DROPS Symphony
DROPS Symphony
65% Wool, 35% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 84-10
Sizes: S - M - L - XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-108-120 cm [31.5" - 34 5/8" - 37.75" - 42.5" - 47.25"]
Hem: 66-74-82-94-106 cm [26" - 29 1/8" - 32.25" - 37" - 41.75"]
The measurements seem a little small, but the garment will be very elastic, so knit a smaller size than usual.

Materials: DROPS SYMPHONY from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-700 gr nr 07, charcoal

and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
50 gr nr 01, black (for crochet edge)

DROPS 6 mm [US 10] and 7 mm [US 10½] circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 3.5 mm [US E] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Symphony
DROPS Symphony
65% Wool, 35% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 14 sts x 20 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K 4, P 4 *, repeat * - *.

Decreasing tips (for raglan):
Dec in the transitions between the sleeves and body as follows:
From right side:
(start 3 sts before the marker): K 2 tog, K 2 (the marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
From wrong side:
(start 3 sts before the marker): P 2 tog, twisting sts (if this is too difficult, slip 2 sts, return to left needle one by one, twisting each, then P 2 tog), P 2 (the marker sits between these 2 sts), P 2 tog.

Body: Cast on 96-104-112-136-152 sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib – see instructions above. When the piece measures 4 cm change to larger circular needles and stockinette st, adjusting (inc/dec) to 92-104-114-132-148 sts evenly distributed on the first row. Place a marker for the other side = 46-52-57-66-74 sts between markers.
When the piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st at each side of both markers every 4 cm a total of 5 times = 112-124-134-152-168 sts.
When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34 cm bind off 6 sts at each side for armhole (3 sts at each side of each marker) = 50-56-61-70-78 sts remain on Body. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeve.

Sleeve: Cast on 39-41-41-43-45 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st. Change to larger double pointed needles and stockinette st, decreasing 8 sts evenly distributed on the first row = 31-33-33-35-37 sts.
When the piece measures 10-10-10-9-12 cm inc 1 st each side of marker every 3.5-3.5-3-2.5-2 cm a total of 11-11-12-15-16 times = 53-55-57-65-69 sts. When sleeve measures 48-47-47-46-46 cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker = 47-49-51-59-63 sts. Lay piece aside and knit a second sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 194-210-224-258-282 sts. Put a marker in each transition between front, back and the sleeves = 4 markers. Knit 3-1-1-0-0 rows before beginning raglan shaping.

Raglan: Dec 1 st at each side of each marker = 8 decs per row. Dec as follows – see decreasing tips above – every other row: 17-19-20-19-19 times and then every row: 0-0-0-5-7 times.

Neckband: When the piece measures 46-48-49-51-53 cm put the center 6-6-9-10-14 sts on a st holder for the neck, then dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row: 2-2-3-3-3 times.
After all raglan and neck shaping is complete 48-48-49-50-54 sts remain.

Collar: Pick up approx. 10-20 sts (incl. sts from st holder) along front neck and put all sts on larger double-pointed needles = 58-74 sts. Join and P 1 right side row, then continue in stockinette st, adjusting (inc/dec) to 56-60-64-66-68 sts on the first row. When the collar measures 5 cm change to reverse stockinette st.
When the collar measures 10 cm inc 20 sts evenly distributed on the row. Repeat inc when the piece measures 20 cm. Continue to inc 10 sts evenly distributed every 4 rows 3 times = 126-130-134-136-138 sts. Bind off when the collar measures approx. 26 cm.

Assembly: Sew under the sleeve.
Crocheted edge: Crochet a row of loops with Vivaldi around the collar and lower edge of the sleeves as follows: 1 sc in 1st st, * ch 6, skip over 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st *, repeat * - * and finish with ch 6 and 1 sl st in the 1st st at start of row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Danielle wrote:

I don’t really understand the neckband instructions. It says to put the center # stitches on a holder, but it doesn’t say the center of what (I assume it’s not across from the start of row marker as that would be at a shoulder seam). After that, am I supposed to continue knitting in the round but without those stick stitches or knit all other stitches flat or something else. Thanks

12.01.2023 - 21:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Danielle, The middle stitches on the round are placed on the thread(mid-front). So you want equal numbers of stitches at the beginning and end of the round, with the stitches on the thread between them. After placing the stitches on the thread you continue back and forth, decreasing as described for the neck . Hope this helps and happy knitting!

