DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Cracked Pepper

Crocheted jumper in DROPS Fabel. Piece is crocheted top down with lace pattern and raglan. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 207-44
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-437
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 602, silver fox

CROCHET TENSION:
22 treble crochets in width and 12 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

PATTERN: Diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
Begin round with 3 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet) and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch. Work jumper in the round but turn the piece on every round. I.e. work 1 round from right side and 1 round from wrong side the entire piece.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches to be increased/decreased over (e.g. 24 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 3) = 8.
To increase evenly in this example work 2 treble crochets in every 8th treble crochet.
To decrease evenly in this example work every 7th and 8th treble crochet together. Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in/around first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 treble crochet in/around next treble crochet/stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER:
Work top down. Work in the round but on every round turn piece mid back. Work an edge around the neck, sleeves and along bottom edge of jumper.

YOKE:
Work 120-129-132-141-141-147 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm with Fabel - read CHAIN STITCH, and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Beginning of round = mid back. READ CROCHET INFO and work 1 treble crochet in every chain stitch on round = 120-129-132-141-141-147 treble crochets. Turn and work next round from wrong side as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 19-21-22-24-24-26 treble crochets, * work 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* over the next 22 treble crochets (= total 11 treble crochets increased), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 38-43-44-49-49-51 treble crochets, repeat from *-* over the next 22 treble crochets (= 11 treble crochets increased), 1 treble crochet in each of the last 19-21-22-24-24-26 treble crochets = 142-151-154-163-163-169 treble crochets.

On next round insert marker threads in piece, while working move the marker threads upwards to make it easier to see where every repetition begins and ends. Work as follows from right side:
Work A.1 over the first 21-24-24-27-27-27 treble crochets (= 7-8-8-9-9-9 repetitions) (=half back piece). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.2a over the next 2 treble crochets (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread. Work A.1 over the next 12 treble crochets (= 4 repetitions). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.3 over 1 treble crochet (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread here. Work A.1 over the next 12 treble crochets (= 4 repetitions).
Insert 1 marker thread and work A.2a over the next 2 treble crochets (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread (= sleeve). Work A.1 over the next 42-45-48-51-51-57 treble crochets (= 14-15-16-17-17-19 repetitions) (= front piece). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.2a over the next 2 treble crochets (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread. Work A.1 over the next 12 treble crochets (= 4 repetitions). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.3 over 1 treble crochet (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread. Work A.1 over the next 12 treble crochets (= 4 repetitions). Insert 1 marker thread and work A.2a over the next 2 treble crochets (= 1 repetition) and insert 1 marker thread (= sleeve). Work A.1 over the last 21-24-24-27-27-27 treble crochets (= 7-8-8-9-9-9 repetitions) (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

SIZE S AND M:
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 200-209 treble crochets on round.

SIZE L, XL AND XXL:
On last round in A.1 to A.3 increase 6-6-6 treble crochets evenly over stitches in diagram A.1 on front piece – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP and 6-0-12 treble crochets evenly over stitches in diagram A.1 on back piece (= 12-6-18 treble crochets increased in total). When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 224-227-239 treble crochets on round.

SIZE XXXL:
On last round in A.1 to A.3 increase 3 treble crochets evenly over stitches in diagram A.1 on back piece – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 230 treble crochets on round.

ALL SIZES:
There are 200-209-224-227-239-230 treble crochets in total after last round in diagrams and piece measures approx. 5 cm in all sizes.

SIZE L, XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Work A.1 as before, but work as follows over A.2a and A.3: Work diagram A.2a over the 2 middle treble crochets in every repetition of A.2a 1-1-2-2 more times vertically (i.e. A.2a is worked 2-2-3-3 times in total vertically), over the remaining stitches work A.1 (i.e. work 2 repetitions of A.1 over every A.3 on sleeves and work 2 repetitions of A.1 on each side of A.2a). When A.2a is done there are 272-275-335-326 treble crochets on last round. Piece measures approx. 8-8-12-12 cm.

SIZE XXXL:
Work diagram A.2b over the middle 2 treble crochets in every repetition of A.2a 1 time in total vertically, work treble crochets over the remaining stitches. When A.2b has been worked, there are 374 treble crochets on last round. Piece measures approx. 15 cm.

ALL SIZES:
There 200-209-272-275-335-374 treble crochets in total on round and piece measures approx. 5-5-8-8-12-15 cm.

SIZE S, M, L AND XL:
Work A.1 as before but now work A.4a over the middle 2 treble crochets in every repetition of A.2 2-2-1-1 time in total vertically, work the remaining stitches in A.1. I.e. over every A.2 work as follows: Work A.1 over 6 treble crochets (= 2 repetitions), A.4a over 2 treble crochets (= 1 repetition) and A.1 over 6 treble crochets (= 2 repetitions). Every time A.4a is repeated vertically work 8 repetitions more of A.1 on round.

SIZE M, L AND XL:
Work diagram A.4b over the middle 2 treble crochets in every repetition of A.4a a total of 1-1-2 times vertically, work treble crochets over the remaining stitches.

