DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.13 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.17€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Cheers to Life

Knitted jumper with round yoke in 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and 1 strand Glitter. The piece is worked top down in English rib. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 212-28
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-131
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
225-250-275-300-325-375 g colour 20, pink sand
And use:
DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2-2-2-2-3-3 spools no 01, gold

KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 24 rows (12 rows counted in knitted stitches) in height with English rib and 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS Plus stitch markers.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.13 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.17€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 55 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 7) = 7.85. 
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 7th and 8th stitch together.

ENGLISH RIB WITH YARN OVERS – in the round:
ROUND 1: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, work from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 2: * Purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 3: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch *, work from *-* to end of round.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked on a round where yarn overs and slipped stitches are knitted together.
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS IN THE STITCHES WITH PURPLE MARKERS:
Work 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn over and move the marker as follows: Knit together the yarn over and stitch, move the purple marker to this stitch (i.e. stitch on right needle), but do not slip the stitch and yarn-over off the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the stitch and yarn over 1 more time = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased). The marker sits in the first increased stitch (= knitted stitch).
The next time you increase, work in the stitch with the marker.
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS IN THE STITCHES WITH GREEN MARKERS:
Work 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn over and move the marker as follows: Knit together the yarn over and stitch, but do not slip the stitch and yarn-over off the left needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the stitch and yarn over 1 more time and move the green marker to this stitch = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).
The marker sits in the last increased stitch (= knitted stitch).
The next time you increase, work in the stitch with the marker.
On the next round work the 3 stitches into the English rib pattern as follows: Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl the yarn over, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl.
Then continue in English rib.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle from mid-back and top down. Increases are worked for body and sleeves mid-front/back and mid-top of sleeves. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 55-55-58-60-62-65 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm and 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk and 1 strand Glitter.
Knit 2 rounds.
Knit 1 round and decrease 7-7-10-4-6-9 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 48-48-48-56-56-56 stitches. Change to circular needle size 8 mm.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-back); the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Now insert 8 markers in the piece as follows:
Using 2 different coloured markers.
Knit 3-3-3-3-5-5, insert 1 purple marker in the next stitch and then knit this stitch,
* knit 5-5-3-5-3-3, insert 1 green marker in the next stitch and then knit this stitch, knit 5-5-7-7-9-9, insert 1 purple marker in the next stitch and then knit this stitch *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, knit 5-5-3-5-3-3, insert 1 green marker in the next stitch, knit this stitch and then knit 2-2-4-4-4-4.
The 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches between the green and the purple markers are the stitches mid front, mid back and on top of each sleeve.
You will increase in the stitches with markers later.
Now continue with ENGLISH RIB WITH YARN OVERS – read description above.
On round 3 in the pattern start to increase as follows:
Increase 2 stitches in each knitted stitch with markers (= a total of 16 stitches increased) and move the markers each time you increase – read INCREASE TIP!
In other words you increase stitches before the green markers and increase after the purple markers.
The 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches between the markers remain the same, the stitches increased are increased on each side of these stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Increase like this every 6th round a total of 2-3-5-4-5-7 times, then every 8th round a total of 2-2-2-3-3-2 times and every 10th round a total of 2-2-1-1-1-1 times = 144-160-176-184-200-216 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 23-23-25-26-28-30 cm from the marker mid-back.
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 23-25-27-28-31-34 stitches, place the next 27-31-35-37-39-41 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 5 stitches under the sleeve, work the next 45-49-53-55-61-67 stitches, place the next 27-31-35-37-39-41 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 5 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 22-24-26-27-30-33 stitches.

BODY:
= 100-108-116-120-132-144 stitches. Continue in the round with English rib. On the first round work the 5 new stitches under the sleeve without working the stitches together with yarn overs.
When the piece measures 27-29-29-30-30-30 cm from the division, knit 3 rounds over all stitches. Cast off – read CASTING-OFF TIP.

SLEEVES:
Place the 27-31-35-37-39-41 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 8 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 32-36-40-42-44-46 stitches. Continue in the round with English rib as before. On the first round work the 5 new stitches under the sleeve without working the stitches together with yarn overs.
When the piece measures 36-37-36-35-34-33 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body, knit 3 rounds over all stitches. Then cast off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Cheers to Life

Ida, Germany

Cheers to Life

JoeJ5, France

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 212-28

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Camilla Steiro wrote:

Det står i oppskriften under HELPATENT helt nederst: "Gjenta 2. og 3. omgang". Er det bare en gang, eller skal resten av genseren strikkes med bare omgangene 2 og 3? Altså skal 1. omgang aldri strikkes igjen?

19.03.2024 - 07:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla, 1. omgang i patenten strikkes kun en gang :)

19.03.2024 - 15:10

country flag Mel wrote:

When you start working the English rib, I gain 24 stitches before I have worked any of the actual increases. Is this correct and if not, how do I prevent this? Thanks.

07.04.2023 - 10:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mel, the yarn overs worked in the English rib pattern don't count as new stitches, since they will eventually be worked together with their respective stitches. So, you shouldn't have any real increased stitches before starting to increase on round 3. Happy knitting!

08.04.2023 - 20:50

country flag Claire wrote:

Bonjour Par quel fil pourrais je remplacer le fil glitter , je n’aime pas le brillant. Merci d’avance

21.09.2022 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire, vous pouvez simplement le supprimer, Glitter est un fil très fin qui ne change pas la tension du tout. Bon tricot!

