DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Spring Song

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Belle. The piece is worked top down with fan pattern and trumpet sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 202-23
DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-053
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 03, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 123 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 17.6. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 17th and 18th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

NECK:
Cast on 123-126-129-135-144-150 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Belle. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 4 rounds. Knit 1 round. Knit 1 more round where you increase 7-14-11-15-16-20 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 130-140-140-150-160-170 stitches.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round and allow it to follow your work onwards. Now work pattern A.1 (= 10 stitches) a total of 13-14-14-15-16-17 times in width on the round. When A.1 has been completed in height there are 169-182-182-195-208-221 stitches on the round (and a marker thread in each repeat of A.1). Knit 5 stitches, remove the marker thread from the beginning of the round and insert it here (i.e. the beginning of the round has now been moved 5 stitches to the left). Remove the other marker threads from the piece. Now work pattern A.2 (= 13 stitches) a total of 13-14-14-15-16-17 times on the round. NOTE: the fans should be in between the fans from the previous round. When A.2 has been completed in height there are 208-224-224-240-256-272 stitches on the round (and 1 marker thread in each repeat of A.2). Knit 7 stitches, remove the marker thread from the beginning of the round and insert it here (i.e. the beginning of the round has now been moved 7 stitches to the left). Remove the other marker threads from the piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now work pattern A.3 (= 16 stitches) a total of 13-14-14-15-16-17 times on the round. NOTE: the fans should be in between the fans from the previous round. When A.3 has been completed in height there are 221-238-238-255-272-289 stitches on the round (and 1 marker thread in each repeat of A.3). Knit 8 stitches, remove the marker thread from the beginning of the round and insert it here (i.e. the beginning of the round has now been moved 8 stitches to the left). Remove the other marker threads from the piece.
Now work pattern A.4 (= 17 stitches) a total of 13-14-14-15-16-17 times on the round. NOTE: the fans should be in between the fans from the previous round. When A.4 has been completed in height there are 286-308-308-330-352-374 stitches on the round (and 1 marker thread in each repeat of A.4). The piece measures approx. 16 cm from the cast-on edge down.
Now continue with stocking stitch in the round for 1-3-5-7-9-11 cm and at the same time increase 2-14-19-23-24-26 stitches evenly spaced on the first round – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 1-2-2-3-4-5 cm a total of 1-1-2-2-2-2 times = 288-322-346-376-400-426 stitches. When the piece measures 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm, work the next round as follows:
Work the first 42-46-49-55-60-65 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 84-93-99-110-120-131 stitches (= front piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 42-47-50-55-60-66 stitches (= half back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-202-218-240-264-290 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 new stitches on each side of marker threads). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 7 cm a total of 4 times = 200-218-234-256-280-306 stitches. When the piece measures 30 cm from the division, increase 31-31-36-38-41-45 stitches evenly spaced = 231-249-270-294-321-351 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight; you can increase a needle size when casting off if necessary. The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve. The thread marks the beginning of the round and it follows your work onwards. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Decrease every 4 cm a total of 5 times.
Size M: Decrease every 2 cm a total of 8 times.
Size L: Decrease every cm, 5 times and every 2 cm 4 times.
Size XL: Decrease every cm, 5 times and every 2 cm 4 times.
Size XXL: Decrease every cm, 6 times and every 2 cm 3 times.
Size XXXL: Decrease every cm a total of 9 times.
When all the decreases are finished there are 58-60-66-70-74-78 stitches on the needles. Continue with stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 22-21-19-18-16-14 cm. Knit 1 round where the number of stitches is adjusted to 60-60-68-68-76-76 stitches.
Now work pattern as follows: * Knit 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches, work A.1 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. When A.1 has been completed in height there are 72-72-80-80-88-88 stitches on the round (and a marker thread in each repeat of A.1). Knit 4 stitches, remove the marker thread from the beginning of the round and insert it here (i.e. the beginning of the round has now been moved 4 stitches to the left). Remove the other marker threads.
Now work pattern as follows: * Knit 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches, work A.5 (= 10 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. NOTE: the fans should be in between the fans from the previous round. When A.5 has been completed in height there are 84-84-92-92-100-100 stitches on the round (and a marker thread in each repeat of A.5). Knit 5 stitches, remove the marker thread from the beginning of the round and insert it here (i.e. the beginning of the round has now been moved 5 stitches to the left). Remove the other marker threads.
Now work pattern as follows: * Knit 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches, work A.1 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. NOTE: the fans should be in between the fans from the previous round. When A.1 has been completed in height there are 96-96-104-104-112-112 stitches on the round (and a marker thread in each repeat of A.1). Knit 4 stitches, remove the marker thread from the beginning of the round and insert it here (i.e. the beginning of the round has now been moved 4 stitches to the left). Remove the other marker threads.
Now work pattern as follows: * Knit 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches, work A.5 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. NOTE: the fans should be in between the fans from the previous round. When A.5 has been completed in height there are 108-108-116-116-124-124 stitches on the round (and a marker thread in each repeat of A.5).
Knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches evenly spaced = 114-114-123-123-132-132 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 38-37-35-34-32-30 cm. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = knit 1. Insert a marker thread in this stitch; a fan is worked in this stitch later
symbols = insert a marker thread in space between 2 stitches; a fan is worked in this space later
symbols = fan in stitch with marker thread: * Insert needle into stitch with marker thread, make 1 yarn over and pull strand to front of piece so the yarn over is approx. 2.5 cm long, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times (= 5 yarn overs). NOTE: Make sure the yarn overs are approx. 2.5 cm long (important the yarn overs are not too tight to avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter vertically). On the next round knit the yarn overs
symbols = fan in space with marker thread between 2 stitches: * Insert needle into space with marker thread, make 1 yarn over and pull strand to front of piece so the yarn over is approx. 2.5 cm long, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times (= 5 yarn overs). NOTE: Make sure the yarn overs are approx. 2.5 cm long (important the yarn overs are not too tight to avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter vertically). On the next round knit the yarn overs
symbols = knit together the stitch before fan and the stitch above the first yarn over in the fan (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip stitch above the last yarn over in the fan as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = knit together the 2 stitches before the fan and the stitch above the first yarn over in the fan (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip the stitch above the last yarn over in the fan as if to knit, knit together the 2 stitches after the fan, pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased)
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Anette Schwarz wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, Ich stricke gerade die ersten Fächer, so, wie ich die Strickschrift A1 lese, sind die Fächer 5 Maschen auseinander. Das Bild oben links zeigt aber deutlich mehr Maschen dazwischen. Können Sie mir bitte dazu was sagen! Lg

