DROPS / 206 / 14

Purple Dawn Jacket by DROPS Design

Crocheted jacket with raglan in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-860
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 9020, light pearl grey
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 6347, grey purple
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 8903, black

CROCHET TENSION:
16 double treble crochets in width and 6 rows in height with 2 strands Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (moonbeam) NO 614: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet/double treble crochet is wide.

STRIPES:
All stripes are worked with 2 strands!
STRIPE 1: 25-27-27-29-29-31 cm with 2 strands light pearl grey.
STRIPE 2: 8-8-8½-8½-9-9 cm with 1 strand light pearl grey + 1 strand grey purple.
STRIPE 3: 8-8-8½-8½-9-9 cm with 2 strands grey purple.
STRIPE 4: 8-8-8½-8½-9-9 cm with 1 strand grey purple + 1 strand black.
STRIPE 5: Then work with 2 strands black to finished length (= 8-8-8½-8½-9-9 cm).


CROCHET INFORMATION 1:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets work 1 chain stitch (does not replace the first double crochet).
At the beginning of each row of double treble crochets work 4 chain stitches (these do not replace the first double treble crochet).

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches (e.g. 76 stitches), minus 5 band stitches on each side, and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 16.5. 
In this example, increase by working 2 double crochets in alternately each 16th and 17th stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size.
A.4 and A.5 do not apply to size M.
NOTE: All rows of double treble crochets are worked from the right side and all rows of double crochets from the wrong side.

STRIPES SLEEVE:
All stripes are worked with 2 strands!
Continue STRIPE 1 until the stripe is 25-27-27-29-29-31 cm in height.
STRIPE 2: 10 cm with 1 strand light pearl grey + 1 strand grey purple.
STRIPE 3: 10 cm with 2 strands grey purple.
STRIPE 4: 10 cm with 1 strand grey purple + 1 strand black.
STRIPE 5: Then work with 2 strands black to finished length (= 15-13-14-12-12-11 cm).

CROCHET INFORMATION 2:
On each row of double crochets, work 1 chain stitch at the beginning of the row (does not replace the first double crochet; is worked in addition to the first stitch), finish the row with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the row before turning and continuing.
On each row of double treble crochets, work 4 chain stitches at the beginning of the row (these do not replace the first double treble crochet; are worked in addition to the first stitch), finish the row with 1 slip stitch in the fourth double crochet on the row before turning and continuing.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch by working 2 double treble crochets together as follows:
Work 1 double treble crochet but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 more double treble crochet, but when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all loops on hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch by working 2 double crochets together as follows:
* Insert the hook in the next stitch, pick up strand *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth, top down. The sleeves are worked back and forth (i.e. alternately from the right and wrong side) and crocheted together at the end of each row, top down. NOTE: All rows with double treble crochets are worked from the right side and all rows with double crochets from the wrong side when you are working pattern.

NECK:
Work 76-80-84-92-92-96 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH with hook size 4.5 mm and 2 strands light pearl grey. Work STRIPES – read description above and work as follows: Turn with 1 chain stitch – read CROCHET INFORMATION 1 and work 1 double crochet in each of the 76-80-84-92-92-96 chain stitches = 76-80-84-92-92-96 double crochets. Work 1 more row of double crochets and increase 4 stitches evenly spaced on this row – read INCREASE TIP = 80-84-88-96-96-100 double crochets.

YOKE:
Now work as follows: A.1 over the first 15-16-17-19-19-20 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= in the transition between left front piece and sleeve), A.3 over the next 2 stitches, A.1 over the next 7 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= in the transition between left sleeve and back piece), A.3 over the next 2 stitches, A.1 over the next 20-22-24-28-28-30 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= in the transition between back piece and right sleeve), A.3 over the next 2 stitches, A.1 over the next 7 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= in the transition between right sleeve and front piece), A.3 over the next 2 stitches and A.1 over the remaining 15-16-17-19-19-20 stitches. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

SIZES S-M:
Continue back and forth like this. Increase 1 stitch on each of the first 3 rows in A.2 and A.3 (i.e. a total of 8 stitches on each row), but on the last row increase 2 stitches (i.e. a total of 16 stitches on the last row).

SIZES L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Continue back and forth like this. Increase 1 stitch on each row of double treble crochets (i.e. a total of 8 stitches on each row of double treble crochets) in A.2 and A.3 and increase 2 stitches on each row of double crochets (i.e. a total of 16 stitches on each row of double crochets).

