DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 3.45 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Winter Wheat Jacket

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Puna or DROPS Soft tweed. The piece is worked top down with textured pattern on the sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 206-47
DROPS Design: Pattern no pu-041
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 02, beige
Or use:
DROPS Soft Tweed from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 02, marzipan

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
Approx. 24 stitches in width with textured pattern (A.2) = 10 x 10 cm.
(the textured pattern contracts a little with Puna and is elastic).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch/textured pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm or 60 cm for rib on neck.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 6 items in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 3.45 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be increased over (e.g. 3 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 3) = 1. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE SLEEVES:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work as far as the mid-stitch on the sleeve (= stitch with marker), * knit 1, make 1
yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 2 times in the same stitch, knit 1 in the same
stitch (= 4 stitches increased in the same stitch). Repeat on the other sleeve. The
new stitches are worked into pattern A.2.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Sizes L and XXXL:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the stitch with the marker, knit 2 together, purl 1 (marker in this stitch), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased).
Sizes XL and XXL:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the stitch with the marker, knit 2 together, knit 3 (marker in the middle stitch of these 3), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-5-5-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 8½-9-9-9½-10-10 cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. Stocking stitch is worked on the front and back pieces, textured pattern on the sleeves.

NECK:
Cast on 109-117-117-125-125-133 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Puna. Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work rib from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, (knit 1 / purl 1) until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. Remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. When the rib measures approx. 3 cm – adjust so the next row is from the right side, insert a marker. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work the next row as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit the next 3-5-5-7-7-9 stitches and increase at the same time 3-1-3-1-4-3 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP, work A.1 over the next stitch, insert a marker thread here, (= transition between left front piece and left sleeve), work A.2 over the next 40 stitches, work the first stitch in A.2, insert a marker thread here (= transition between left sleeve and back piece), A.3 over the next stitch, knit the next 7-11-11-15-15-19 stitches and increase at the same time increase 7-4-7-3-9-7 stitches evenly spaced, A.1 over the next stitch, insert a marker thread here (= transition between back piece and right sleeve), work A.2 over the next 40 stitches, work the first stitch in A.2, insert a marker thread here (= transition between right sleeve and right front piece), work A.3 over the next stitch, knit the next 3-5-5-7-7-9 stitches and increase at the same time 3-1-3-1-4-3 stitches evenly spaced, 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 126-127-134-134-146-150 stitches on the needle.
There is now 1 marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads). Insert 1 marker in the mid-stitch on each sleeve (= knitted stitch). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue back and forth with pattern A.2 between the marker threads on the sleeve, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front and A.1/A.3 + stocking stitch on the remaining stitches on the front and back pieces – AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side (row 3 in A.1/A.3) start INCREASE SLEEVES – read description above (= 4 stitches increased on each sleeve). Increase like this every 8th-8th-6th-6th-4th-4th row a total of 6-7-10-11-13-14 times. When A.1 and A.3 have been completed in height continue to repeat towards the raglan-lines 7-8-9-10-11-12 more times (a total of 8-9-10-11-12-13 times), then work the first 3-3-1-1-0-0 rows in the diagrams.
When all the increases to sleeves and front and back pieces are finished there are 310-335-374-398-438-466 stitches on the needle (increased 24-28-40-44-52-56 stitches on each sleeve and 35-39-41-45-48-52 stitches on each side of the back piece and the one side of the front pieces). The piece now measures approx. 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this continue working to the right length.
The next row from the wrong side is worked as follows:
Work the first 47-51-55-59-65-70 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 65-69-81-85-93-97 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 9-9-9-11-11-13 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 86-95-102-110-122-132 stitches (= back piece), place the next 65-69-81-85-93-97 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 9-9-9-11-11-13 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 47-51-55-59-65-70 stitches (= left front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
There are 198-215-230-250-274-298 stitches on the body. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 21 cm increase 1-0-1-1-1-1 stitch = 199-215-231-251-275-299 stitches. Work an edge as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.2 until there are 6 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth until the edge measures 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 65-69-81-85-93-97 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 74-78-90-96-104-110 stitches. Work pattern A.2 in the round as before. The pattern should fit on the round. Work as follows in the different sizes:
Sizes S, M:
Work textured pattern until the sleeve measures 41-39 cm from the division. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Work textured pattern until the sleeve measures 4 cm from the division. Insert a marker in the middle stitch under the sleeve. On the next round begin to decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 4-4-4-4 times = 82-88-96-102 stitches. Continue with textured pattern until the sleeve measures 38-37-36-34 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Suzy Lunders wrote:

Hallo, ik heb nog een vraagje voor model 206-47! Het telpatroon A.1 en A.3 als die zijn afgewerkt, moet ik dan voor de raglan te herhalen gewoon vanonder met het telpatroon terug beginnen: 1 maal meerderen volgende naald niets, dan 2 omslagen maken, volgende naald niets, volgende naald 1 omslag maken?Mvg Suzy

12.09.2023 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Suzy,

Ja, je begint dan inderdaad opnieuw met A.1 en A.3 van onder naar boven.

13.09.2023 - 20:39

country flag Suzy Lunders wrote:

Hallo, ik ben met model 206-47 begonnen! graag wat meer uitleg over het telpatroon: A2 daar zie ik 2 blanco vakjes, is dit 1 rij alles rechts en 1 rij alles averechts voor 1 blanco vakje of is dit 1 vakje per rij? dan 1 bolletje en 1 blanco, is dit 1 averechts en 1rechts volgende rij terug alles rechts voor 1 vakje? Dus is 1 vakje 1rij of 1rij heen en rij terug? Mvg Suzy

12.09.2023 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Suzy,

In de telpatronen zijn alle naalden weergegeven. De eerste rij van A.2 is dus recht aan de goede kant. Als je die naald aan de verkeerde kant breit, brei je hem averecht, maar het is 1 naald en geen 2 naalden. De volgende rij is 1 recht, 1 averecht.

