DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS SS24

Summer Berries Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Delight. Piece is knitted top down with raglan, ¾ sleeves and A-shape. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 201-14
DROPS design: Pattern de-195
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS: 
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 20, blueberry pie

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL-BUTTON, round (blush), NO 618: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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MOSS STITCH (work back and forth on needle):
ROW 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROW 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat 2ND ROW upwards.

STRIPES:
To make more stripes on garment work alternately 1 strand from 2 different balls, adjust so that balls start with different colours. * Work 2 rows/rounds with the first ball, work 2 rows/rounds with the other ball (do not tighten yarn when pulling it upwards) *, work from *-l*. This way the colour are mixed more and will produce more narrow stripes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 116 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 5.3. In this example increase after approx. every 5th stitch. Do not increase over bands. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Begin 1 stitch before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat at both markers. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body. All increases are done from right side and work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS WHEN INCREASING 2 STITCHES ON EACH SIDE OF STITCH WITH MARKER THREAD: Begin before stitch with marker thread, pick up loop before stitch and knit loop twisted, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), make 1 yarn over, pick up loop before next stitch and knit loop twisted (= 4 stitches increased). On next row purl yarn overs to make holes.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS WHEN INCREASING 1 STITCH ON EACH SIDE OF STITCH WITH MARKER THREAD:
Begin before stitch with marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row purl yarn overs to make holes.

KNITTING TIP:
When increasing for raglan on every 4th row, the holes in raglan line will be further apart than when increasing on every other row. To avoid this work holes on the rows from right side without increase as follows:
Begin 2 stitches before stitch with marker thread, knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. On next row purl yarn overs to make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Begin 2 stitches before stitch with marker, knit 2 twisted together, knit 1 (stitch with marker), knit 2 together (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after ridge in neck, then decrease the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 approx. 8 cm apart.
Decrease for buttonholes on right band as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain on needle (seen from right side), make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On next row knit yarn over to make holes. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Work entire piece in STRIPES - see explanation above.

YOKE:
Cast on 116-116-116-136-136-136 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Delight. Work 5 band stitches in MOSS STITCH – read explanation above, rib with knit 2/purl 2 until 5 stitches remain and 5 band stitches in moss stitch.
When piece measures 1.5 cm, work 1 row from right side to increase as follows: Work moss stitch over 5 band stitches, knit and increase 18 stitches evenly over the next 106-106-106-126-126-126 stitches - READ INCREASE TIP-1, and finish with 5 band stitches in moss stitch = 134-134-134-154-154-154 stitches.
Purl 1 row from wrong side with 5 band stitches in each side in moss stitch.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. 
Insert 4 marker threads in piece (without working the stitches): Insert first marker thread in 26th-26th-26th-31st-31st-31st stitch on needle, second marker thread in 47th-47th-47th-52nd-52nd-52nd stitch on needle, insert third marker thread in 88th-88th-88th-103rd-103rd-103rd stitch on needle and insert fourth marker thread in 109th-109th-109th-124th-124th-124th stitch on needle. There are now 25-25-25-30-30-30 stitches between stitches with marker thread on each front piece, 40-40-40-50-50-50 stitches on back piece and 20 stitches in all sizes on each sleeve.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in moss stitch, stocking stitch over the next 20-20-20-25-25-25 stitches, increase 2 stitches on each side of stitch with marker thread for RAGLAN – see explanation above, work stocking stitch over the 20 stitches on sleeve, increase 2 stitches on each side of stitch with marker thread, work stocking stitch over the 40-40-40-50-50-50 stitches on back piece, increase 2 stitches on each side of stitch with marker thread, work stocking stitch over the 20 stitches on sleeve, increase 2 stitches on each side of stitch with marker thread, work stocking stitch over the next 20-20-20-25-25-25 stitches on front piece and finish with 5 band stitches in moss stitch.

