DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 80.75CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Story of Snow Jacket

Knitted jacket with round yoke in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 207-23
DROPS design: Pattern z-866
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-102-114-118-138-144 cm = 37”-40”-45”-46 1/2”-54 1/4”-56 1/2”
Full length: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”-29 1/8”

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-125-150-175-175 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16” and 24” or 32” for stockinette stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 80.75CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size in A.1. Diagrams show all rows seen from right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 252 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining 242 stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 10) = 24.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 24th stitch. Do not increase over bands. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If decreasing knit approx. every 23rd and 24th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 1 stitch remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and 4 stitches increased in total on round.) On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes. Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then decrease the next 7-7-7-7-7-7, approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8” between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 87-94-101-108-115-122 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 11-12-13-14-15-16 repetitions of 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 252-274-296-318-340-362 stitches on needle. Knit next row from right side, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 10-4-2-0-6-4 stitches evenly = 242-270-294-318-334-358 stitches – READ DECREASE TIP. Work next row as follows - from wrong side: Knit 5 stitches, purl 35-39-42-46-50-54 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 46-52-58-62-62-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), purl 70-78-84-92-100-108 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 46-52-58-62-62-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve and purl the next 35-39-42-46-50-54 stitches, knit the last 5 stitches (= front piece). Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 162-178-190-206-226-242 stitches. Work as follows - from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch, A.2 until 5 stitches remain, work 5 stitches in garter stitch. On last row in A.2 adjust number of stitches to 161-171-191-201-231-241. Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 stitches in garter stitch as before, A.3A (= 3 stitches), work A.3B over the next 140-150-170-180-210-220 stitches (= 14-15-17-18-21-22 repetitions), A.3C (= 8 stitches), finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch as before. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch, A.4 over all stitches, 5 stitches in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, 43-45-50-53-60-63 stitches in from each side, back piece = 75-81-91-95-111-115 stitches.
Then work in stockinette stitch with 5 stitches in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 20 cm = 8” from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 4 stitches increased) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase every 3 cm = 1 1/8” 5 times in total = 181-191-211-221-251-261 stitches. Continue until piece measures 39-41-43-40-42-44 cm = 15 1/4”-16 1/8”-17”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”. Work as follows - from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch, A.4 until 6 stitches remain, knit 1 and 5 stitches in garter stitch. Work A.4 1 time vertically, work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. Bind off. Piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”-29 1/8” from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 46-52-58-62-62-66 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle or double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches. Marker thread marks mid under sleeve and round begins at the marker thread. Work A.2. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”, begin decreasing stitches mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease every 4 cm = 1 1/2” 4 times in total in all sizes = 44-50-56-60-62-66 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 16 cm = 6 1/4” from division. Purl 1 round and knit 2 rounds, purl 1 round and knit 2 rounds. Then work A.2 over all stitches. Continue with A.2 until sleeve measures 37-38-38-34-34-35 cm = 14 1/2”-15”-15”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”-13 3/4” from division (shorter sleeves in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work 1 ridge, then bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.03.2021
Diagram A.4 updated (1 yarn over added on row 4)

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row knit or purl (see pattern) to make a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row knit or purl (see pattern) yarn over twisted to make avoid holes
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Catherine Debons wrote:

Bonjour, Je réalise le modèle 207-23 et c'est la 1ere fois que je tricote en aller et retour avec aiguille circulaire. Je suis à cet endroit : 5m.endroit, 35m.envers, glisser 46m.sur un arrêt: mes questions : les 6m. à monter se font après les 46m.sur arrêt ? Est-ce que pour tricoter les 70m. suivantes, je garde le même fil ou je dois prendre une nouvelle pelote? Merci pour votre réponse Belle soirée Catherine

04.03.2024 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Debons, ce rang va effectivement se tricoter sans couper le fil, les mailles montées sous la manche vont la remplacer. Dans cette leçon, nous montrons, à partir de la photo 9 comment on va diviser les mailles à la fin de l'empiècement en mettant les mailles des manches en attente, et en montant les mailles sous la manche. Pour une veste, la technique est la même, à la fin de ce rang, vous tricotez simplement sur l'envers au lieu de continuer en rond comme pour le pull dans la leçon. Bon tricot!

05.03.2024 - 09:08

country flag Trine wrote:

Hei! A2 omgang 8: blir det to vrange sammen?

