DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 90.15CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Purple Persuasion

Knitted shawl in DROPS Kid-Silk and DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked diagonally with garter stitch and speckled stripes.

DROPS 203-22
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-160
Yarn group A + A + A or D
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SIZE:
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 55 cm = 21 5/8”.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 170 cm = 66 3/4”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 02, black
50 g color 10, grey
25 g color 09, light lavender
25 g color 22, ash grey
And use:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g color 517, medium grey
50 g color 2020, light camel
50 g color 3800, old pink
50 g color 4010, light lavender


KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with garter stitch with 2 strands Kid-Silk and 1 strand Alpaca (= 3 strands) = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10,75: Length 80 cm = 32” for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 90.15CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

SPECKLED STRIPES:
KS = Kid-Silk. A = Alpaca.
The height of the stripes is measured in the knitting direction (23 cm = 9” as described below is equivalent to approx. 25 ridges in height with the correct knitting gauge).
The stripes are worked as follows:
23 cm = 9” with 1 strand light lavender KS + 1 strand grey KS + 1 strand light camel A.
23 cm = 9” with 1 strand ash grey KS + strand grey KS + 1 strand light lavender A.
23 cm = 9” with 1 strand ash grey KS + 1 strand grey KS + 1 strand medium grey A.
23 cm = 9” with 1 strand black KS + 1 strand grey KS + 1 strand medium grey A.
23 cm = 9” (or to finished length) with 1 strand black KS + 1 strand grey KS + 1 strand old pink A.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
To have room for all the stitches, the piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from the tip on the one side of the shawl and outwards. The whole shawl is worked in garter stitch with 2 strands Kid-Silk and 1 strand Alpaca.

SHAWL:
Cast on 3 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and 1 strand light lavender Kid-Silk + 1 strand grey Kid-Silk + 1 strand light camel Alpaca (= 3 strands). Knit 1 row from the right side.
Then work GARTER STITCH and SPECKLED STRIPES – read descriptions above, at the same time as you increase as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 5 stitches.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Knit 2 together, work until there is 1 stitch left on the row, make 1 yarn over and knit 1.
ROW 4 (right side): Knit.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1.
Repeat rows 2- 5 until the stripes are finished or to desired length.
Bind off as described below.

BINDING OFF:
Bind off with knit from the right side as follows: Knit 2, * insert the left needle into the 2 stitches on the right needle from left to right and knit together, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left. Cut the strands and pull them through the remaining stitch. Binding off like this makes the edge elastic. Fasten all strands.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Michèle wrote:

Ma question n’a pas été comprise je crois. Lors de la diminution nous diminuons sur les rangs pairs mais est-ce que nous tricotons les rangs impairs comme au début ?

31.10.2023 - 20:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Michèle, je ne comprends effectivement pas votre question, les rangs impairs soit les rangs 3 et 5 se tricotent différemment: au rang 3, on diminue au début du rang et on augmente à la fin du rang (le nombre de mailles reste le même) et au rang 5, on augmente à la fin du rang. Les rangs pairs se tricotent à l'endroit. Et vous répétez les rangs 2 à 5 tout le temps. Est-ce plus clair ou pouvez-vous nous indiquer ce qui vous préoccupe?

01.11.2023 - 15:05

country flag Michèle wrote:

Lorsque nous diminuons nous procédons comment, rang on fait la diminution et les rangs envers on suit le patron ?

31.10.2023 - 04:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Michèle, vous répétez les rangs 2 à 5, autrement dit, vous diminuez au début du rang 3 et en même temps, vous augmentez à la fin du rang 3; et vous augmentez à la fin du rang 5. Les rangs 2 et 4 se tricotent à l'endroit sans augmenter ni diminuer. Bon tricot!

31.10.2023 - 16:00

country flag Gunilla wrote:

Jag förstår inte heller hur det kan bli en trekant när man bara ökar hela tiden. Ska man aldrig avmaska på samma sätt som man har ökat när man har fått den så bred man vill ha den?

19.03.2023 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gunilla. Jo, det blir et trekantig sjal om du følger oppskriften. Strikk en liten prøvelapp og du vil fort se at det blir trekantig. mvh DROPS Design

20.03.2023 - 13:41

country flag Suzanne Ruel wrote:

Combien de mailles faut-il monter pour faire ce châle?

05.10.2022 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ruel, on monte 3 mailles pour commencer le châle - cf CHÂLE: Monter 3 mailles avec l'aiguille circulaire 7 et 1 fil Kid-Silk lavande clair + 1 fil Kid-Silk gris + 1 fil Alpaca chameau clair (= 3 fils). - et réponse ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

06.10.2022 - 08:02

country flag Suzanne, Ruel wrote:

Combien de mailles faut-il monter pour faire ce modèle? À moins qu’il faille augmenter jusqu’à obtenir le nombre de mailles qu’il faut?! Je ne comprends pas votre manière de procéder.

05.10.2022 - 00:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ruel, ce châle se tricote en commençant par une des pointes, en diagonale jusqu'à l'autre pointe, montez 3 mailles et augmentez tous les rangs sur l'envers (on répète les rangs 2 à 5) et tous les 4 rangs sur l'envers (à chaque fois que vous tricotez le rang 3), vous diminuez au début du rang. En même temps, tricotez les rayures mentionnées. Bon tricot!

05.10.2022 - 08:15

country flag Kathie BERGER wrote:

I am struggling with the instructions for row 3: this works fine with an odd number of stitches but not for even numbers as there is never just one stitch left to complete the instructions.EG. WIth 5 stitches, if you knit 2 then 2, 1 is left to complete the instructions but with 6, you knit 2 together then 2 together and then there are 2 left. I am completely lost. (Sorry I am a beginner). Please help.

24.09.2022 - 01:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Berger, you will always increase 2 sts by working row 5 (2 sts at the end of the row from WS), but when working row 3 you won't increase: you decrease 1 st at the beg of the row then increase 1 st at the end of the row (before the last stitch) = the number of sts remain the same; when working row 5, work until 2 sts remain and finish the row with YO, K1, YO, K1 (you increase 2 sts). Happy knitting!

26.09.2022 - 09:04

country flag Åsa wrote:

Förstår inte hur sjalen blir trekantig, alltså får likadan spets i båda ändarna

19.02.2022 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Åsa. Om du gjentar 2.-5. pinne vil du få et trekantet sjal. Ikke 100% lik i hver side, men et trekantet sjal. mvh DROPS Design

21.02.2022 - 13:01

country flag Hanna wrote:

Jag förstår inte avmaskningsinstruktionen. Hur många varv kommer det ta innan man har maskat av alla maskor? Ska man sticka enligt *-* genom hela varvet och sen igen när man är på rättsida?

02.10.2019 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Det tar bara ett varv att maska av dem, se gärna denna video där vi visar hur man gör. Lycka till!

03.10.2019 - 10:42

country flag Annesophie T wrote:

Je souhaiterais faire ce modèle mais sans varier les couleurs, quelle quantité de kidsilk et alapca acheter?

07.08.2019 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annesophie, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, comme ce modèle a été tricoté avec des rayures, nous avons seulement la quantité totale pour chaque couleur. Vous pouvez additionner toutes les couleurs pour avoir une idée de la quantité totale. Votre magasin DROPS pourra fort probablement vous aider si besoin. Bon tricot!

07.08.2019 - 12:50