19.07.2021 - 10:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schwarz, ja genau, wenn Sie die Fächer stricken (= bei der 5. Reihe in A.1, sind es 5 Maschen zwischen den Fächern, aber Sie die Fächer stricken, stechen Sie die Nadel in die markierte Masche unten (= 1. Reihe in A.1 = "Grund" von dem Fächer), sind es dann 9 Maschen zwischen jedem Fächern. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.07.2021 - 10:13

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, Depuis un certain temps je ne peux plus voir vos vidéos explicatives. Lorsque je lance la lecture, un cercle se met à tourner indéfiniment. Pouvez-vous me dire ce qui pourrait bien occasionner ce problème ? Par avance, merci.

16.07.2020 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, les vidéos devraient être lisibles, pensez à vérifier votre connexion internet tout autant que les paramètres de votre navigateur (mises à jour etc...) - Et rappelez-vous que vous pouvez aussi retrouver toutes nos vidéos sur YouTube. Bon tricot!

16.07.2020 - 17:35

country flag Camilla Lenita wrote:

Jag stickar ena ärmen nu men jag hittar inget minskningstips i beskrivningen?

19.05.2020 - 20:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla. Tack för info, detta har nu lagts till längst upp på mönstret under förklaring till beskrivningen. Mvh DROPS Design

20.05.2020 - 10:30

country flag Zanne wrote:

Jeg er pt i gang med denne skønne model, men har desværre erfaret der er fejl i opskriften, også kommenteret allerede tilbage i sommeren 2019,men er stadig ikke rettet, hvilket jeg finder rigtig træls. Fejlen ligger i, at der i opskriften på ærmedelen skrives, at omgangstråden skal flyttes 4 masker til venstre, - det er ikke korrekt! Den skal flyttes 8 masker, for at viften kommer i midten af den foregående rækkes vifter. Det ville være rigtig rart, at I fik rettet dette.

15.01.2020 - 22:45

country flag Sonja Vandeven wrote:

Bedank voor het mooie model .\r\nIk vind de trui prachtig.\r\nHeb hem met 2 draden gebreid waarvan 1 effe kleur (groen) en 1 in een draad(bordo , groen ,blauw ,okergeel) die gevlamd is ,zeer mooi!

14.11.2019 - 19:09

country flag Siv Gullaksen wrote:

Jeg kommer til at merkemasken må flyttes 8 masker på ermene- ikke fire som det står for å få viftene mellom de forrige

09.07.2019 - 15:47

country flag Ilka wrote:

Hallo, ich brauche Hilfe. Nach vielen Versuchen bin ich immer noch am scheitern. Kann mir bitte jemand zeigen, wie ich diese Fächerkombination stricken soll? Ein Video wäre super. (Und ja.... Ich weiß wie ich Diagramme lesen und stricken soll). = Fächer in die markierte Masche: * die Nadel in die markierte Masche einstechen, 1 Umschlag und den Umschlag zur Vorderseite ca. 2,5 cm lang durchholen, 1 Masche rechts *, von *-* insgesamt 5 x arbeiten (= 5 Umschläge auf der Nadel)??? Danke

12.05.2019 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ilka, wir haben Ihre Anfrage unser Team weitergeleitet, das Video wird sicher auf unser "Todolist" sein, aber gerne können Sie individuelle Hilfen von Ihrem DROPS Laden (auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail) bekommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.05.2019 - 09:55

country flag Mary wrote:

*****How did you like this yarn? Please let me know! I want to make an embellished cardigan and want to use this for the linen. I like working with all cotton for my afghans, it has a nice weight to it, But kind of sags a lot for sweaters.

25.04.2019 - 13:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, what about contacting your DROPS Store - even per mail or telephone, they will assist you choosing the best matching yarn for your next project. Happy knitting!

25.04.2019 - 15:52

country flag Cornelia wrote:

Ich würde auch gerne wissen wie man den Fächer strickt. Danke :-)

29.03.2019 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Cornelia, hier lesen Sie, wie man Diagram strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.04.2019 - 10:34

country flag Elke wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, können Sie mir bitte erläutern, wie ich die Fächer stricke, vielen Dank!

28.03.2019 - 08:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elke, hier lesen Sie, wie man Diagram strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.04.2019 - 09:32