DROPS / 207 / 10

Winter Swagger by DROPS Design

Knitted poncho jumper with round yoke in DROPS Fabel. The piece is knitted top down with short rows and stripes. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-438
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 103, grey blue
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 604, ocean view
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 114, light pearl grey

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows vertically in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for garter stitch for garment.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 40 cm for neck edge.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 106 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 14) = 7.6.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 7th and 8th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

CAST OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked top down. Neck edge is worked in the round on circular needle. Then work in garter stitch with short rows back and forth in sections, increase after every section. Work 1 ridge in the round with light pearl grey between every section. Work 10 sections in total. Divide yoke into sleeves and body and finish them separately. Work body back and forth on circular needle and sew together when finished. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle and sew together when finished.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 106-110-115-122-127-134 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with light grey blue. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 1 ridge in the round with light pearl grey and increase 14-15-15-8-13-16 stitches evenly on first round (= knit round ) - read INCREASE TIP = 120-125-130-130-140-150 stitches. 

YOKE:
Then work yoke in sections back and forth with short rows, and in the round in ridges as follows:

SECTION 1:
Continue with ocean view as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round.
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round. 
Now work 1st section with short rows back and forth in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 5 stitches remain before marker (= 115-120-125-125-135-145 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 5 stitches remain before marker (= 110-115-120-120-130-140 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 10 stitches remain before marker (= 105-110-115-115-125-135 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 10 stitches remain before marker (= 100-105-110-110-120-130 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 15 stitches remain before marker (= 95-100-105-105-115-125 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 15 stitches remain before marker (= 90-95-100-100-110-120 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 5 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 10-15-10-10-10-10 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the yarn. Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 5, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 144-150-156-156-168-180 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Cut the yarn.

SECTION 2:
Move the marker 72-75-78-78-84-90 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 72-75-78-78-84-90 stitches to the opposite side, continue 2nd section, begin at the marker).
Then continue with grey blue as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME on first round (= knit round) increase 24-25-52-52-56-60 stitches evenly (i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 6th-6th-3rd-3rd-3rd-3rd stitch). Work yarn over twisted on next round, there should not be a hole = 168-175-208-208-224-240 stitches.
Now work 2nd section with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 7-7-8-8-8-8 stitches remain before marker (= 161-168-200-200-216-232 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 7-7-8-8-8-8 stitches remain before marker (= 154-161-192-192-208-224 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches remain before marker (= 147-154-184-184-200-216 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches remain before marker (= 140-147-176-176-192-208 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 21-21-24-24-24-24 stitches remain before marker (= 133-140-168-168-184-200 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 21-21-24-24-24-24 stitches remain before marker (= 126-133-160-160-176-192 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 7-7-8-8-8-8 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 14-21-16-16-16-16 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges). 
Cut the yarn. 
Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 7-7-8-8-8-8, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 192-200-234-234-252-270 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. Cut the yarn.

SECTION 3:
Move the marker 96-100-117-117-126-135 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 96-100-117-117-126-135 stitches to the opposite side, continue 3rd section, begin at the marker).
Continue with ocean view as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME on first round (= knit round) increase 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches evenly (i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 8th-8th-9th-9th-9th-9th stitch). Work yarn over twisted on next round, there should not be a hole = 216-225-260-260-280-300 stitches.
Now work 3rd section with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 9-9-10-10-10-10 stitches remain before marker (= 207-216-250-250-270-290 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 9-9-10-10-10-10 stitches remain before marker (= 198-207-240-240-260-280 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 18-18-20-20-20-20 stitches remain before marker (= 189-198-230-230-250-270 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 18-18-20-20-20-20 stitches remain before marker (= 180-189-220-220-240-260 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 27-27-30-30-30-30 stitches remain before marker (= 171-180-210-210-230-250 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 27-27-30-30-30-30 stitches remain before marker (= 162-171-200-200-220-240 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 9-9-10-10-10-10 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 18-27-20-20-20-20 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the yarn. 
Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 9-9-10-10-10-10, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 240-250-286-286-308-330 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. Cut the yarn.

SECTION 4:
Move the marker 120-125-143-143-154-165 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 120-125-143-143-154-165 stitches to the opposite side, continue 4th section, begin at the marker).
Then continue with grey blue as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME on first round (= knit round) increase 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches evenly (i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 10th-10th-11th-11th-11th-11th stitch). Work yarn over twisted on next round, there should not be a hole = 264-275-312-312-336-360 stitches.
Now work 4th section with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 11-11-12-12-12-12 stitches remain before marker (= 253-264-300-300-324-348 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 11-11-12-12-12-12 stitches remain before marker (= 242-253-288-288-312-336 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 22-22-24-24-24-24 stitches remain before marker (= 231-242-276-276-300-324 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 22-22-24-24-24-24 stitches remain before marker (= 220-231-264-264-288-312 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 33-33-36-36-36-36 stitches remain before marker (= 209-220-252-252-276-300 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 33-33-36-36-36-36 stitches remain before marker (= 198-209-240-240-264-288 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 11-11-12-12-12-12 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 22-33-24-24-24-24 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the yarn. 
Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 11-11-12-12-12-12, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 288-300-338-338-364-390 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. Cut the yarn.

