DROPS Ull-Tweed
DROPS Ull-Tweed
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

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Knitted sweater for women, men and kids in DROPS Angora-Tweed with structure pattern. Women's sizes S/M - M/L. Men's sizes S/M - XXL. Kid's sizes 2 - 13/14 years.

DROPS 59-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no i-002
Yarn group B
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SIZE WOMEN AND MEN:
Numbers in ( ) = men's sizes
S/M - M/L (S/M - M/L - L/XL - XXL)

MATERIALS WOMEN AND MEN:
DROPS ANGORA-TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-700 (750-800-900-1000) g. Col. 11, beige

KNITTING TENSION WOMEN AND MEN:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES WOMEN AND MEN:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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SIZE KIDS:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - (9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14) years

MATERIALS KIDS:
DROPS ANGORA-TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-400-400 (450-500-550) g. Col. 11, beige

KNITTING TENSION KIDS:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES KIDS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Ull-Tweed
DROPS Ull-Tweed
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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START THE PIECE WOMEN AND MEN:

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN WOMEN AND MEN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2.

RIB:
* knit 2 / purl 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

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Body: Numbers in ( ) = men's sizes. Cast on 244-260 (248-264-276-288) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 5-5 (6-6-6-6) cm rib. Change to larger circular needles and knit 2 rows garter st, then repeat Pattern 1. When the work measures 35-38 (42-43-45-47) cm , knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 118-126 (120-128-134-140) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 118-126 (120-128-134-140) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 118-126 (120-128-134-140) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 2 sts 2-2 (1-2-2-2) times, 1 st 2-4 (2-2-4-4) times = 106-110 (112-116-118-124) sts. When the work measures 49-53 (57-59-60-63) cm , bind off the center 10-10 (12-12-12-12) sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 2-2 (2-2-2-2) times, 2 sts 4-4 (4-4-4-4) times, 1 st 3-4 (4-4-5-5) times. At the same time, when the work measures approx. 49-53 (57-59-61-64) cm , knit Pattern 2 (adjust for complete Pattern 1) to finished dimensions. Bind off. The work measures approx. 60-64 (68-70-72-75) cm .

Back: = 118-126 (120-128-134-140) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 106-110 (112-116-118-124) sts. When the work measures 49-53 (57-59-61-64) cm , knit Pattern 2 (adjust for complete Pattern 1) to finished dimensions. At the same time, when the work measures 58-62 (66-68-70-73) cm , bind off the center 40-42 (44-44-46-46) sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row. Bind off after Pattern 2. The work measures approx. 60-64 (68-70-72-75) cm .

Sleeves: Cast on 52-56 (56-56-56-60) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 5-5 (6-6-6-6) cm . Change to larger double pointed needles and knit 2 rows garter st, then repeat Pattern 1. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 27-27 (27-29-29-29) times:
Sizes S/M+M/L (M/L+XL+XXL): every 4th row
(Size S/M): alternately every 4th and every 5th row
= 106-110 (110-114-114-118) sts. At the same time, when the work measures approx. 42-43 (46-47-48-49) cm , knit Pattern 2 (adjust for complete Pattern 1) to finished dimensions, centering the repeat on the sleeve. When 18-20 (14-18-20-20) rows of Pattern 2 remain (the work measures approx. 47-47 (52-52-52-53) cm , bind off 2 sts each side of the marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve caps each side every other row: 4-4 (5-4-4-4) sts 8-9 (6-8-9-9) times. Bind off after Pattern 2. The work measures approx. 53-54 (57-58-59-60) cm .

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 124-136 sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller needles. Knit back and forth on the needles from the center front: 2 rows garter st, then rib as follows: 1 edge st (knit in garter st throughout), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from * - * until 3 sts remain, K 2, 1 edge st (knit in garter st throughout). At the same time as the ribbing, inc 1 st (on the inside of the edge sts) every 3rd row at each side at the center front. Bind off when the neck edge measures 7 cm . Bind off loosely in ribbing. Lay the left part of the neck edge over the right and sew together on each side of the center front. Sew on the sleeves.

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START THE PIECE KIDS:

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN KIDS:

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2.