ALL SIZES:
When A.1 to A.3 have been completed in height 1 time there are 120-124-136-144-144-148 stitches. Continue with A.1 and repeat rows 1 to 4 in A.2 and A.3 on each side of the marker threads until A.1 to A.3 have been worked a total of 4-5-4-4-5-5 times in height (each time A.2/A.3 is worked 1 time in height, the increased stitches are worked into A.1) = 240-284-280-288-336-340 stitches.
Now work A.4 instead of A.2 and A.5 instead of A.3 (does not apply to size M as the increases have finished) on each side of the marker threads; the remaining stitches are worked in A.1 as before.
When A.4 and A.5 have been worked 1 time in height there are 256-284-304-328-344-372 stitches.
Continue with A.1 (without increasing) until the piece measures 25-27-28-30-32-34 cm from the beginning of the neck and down the bands – adjust so the next row is a row of double crochets. Work the next row from the wrong side as follows (the transitions between body and sleeves are not necessarily at the marker threads):
Work A.1 over the first 45-48-50-54-58-63 stitches (= right front piece), work 8-8-10-10-12-12 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip the next 43-51-57-61-61-65 stitches (= sleeve), work A.1 over the next 80-86-90-98-106-116 stitches (= back piece), work 8-8-10-10-12-12 loose chain stitches (= in side under sleeve), skip the next 43-51-57-61-61-65 stitches (= sleeve) and work A.1 over the remaining 45-48-50-54-58-63 stitches (= left front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
There are 186-198-210-226-246-266 stitches on the body. Continue back and forth with pattern A.1 and stripes as before. When all the stripes have been completed in height – adjust so you finish after a row of double crochets, the piece measures approx. 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm. The whole jacket measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm from the shoulder down. Cut and fasten the strands.

SLEEVE:
Start with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch worked under the sleeve and continue back and forth with A.1, working 1 stitch in each stitch around the sleeve – read STRIPES SLEEVES and CROCHET INFORMATION 2 = 51-59-67-71-73-77 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the row (= mid under sleeve).
When the sleeve measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (does not apply to size S) – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 0-2-5-5-4-5 times = 51-55-57-61-65-67 stitches. When the sleeve measures 43-41-41-39-37-36 cm – adjust so the next row is a row of double crochets, work 1 row of double crochets where you decrease 2-3-5-7-8-7 double crochets evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 49-52-52-54-57-60 double crochets. The next row is worked as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 1-0-0-2-1-0 stitches, * 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, work 2 double crochets together (= 1 double crochet decreased) *, work from *-* to end of row = 37-39-39-41-43-45 double crochets. Work 2 rows of double crochets with 1 double crochet in each stitch. Cut and fasten the strands. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band (when the garment is worn). Sew onto the 3rd stitch from the edge.
The first button is sewn approx. 1½-2 cm from the top of the neck, then the other 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttons with approx. 7½-8-8½-8½-7½-8 cm between each one. The jacket is buttoned through the double treble crochets on the right band.

Diagram

= this row has already been worked; it shows how the next row is worked into the stitches
= start on this row (= row 1 in the diagram)
= double crochet in stitch
= double treble crochet in stitch



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Jane 20.11.2019 - 20:27:

I Hækleinformationen står der " afslut rækken med 1 kædemaske i første fastmaske på rækken før det vendes og hækles videre." Jeg forstår ikke hvor den kædemaske skal hækles og hvorfor hvis det er en åben trøje med knapper. Der er også 2 gange hækleinformationer i opskriften.

Karin Hauswirth 25.10.2019 - 14:40:

Ich habe Konfektionsgrösse 42/44. Welche Grösse muss ich nehmen?

DROPS Design 25.10.2019 kl. 16:33:

Liebe Frau Hauswirth, hier lesen Sie wie man die Größe wählt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Lola Benítez Muñoz 21.10.2019 - 11:41:

En el patrón en español no vienen los diagramas ni el dibujo del patrón

Rosa 26.08.2019 - 11:52:

Imposible abrir las instrucciones!!!

Alice 09.08.2019 - 11:17:

No se me abren las instrucciones

Maie Louise Hebert 15.07.2019 - 15:29:

Magnifique

Nicole Anja 24.06.2019 - 21:40:

Finally found something to try out Alpaca! I absolutely love the pullover verstion!

Katherine 08.06.2019 - 07:19:

I love the look and that it is crochet. Pretty crochet patterns are few and far between. I would make this even though it is not a V-neck : ) I would vote for it but I used up my 10 already. Pretty and Lovely.

Tiziana Gervasutti 06.06.2019 - 23:01:

Semplice ma d'effetto

Elsa Alís Domínguez 06.06.2019 - 09:32:

Wishing to be able to weave this pattern!!

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