DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 6.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Spring Melt Top

Knitted top with round yoke in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and short sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 199-42
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-293
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 17, white

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm, 60 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM: for garter stitch edges.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 60 and 80 cm for garter stitch edges.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 6.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 144 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 4) = 36. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after each 36th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing knit approx. each 35th and 36th stitch together.


DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. NOTE! There are different numbers of repeats of A.1 on the yoke in the different sizes. In sizes S, XL and XXXL there is an even number of repeats of A.1 and the pattern is the same on front and back pieces. In sizes M, L and XXL there is an odd number of repeats and the pattern therefore is displaced by half a repeat on the back piece and the pattern differs on the front and back pieces.

TOP:
YOKE:
Cast on 144-148-153-161-168-173 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Safran. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Then knit 1 round where the number of stitches is adjusted to 140-150-150-160-170-180 stitches (i.e. in sizes S, L and XL decrease 4-3-1 stitches and in sizes M, XXL and XXXL increase 2-2-7 stitches) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Knit 1 round. Now work pattern as follows: Work A.1 (= 10 stitches) a total of 14-15-15-16-17-18 times on the round. Continue like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been completed there are 308-330-330-352-374-396 stitches on the round and the piece measures approx. 14 cm from the cast-on edge. Now continue with pattern in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S, XL and XXXL:
Knit 11. Insert a marker thread here. This will now be the start of the round! Next round worked as follows: Work A.2 (= 22 stitches), A.3 over the next 88-110-132 stitches (= 4-5-6 repeats in width), A.2 over the next 66 stitches (= 3 repeats), A.3 over the next 88-110-132 stitches (= 4-5-6 repeats in width), A.2 over the remaining 44 stitches (= 2 repeats). Continue in the round like this. When A.2 has been completed work A.4 over each repeat of A.2; i.e. work 3 repeats of A.4 on both front and back pieces. When A.3 has been completed there are 328-434-504 stitches on the needle. Continue with stocking stitch and A.4 until the piece measures 15-21-25 cm.

Sizes M, L and XXL:
The next round is worked as follows: Work A.2 (= 22 stitches) over the first 44 stitches, A.3 over the next 88-88-110 stitches (=4-4-5 repeats), work the first 11 stitches in A.3, A.2 over the next 66 stitches (= 3 repeats), work the last 11 stitches in A.3, A.3 over the next 88-88-110 stitches (= 4-4-5 repeats), A.2 over the remaining 22 stitches. Continue like this. When A.2 has been completed work A.4 over each repeat of A.2, i.e. work 3 repeats of A.4 on both front and back pieces. When A.3 has been completed there are 360-396-452 stitches on the round. Continue with stocking stitch and A.4 until the piece measures 17-19-23 cm.

All sizes:
The next round is worked as follows (from the right side): Work pattern with A.4 as before over the first 24-48-48-24-48-24 stitches, knit the next 92-108-126-145-154-180 stitches and increase at the same time 6-5-9-4-15-12 stitches evenly spaced, work pattern with A.4 as before over the next 72 stitches, knit the next 92-108-126-145-154-180 stitches and increase at the same time 6-5-9-4-15-12 stitches evenly spaced, work pattern with A.4 as before over the remaining 48-24-24-48-24-48 stitches = 340-370-414-442-482-528 stitches.
Work the last row on the yoke as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 37-65-71-52-82-65 stitches, place the next 72-79-89-93-101-110 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle, work the next 98-106-118-128-140-154 stitches with pattern as before, place the next 72-79-89-93-101-110 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle, work the remaining 61-41-47-76-58-89 stitches with pattern as before.

BODY:
= 212-228-256-276-304-332 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under the sleeve on each side (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Continue in the round with stocking stitch and 3 repeats of A.4 on front and back pieces. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 5 times = 192-208-236-256-284-312 stitches. When the piece measures 17 cm – adjust so that you finish after a complete repeat of A.4 in height (there are now approx. 6 cm left to finished length), continue with stocking stitch: when the piece measures 22 cm change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 2 ridges over all stitches. Cast off, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight make 1 yarn over after each 6th stitch. Yarn overs cast off as normal stitches.

SLEEVE:
Place the 72-79-89-93-101-110 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 80-87-99-103-113-122 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round for 3 cm. Now decrease stitches mid top of sleeve as follows: Work the first 30-33-35-37-41-45 stitches, knit 2 and 2 stitches together over the next 20-20-28-28-30-32 stitches (= 10-10-14-14-15-16 stitches decreased), knit the next 30-34-36-38-42-45 stitches = 70-77-85-89-98-106 stitches. Work 2 rounds stocking stitch. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work 3 ridges. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Nagy-Sáfrán Tímea wrote:

Kedves Drops! A1es diagramnal tartok és abban kétféle jel van ami a ráhajtást ábrázolja egy teli és egy lukas ovális, viszont a jelmagyarázatban mindkettő ugyanazt jelenti, a képek alapján szintén mindkettő a következő sorban simán kötendő, hogy a helyén luk keletkezzen. Jól látom? Van különbség a kettő között, vagy fordítási hiba? Az eredeti nyelv linkjét nem látom, hogy azon ellenőrizhessem. Köszönöm a választ!

21.03.2024 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Tímea, kérem olvassa el figyelmesen a szimbólumok magyarázatát. Az egyik ráhajtást (az üres jelet) a következő sorban a minta szerint kötjük, de nem csavartan, így a helyükön lyuk keletkezik. A másik, a tele szimbólum esetében a ráhajtásokat a következő sorban csavartan kötjük, így a helyükön NEM keletkezik lyuk. Sikeres kézimunkázást!