22.09.2022 - 09:31

country flag Jeanette Sørensen wrote:

Hej. Jeg strikker str s. Der står at jeg efter indtagning i hals har 48 masker. Så skal jeg tage 8 masker ud på hver 6 omg 2 gange, på hver 8 omg 2 gange og på hver 10 omg 2 gange. Det er 48 nye masker 6*8. Så ender jeg på 96. Er de 144 jeg skulle ende med at have så inklusiv omslag?

18.12.2021 - 08:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jeanette. Du starter med 48 masker, så øker du med 16 masker hver gang det er en økeomgang. Du øker 6 ganger (6 ganger x 16 masker = 96 økte masker). Da blir det 48 masker + 96 økte masker = 144 masker. (Omslagene til patentmasken telles ikke som en egne maske, de tilhører patentmasken). mvh DROPS Design

21.12.2021 - 10:24

country flag JoeJ5 wrote:

Bonjour En ce qui concerne les rangs d'augmentation CÔTES ANGLAISES AVEC JETÉS , il est écrit : "Tricoter 3 fois la maille et son jeté" mais dans l'explication et la vidéo la maille et son jeté sont tricotés deux fois ! que dois-je faire. Merci

19.03.2021 - 17:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour JoeJ5, dans la même maille vous allez: tricoter cette maille + faire 1 jeté + tricoter à nouveau cette maille, vous aurez 3 mailles sur l'aiguille droite et aurez maintenant augmenté 2 mailles. Bon tricot!

22.03.2021 - 07:13

country flag Janni Kristensen wrote:

Har set video og flytter som anvist i opskriften

05.03.2021 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janni, da burde det også se ud som i videoen... husker du at du ikke skal tælle omslagene med som masker?

08.03.2021 - 11:43

country flag Janni Kristensen wrote:

Der står i opskriften der skal blive med med at være 5-5-7-7-9-9 masker mellem mærkerne i mit tilfælde 7. Men når jeg starter på helpatent med omslag får jeg 11 masker grundet omslaget. Hvad pokker gør jeg galt?

28.02.2021 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janni, kan det være fordi du glemmer at flytte mærket? Eller har du set videoen nederst i opskriften?

05.03.2021 - 10:05

country flag May wrote:

...vervolg: Of moet je op deze manier de naalden in patentsteek breien: Naald 3 meerderen // 2 toeren breien // Naald 6 meerderen // 5 toeren breien // Naald 12 meerderen // 7 toeren breien // Naald 8 meerderen // 7 toeren breien // Naald 16 meerderen // 9 toeren breien // Naald 10 meerderen // 9 toeren breien // Naald 20 meerderen // verder breien tot 23 cm (dus weer "beginnen" bij naald 5 toeren breien // Naald 6 meerderen ?? )

09.02.2021 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag May,

De meerderingen worden gemaakt in een naald waarbij de omslag en averechte steek recht samen worden gebreid, zoals ook bovenaan aangegeven bij de instructies hoe je de meerderingen voor en na de markeerders maakt. Als er staat 'meerder zo iedere 6e' naald, dan wordt daarmee bedoeld dat je om de 6 naalden meerdert. Dit doe je in maat s 2 keer, dus dan zit je op 12 naalden. Vervolgens meerder je om de 10 naalden, ook weer 2 keer in maat S, dus dan komen er 20 naalden bij. Je bent dan in totaal 32 naalden verder. Als je nog niet op 23 cm bent brei je verder tot die hoogte in patentsteek zonder verdere meerderingen.

23.02.2021 - 14:18

country flag May wrote:

Hi, dank voor uw antwoord. Er wordt dus steeds gemeerderd in naald 2 van de patentsteek, AVERECHT. Maar in de video wordt steeds gemeerderd in de naald waar RECHT wordt gebreid (naald 3 en naald 6 in patentsteek)...? Kunt u mij vertellen, voor maat S, op welke naalden van de patentsteek ik steeds moet meerderen? Is dit 3,6,8,10,12, en 16 om tot 23cm (144steken) te komen?

09.02.2021 - 12:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag May,

Excuses, ik heb het verkeerd aangegeven, de meerderingen worden gemaakt op een naald waar de omslag en de averechte steek recht (en niet averecht) samen worden gebreid. Ik zal dit ook nog even corrigeren in het andere antwoord (voor andere lezers). Hopelijk kom je er nu uit waar je moet meerderen. Voor maat S is het op naald 6,12, 20, 28, 38, 48. Je hebt dan 144 steken en je breit evt. verder tot het werk 23 cm meet (dus zonder verdere meerderingen).

27.03.2021 - 16:02

country flag Su wrote:

I have a question about yoke increases. It says to increase every 6th, 8th, 10th rounds. By rounds, do you mean the actual # of rounds or the # of knit stitches in English rib? The video made it look like the latter. She did 10 actual rounds (= 5 English rib knits) before another increase. I followed this but it is wrong. I need to split for sleeves before I can finish all the increases. The instruction and the video are not very clear. Thank you.

08.02.2021 - 03:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Su, you have first to increase on every 6th round, ie work 1 round with increases, 5 rounds without increase (number of rounds worked = 3 english rib in height), ie count the number of rounds you work - Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

08.02.2021 - 10:52