SECTION 5:
Move the marker 144-150-169-169-182-195 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 144-150-169-169-182-195 stitches to the opposite side, continue 5th section, begin at the marker).
Continue in ocean view as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME on first round (= knit round) increase 0-25-26-26-28-30 stitches evenly (i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 0-12h-13th-13th-13th-13th stitch). Work yarn over twisted on next round, there should not be a hole = 288-325-364-364-392-420 stitches.
Now work 5th section with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 12-13-14-14-14-14 stitches remain before marker (= 276-312-350-350-378-406 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 12-13-14-14-14-14 stitches remain before marker (= 264-299-336-336-364-392 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 24-26-28-28-28-28 stitches remain before marker (= 252-286-322-322-350-378 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 24-26-28-28-28-28 stitches remain before marker (= 240-273-308-308-336-364 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 36-39-42-42-42-42 stitches remain before marker (= 228-260-294-294-322-350 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 36-39-42-42-42-42 stitches remain before marker (= 216-247-280-280-308-336 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 12-13-14-14-14-14 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 24-39-28-28-28-28 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the yarn. 
Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 12-13-14-14-14-14, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 312-350-390-390-420-450 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. Cut the yarn.

SECTION 6:
Move the marker 156-175-195-195-210-225 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 156-175-195-195-210-225 stitches to the opposite side, continue 6th section, begin at the marker).
Then continue in grey blue as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME on first round (= knit round) increase 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches evenly (i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 13th-14h-15th-15th-15th-15th stitch). Work yarn over twisted on next round, there should not be a hole = 336-375-416-416-448-480 stitches.
Now work 6th section with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 14-15-16-16-16-16 stitches remain before marker (= 322-360-400-400-432-464 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 14-15-16-16-16-16 stitches remain before marker (= 308-345-384-384-416-448 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 28-30-32-32-32-32 stitches remain before marker (= 294-330-368-368-400-432 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 28-30-32-32-32-32 stitches remain before marker (= 280-315-352-352-384-416 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 42-45-48-48-48-48 stitches remain before marker (= 266-300-336-336-368-400 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 42-45-48-48-48-48 stitches remain before marker (= 252-285-320-320-352-384 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 14-15-16-16-16-16 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 28-45-32-32-32-32 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the yarn. 
Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 14-15-16-16-16-16, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 360-400-442-442-476-510 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. Cut the yarn.

SECTION 7:
Move the marker 180-200-221-221-238-255 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 180-200-221-221-238-255 stitches to the opposite side, continue 7th section, begin at the marker).
Continue in ocean view as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME on first round (= knit round) increase 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches evenly (i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 15th-16h-17th-17th-17th-17th stitch). Work yarn over twisted on next round, there should not be a hole = 384-425-468-468-504-540 stitches.
Now work 7th section with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 16-17-18-18-18-18 stitches remain before marker (= 368-408-450-450-486-522 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 16-17-18-18-18-18 stitches remain before marker (= 352-391-432-432-468-504 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 32-34-36-36-36-36 stitches remain before marker (= 336-374-414-414-450-486 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 32-34-36-36-36-36 stitches remain before marker (= 320-357-396-396-432-468 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 48-51-54-54-54-54 stitches remain before marker (= 304-340-378-378-414-450 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 48-51-54-54-54-54 stitches remain before marker (= 288-323-360-360-396-432 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 16-17-18-18-18-18 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 32-51-36-36-36-36 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the yarn. 
Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 16-17-18-18-18-18, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 408-450-494-494-532-570 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. Cut the yarn.

SECTION 8:
Move the marker 204-225-247-247-266-285 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 204-225-247-247-266-285 stitches to the opposite side, continue 8th section, begin at the marker).
Then continue in grey blue as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME on first round (= knit round) increase 24-25-0-26-28-0 stitches evenly (i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 17th-18th-0-19th-19th-0 stitch). Work yarn over twisted on next round, there should not be a hole = 432-475-494-520-560-570 stitches.
Now work 8th section with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 18-19-19-20-20-19 stitches remain before marker (= 414-456-475-500-540-551 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 18-19-19-20-20-19 stitches remain before marker (= 396-437-456-480-520-532 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 36-38-38-40-40-38 stitches remain before marker (= 378-418-437-460-500-513 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 36-38-38-40-40-38 stitches remain before marker (= 360-399-418-440-480-494 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 54-57-57-60-60-57 stitches remain before marker (= 342-380-399-420-460-475 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 54-57-57-60-60-57 stitches remain before marker (= 324-361-380-400-440-456 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 18-19-19-20-20-19 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 36-57-38-40-40-38 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the yarn. 
Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 18-19-19-20-20-19, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 456-500-520-546-588-600 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. Cut the yarn.