21.03.2024 - 21:55

country flag Tanja Strupler wrote:

Was ist eine Hinreihe in Runden? Ich muss da Zunahmen machen, nach 19cm vom Mustersatz A4. Einfach eine Runde ohne Muster? Ist meine Überlegung richtig? Danke für Infos.

07.03.2024 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Strupler, Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen bzw Runden, bei diesem Modell wird man immer in Runden stricken (keine Rück-Reihe, Anleitung wird korrigiert), dh alle Reihen lesen Sie rechts nach links. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

07.03.2024 - 15:43

country flag Sylvie Macias wrote:

Je ne trouve pas le tableau des tailles. A quelles mensurations correspondent les tailles.Je trouve qu'il est difficile de se baser uniquement sur les mensurations du vêtement fini avec le tricot circulaire. Surtout quand il n'est pas précisé si on est sur le tour de poitrine ou autre. Merci

26.02.2024 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Macias, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma, ce sera ainsi plus facile de choisir votre taille (et l'aisance qui vous convient); retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

26.02.2024 - 10:07

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Ang start på bærestykke, efter A1 er strikket færdig. Strik 11m ret, A2 22m 1 gang. Ny ryger jeg så i problemer med resten af teksten, ang. rapporter i bredden ? Normalt vil man jo tage en rk af gangen, omgangen ud = 1 rapport ! Gør jeg det, har jeg 37m tilovers til sidst Hvad gør jeg galt ? Strikker str xxxl, da jeg har brugt et andet garn end det i opskriften

20.12.2023 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Connie, husk at du skal hele vejen om til mærket igen. A.2 (= 22 masker) 1 gang, A.3 over de neste 132 m (6 rapporter), A.2 (66 m= 3 rapporter), A.3 =132 m, A.2 = (44 m= 2 rapporter). 22+132+66+132+44=396 masker :)

22.12.2023 - 13:14

country flag Pharmacie wrote:

Hello to all, since I am really eager of reading this website's post to be updated daily. It carries good material.

21.10.2023 - 05:30

country flag Tina wrote:

Ind/udtagningstips er ikke i opskriften?

18.08.2023 - 12:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, tak for info, det er lagt ud nu :)

18.08.2023 - 13:18

country flag Cristina wrote:

Hi there, I have a problem with the twisted yo before the k2tog in the diagram A.1: even if I twist the yo in the next row, I get a hole. I thought it was a tension problem, but it does not happen with the yo after the SKP. So it must be because of the k2tog right after. Would it be possible to replace the yo with a lifted M1? Thanks :)

15.05.2023 - 02:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cristina, this might be a way of making the yarn over and working the next stitch - feel free to change the way of doing these black yarn overs (keeping the other as in diagram for the lace pattern). Happy knitting!

15.05.2023 - 09:02

country flag Minna Jäntti wrote:

En saa silmukkalukua täsmäämään koossa XXL. Kaarrokkeen jälkeen neuleessa on 408 silmukkaa. Missä olen tehnyt väärin?

25.05.2022 - 14:22

DROPS Design answered:

Oletko tehnyt kaikki piirrosten lisäykset? Lisäykset tehdään piirrosten mustien pilkkujen kohdalla.

31.05.2022 - 17:14

country flag Martine Bertrand wrote:

Bonjour, quelqu'un peut- il m'aider. je bloque sur la suite de mon tricot. je fais une taille M j'ai fini l'empiècement et j'en suis au tour des A2 A3 A4 mais je ne comprends pas! pour le début mes motifs sont bien a leur place (le milieu du A2, sous les 4 petits jours en croix) mais après les 88m suivantes +les 13 premières de A3 ce n'est plus centré! es ce normal? je ne pense pas ça ne fait pas beau;

30.04.2022 - 19:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bertrand, vous tricotez 2 x A.2 (= 22 m) au-dessus des 2 premiers A.1 (22 m chacun) soit 44 m au début du tour; puis vous tricotez 4 x A.3 (= 22 m chacun au-dessus des 4 A.1 suivants de 22 m chacun); puis vous tricotez les 11 premières mailles de A.3 seulement (=1/2 motif en largeur), puis 3 x A.2 , et les 11 dernières m de A.3 (= vous devez toujours être alignées car vous avez ainsi (11+66+11=4 x 22 m des A.1 précédents). et vous terminez par 4x A.3 et 1xA.2 (=15 x 22 mailles ou plus exactement: 6 x 22 m, 1 x 11m, 3 x 22 m, 1 x 11 m, 5 x 22 m. N'hésitez pas à mettre des marqueurs entre chaque diagramme pour bien vous repérer. Bon tricot!

02.05.2022 - 08:28

country flag Marie Darchy wrote:

Bonjour, je suis entrain de faire ce modèle, mais je ne souhaite pas faire le motif A4, je voulais savoir si c était possible, car je me demandais s il ne servait pas de mise en forme du tee-shirt. Je vous remercie pour votre réponse.

30.04.2022 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Darchy, A.4 correspond au point de vagues et ne modifie pas la forme du top, toutefois, le nombre de mailles du top est calculé sur la base du point de vagues (il faut plus de mailles au point de vagues qu'en jersey pour la même largeur); sur les côtés, vous augmentez comme dans A.2/A.3. Bon tricot!

02.05.2022 - 08:15