13.01.2023 - 07:45

country flag Cobi wrote:

Bij het breien van de panden staat 4 cm in boordsteek, breien, wisselen naar pen 7 en verder in tricotsteek. Meerder bij een hoogte van 10 cm 1 steek....... Is die 10 cm inclusief de boord, of exclusief.

18.11.2022 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Cobi,

Dit is vanaf de opzet.

20.11.2022 - 17:21

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Porque todos los modelos están explicados solo con aguja circular? Hay modelos explicados con 2 agujas sin tener que hacer conversiones? Para buscar modelos se puede filtrar por modelos a 2 agujas?

07.11.2020 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Elisabeth, la mayoría están escritos para una aguja circular para trabajar la prenda sin costuras. Además, hay ciertas prendas que, por su elevado número de puntos, no se pueden trabajar con agujas rectas. Algunos patrones se pueden adaptar a agujas rectas, puedes ver la explicación en el siguiente enlace: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=13&cid=23

19.11.2020 - 21:04

country flag Arnot McDonald wrote:

I see that I added 4 stitches to 66 and it should have been 2 stitches. Sorry 😐

02.12.2019 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hi again, if you have any questions do not hesitate to contact us. Best regards!

02.12.2019 - 17:47

country flag Arnot McDonald wrote:

In pattern for Katrine for the body I have to increase each row by 4 stitches 5 times which for size class gives me 172 stitches but the pattern says I should have 152! Can you help?

02.12.2019 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Mrs McDonald. At the beginning you have 132 stitches. Then you increase 4 stitches 5 times (20 stitches increased), so a total is 152 stitches. Happy knitting!

02.12.2019 - 17:46

country flag Bente Vedal wrote:

34 cm til armfelling på bolen i str XXL, blir ikke det beldig kort?

06.01.2019 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bente. Denne modellen er kort, du kan se på bildet at genseren går nesten kant-i-kant med bukselinningen. Så den skal altså være sånn. Det er selvfølgelig ikke noe i veien for at du strikker bolen lenger om du ønsker det, men vær da obs på at dette kan påvirke garnforbruket. God fornøyelse

09.01.2019 - 08:39

country flag SYLVIE MAREAU wrote:

Bonjour\r\nCe modèle est tricoté en 1 ou 2 fils\r\nMerci par avance

07.11.2018 - 06:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mareau, on tricote ici avec 1 fil Symphony (ou toute autre alternative - essayez notre convertisseur) - et on termine par une bordure au crochet en Vivaldi. Bon tricot!

07.11.2018 - 08:38

country flag Louise wrote:

Bonjour se chandail se tricote de bas en haut.merci

02.05.2018 - 01:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Louise, tout à fait. Bon tricot!

02.05.2018 - 11:00

country flag Veronique31 wrote:

Bonjour, J'aimerais réaliser ce pull mais au point d’alvéole... Pour l'échantillon le nbre de mailles est bon mais , normal, le nbr de rands double pour le raglan , au lieu de "Diminuer ainsi 17 fois tous les 2 rangs , si je diminue tous les 4 rangs, ça ira? Merci pour vos modèles et votre professionnalisme

20.07.2016 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, si votre nbe de rangs est plus grand en hauteur il vous faudra effectivement ajouter des rangs entre ceux des diminutions, vérifiez régulièrement les mesures de votre empiècement pour ajuster les dernières diminutions du raglan si nécessaire. Bon tricot!

21.07.2016 - 08:45

country flag Verena Fritsch wrote:

Hallo, die Anweisung lautet: Auf beiden Seiten der Markierungsfäden je eine Masche abketten = 8 abketten pro R. Unter Tipp für abketten zum Raglan steht: Von der rechten Seite: 2 rechts zusammen, 2 rechts, 1 Masche rechts abheben, 1 rechts stricken und die abgehobene über die gestrickte ziehen. Damit sind jeweils 2 Maschen abgekettelt. Dann folgt der Tipp von der linken Seite.... Meine Frage ist nun, wie komme ich beim Rundstricken überhaupt einmal von rechts uns einmal von links? Vielen Dank

03.11.2014 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Verena, zunächt gilt nur die Anweisung für die Hin-R, denn in Runden stricken Sie ja quasi immer Hin-R. Irgendwann ketten Sie aber vorne die M für den Halsausschnitt ab und stricken dann in Hin- und Rück-R weiter, die Raglanabnahmen laufen dabei noch weiter. Dann müssen Sie die Raglanabnahmen auch in Rück-R arbeiten. Die Anleitung wurde im Übrigen sprachlich gerade etwas angepasst. Ich hoffe, Sie kommen nun zurecht. Weiterhin gutes Gelingen!

05.11.2014 - 13:24