SIZE XXL AND XXXL:
Work diagram A.4b over the middle 2 treble crochets in every repetition of A.2 2-2 times in total vertically, work treble crochets over the remaining stitches.

ALL SIZES:
When A.4 is done there are 248-281-320-347-383-422 treble crochets on round. Piece measures approx. 12-15-15-18-19-22 cm.
Work diagram A.5 over the middle 2 treble crochets in every repetition of A.4 1 time in total vertically, work treble crochets over the remaining stitches. I.e. over every A.4 work as follows: Work 3 treble crochets, A.5 over the next 2 treble crochets (= 1 repetition) and 3 treble crochets. When A.5 is done there are 276-309-348-375-411-450 treble crochets on round. Piece measures approx. 15-18-18-21-22-25 cm. Continue with treble crochets over all stitch until piece measures 17-19-20-22-24-26 cm in total. Now divide for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 39-45-48-54-61-66 stitches (= half back piece), skip the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 treble crochets (= sleeve), work 12 chain stitches (= under sleeve), work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 84-87-102-105-121-138 stitches (= front piece), skip the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 treble crochets (= sleeve), work 12 chain stitches (= under sleeve), work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 39-45-48-54-61-66 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 186-201-222-237-267-294 stitches. Work 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet/chain stitch until finished measurements and turn piece on every round as on yoke. When piece measures 3.5 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, decrease on every 4th round as follows: Decrease 6 treble crochets evenly 3-3-3-2-2-2 times in total and then 3 treble crochets 0-0-1-0-1-1 time in total = 168-183-201-225-252-279 stitches. When piece measures 14 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, increase on every 4th round follows: 15 treble crochets evenly 0-0-1-1-0-0 times in total, 9 treble crochets evenly 3-3-3-2-4-3 times in total, and 6 treble crochets evenly 1-1-0-1-0-1 time in total = 201-216-243-264-288-312 stitches. Continue by working treble crochets until piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm from where body was divided from sleeves. Piece measures approx. 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm from neck edge. Then work an edge around the bottom edge as follows from right side: * Work 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm and work 1 double crochet in next treble crochet *, work from *-* the entire round. Cut and fasten the yarn.

SLEEVE:
Worked top down. Work in the round but turn piece after every round as on yoke and body. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Begin round in the 6th chain stitch of the 12 chain stitches worked under sleeve on body, then work 1 treble crochet in every chain stitch/treble crochet the entire round = 69-78-87-93-96-102 treble crochets. Continue to work treble crochets in the round and turn for every round. When sleeve measures 3.5 cm, decrease evenly on every 4th round as follows: Decrease 6 treble crochets 0-1-3-5-6-6 times in total and 3 treble crochets 5-6-4-2-0-0 times in total = 54-54-57-57-60-66 treble crochets.
Continue with treble crochets until piece measures 38-36-35-33-32-31 cm from where sleeve was divided from body (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Then work an edge around the bottom edge as follows from right side: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 double crochet in first/next treble crochet, 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, work from *-* around the entire sleeve and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work in the round, back and in the forth over chain stitch row in neck as follows:
ROUND 1 (= from wrong side): Begin mid back, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in first stitch, work 1 half treble crochet between every treble crochet over chain stitch row in neck (replace first half treble crochet with 2 chain stitches) = approx. 120-129-132-141-141-147 half treble crochets.
ROUND 2 (from right side): Work 1 double crochet in every half treble crochet (first double crochet on row replaced with 1 chain stitch) = approx. 120-129-132-141-141-147 double crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.04.2021
Sections explaining how to work diagrams A.4b and A.5 are corrected.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 treble crochet is wide
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch
symbols = work 4 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet around chain stitch, but wait with last pull through, work another 3 treble crochets around same chain stitch, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.
symbols = row/round has already been worked, begin on next row/round
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Marianne W wrote:

Bonjour, je crochette présentement le chandail pour femme « Cracked pepper », médium. Je termine presque l’encolure mais ça gondole (curls) beaucoup trop! Est-ce que j’ai fait une erreur ou si c’est normal? Je pourrais vous envoyer deux photos.

21.02.2024 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marianne, pensez à bien conserver la bonne tension en largeur et en hauteur pour conserver la bonne forme., il arrive parfois qu'on perde facilement la tension adéquate. Bon crochet!

22.02.2024 - 08:42

country flag Julia wrote:

Hallo, irgendwie ist mir bei den Diagrammen A4b und A5 die zweite Reihe nicht ganz klar - in der erste Reihe habe ich abwechselnd ein Stäbchen mit Zunahme und ein "normales" Stäbchen. Im Diagramm erscheint die nächste Reihe so, dass aus den zwei Stäbchen (ehemals Zunahme) drei Stäbchen gehäkelt werden sollen - ist damit eine erneute Zunahme gemeint oder bezieht dies das Stäbchen, in dem nicht zugenommen wurde, mit ein? Wie muss ich die 2. Reihe der Diagramme häkeln? Vielen Dank vorab!