SECTION 9:
Move the marker 228-250-260-273-294-300 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 228-250-260-273-294-300 stitches to the opposite side, continue 9th section, begin at the marker).
Continue in ocean view as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridges in the round AT THE SAME TIME on first round (= knit round) increase 24-0-0-0-0-0 stitches evenly (i.e. increase with 1 yarn over after every 19th-0-0-0-0-0 stitch). Work yarn over twisted on next round, there should not be a hole = 480-500-520-546-588-600 stitches.
Increases are now done in all sizes.
Now work 9th section with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 20-20-20-21-21-20 stitches remain before marker (= 460-480-500-525-567-580 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until 20-20-20-21-21-20 stitches remain before marker (= 440-460-480-504-546-560 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 40-40-40-42-42-40 stitches remain before marker (= 420-440-460-483-525-540 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until 40-40-40-42-42-40 stitches remain before marker (= 400-420-440-462-504-520 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit until 60-60-60-63-63-60 stitches remain before marker (= 380-400-420-441-483-500 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until 60-60-60-63-63-60 stitches remain before marker (= 360-380-400-420-462-480 stitches), turn and tighten yarn.
Continue like this, i.e. by working 20-20-20-21-21-20 stitches less on every turn until 1 row has been worked over the last 40-60-40-42-42-40 stitches from wrong side (= 11-11-12-12-13-14 ridges).
Cut the yarn. 
Then work in the round with light pearl grey as follows:
Begin at marker (= beginning of round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 20-20-20-21-21-20, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over where the short row was turned) * work from *-* the entire round (= number of stitches stays the same) = 480-500-520-546-588-600 stitches. ROUND 2: Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes. Cut the yarn.

SECTION 10:
Move the marker 240-250-260-273-294-300 stitches (i.e. beginning of round is now displaced 240-250-260-273-294-300 stitches to the opposite side, continue 10th section, begin at the marker). Work the entire section in grey blue as follows:
Work 2-2-3-4-4-4 ridge in the round = 480-500-520-546-588-600 stitches.
Work the same way as SECTION-9 from and with the short rows (i.e. from after all increases are done).

THEN:
Displace round 33-33-34-35-37-36 stitches (i.e. Pass the first 33-33-34-35-37-36 stitches (= should be half the sleeve) loosely on to right needle), insert 1 marker here = beginning of next row. 
Now work the piece back and forth in ridges with grey blue. When the piece measures 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm from after neck edge measured mid front, divided the piece as follows – adjust to knit this round:
Work first 174-184-192-204-220-228 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 66-66-68-69-74-72 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 174-184-192-204-220-228 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 66-66-68-69-74-72 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve). Cut the yarn. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
Work body back and forth in grey blue.
= 360-384-400-424-456-476 stitches. Work first row as follows - begin from wrong side: Begin in 4th-5th-5th-5th-5th-6th stitch of the 6-8-8-8-8-10 new stitches cast on under one sleeve. Work back and forth in garter stitch until the body measures approx. 10 cm from division. Loosely cast off by knitting– read CAST-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve back and forth in grey blue.
Slip the 66-66-68-69-74-72 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on circular needle needles size 3.5 mm. Work first row as follows - begin from wrong side: Pick up 1 stitch in each of the 3-4-4-4-4-5 stitches cast on mid under sleeve, work 66-66-68-69-74-72 stitches, and pick up 1 stitch in each of the last 3-4-4-4-4-5 stitches cast on under sleeve = 72-74-76-77-82-82 stitches. Work in garter stitch until the sleeve measures approx. 24-23-21-20-18-16 cm from division (or desired length). Loosely cast off by knitting. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew together body in the side edge to edge - sew garter stitch to garter stitch.
Sew the underarm together edge to edge - sew garter stitch to garter stitch.

Diagram

= section 1 to 10 - see information in pattern
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Blondel 24.09.2019 - 13:40:

Audacieux ce modèle dont j attends les explications pour le réaliser.

Mimi Routh 05.09.2019 - 23:35:

It seems a spoof on all the short-row shawls that are so popular. Great for dinner date, movie or church. Just push the sleeves up -- then the snow jacket! No sipping sherry while we knit!

Mia 29.08.2019 - 13:30:

Mal ehrlich, wer trägt so etwas freiwillig?

Sophie Artaud 16.08.2019 - 01:16:

A quand l explicatioon de ce superbe pull

Ulla Andersen 13.08.2019 - 13:34:

Jeg savner sååååå meget opskriften - hvornår mon den kommer? Mvh

Helena Completo 05.08.2019 - 08:52:

Adoro! Quero igual...

Carmen 02.08.2019 - 09:32:

So ein ähnliches Modell war doch schonmal dabei 🤔. Ausserdem nicht alltagstauglich, tragbar nur auf der Couch.

Cécile M 31.07.2019 - 07:28:

J'attends avec impatience les explications de ce superbe "swoncho" idéal pour la rentrée !!!

Marleen 30.07.2019 - 15:48:

Ik hoop dat deze werkbeschrijving vlug op de site verschijnt!!

Jokima 19.07.2019 - 13:24:

Forme originale J’aimerais bien le réaliser👍

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