DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 204-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-682
Yarn group E or C + C
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
550-550 g colour 85, curry
50 g colour 57, navy blue

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 – 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
150-150 g colour 85, curry
50 g colour 57, navy blue

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
11 stitches in width and 18 rows in height with pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

SCARF:

SIZE:
The piece measures approx.: Width = 32 cm. Length = 164 cm without fringes (200 cm with 18 cm long fringes).

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
400 g colour 85, curry
50 g colour 57, navy blue


KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10.
10 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS NEEDLES/CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM: Length 60 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
Hat: See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
Scarf: See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 64 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 6.4. 
In this example decrease by knitting alternately each 5th and 6th and each 6th and 7th stitch together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 64-68 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm and Snow. Purl 1 round then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 11 cm. Change to circular needle size 8 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 10-12 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 54-56 stitches. Work A.1 in the round for 13-14 cm – adjust so you finish after the last round in the diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. Now begin to decrease: Work 0-2 stitches of A.1 as before, * A.2 (= 11 stitches), A.3 (= 7 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 3 times in width. When the diagrams have been completed there are 18-20 stitches left on the round. Knit 1 round where all stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 9-10 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 32-33 cm (approx. 25-26 cm with 7 cm fold).

POM-POM:
Make a large, loose pom-pom of approx. 12 cm in diameter with 6 strands curry and 1 strand navy blue. Sew the pom-pom to the top of the hat.

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SCARF – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle.

SCARF:
Cast on 32 stitches with circular needle size 9 mm and Snow. Purl 1 row then work pattern A.1 back and forth. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 164 cm, cast off – make sure the cast-off edge is not tight.

FRINGES:
Make 11 fringes for each end of the scarf. The scarf in the picture has 7 fringes with curry and 4 fringes with 1 strand of each colour. To allow the fringes to hang neatly, dampen them, shake them and allow them to dry.
1 FRINGE: Cut 2 strands Snow each 36 cm long. Fold them double, thread the loop from the right side through the outermost stitch on the cast-off edge. Then pull the strand-ends through the loop and tighten carefully. Make 10 more fringes in the same way and fasten evenly along the cast-off edge. Repeat along the cast-on edge.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Annette wrote:

Re previous question & answer. Do I only work the first 11/7 stitches from each chart? Or do I alternate 11 from A2 and 7 from A3 until I complete the entire chart? The first 11 stitches from A2 have no decreases. The first 7 from A3 has 1 decrease of 2 stitches (k3 tog). Each decrease in the charts is 2 stitches (k3tog) so I can only decrease in even numbers. I can't get 5 & 1 decreased x 3. Do I complete each chart 3 times to get the 36 stitch decrease? Appears I need more specific guidance

03.03.2023 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anette, round 1 of A.2 has 11 stitches and round 1 of A.3 has 7 stitches. On the first round work: the first 2 stitches of A.1, A.2, A.3, A.2, A.3, A.2, A.3. On the next round, you will work round 2 of the charts in the same order: 2 stitches of A.1, A.2, A.3, A.2, A.3, A.2 and A.3. In row 3 of A.2 and A.3 you will decrease 2 stitches for each A.2 and each A.3 on the round. Since there are 3 A.2 and 3 A.3, you are decreasing 12 stitches on the round. You have 3 rounds with decreases in both charts so, after finishing charts A.2 and A.3, you should have decreased 36 stitches. Happy knitting!

05.03.2023 - 21:23

country flag Annette wrote:

Confused on hat decreases. Do I work 11 stitches from A2 then 7 from A3, then move to next 11 stitches from A2 & next 7 from A3, etc. "for a total of 3 times in width" (I don't understand this statement). If I work a total of 33 from A2 & 21 from A3 I don't end up with the 20 stitches that I should and I never complete either chart. Please help

03.03.2023 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Annette, you will now decrease for top of hat as shown in both diagrams, this means you will work *A.2 (= 11 sts), A.3 (= 7 sts)* (= a total of 18 sts) and repeat these 18 stitches to the end of the round (3 times = 3 x 18 = 54 sts). Decrease just as shown in diagrams A.2 and A.3 so that there should be 5 sts in A.2 and 1 st in A.3 when diagrams are done (= (5+1)x3 = 18 sts in total). Happy knitting!

03.03.2023 - 16:21

country flag Géraldine GOBERT wrote:

Bonjour, je tricote une écharpe devant modèle, dans la laine est drops snow 100% laine la même que le modèle. Le problème est que la laine peluche partout, auriez-vous une astuce pour éviter cela? Merci passez de bonnes fêtes

20.12.2022 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gobert, il est naturel que la laine peluche, car ce sont des fibres naturelles, au bout d'un moment ce processus diminue (quand les fibres plus lâchement filées sont parties), mais ceci varie aussi en fonction également des frottements. Bon tricot!

