DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Knitted socks in DROPS Nord. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size 35 to 43

DROPS 198-18
DROPS design: Pattern no-027
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm Sock height down to heel: approx. 17-17-17 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g colour 12, powder pink

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm for stocking stitch
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches decreases are done over (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 6) = 12. 
In this example decrease by knitting every 11th and 12th stitch together.

KNITTING TIP (applies to heel):
To get a stronger heel the entire heel and heel decrease can be worked in 2 strands as follows: Use strand inside and outside of ball and work 1 stitch alternately with one and the other strand. This way you get a thicker heel without working with double strand.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 7-8-8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until 7-8-8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 6-7-7 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until 6-7-7 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
Continue decrease like this with 1 stitch less before each decrease until there are 15-15-17 stitches on needle.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCKS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

SOCK:
Cast on 72-72-81 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Nord. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 2 for 2½ cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 6-6-4 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 66-66-77 stitches.
Work A.1 in the round (= 6-6-7 repetitions of 11 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been worked, there are 60-60-70 stitches on round.
Work A.2 in the round (= 6-6-7 repetitions of 10 stitches). Work A.2 2 times in total vertically but on last round in A.2 (on last repetition with A.2 vertically) work as follows: Knit 14-13-12 and decrease at the same time 2-1-2 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 12-12-10 knit stitches), knit 27-29-31, knit 19-18-27 and decrease the the same time 4-1-6 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 15-17-21 knit stitches) = 54-58-62 stitches on round. The piece now measures approx. 17 cm from cast-on edge in all sizes.
Keep the first 12-12-10 stitches on needle, slip the next 27-29-31 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot) and keep the remaining 15-17-21 stitches on needle = 27-29-31 stitches on needle for heel.
Read KNITTING TIP and work in stocking stitch back and forth over heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm. Insert 1 marker in the middle of last row, marker should be used later to measure the length of foot.
Now work HEEL DECREASE - read explanation above. After heel decrease work next round as follows: Knit the 15-15-17 heel stitches, pick up 13-14-16 stitches along the side of heel, insert 1 marker, knit 1-2-3, work A.3A over the next 20 stitches (= 2 repetitions of 10 stitches), work A.3B (= 5 stitches), knit 1-2-3, insert 1 marker and pick up 13-14-16 stitches along the other side on heel = 68-72-80 stitches on round.
Continue pattern like this with stocking stitch and A.3 over the 25 stitches mid on top of foot.
AT THE SAME TIME decrease on each side of the 27-29-31 stitches between markers on top of foot as follows: Knit the last 2 stitches before first marker on top of foot together and knit the 2 stitches after last marker on top of foot twisted together.
Decrease like this every other round 8-8-10 times in total = 52-56-60 stitches. Then continue until piece measures approx. 18-19-21 cm from marker on heel (approx. 4-5-6 cm remain until finished measurements, try the sock on and work to desired length).
Remove the previous markers and insert 2 new markers in piece to that there are 26-28-30 stitches both on top and under foot (there should be 1 marker in each side of sock, and markers are used when decreasing for toes).
Work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches and decrease for toes on each side of both markers as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 stitches), knit 2 twisted together. Repeat at the other marker (= 4 stitches decreased on round).
Decrease like this in each side on every other round a total of 5-7-11 times and then on every round a total of 5-4-0 times = 12-12-16 stitches remain.
On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 6-6-8 stitches remain. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Sock measures approx. 22-24-27 cm from marker on heel. Work the other sock the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Vray wrote:

Bonsoir je ne comprends pas qu'il reste après le motif A1 6o mailles Alors qu'au début du motif il y a 66 m Merci pour votre aide Annick

30.05.2023 - 19:15

country flag Vray wrote:

Bonsoir je ne comprends pas qu'il reste après le motif A1 6o mailles Alors qu'au début du motif il y a 66 m Merci pour votre aide Annick

30.05.2023 - 19:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Annick, au 7ème tour de A.1 vous allez diminuer 2 mailles mais ne faire qu'un seul jeté (= 7 m end, 2 m end à l'end, 1 jeté, glisser 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passer la m glissée par-dessus la maille tricotée) = il reste 10 m dans chaque A.1 soit 60 mailles au total. Bon tricot!