14.01.2024 - 21:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Julia, bei der 2. Reihe A.4b/A.5 wird man 1 Stäbchen zunehmen, so sind es 3 Stäbchen über die 2 Stäbchen von der vorrigen Reihen gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.01.2024 - 09:58

country flag Lill wrote:

Hei! Jeg lager cracked pepper i str S og kommer ikke videre etter at jeg har 142 masker. Sånn som jeg skjønner det er A1 2 staver med 1 luftmaske imellom og skal hekles i annen hver maske de 21 første stavene. Disse består av 7 rapporter?? I mitt hode er 1 rapport = 2 staver med en luftmaske imellom? Men dersom jeg gjør det får jeg langt over 200 masker ved neste opptelling. Hva er en rapport?

25.10.2023 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lill, du hopper over 2 masker (altså hopper over både 1. og 3. stav i rapporten) :)

26.10.2023 - 14:19

country flag Marlies Lindemann wrote:

Nachfrage zur Antwort v.17.02.23 an Claudia: Es wird beschrieben wie die 14 Maschen von A2 gehäkelt werden [6/2/6 >>> 14 Maschen]. Die 6 Maschen von A3 sollen wie folgt gehäkelt werden? 6 Maschen A1 / 2 Maschen A2 / 6 Maschen A1>>>14 Maschen ?? Mir ist nicht klar, wie das bei insgesamt nur 6 Maschen funktionieren kann?

27.09.2023 - 13:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Lindemann, wenn A.3 fertig ist, sind es 6 Maschen, über diese 6 Maschen vorigen A.3 häkeln Sie 2 Mal A.1 (jeweils 3 Maschen). über die 14 Maschen A.2a häkelt man: A.1 2 Mal (6 Maschen), A.2 (2 M), A.1 2 Mal (6Maschen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

02.10.2023 - 07:49

country flag Claudia wrote:

Die Frage würde schon einmal am 22.7. gestellt/ geantwortet. Ich komme trotzdem leider nicht weiter. In Gr. L habe ich nach 1 x Hoehe A2a die geforderten Maße und Maschen. Nun soll ich noch einmal in A2a in der Hoehe häkeln und der Rest mit A1? Dann sind es ja am Ende mehr Maschen. Bei mir sind nun lauter????? Und ich komme einfach nicht weiter. Koennt ihr mir helfen? Danke

17.02.2023 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, wenn A.1/A.2 einmal in der Höhe gehäkelt wird, häkeln Sie noch einaml A.1 wie zuvor aber über die 14 Maschen von A.2 häkeln Sie so: A.1 x 2 (=6 M), A.2a(=2M), A.1x 2 (= 6 M); und über die 6 Maschen A.3 häkeln Sie: A.1 (6 M), A.2 (2 M), A.1 (6 M). A.2/A.3 werden insgesamt 2 Mal in der Höhe gehäkelt und es sind 272 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

17.02.2023 - 16:10

country flag Carmen wrote:

Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Bin einfach nicht draufgekommen das mit den Größen in Verbindung zu bringen. Freu mich schon aufs weiterhäkeln :-)

05.07.2022 - 09:30

country flag Carmen wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team was bedeutet in der Anleitung bei Gr. L-XXXL "noch weitere 1-1-2-2 in der Höhe (d.h. A.2a wurde insgesamt 2-2-3-3 x in der Höhe gehäkelt)"? Ich habe verstanden und auch gehäkelt, das ich A.2a nur über die zwei mittleren Stäbchen der vorherigen Reihe häkeln soll, aber bei 1-1-2-2 in der Höhe bin ich ratlos. Vielen Dank und beste Grüße .

04.07.2022 - 22:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen, in L und XL häkeln Sie A.2 insgesamt 2 Mal in der Höhe (jeweils über die 2 mittleren Maschen von dem vorrigen Rapport), und in XXL + XXXL häkeln Sie A.2 insgesamt 3 Mal in der Höhe so haben Sie 272-275-335-326 Stäbchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

05.07.2022 - 09:17

country flag Christins wrote:

Jag har nu kommit till beskrivningen som säger: när du virkat 3,5 cm från där fram och bakstycket delades från ärmarna minskas det på var fjärde varv… Undrar om jag då ska virka 3 varv till innan första minskningen?

02.03.2022 - 19:07

country flag Lena wrote:

Äntligen fixar! Nu har jag knäckt koden och virkat vidare.

06.11.2021 - 08:40

country flag Lena wrote:

Blev inte rätt i alla fall. Efter 224 maskor. Varv 1 är ökningen 8. Varv 2 ingen ökning. Varv 3 är ökningen 20 och varv 4 är ökningen 18. Stämmer detta. Får inte ihop det till 274 maskor hur jag än läser diagrammen.

03.11.2021 - 22:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lena. Så bra at du fikk det til. God fornøyelse videre, har du flere spørsmål bare husk å huke av for Spørsmål og ikke Kommentar (vi svarer fortløpende på spørsmål, mens Kommentarer ikke kommer i innboksen vår. Ser at du har lagt til 2 spørsmål under Kommentar = derfor ingen svar :) mvh DROPS Design

08.11.2021 - 11:55