DROPS / 201 / 30

Egyptian Feathers by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked top down with 2-coloured English rib and zigzag stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-425
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 100, off white
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour 904, lavender
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 103, grey blue

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
26 stitches in width and 52 rows in height with English rib and zigzag = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM - for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.- for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size. First work A.1 (= rib on neck). When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 over A.1. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 over A.2.

STRIPES:
To get the 2-coloured effect work stripes with, alternately, 1 round of colour-2 and 1 round of colour-1.
Pattern A.2 starts with a round off-white as described in text. Each time you decrease or increase in A.2 and A.3, you work on a round with colour-2.
Stripes are worked in English rib.
STRIPE 1: Colour-1 = lavender, colour-2 = off white. Work until the piece measures 5 cm at the shortest point.
STRIPE 2: Colour-1 = grey blue, colour-2 = off white. Work until the piece measures a total of 9 cm at the shortest point.
STRIPE 3: Colour-1 = off white, colour-2 = lavender. Work until A.3 has been worked 1 time in height.
The last row in the diagram is worked with lavender. Then continue the stripes, in reversed stocking stitch, as follows:
ROUND 1: Work with off white.
ROUND 2: Work with lavender.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2.

KNITTING TIP:
All stitch counts when working English rib are without yarn overs, because the yarn overs belong to the knitted stitches and are therefore counted as 1 stitch (unless otherwise stated).

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, purl 2 together, purl 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), purl 2 stitches together twisted (2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 252 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 18) = 14.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 14th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, purl 4 (marker thread sits in middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then purl the new stitches onwards.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is worked in 2-coloured English rib with zigzag, then the piece is continued in stocking stitch with wrong side out and stripes, with 1 round of each colour. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 120-132-132-144-144-156 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and off-white. Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round (= 10-11-11-12-12-13 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work A.2 in the round (= 10-11-11-12-12-13 repeats of 12 stitches –first round worked with off-white). Read STRIPES and KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are 240-264-308-336-384-416 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 9-9-9-9-11-11 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
Now work A.3 over A.2. When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height there are 320-352-396-432-456-494 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 17-17-19-19-21-21 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
Continue in the round with purl and stripes as before.
When the piece measures 19-19-21-21-21-21 cm from the cast-on edge increase evenly spaced as follows: Increase 4-4-4-4-8-8 stitches every 2 cm a total of 1-2-1-1-2-2 times = 324-360-400-436-472-510 stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1.
When the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge mid front, divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Purl 49-53-58-65-72-78 stitches as before (= ½ back piece), place the next 64-74-84-88-92-98 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), purl the next 98-106-116-130-144-157 stitches (= front piece), place the next 64-74-84-88-92-98 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and purl the remaining 49-53-58-65-72-79 stitches (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 212-228-248-276-304-330 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side of the body, in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Start the round at one of the marker threads and purl in the round as before with stripes.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½-2½-2½-3-3-2½ cm a total of 10-10-10-9-9-11 times = 252-268-288-312-340-374 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 2 cm left to finished length).
Knit 1 round where you increase 18-20-18-18-17-19 stitches evenly spaced = 270-288-306-330-357-393 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round with off-white (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 64-74-84-88-92-98 stitches from the thread on the 1 side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-82-92-96-100-106 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start the round by the marker thread and purl in the round with stripes as before. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 9-13-17-18-19-21 times = 54-56-58-60-62-64 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 42-41-40-39-37-35 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 2 cm left to finished length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke).
Knit 1 round where you increase 0-1-2-0-1-2 stitches evenly spaced = 54-57-60-60-63-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round with off-white (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-42-41-39-37 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.03.2019
Correction - SLEEVES: ... on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm

Diagram

= purl
= knit
= colour-1
= colour-2
= make 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl
= knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch
= purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch
= increase 2 stitches with colour-2 as follows: Work 3 stitches in purled stitch and yarn over; i.e. purl together yarn over and purled stitch, but do not slip the stitch off the needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and purl together stitch and yarn over 1 more time = 3 stitches
= decrease 2 stitches, as if to purl, towards the left with colour-2 as follows: Purl 2 together (yarn over and purled stitch + knit 1), slip the next yarn-over and purled stitch onto right needle, place them back on left needle so the stitch is outermost (and yarn over no. 2), place knitted-together stitches back on left needle, keep strand at front of piece, pass stitch and yarn over onto left needle (i.e. second and third stitch on left needle) over the stitch which was placed back on left needle (with strand in front of piece). To finish place this stitch back on the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased)
= decrease 2 stitches, as if to purl, towards the right with colour-2 as follows (it is important to keep the strand at the front of the piece the whole time during this decrease): slip yarn over and purled stitch onto right needle, place knitted stitch on an extra needle in front of piece (with strand in front of stitch), slip the next yarn over and purled stitch from left needle onto right needle, place stitch from extra needle back on left needle, purl this stitch, pass purled stitch and yarn over (i.e. second and third stitch on right needle) over the outermost stitch, pass next purled stitch and yarn-over (i.e. second and third stitch on right needle) over outermost stitch (= 2 stitches decreased)
= purl 2 stitches (and 1 yarn over, if on the last round the stitch was worked in English rib) together
= increase 2 stitches with colour-2 as follows: Work 3 stitches in purled stitch; i.e. purl 1, but do not slip the stitch off the needle, 1 yarn over right needle and purl 1 in same stitch = 3 stitches
= knitting direction







1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

24) Do you need help with this pattern?

We have 21 tutorial videos to help you with this pattern. See them here

For further pattern help, please contact the DROPS store where you bought the yarn, where you are guaranteed to receive qualified help from a store specializing in the DROPS patterns.

All patterns are carefully reviewed, but we must make reservation for possible mistakes. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern for measurements and calculations.

Go to original pattern for design DROPS 201-30.