10.08.2023 - 09:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Trine, Nei, Skråstrek opp til høyre er 2 rett sammen, med en 1 kast i mellom hver gang du strikke 2 rett sammen. God fornøyelse!

11.08.2023 - 06:51

country flag Céline wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai tricoté ce beau gilet. Mais je trouve que l'encolure est trop large et j'aimerais remonter le col pour le rendre plus étroit. Je peux relever les mailles du col mais avez vous un modèle de point pour le rapetisser et que ce soit joli ? Merci.

26.09.2022 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, vous pouvez tricoter au point mousse et diminuer le nombre de mailles nécessaire pour avoir la longueur souhaitée, ou bien tricoter en côtes en terminant par un bord picot (ex 1 ou bien ex. 2 ou bien autre chose en fonction de ce que vous souhaitez. Bon tricot!

26.09.2022 - 17:14

country flag Céline Rousseau wrote:

Bonjour, Est-ce normal que le 4e rang de la grille A.4 (avec jetés et 2 mailles ensemble) se tricote sur le rang de retour à l'envers ? Si oui, est-ce que je le tricote à l'endroit quand même ? Merci pour toutes vos réponses précédentes

16.02.2022 - 00:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rousseau, on doit tricoter 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit sur l'envers mais vous pouvez tricoter 2 mailles ensemble à l'envers si vous le préférez. Bonne continuation!

14.03.2022 - 14:10

country flag Céline Rousseau wrote:

Comment répartir les diminutions équilibrées après le A.1 de l'empiecement ? Pour une taille M? Merci.

04.02.2022 - 05:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rousseau, consultez cette cette leçon, elle explique comment calculer où diminuer/augmenter à intervalles réguliers. Bon tricot!

04.02.2022 - 09:18

country flag Céline Rousseau wrote:

Pour le modèle gilet femme 207-23: 1)Je ne comprends pas le texte comment procéder à la partie Dos & devants avec le diagramme A.3 et pourquoi les subdivision A, B, C.? Pouvez-vous me donner les explications détaillées, maille par maille ? À l'aide svp. Pour la taille M. 2) Si je prend des aiguilles 1 point plus grosse, no 6,5 en suivant le patron taille S, est-ce que cela me donneras une taille M? Merci. Céline

30.01.2022 - 06:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, le diagramme A.3 se décompose en 3 parties: A.3A sur les 3 mailles après la bordure devant, on va ensuite répéter A.3B et terminer par A.3C avant la bordure du devant. Pour mieux vous repérer, n'hésitez pas à ajouter un marqueur entre chaque diagramme pour mieux vérifier que vous avez toujours le bon nombre de mailles à chaque fois. Pour avoir les mesures du schéma, il vous faut avoir l'échantillon indiqué, soit 16 m x 20 rangs = 10 x 10 cm avec 2 fils tricotés en même temps - voir aussi ici. Bon tricot!

31.01.2022 - 09:36

country flag Kay Win wrote:

Is the jacket knitted with one strand each of alpaca and kid silk together?

28.01.2021 - 00:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Kay, Yes the whole garment is worked with 2 strands. Happy knitting!

28.01.2021 - 07:33

country flag Henriette wrote:

Hoeveel toeren zitten er tussen 2 overhalingen in de bovenpas?

30.12.2020 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Henriette,

Wat je met overhalingen bedoelt, begrijp ik niet helemaal, maar op de pas brei je telpatroon A.1 en in de telpatroon zijn alle naalden aangegeven, dus zowel de heengaande als de teruggaande naald staat erin getekend.

02.01.2021 - 14:20

country flag Judith wrote:

Warum findet sich in der gedruckten Anleitung kein Diagramm?

03.11.2020 - 21:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Judith, schauen Sie mal die Einstellungen von dem Drucker damit alle Seiten (und nicht nur die ersten) gedruckt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.11.2020 - 09:29

country flag Lucia wrote:

Buongiorno, nella legenda del diagramma compaiono due simboli diversi con la stessa descrizione [()]= 1 gettato tra 2 maglie, sul ferro successivo lavorarlo a diritto o rovescio (vedere il motivo) per creare un buco [()]= 1 gettato tra 2 maglie, sul ferro successivo lavorarlo a diritto o rovescio ritorto (vedere il motivo) per creare un buco. Nel secondo dovrebbe esserci scritto per evitare che si formi un buco, giusto? Grazie.

26.05.2020 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lucia. Abbiamo corretto il testo. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

26.05.2020 - 16:01