DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 204-10
DROPS design: Pattern ee-681
Yarn group E or C + C
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
700-750 g colour 86, copper

Or use
DROPS Wish from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
500-550 g colour 11, tabasco

HAT:

SIZE:
S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
150-150 g colour 86, copper

Or use
DROPS Wish from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
150-150 g colour 11, tabasco

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in texture pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm: Length 40 cm for texture pattern.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

SCARF:

SIZE:
One-size
Piece measures approx. Width = 44 cm Length = 170 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
600 g colour 86, copper

Or use
DROPS Wish from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
450 g colour 11, tabasco

KNITTING TENSION:
9 stitches in width and 12 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 10 mm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagram A.1.
Scarf: See diagram A.2.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 43 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 6 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 7) = 5.3.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Do not increase over edge stitches. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
If decreasing knit approx. every 4th and 5th stitch together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle, bottom up. Switch to double pointed needles when needed.

HAT:
Cast on 56-60 stitches on a short circular needle size 8 mm with Snow or Wish. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 6 cm. Then work A.1 in the round (= 14-15 repetitions of 4 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When piece measures 24-25 cm from cast-on edge, begin decrease and decrease as below. AT THE SAME TIME knit English rib stitches on every round.
On the first decrease round, decrease all 3 purl stitches to 2 purl stitches by purling 2 stitches together in every purl section = 42-45 stitches. Work 1 round with knit over knit and purl over purl. On next round decrease all 2 purl to 1 purl = 28-30 stitches. Work 2 rounds with knit over knit and purl over purl. Then knit 2 rounds where all stitches are knitted together 2 by 2 on both rounds = 7-8 stitches remain.
Cut the yarn. Pull yarn through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten. Piece measures approx. 29-30 cm from top and down. Fold the bottom 6 cm of hat.

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SCARF - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece back and forth.

SCARF:
Cast on 43 stitches on needle size 10 mm with Snow or Wish. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side: Work 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, knit 1 and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib to work 3 rows in total in rib. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work edge stitches in garter stitch) - AT THE SAME TIME increase 7 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 50 stitches.
Then work A.2 back and forth over all 50 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work until scarf measures approx. 167 cm but finish after approx. 3 or 5 rows after a cable (last row is worked from wrong side).
Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 7 stitches evenly = 43 stitches.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, purl 1 and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this until 3 row rib have been worked in total. Loosely cast off with knit from right side. Scarf measures approx. 170 cm.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 1 in stitch below next stitch - this stitch is now called an English rib stitch
symbols = slip 5 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
symbols = slip 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Gabriela Ambühl wrote:

Guten Tag Die Strickschrift kann nicht stimmen, habe Erfahrung im Stricken und das Zopfmuster sieht nicht aus wie auf dem Foto Freundliche Grüsse

13.12.2023 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ambühl, Diagramme stimmen so, und werden von unten nach oben gelesen, rechts nach links bei den Hin-Reihen und links nach rechts bei den Rückreihen. Hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.02.2024 - 08:51

country flag Debora wrote:

Hallo! Wenn ich alles richtig gemacht habe müsste ich beim Schal in der 1. Reihe die 12. Masche ja als Patentmasche stricken und gleichzeitig aber auch verschränkt stricken. Wie mache ich das? Vielen Dank schon im Voraus!

20.11.2022 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Debora, meinen Sie diese Masche ist die Zunahmen der vorrigen Rückreihe? Dann stricken Sie am besten die Zunahmen entweder davor oder danach und die Patentmasche wie erklärt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.11.2022 - 10:20

country flag Berlin wrote:

Hello Has anyone finished the scarf with success in this pattern? I am sorry but the diagram it has been given doesn’t look the same when I knit. Something could be missing? Is it possible to write directions more clear rather than using the diagram for the cable part? Looks like 9 rows knit then do the cable part, another 9 rows knit, then do the cable but it doesn’t look right. Anyone who worked on the scarf please?

20.01.2022 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Berlin, sure it was - you will find some projects in Ravelry for example; the first cable over 10 sts in A.2 will be worked on 7 (over the 10 middle stitches) then you will work 2 cables over each of the next 10 sts. Could this lesson help you with diagrams?

20.01.2022 - 17:20

country flag Berlin wrote:

I need help with autumn twist hat. Haven’t found a video on how to make knit from right, purl from front and purl from right knit from wrong side. I am knitting in circle so this doesn’t make any sense for me. Please help

08.12.2021 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Berlin, when working the hat, you will always work from RS, correct, this means you will knit the white squares and purl the squares with a small - so that the first st in A.1 is worked alternately K1 below/K1 and the last 3 sts in A.1 will always be purled on every round. Diagram text is also written for the diagram to the scarf that is worked in rows (with a wrong side). Happy knitting!

08.12.2021 - 15:37

country flag Dea wrote:

Buongiorno, perchè per la sciarpa dice Ferri a doppia punta? Mi sembra strano e nella spiegazione in norvegese dice di usare quelli dritti.

02.03.2021 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea, abbiamo inoltrato la sua segnalazione al settore design, se necessario, il modello verrà corretto direttamente online nei prossimi giorni. Buon lavoro!

05.03.2021 - 00:08

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Dzień dobry. Proszę mi powiedziec: schamaty przedstawiają rzędy nieparzyste (1,3,5 itd.) czy wszystkie rzędy - parzyste i nieparzyste?

25.09.2020 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko! Schematy przedstawiają wszystkie rzędy (widok na prawej stronie robótki). Jak odczytywać schematy w robótce na drutach znajdziesz TUTAJ . Pozdrawiamy!

28.09.2020 - 17:59

country flag Shel wrote:

Hi, I'm making the autumn twist hat. I'm following the pattern but my Knit One Below "stripes" look no different from the Knit "stripes". (The pattern alternates between Knit One Below and Knit after every 3 Purl stitches). Thanks.

17.09.2020 - 13:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shell, make sure to read diagram from the right towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS read more about diagrams here- and work the 1st stitch in A.1 (= the knit 1 below) as shown in this video - knit below from RS and purl this stitch from WS. Happy knitting!

17.09.2020 - 16:25

country flag Tom Erik wrote:

Feil i 3. diagramikon? Det skal vel være "1 rett i masken under/ fra forrige pinne".

31.08.2019 - 17:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tom Erik. Ja, her var det blitt lagt til feil tekst til 3. ikon. Riktig tekst skal være: = strikk 1 maske rett i masken under neste maske – denne masken kalles nå patentmaske. Dette er nå ordnet, takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på feilen. mvh Drops Design

02.09.2019 - 12:53

country flag Marit Louise Jordhøy wrote:

Hvilken lengde pa rundpinne bor jeg bruke pa dette skjerfet?

19.08.2019 - 09:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marit Louise! DROPS RUNDPINNE NR 10, lengde på 60 cm! God fornøjelse!

08.10.2019 - 21:31

country flag Isabelle Tonetti wrote:

Magnifique

30.07.2019 - 18:33