DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 61.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

True North

Knitted long jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knitted with moss stitch, cables and pockets. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 206-25
DROPS design: Pattern sk-052
Yarn group C + B
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 03, light beige
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
225-250-275-300-325-375 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for cables and double moss stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 61.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side!
Work jacket in double moss stitch with cable mid back and a cable edge in each side along mid front. Work cable edges mid front over the outermost 12 stitches. To make the cable edge full and rolling do not work any edge stitches at the edge (i.e. work outermost stitch in A.3 and A.4 as a normal stitch from both right side and wrong side).

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 83 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 6 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 15.4.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 15th and 16th stitch. Do not increase over the 3 edge stiches in each side. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If decreasing knit alternately approx. every 14th and 15th stitch and every 15th and 16th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves in size L, XL, XXL and XXXL):
Decrease 1 stitch after 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Knit 2 together.
Decrease 1 stitch before 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain on needle, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece in parts back and forth on circular needle. Work front and back piece bottom up. Sleeve is worked top down. Work pockets separately and sew on when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 83-87-95-99-107-115 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Sky + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, knit 1 and finish with 3 edge stitches on needle in garter stitch. Continue rib like this until 5 rows rib have been worked in total. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work 3 edge stitches in each side in garter stitch) - AT THE SAME TIME increase 5 stitches evenly on this row - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 88-92-100-104-112-120 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm.
Now work pattern from right side as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over the next 30-32-36-38-42-46 stitches (= 15-16-18-19-21-23 repetitions of 2 stitches), work A.2 (= 22 stitches), work A.1 over the next 30-32-36-38-42-46 stitches and finish with 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 57-58-59-60-61-62 cm, insert 1 marker in each side. Markers indicate armholes. When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm, decrease 6 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP) over the middle 12 stitches = 82-86-94-98-106-114 stitches. On next row cast off the middle 12 stitches in all sizes for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue pattern and cast off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue A.1 with 1 stitch in garter stitch towards the neck and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side until piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm. Knit 1 row from wrong side over all stitches. Loosely cast off by knitting from right side. Back piece measures approx. 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm from shoulder and down. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 47-49-53-55-59-63 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Sky + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from the right side (i.e. from mid front): * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain on row and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side (it is correct that first stitch towards mid front is worked in stocking stitch and not in garter stitch – read PATTERN). Continue rib like this until 5 rows rib have been worked in total.
Purl 1 row from wrong side (work 3 edge stitches towards the side in garter stitch) - AT THE SAME TIME increase 3 stitches evenly on this row = 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Now work pattern from right side as follows (= from mid front): Work A.3 (= 17 stitches) – read explanation in PATTERN, work A.1 over the next 30-32-36-38-42-46 stitches, finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the side. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 57-58-59-60-61-62 cm, insert 1 marker in the side. Marker indicates armhole. When piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm, knit 1 row from wrong side over the first 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches from the side, then continue pattern as before over the remaining 16 stitches. On next row (right side) work the first 16 stitches as before (= collar), cast off the remaining 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches by knitting. Cut the yarn.

RIGHT COLLAR:
= 16 stitches. Continue pattern A.3 over the first 15 stitches as before (from right side) and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the shoulder, at the same time work short rows. I.e. work from right side and work * 2 rows back and forth over all stitches, 2 rows back and forth over the outermost 12 stitches *, work from *-* until collar measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm inside at the most narrow. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and loosely cast off by knitting from wrong side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 47-49-53-55-59-63 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Sky + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from the right side (= from the side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* the rest of row. Continue rib like this until 5 rows rib have been worked in total.
Purl 1 row from wrong side (work 3 edge stitches towards the side in garter stitch) - AT THE SAME TIME increase 3 stitches evenly on this row = 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Now work pattern from right side as follows (= from the side): Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over the next 30-32-36-38-42-46 stitches, and finish with A.4 towards mid front (= 17 stitches). When piece measures 57-58-59-60-61-62 cm, insert 1 marker in the side. Marker indicates armhole. When piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm, work next row as follows from wrong side: Continue pattern as before over the first 16 stitches, knit from wrong side over the remaining 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches. On next row (right side), cast off the first 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches for shoulder = 16 stitches remain on needle for collar. Continue pattern rest of row as before.

LEFT COLLAR:
= 16 stitches. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= towards the shoulder), work the last 15 stitches in A.4 as before (from wrong side), at the same time work short rows. I.e. work from wrong side and work * 2 rows back and forth over all stitches, 2 rows back and forth over the outermost 12 stitches *, work from *-* until collar measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm inside at the most narrow. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and loosely cast off by knitting from wrong side.

SLEEVE:
Sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Cast on 46-50-52-54-58-60 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand Sky + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work in the different sizes as follows:

Size S, M:
Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When sleeve measures 41-40 cm in total, continue as explained below.

Size L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When sleeve measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP = 50-52-56-58 stitches. Decrease in size L is now done. In size XL, XXL and XXXL repeat decrease every 4 cm 1-2-2 more times = 50-50-52-54 stitches. When sleeve measures 39-38-36-34 cm in total, continue as explained below.

