Candy Cane Lane Kids Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket for kids with Nordic Fana pattern in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Lima. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size 2-12 years

DROPS design: Pattern u-081-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 48, wine red
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 01, off white

Or use
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 3609, red
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 0100, off white


KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 60 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS burned (Cedar) NO 513: 6-6-6-7-7-8 pieces

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100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 80 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 17) = 4.7. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked = 2 stitches decreased. Adjust pattern mid under sleeve so that pattern continues nicely around the rest of sleeve.

BUTTONHOLES (applies to right band when garment is worn):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = work 2 stitches together, make 1 yarn over - NOTE: It will look nicer if you decrease for buttonhole by purling 2 together in a section with 2 purl stitches (seen from right side). On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Place bottom buttonhole approx. 2 cm from bottom edge, decrease top buttonhole on neck edge, make sure that the other buttonholes are evenly placed according to these.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 92-96-96-100-100-104 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with wine red / red. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm, but after approx. 1-1-1-1½-1½ -1½ cm decrease for 1 buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn) by working from right side until 5 stitches remain, purl 2 together, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Cast off 6 stitches at beginning of row (fasten band here later), purl the next 80-84-84-88-88-92 stitches and increase at the same time 17-17-17-17-17-21 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, then continue over the remaining 5 stitches and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn piece and cast off the first 6 stitches at beginning of row = 97-101-101-105-105-113 stitches. Insert 1 marker on row – NOW MEASURE YOKE FROM HERE! Work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work first row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 4 stitches remain on row (= 23-24-24-25-25-27 repetitions of 4 stitches), work A.2 over 3 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME increase stitches evenly on every row marked with arrow in A.1 as explained below, work different number of stitch according to diagram A.2 when increasing stitch to make the pattern fit nicely along the band.
Arrow-1: Increase 12-12-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly = 109-113-113-117-117-125 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 12-12-12-16-16-24 stitches evenly = 121-125-125-133-133-149 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 15-19-19-23-23-31 stitches evenly = 136-144-144-156-156-180 stitches.
Continue the pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 3 stitches remain on row (= 33-35-35-38-38-44 repetitions of 4 stitches), work A.2 over 2 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Arrow-4: Increase 35-39-39-39-39-27 stitches evenly = 171-183-183-195-195-207 stitches.
Continue the pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 3 stitches remain on row (= 14-15-15-16-16-17 repetitions of 12 stitches), work A.2 over 1 stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Arrow-5: Increase 13-13-21-17-29-25 stitches evenly = 184-196-204-212-224-232 stitches.
Continue the pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 3 stitches remain on row (= 45-48-50-52-55-57 repetitions of 4 stitches), work A.2 over 2 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Arrow-6: Increase 13-21-21-21-25-25 stitches evenly = 197-217-225-233-249-257 stitches.
Continue the pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 4 stitches remain on row (= 48-53-55-57-61-63 repetitions of 4 stitches), work A.2 over 3 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Arrow-7: Increase 8-4-8-12-12-12 stitches evenly = 205-221-233-245-261-269 stitches.
Arrow-8: Increase 4-4-4-4-4-4 stitches evenly = 209-225-237-249-265-273 stitches.
Continue A.X and A.Y and when piece measures approx. 14-14-15-16-17-17 cm from marker, work as follows from right side: Work 34-37-39-41-44-45 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 40-43-45-47-49-51 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 61-65-69-73-79-81 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 40-43-45-47-49-51 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 34-37-39-41-44-45 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 141-151-159-171-183-187 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast on under sleeve. Continue A.X and A.Y from wrong side and increase at the same time 0-2-2-2-2-2 stitches evenly on row = 141-153-161-173-185-189 stitches.
Continue pattern as shown in A.X and A.Y until piece measures approx. 4 cm, now increase stitch on each side of every marker - read INCREASE TIP-2 in explanation above. Make sure that increases are done on the rows marked with a star (this way the pattern will continue to fit the entire round, when 4 stitches are increased in each side between every row worked in colour pattern). Increase as follows in the different sizes:
SIZE 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 years:
Increase 4-4-4-6 times in total – increase every time A.X - A.Y are worked vertically.
SIZE 9/10 - 11/12 years:
Increase 6-6 times in total – increase every other time A.X - A.Y are worked vertically.

ALL SIZES:
= 157-169-177-197-209-213 stitches. Work until piece measures 16-20-23-25-28-32 cm from division, or desired length. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 43-43-47-51-51-55 stitches evenly = 200-212-224-248-260-268 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and wine red / red and work next row from wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Then cast off stitches with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge. Jacket measures approx. 38-42-46-50-54-58 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 40-43-45-47-49-51 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 46-49-51-55-57-59 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker thread later when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Begin round at marker thread and work pattern A.X in the round as before, adjust so that pattern fits over pattern worked on yoke (it will not fit on the under side of sleeve). When piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-3-3½-3½-4-4 cm 7-7-7-8-8-9 times in total = 3235-37-39-41-41 stitches. When sleeve measures 18-22-26-30-34-38 cm from division, knit 1 round while increasing 4-5-3-5-3-7 stitches evenly = 36-40-40-44-44-48 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and wine red / red. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl but make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge. Sleeve measures approx. 22-26-30-34-38-42 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way. 

LEFT BAND:
Pick up approx. 76-84-92-100-108-116 stitches from inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on circular needle size 2.5 mm with wine red / red (number of stitches should be divisible by 4).
Work rib as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for approx. 3 cm – adjust so that it is the same width as the 6 stitches cast off in the neck, to make it nice when sewing the towards each other. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work the same way as left band but after 1-1½ cm decrease evenly for 5-5-5-6-6-7 BUTTONHOLES- read explanation above.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew neck edge nicely towards edge on band so that seam is almost invisible.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

= wine red / red
= off white / off white
= increase row for yoke
= increase row for body Increase in the side of body must be done on both rows with star to make the pattern fit next time pattern is worked.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 34-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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