row where you decrease 6-6-8-10-8-8 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 20-18-17-15-14-12 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over (leaves a hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = knit 1 in stitch under the next stitch
symbols = 1 repeat in width
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Jennifer Carvalho wrote:

After the three increase stitches, there are 108 stitches. The band stitches being 12 altogether leaves 96 stitches to insert the four markers....20+20+28+20+20 ends up with 108 stitches (which is the total number of stitches that includes the band stitches). I am short 12 stitches. Where did i go wrong? Am i missing something? Thank you

12.12.2023 - 03:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Carvalho, the 6 band stitches are included in the 20 sts for each front piece, so that you have: 20 sts (left front piece, including 6 front band sts), 20 sts (sleeve), 28 sts (back piece), 20 sts (sleeve) and 20 sts (right front piece, including 6 front band sts). Happy knitting!

12.12.2023 - 09:17

country flag Jennifer Carvalho wrote:

After the three increase stitches, there are 108 stitches. The band stitches being 12 altogether leaves 96 stitches to insert the four markers....20+20+28+20+20 ends up with 108 stitches (which is the total number of stitches that includes the band stitches). I am short 12 stitches. Where did i go wrong? Am i missing something? Thank you

12.12.2023 - 03:29

country flag Francesca wrote:

Bjr, en taille S quand on arrive à la séparation à19cm, pouvez-vous me dire combien de maille je dois avoir pour les devant, Manche et dos s'il vous plaît? Merci Franseca

23.12.2022 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francesca, vous avez augmenté 23 fois pour le raglan, vous aurez: 20+23 = 43 m pour le devant gauche/le devant droit; 20+(23x2)=66 m pour chaque manche et 28+(23x2)=74 m pour le dos soit 43+66+74+66+43=292 mailles. Bon tricot!

02.01.2023 - 08:31

country flag ESTER MARTINEZ wrote:

Gracias. Me di cuenta después que habia leido los puntos de la talla S. Gracias por la rapidez

12.12.2022 - 07:47

country flag ESTER MARTINEZ wrote:

Voy a tejer la manga. No entiendo como hacerlo. Porque si tejo 46 puntos en A.2 y luego 22 en punto revés. Son 68 puntos. Si tengo 72 puntos en la aguja. ¿Que hago con los otros 4 ?

08.12.2022 - 08:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ester, qué talla estás trabajando? Para la talla S, tienes 68 pts y trabajas 46 en A.2 y 22 pts de revés = 68 pts. Para la talla M, tienes 72 pts y trabajar 46 en A.2 y 26 de revés = 72 pts.

11.12.2022 - 20:51

country flag Chris wrote:

Bonjour pouvez vous me dire ce que je fais quand j'ai fini d'augmenter pour le raglan, dois-je continuer à augmenter pour le dos ou juste continuer jusqu'à 19cm sans aucune augmentation ? Merci pour votre éclairage ! Bien cordialement

02.08.2022 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chris, lorsque vous avez terminé les augmentations, vous avez 292 mailles (en taille S), si votre ouvrage ne mesure pas encore 19 cm à partir du col, tricotez comme avant: la bordure des devants, les devants et le dos en jersey et les points fantaisie aussi comme avant, mais vous ne faites plus de jetés pour le raglan de chaque côté de A.1. Bon tricot!

02.08.2022 - 17:21

country flag Monika wrote:

Hallo, können Sie mir bitte helfen? Ich bin jetzt mit dem Körper fertig und frage mich, wie ich das Muster, das zuerst in Reihen gestrickt wurde, jetzt in Runden weiterstricke? Nach der Strickschrift kann ich ja nicht gehen, da die Rückreihen jetzt anders gestrickt werden müssen. Wie mache ich das richtig? Danke, Monika

05.03.2022 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, bei den Ärmeln lesen Sie das Diagram immer rechts nach links, und die Maschen werden dann so gestrickt, wie sie von der Vorderseihte (bei Hinreihen) aussehen sollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.03.2022 - 08:35

country flag Chris wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai du mal à comprendre le rangs 2, je suis toujours décalée. Pouvez vous me dire si je me trompe: 6m bordure , 9 m envers, 1 m Envers torse, A1envers= 1m envers, 3 endroits, 2 envers 3 endroit, 1 envers 1 envers torse A2envers= 1 endroit, 1 envers 3 endroit 2 envers 3 endroits 1 envers 1 endroit 1 envers torse Etc.... Merci pour vos explications car ce modèle est vraiment superbe mais je débute avec un diagramme 🙃.

26.01.2022 - 09:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chris, les augmentations des raglans se tricotent soit en jersrey = devants et dos), soit dans A.2 pour les manches, autrement dit, au 2ème rang sur l'envers, les augmentations figurent dans A.2 soit: 1 m torse à l'end (= le jeté = 1ère m de A.2 sur l'envers), 1 m env, 3 m end, 2 m env, 3 m end, 1 m env, 1 m torse à l'endroit (= le jeté = dernière m de A.2 sur l'envers). Ainsi, vous ne devriez plus être décalée. Bon tricot!

26.01.2022 - 09:51

country flag Zornitsa wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei chiedere il numero di maglie iniziali (CO), in questo caso 109 (collo) includono già i 6 da ogni lato o le dobbiamo calcolare (109 + 12) ed aggiungerle noi? Grazie se mi risponderete e complimenti, i vostri schemi sono tutti bellissimi.

12.10.2021 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Zornitsa, il numero di maglie da avviare è già comprensivo delle maglie del bordo, come indicato nel testo. Buon lavoro!

13.10.2021 - 18:19

country flag Estelle wrote:

Wie viel Garn benötigt man für diese Jacke, wenn man lange Ärmel stricken möchte? Reichen zusätzliche 50g?

25.07.2021 - 20:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Estelle, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.07.2021 - 09:05