All sizes:
Knit 1 row from right side. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) with 1 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. When 5 rows in rib have been worked in total, loosely cast off by knitting from right side. Sleeve measures approx. 44-43-42-41-39-37 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge (2 purled rows should be by each other on top of shoulder).
Sew collar together mid back – sew edge to edge to get a flat seam. Sew collar to neckline in the back of neck.
Sew side seam on front and back piece from markers and down, sew in outer loops of edge stitches in garter stitch so that the seam is flat. Leave approx. 15 cm for vent in each side. Sew sleeves in body inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside cast-on edge on sleeves. Sew the openings under the sleeves.

POCKETS:
Work 2 pockets as explained below. Cast on 29 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When pocket measures 19 cm, knit 1 row from right side over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work next row from wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this until 5 rows rib have been worked in total. Loosely cast off by knitting from right side. Place 1 pocket on each front piece approx. 6 cm from cast-on edge and 3 cm from the seam edge. Sew pockets on front pieces inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on pocket.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = insert right needle through stitch from previous row, knit 1 and then slip stitches off the needle
symbols = slip 6 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 6, knit 6 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 206-25

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (79)

country flag Esther wrote:

Hallo, ich finde die Jacke sehr schön und trage sie eigentlich gerne. Leider ist sie aber schon nach ein paar mal tragen vorne an den Ecken viel länger als hinten (mindestens 10 cm Unterschied). Ich habe schon versucht die Jacke feucht in Form zu ziehen, das hat leider nicht geholfen. Haben Sie Tipps für mich, was ich noch tun kann, damit die Jacke wieder ihre ursprüngliche Form erhält?

13.02.2024 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Esther, solche Rückmeldung hatten wir noch nicht, am besten zeigen Sie die Jacke Ihr DROPS Laden - auch ein Foto per E-Mail, so kann man dort sicher weiterhelfen. Danke für Ihr Verständnis.

14.02.2024 - 13:15

country flag Fabienne Cluts wrote:

Bonjour, Où se trouve le motif A1 car je ne le vois pas sur les explications. Pouvez-vous me l'expliquer ? Merci

03.07.2023 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cluts, le diagramme A.1 se trouve à droite du schéma des mesures, sous la manche, il se tricote sur 2 mailles et 4 rangs. Bon tricot!

03.07.2023 - 15:59

country flag Susanne wrote:

Dear Ladies and Sirs, I would like to knit above cardigan, Would you be so kind an email this instruction to me ? in german ? thanks a lot - kind regards Susanne

03.10.2022 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susanne, all our patterns ar available in German - click on the scroll down menu to edit the language so that you can print it - using a virtual printer will allow you to save it as a .PDF. Happy knitting!

04.10.2022 - 07:41

country flag Pia wrote:

De 6 masker der skal tages ind, når ryggen måler 80 cm, skal de kun være over de 12 masker i midten, så man strikker 2 m sammen 6 gange (over snoningen), eller skal de fordeles over hele pinden? Den bliver så flot.

22.09.2022 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Ja, de skal kun være over de 12 masker i midten. Mvh DROPS Design

23.09.2022 - 10:45

country flag Lea wrote:

Hallo, kann ich diese Anleitung auch nur einfädig stricken? Z.B. Drops Wish? Vielen Dank.

05.06.2022 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lea, die Maschenprobe würde lieber für Melody sein, mit Wish wird der Textur etwas dichter. Gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden das beste passende Garn empfehlen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.06.2022 - 08:41

country flag Riet Pranger wrote:

Klopt het dat ik voor vest 206-15 9 sky mix en 6 bollen drops Air naturel nodig heb . Kijkt mij net anders om.

11.05.2022 - 12:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Riet,

Ja, dat klopt (voor maat XL).

14.05.2022 - 10:03

country flag Kasia wrote:

Dziękuję!

25.04.2022 - 17:33

country flag Kasia wrote:

Dzień dobry! Mam pytanie dot. rękawa: w opisie (rozm. L) jest napisane, żeby nabrać 52 o. Gdy dł. rękawa wyniesie 4 cm, należy ZAMKNĄĆ oczka. I tu podana jest liczba 56 o. Pytanie: jak po zamknięciu oczek jest ich więcej niż przy nabieraniu? Czego nie zrozumiałam?;) dziękuję!

25.04.2022 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu, w części 'Rozmiary L, XL, XXL i XXXL' do rozmiaru L odnosi się 1-sza, a nie 3-cia wartość, czyli po zamknięciu 1 o. z każdej strony zostaje 50 oczek. Pozdrawiamy!

25.04.2022 - 16:12

country flag Anna Marie Fedel wrote:

Is it necessary to block this when finished? I need see any blocking instruction on the pattern. I'm almost done , I can't believe it!

08.03.2022 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fedel, glad to read that you are almost done! Some knitters block some other don't, so that you can block if you like it (follow instructions on the label). Your DROPS store might have more tips for you. Happy knitting!

09.03.2022 - 17:52

country flag Anna Marie Fedel wrote:

Wow , I have to rip this whole back out don't I. So frustrated.

24.02.2022 - 14:08