DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Easy Motion Cardigan

Knitted jacket with stripes in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé. Piece is knitted top down with raglan. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 199-39
DROPS design: Pattern ab-096
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 0100, off white
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 7402, light sea green

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm – for garter stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm : Length 60 or 80 cm for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 90 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 22.5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 22nd and 23rd stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

STRIPES:
Work 2 cm with off white in all sizes, work 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm with light sea green, work 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm off white and work 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm with light sea green. Then work the rest of piece in off white in all sizes.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch in each side of 1 stitch in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes. Decrease first buttonhole straight after ridges in the neck (piece measures approx. 2 cm). Then decrease the next 4-4-4-5-5-5 approx. 8 cm between each buttonhole.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 90-98-106-110-110-114 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with off white. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm, knit 1 row from right side while increasing 4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1. = 94-102-110-114-114-118 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side with 3 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, in each side.
Insert 4 marker threads in piece (without working the stitches): Insert 1st marker thread in 20th-21st-23rd-24th-25th-26th stitch on row, insert 2nd marker thread in 31st-34th-36th-37th-36th-37th stitch on needle, insert 3rd marker thread in 64th-69th-75th-78th-79th-82nd stitch on needle and insert 4th marker thread in 75th-82nd-88th-91st-90th-93rd stitch on needle. There are now 19-20-22-23-24-25 stitches between stitches with marker thread on each front piece, 32-34-38-40-42-44 stitches on back piece and 10-12-12-12-10-10 stitches on each sleeve. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
Work next row as follows from right side: 3 band stitches in garter stitch, stocking stitch over the next 16-17-19-20-21-22 stitches, increase 1 stitch on each side of 1st marker thread for RAGLAN – see explanation above, work stocking stitch over the next 10-12-12-12-10-10 stitches on sleeve, increase 1 stitch on each side of 2nd marker thread, work stocking stitch over the 32-34-38-40-42-44 stitches on back piece, increase 1 stitch on each side of 3rd marker thread, work stocking stitch over the 10-12-12-12-10-10 stitches on sleeve, increase 1 stitch on each side of 4th marker thread, work stocking stitch over the next 16-17-19-20-21-22 stitches on front piece and finish with 3 band stitches in garter stitch.

Then work STRIPES - read explanation above - and stocking stitch with band stitches in garter stitch and increase for raglan at every marker thread as follows:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 19-20-21-24-27-30 times in total (first increase is already done).
Then increase 1 more time but only on sleeves as follows: Increase 1 stitch after 1st marker and 1 stitch before 2nd marker, increase 1 stitch after 3rd marker and 1 stitch before 4th marker. The increase has been done 20-21-22-25-28-31 times on sleeves.
There are 250-266-282-310-334-362 stitches on row and piece measures approx. 20-21-22-25-27-30 cm from cast-on edge (measured mid front).
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work the first 39-41-44-48-52-56 stitches as before (= right front piece), slip the next 50-54-56-62-66-72 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 72-76-82-90-98-106 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 50-54-56-62-66-72 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 39-41-44-48-52-56 stitches as before. Finish body and sleeves separately. Remove the marker threads in piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 162-170-186-202-222-242 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under each sleeve and move the marker threads upwards when working. Continue back and forth in stocking stitch with 3 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 2 cm from division, increase 2 stitches in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 3½ cm 7 times in total in all sizes = 190-198-214-230-250-270 stitches. When piece measures 30-31-32-29-31-30 cm from division, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 3 ridges, switch back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off by knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 50-54-56-62-66-72 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 56-60-64-70-76-84 stitches on round. Work in stocking stitch in the round. Insert a marker mid under sleeve. When piece measures 2 cm in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-7th-6th-5th-4th-3rd round 7-8-9-11-12-13 times in total = 42-44-46-48-52-58 stitches on round. Work until piece measures 29-29-28-26-24-22 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work 3 ridges. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm and cast off by knitting.
Work the other sleeve the same way.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (3)

country flag Silvana wrote:

Modello molto bello ma le maglie aumentate nelle maniche bisogna lavorarle nel giro successivo

30.01.2022 - 21:36

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvana, a quale passaggio sta facendo riferimento? Buon lavoro!

31.01.2022 - 23:32

country flag Josee Gaudet wrote:

Hallo, in het patroon staat er dat voor het meerderen in de pas je moet markeerdraden plaatsen in de steek. Maar markeerdraden zijn toch altijd tussen twee steken en niet ‘in’ een steek? Ook in jullie video’s zijn de markeerdraden tussen twee steken... en als ik gewoon markeerders gebruik, hoeveel steken moeten er zijn tussen alle markeerders?

19.11.2019 - 09:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Josee,

Vaak zit een markeerdraad inderdaad tussen 2 steken, maar soms zit hij ook in een steek, wat bij dit patroon het geval is. Het aantal steken dat tussen de markeerdraden zit hangt van je maat af. Bij de pas staat per maat aangegeven in de hoeveelste steek je de markeerdraden plaatst.

19.11.2019 - 12:04

country flag Monika wrote:

Sehr schönes Modell. Würde ich sofort stricken.

15.01.2019 - 10:39