21.12.2022 - 08:27

country flag Vicki Grierson wrote:

Hello, I love this pattern but unfortunately I don't love the Snow yarn. It feels much cheaper and rougher than your other yarns I have knitted up. However I shall persevere and finish the two accessories. M.y question is that the band says do not use fabric conditioner. Is there a reason why not as I have thought of using some to soften the scarf and hat? The other yarn I am using, Wish, is absolutely beautiful and so soft. I wish Snow was like Wish! Many thanks, Vicki

16.03.2022 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vicki, you shouldn't use fabric softener at all on any wool yarns. For wool it is recommended to use detergent that is meant for wool. So no fabric softener at all on wool yarns (both Snow, Wish, merino yarns etc). Happy knitting! Fabric softener destroys the wool fibres and ruins the shape stability

17.03.2022 - 11:15

country flag Novella wrote:

La sciarpa preferisco lavorarla coi ferri lineari. In questo caso il diagramma A1 si lavora a ferri di andata e ritorno (1 riga dx-sx e 2 riga sx-dx) oppure essendo fatto ai ferri circolari si deve leggere ogni riga sempre da dx a sx? Non mi è molto chiaro. Grazie.

09.12.2020 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Novella, la sciarpa si lavora in piano anche sui ferri circolari, per cui il diagramma si legge da destra a sinistra per i ferri di andata e da sinistra a destra per i ferri di ritorno. Buon lavoro!

09.12.2020 - 17:56

country flag Nanna wrote:

Hej. Jeg er ved at strikke huen. Og jeg kan ikke få mønsteret til at passe efter den første indtagning. Hvordan kan det være at diagrammet siger at der skal strikkes vrang oven på indtagningerne. Men også siger at man skal strikke ret oven på de indtagede masker som ikke er der mere? (Det ligner jeg har 3 ret masker på linje på pinden efter indtagningen, og næste række rib passer derfor ikke?)

20.02.2020 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nanna, Jo da du altid tager 2 masker ind på en gang, så kan du også altid fortsætte med 1 vrang over 1 ret og omvendt. God fornøjelse!

21.02.2020 - 08:35

country flag Déborah Bellanger wrote:

Bonjour je viens de tricoter ce bonnet,(204-2) et de l offrir a ma maman, elle me demande si ce point (A1) a un nom.merci

27.11.2019 - 04:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bellanger, c'est une variation du point de blé, vous trouverez ici , comment lire un diagramme. Bon tricot!

27.11.2019 - 08:23

country flag Ghislaine DesGagné wrote:

Le 1er rg doit se tricoter à l'envers, ce qui m'amène au rg 2 qui devra lui aussi être à l'envers? J'imagine que je commence le diagramme A1 au 3ième rg? Les rgs envers doivent se faire comment? Merci

27.11.2019 - 03:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme DesGagné, pour l'écharpe, on commence par 1 rang en mailles envers = ce rang sera le 1er rang sur l'envers. On va donc commencer le diagramme A.1 par le 1er rang et ce sera un rang sur l'endroit. Répétez ensuite les 6 rangs de A.1 en hauteur. Vous trouverez ici comment lire des diagrammes. Bon tricot!

27.11.2019 - 08:10

country flag Carmen wrote:

Muchas gracias. Ya lo he entendido. Me había ofuscado con eso de empezar el esquema por el revés de la labor. En realidad, a efectos visuales la primera pasada del revés equivaldría a una pasada 3 del esquema. 🤯🤯 !!!! Gracias Mil

18.11.2019 - 16:13

country flag Carmen wrote:

He empezado la bufanda: “ trabajar 1 fila del revés, después trabajar el patrón A.1”. Si el diagrama es visto del derecho y la labor está del lado del revés, significa que hay que leer el esquema de izda. A dcha. , en lugar de dcha. a izda. ? O hacer 2 filas del revés al inicio para seguir el esquema : filas impares derecho de la labor, filas pares revés de la labor. Espero haberme explicado!!! Saludos

15.11.2019 - 20:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carmen. Si, esta bufanda se comienza con una fila de revés para tener un borde más firme, pero esto no afecta al trabajar el diagrama. Se trabaja una fila de revés y después se empieza a trabajar la 1ª fila del diagrama, de derecho. El diagrama se lee como siempre de derecha a izquierda.

17.11.2019 - 19:05