13.09.2023 - 20:29

country flag Martina Te Lintelo wrote:

Bij de pas staat na Als A.1 en A.3 klaar zijn in de hoogte.... "brei dan de eerste 0 naalden in de telpatronen". Ik maak maat XL. Hoeveel moet ik bij elke A.1 en A.3 nu meerderen?

22.08.2023 - 17:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Martina,

Er staat 'brei dan de brei dan de eerste 3-3-1-1-0-0 naalden in de telpatronen. Voor maat XL geldt dus dat je na de meerderingen alleen de eerste naald in de telpatronen breit. Daarboven staat hoe vaak je meerdert, in jouw maat is dat voor de mouwen 11 keer in totaal.

28.08.2023 - 07:31

country flag Melanie wrote:

Ich verstehe das Strukturmuster A2 nicht. Können sie das bitte erklären?

21.08.2023 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melanie, A.2 ist ein Rippenmuster: *1 Masche glatt rechts, 1 Masche kraus rechts*, so stricken Sie bei den Hinreihen: 2 Maschen rechts, und bei den Rückreihen wird die glatt rechte Masche links gestrickt und die krausrechte Masche rechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.08.2023 - 09:15

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Pour les manches : comment faire A2 en rond ? Vous indiquez un nombre de mailles plus important après les diminutions, pourquoi ? Les manches sont encore très larges après ces diminutions, pourquoi ?

03.09.2022 - 08:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, tricotez A.2 ainsi en rond: tour 1: 2 m end, tour 2: (1 m end, 1 m env), répétez de (à) et répétez ces 2 tours. On diminue pour les manches seulement en taille L, XL, XXL et XXXL où on va passer de 90-96-104-110 à 82-88-96-102 mailles; en taille S et M, on ne diminue pas sous la manche. Bon tricot!

05.09.2022 - 08:50

country flag Deborah wrote:

Yes, thank you so much! Cannot guarantee I won't be asking more as the increases keep coming but I am now looking forward to getting on with it😊

16.05.2022 - 09:36

country flag Deborah wrote:

Thank you but I am doing size M. and have the correct number of 127 Sts on the needle. I just want to know - how many Sts on each front (11 or 12?), sleeve (40 or 41?) and back (21 or 20?). Think it must be 41 for the sleeves so the middle one is a K st? Please just tell me the number of Sts in each section. Thanks.

16.05.2022 - 08:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deborah, on first row in M (2nd size), you work: 5 front band sts, K5 + inc 1 (= K6), A.1 (= 1 st) , ie 5+5+1+1=12 sts + 1 st increased = 13 sts for front piece; sleeve: 41 sts (A.2 over 40 sts + 1st st in A.2), back piece = A.3 (= 1 st), K11+4 A.1 (1 st) = 1+11+4+1=17+2 sts inc = 18 sts for back piece; right front piece: A.3 (= 1 st), K5+1=6 sts, 5 front band sts = 1+6+5=12 sts + 1 st inc = 13 sts so that you get: 13+41+19+ 41+13=127 sts. Can this help?

16.05.2022 - 09:22

country flag Deborah wrote:

Making increases for yoke and dividing for sleeves. I have followed pattern instructions exactly and have the correct number of stitches. Markers on YOs which will be holes for raglans? But 40st on Rsl and 42 on L! 12sts on fronts. 17sts on back + 4 raglan holes = 127. How do I get the correct number of Sts on each sleeve and have holes for raglans in the correct place? I have read and reread the pattern and cannot proceed with purls in correct place for sleeves. Frustrated and confused :(

15.05.2022 - 08:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deborah, you increase for the raglan with diagrams A.1 and A.3, ie you work A.1 at the end of left front piece, A.3 at the beg of back piece + A.1 at the end of back piece and A.3 at the beg of right front piece. (Yarn overs are worked twisted to avoid holes). When diagrams are done, repeat them the same way. On first row: 4 sts inc for raglan in A.1/A.3 + inc over front & back pieces (= 3+7+3=13 sts) + the 117 sts cast on = 117+4+13=134 sts in size L. (Increase then on sleeve 4 sts in the middle on top of sleeve.) Hope this can help. Happy knitting!

16.05.2022 - 08:29

country flag LyLy wrote:

Hi,I did a size M and got stuck on the yoke part. Could you kindly explain to me what it means by "..when A. 1 & A. 3 have been completed in height continue to repeat towards the raglan-line 8 more times" So I shouldn't do any increase, right? "Then work the first 3 rows in the diagrams" So now I have to start increasing again? Cuz now I have 347 instead of 335. I wonder where I went wrong.

04.04.2022 - 04:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lyly, you repeat A.1/A.3 a total of 9 times = 9x4 sts increased in each front piece + the first 3 rows = 3 sts increased in each front piece = 36+3=39 sts have been increased in each front piece and on each side of back piece - you should have increased a total of 28 sts on each sleeve 4 sts increased a total of 7 times). Can this help?

04.04.2022 - 10:34

country flag Mette Knudsen wrote:

Strikker winter wheat jacket, men forstår ikke hvordan man gjør økningen på ermet. Finnes det en video som viser?

27.03.2022 - 13:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mette, du strikker 1 ret, 1 omslag, 1 ret, 1 omslag, 1 ret i samme maske og på denne måde tager du 4 masker ud samtidig, så mønsteret går op :)

30.03.2022 - 14:45