31.05.2023 - 08:14

country flag Anaëlle P wrote:

Bonjour, Peut-on utiliser des aiguilles circulaires pour réaliser ce modèle de chaussette ? Merci Bonne journée

19.04.2021 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anaëlle, tout à fait, vous pouvez tricoter toutes les paires de chaussettes, mitaines, moufles etc... que vous voulez en utilisant une aiguille circulaire grâce à la technique du magic loop. Bon tricot!

19.04.2021 - 11:43

country flag Hayley wrote:

Hi, thank you for your reply on 26.02. I'm a bit stuck again after finishing the heel decrease. when i pick up the 14 stitches at side of heel do i knit them? also i'm on a purl row after knitting the 15 heel stitches, does that sound right? I hope you can help, thanks again:)

03.03.2021 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Hayley, If you are on a purl round then it is better to purl the new stitches along the sides of the heel. Happy knitting!

04.03.2021 - 07:39

country flag Hayley wrote:

Hi, thank you for your last reply. One more question - Row 5 of A1 = (knit 7, knit 2 tog, 1 yo, knit 1, 1 yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked) I run out of stitches to do the last slip stitch. Do you use the yarn over as the slip stitch? Many thanks

26.02.2021 - 09:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hayley, check the number of stitches on previous round, you should decrease the sts in each A.1 only on the 7th row, this means on row 3 every yarn over should be compensated by a decrease so that there are the same number of stitches in each repeat. You can add a marker between each repeat to make sure you will have always the correct number of sts in each repeat of the diagram on the round. Happy knitting!

26.02.2021 - 11:48

country flag Hayley wrote:

Hi, I am new to lace knitted and when I have completed the A1 chart (DROPS 198-18) I have 75 stitches left on my needles. Can you tell me what i'm doing wrong? Many thanks.

22.02.2021 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hayley, on 7th row in A.1 you will decrease 1 stitch in each repeat in the round (= knit 7, knit 2 together, yarn over, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked = 9 sts remain in each repeat. A.1 is now worked over 10 sts in the round and you should have 60-70 sts in the round, hope this will help. Happy knitting!

22.02.2021 - 16:07

country flag Lily wrote:

I do not understand the paragraph AT THE SAME TIME... It follows the heel decrease. Very confusing. It sounds like the top of the sock is being decreased but that is not what the photo shows. Please assist.

19.01.2021 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lily, after you have all 68-72-80 stitches on needle you need to decrease this number of stitches to 52-56-60 stitches. You will then decrease 1 stitch on each side of the middle 27-29-31 sts for the top of foot as described, ie decrease 2 stitches on every other round a total of 8 or 10 times depending on the size. This is for the gusset and you can see that gusset on the 3rd picture for example. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

20.01.2021 - 07:36

country flag Stefanie wrote:

Insgesamt 2 x in der Höhe arbeiten, aber in der letzten Runde von A.2 (im letzten Rapport von A.2 in der Höhe) wie folgt stricken... ICH WEIß NICHT , WIE WEIT ICH NUN STRICKEN SOLL, WEIL A.3 A HAT JA DEN GLEICHEN RAPPORT AM ANFANG WIE A.2 AM ENDE, DANN SIND DIE BEIDEN ÜBEREINANDER? ODER STRICKE ICH NUR BIS ZUR 8TEN RUNDE UND NEHME DA MASCHEN AB? ICH HOFFE SIE VERSTEHEN MICH WAS ICH MEINE...

30.09.2020 - 11:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stefanie, Sie sollen die Diagramme A.2 insgesamt 2 Mal in der Höhe stricken = 2 x 16 Reihen = 32 Runden insgesamt und bei der letzten Runde der letzten A.2 nehmen Sie wie erklärt ab. Nach der Fersen werden Sie A.3 ab 1. Reihe stricken. So werden die Diagramme in der Höhe übereinander gestrickt sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.09.2020 - 14:05

country flag Lena Silverdal wrote:

Det fungerar ej att skriva ut mönstret! Tråkigt

13.06.2019 - 16:37

country flag Lois Egenes wrote:

I am going to learn how to knit something other than vanilla sock.

05.06.2019 - 19:36