RIB:
* knit 2 / purl 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

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Body: Cast on 156-168-180-192 (204-220-228) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4-4-4-4 (5-5-5) cm rib. Change to larger circular needles and knit 2 rows garter st, then repeat Pattern 1. When the work measures 27-28-30-33 (34-35-37) cm , knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 74-80-86-92 (98-106-110) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 74-80-86-92 (98-106-110) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 74-80-86-92 (98-106-110) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2-2 (2-3-3) times, 1 st 3-2-2-2 (4-3-3) times = 60-68-74-80 (82-88-92) sts. When the work measures approx. 30-34-37-42 (44-46-49) cm , knit Pattern 2 (adjust for complete Pattern 1), beginning at the appropriate arrow on the chart. When the work measures 33-37-40-44 (46-48-51) cm , bind off the center 8-8-8-8 (10-10-10) sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 1-3-3-3 (3-3-3) times, 1 st 4-3-3-4 (3-4-4) times. Bind off after Pattern 2 is complete. The work measures 41-45-48-53 (55-57-60) cm .

Back: = 74-80-86-92 (98-106-110) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 60-68-74-80 (82-88-92) sts. When the work measures 30-34-37-42 (44-46-49) cm , knit Pattern 2 (adjust for complete Pattern 1), beginning at the appropriate arrow on the chart. When the work measures 39-43-46-51 (53-55-58) cm , bind off the center 28-34-34-36 (36-38-38) sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row. Bind off after Pattern 2 is complete. The work measures approx. 41-45-48-53 (55-57-60) cm .

Sleeves: Cast on 40-40-44-44 (48-48-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 4-4-4-4 (5-5-5) cm . Change to larger double pointed needles and knit 2 rows garter st, then Pattern 1. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 9-16-16-20 (20-22-22) times:
Size 2 years: every 6th row
Sizes 3/4 + 7/8 + 11/12 years: every 4th row
Sizes 5/6 + 9/10 + 13/14 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row
= 58-72-76-84 (88-92-96) sts. At the same time, when the work measures approx. 21-24-28-31 (36-38-42) cm , knit Pattern 2 (adjust for complete Pattern 1) centering the pattern on the sleeve. When 18-18-18-18 (20-20-20) rows of Pattern 2 remain (the work measures approx. 26-29-33-36 (40-42-46) cm ), bind off 2 sts each side of the marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve caps each side every other row: 2-3-3-3 (3-3-3) sts 8-8-8-8 (9-9-9) times. Bind off after Pattern 2. The work measures 32-35-39-42 (47-49-53) cm .

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 104-124 sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller needles and knit back and forth on the needles from the center front: 2 rows garter st, then rib as follows: K 1 (edge st, kept in garter st throughout), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from * - * until 3 sts remain, K 2, K 1 (edge st, kept in garter st throughout). At the same time inc 1 st on the inside of the edge sts every 3rd row on each side at the center front. Bind off when the neck edge measures 5-5-6-6 (6.5-6.5-6.5) cm . Bind off loosely in rib. Lay the left part of the neck edge over the right and sew on each side of the center front. Sew on the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = adult
symbols = child
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Menard wrote:

Je découvre pour le moment

04.12.2023 - 20:19

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Hallo, ich habe jetzt folgendes Problem: gestrickt wurde ja die Größe XL. Die Größen stimmen genau für Rumpf-, Vorder-, und Rückenteil. Leider sind der Armausschnitt und die Ärmel viel zu groß. Was kann ich machen?

28.02.2023 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, gerne können Sie sich von einem heutigen Modell mit der selben Maschenprobe inspirieren, um die Armausschnitte sowie die Ärmel anzupassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.02.2023 - 11:14

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Hallo, Ich bin jetzt beim Ärmel. Für die Größe soll ich 56 Maschen aufnehmen und nach 2 Reihen Kraus rechts 2× 29 Maschen abnehmen? Wieso habe ich dann danach 114 M ? Es müssen also Maschen zugenommen werden?! Sicher ein Schreibfehler?

02.02.2023 - 22:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, nach den 2 Krausrippen stricken Sie das Muster und dann nehmen Sie unter der Ärmel 2 Maschen (1 Masche beidseitig von der Rundbeginn) insgesamt 29 Mal in jeder 4. Runde. So sind es: 56 Maschen + (2 Maschen x 29) = 114 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.02.2023 - 08:32

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Hallo nettes Dropes-Team, ich komme einfach nicht mit dem Kragen weiter. Ich stricke Hin- und Rückreihen, nehme auch die Maschen in jeder 3. Reihe, rechts vor der Kraus re und links nach der Kraus re, zu. Auf dem Foto von dem Pullover sieht es so aus, als wenn die Zunahmen nach unten zeigen, bei mir gehen die Zunahmen nach oben rechts, bzw. links. Ich würde gerne ein Foto senden, damit ihr wisst, was ich meine.

29.01.2023 - 21:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, beim Kragen soll man 1 Masche beidseitig innerhalb die Randmaschen zunehmen, diese Seite werden dann sich überlappen und an der Halskante genäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.01.2023 - 09:29

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Ich verstehe leider auch die ganzen Zahlen unter Muster 2 (M2) nicht. Können Sie mir die erklären?

25.01.2023 - 14:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, die Zahlen unter M.2 sind nur für den Kinder-Pullover, die zeigen wo M.2 angefangen wird - sollten Sie den Mann-Pullover stricken, dann stricken Sie enfach wie in der Anleitung beschrieben. Viel spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2023 - 16:53

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Hallo, DROPS 59-1 DROPS Design: Modell Nr. i-002 Vielen Dank für die Antwort. Meine nächste Frage geht um M2. Warum hat man 118 Maschen auf der Nadel, der Rapport umfasst aber 10 Maschen? Dann hat man ja für einen Rapport nur 8 Maschen zur Verfügung. Dann heißt es, ein Rapport soll hinten mittig sein. Genau in der Mitte? Warum wird das extra erwähnt? Irgendwann kommt man doch sowieso in die Mitte?! Freue mich auf eine Antwort. Mit freundlichem Gruß Anke Keil

22.01.2023 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, also M.2 soll am besten genau in der Mitte platziert, damit das Muster symmetrisch wird - diese Lektion kann Ihnen damit helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.01.2023 - 10:05

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Hallo, DROPS 59-1 DROPS Design: Modell Nr. i-002 Ich verstehe nicht, wie man M1 und M2 kombiniert, bzw. wird angepasst? Oder ist das Muster M1 beendet, sobald man mit M2 beginnt? Können Sie mir weiterhelfen? Mit freundlichem Gruß Anke Keil

19.01.2023 - 00:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, hier sollen Sie nach einem ganzen Rapport M.1 anpassen, dh M.1 stricken Sie bis die letze Reihe (es kann dann so ein paar Reihen mehr oder weniger sein), dann stricken Sie M.2. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.01.2023 - 10:59

country flag Anke Keil wrote:

Sehr geehrte Damen und Herren, wegen der Maschenprobe muss ich das Rippenmuster mit 3,5 statt wie angegeben in 2,5 stricken. Laut Anleitung soll aber nach dem Bündchen (2,5) in Krausrippe mit 3,5 gestrickt werden. Zu welcher Nadelstärke soll ich denn nun wechseln? Ich bin ja schon mit 3,5 angefangen? Die Maschenproben sollen ja nur für glatt rechts und das Rippenmuster gemacht werden oder? Mit freundlichen Grüßen Anke

25.11.2022 - 22:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, Maschenprobe wird mit Nadeln Nr 3,5 glatt rechts gestrickt (21 M x 28 Reihe glatt rechts); Anschlag und Rippenmuster wird mit kleineren Nadeln 2,5 gestrickt und dann Muster (M.1, M.2) mit den grösseren Nadeln gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 - 08:51

country flag Susan Leicester wrote:

Thank you so much for such a speedy response! Sl

26.09.2019 - 16:28

country flag Susan J Leicester wrote:

I've just started knitting this super sweater for my son-in-law. Is Pattern 1 the 4 stitch and 12 row pattern and is Pattern 2 the other one? This is not very clear. Thank you.

25.09.2019 - 16:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Leicester, pattern-1 is the diagram called M.1 and pattern-2 is the diagram called M.2 (on the left side). Happy knitting!

25.09.2019 - 16:58