Continue in stocking stitch with band stitches in moss stitch and increase for raglan in every transition between body and sleeves as follows:
Increase 2 stitches on each side of stitches with marker thread on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 6-6-6-8-8-10 times in total (first increase is already done), then increase 1 stitch on each side of stitches with marker threads every other row 8-8-8-9-9-10 times in total. When increase has been done 14-14-14-17-17-20 times in total, there are 294-294-294-354-354-394 stitches on row.
Continue increase for raglan and increase 1 stitch on each side of stitches with marker threads every other row 0-7-12-4-13-12 times in total and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 6-4-3-7-4-5 times in total – READ KNITTING TIP.
After last increase for raglan there are 342-382-414-442-490-530 stitches on row and piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from cast-on edge (measured mid front). 
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work the first 52-57-61-67-73-78 stitches as before (= right front piece), slip the next 72-82-90-92-104-114 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-13-15 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 94-104-112-124-136-146 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 72-82-90-92-104-114 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-13-15 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 52-57-61-67-73-78 stitches as before. Finish body and sleeves separately. Remove the marker threads in piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 212-232-252-276-308-332 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 7-7-9-9-13-15 stitches cast on under each sleeve and move the marker threads upwards when working. Continue back and forth in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in moss stitch in each side. When piece measures 3 cm, increase 2 stitches in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6-6-6-5-5-4 cm 5-5-5-6-6-7 times in total = 232-252-272-300-332-360 stitches. When piece measures 30 cm, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work moss stitch over 5 band stitches with knit 2/purl 2 until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in moss stitch. Work like this until rib measures 3 cm. Switch back to circular needle size 3 mm and cast off by knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 72-82-90-92-104-114 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 7-7-9-9-13-15 stitches cast on under sleeve = 79-89-99-101-117-129 stitches on needle. Work in stocking stitch in the round. Insert a marker in the middle stitch under sleeve. When piece measures 3 cm in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease 9-13-17-17-23-28 times in total in S: On every 10th round, in M: On every 6th round, in L and XL: On every 4th round, in XXL: On every round 4 times in total and then every 3rd round 19 times in total and in XXXL: On every round 8 times in total and then every other round 20 times in total = 61-63-65-67-71-73 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 29-28-27-24-23-22 cm from division. Knit 1 round while decreasing 5-3-1-3-3-1 stitch evenly = 56-60-64-64-68-72 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib with knit 2/purl 2 for 3 cm. Switch back to double pointed needles size 3 mm and cast off by knitting.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Ulrika Nielsen wrote:

Hej! Jag undrar om maskan mellan ökningarna för raglan räknas till ärmarnas maskantal eller till fram- o bakstyckena?

22.06.2023 - 08:15

country flag Celine wrote:

Bonjour Pouvez-vous m'indiquer comment faire pour ne pas voir La forme trapèze pour ce modèle de veste , je n'avais pas réalisé et je veux une forme droite normale Merci à l'avance de votre aide

10.11.2022 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, il vous suffit de ne pas faire les augmentations sur les côtés - en revanche, vous devrez ajuster le nombre d'augmentations avant les côtes car votre nombre de mailles ne correspondra pas. Bon tricot!

10.11.2022 - 17:05

country flag Christine wrote:

I’m knitting size small with 134 sts on my needle Then I inserted the marker threads and keep getting 45 sts for the back and not 40.!!!

18.10.2022 - 05:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Christine, The first marker thread is inserted in the 26th stitch (remember in the stitch not between stitches), then the second in the 47th stitch, the 88th stitch and finally the 109th stitch. This leaves you with 25 stitches on the row. The back piece is measured between marker threads 2 and 3, which is 40 stitches (not counting the marker-stitches themselves). Happy knitting!

18.10.2022 - 07:06

country flag Heidi Jarbekk Bruun wrote:

Hei, jeg er ferdig med alle økningene til raglan og har riktig antall masker (414 - strikker L), men arbeidet måler bare 19 cm. Har nok bommet litt på strikkefastheten, men vil det se pent om jeg bare fortsetter å strikke uten å øke mer til jeg får riktig lengde?

22.09.2021 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

HEi Heidi. Du kan strikke til du får riktig mål (i høyden) uten økninger. mvh DROPS Design

28.09.2021 - 11:56

country flag Jane wrote:

Hei hvor mange gange skal det økes hver 2omgang og 4omgang? Mvh jane

05.05.2021 - 09:13

DROPS Design answered:

Det kommer an på hvilken størrelse du strikker, se her: Fortsett økningen til raglan og det økes 1 maske på hver side av maskene med merketråd i på hver 2.pinne totalt 0-7-12-4-13-12 ganger og deretter på hver 4.pinne (dvs på annenhver pinne fra retten) totalt 6-4-3-7-4-5 ganger – LES STRIKKETIPS.

07.05.2021 - 09:38

country flag Siobhain wrote:

Hi, I would like to check what length double point needles I need for this pattern. Are 20cm needles suitable? Thank you.

10.03.2021 - 15:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Siobhain, sure they are, the double pointed needles will be used for the sleeves - you can also use a longer circular needle and work magic loop. Happy knitting!

10.03.2021 - 16:15

country flag Noellie wrote:

Ho inviato una mail perchè non mi tornavano le maglie aumentate. Ho rivisto il tutto con una amica esperta di maglia e mia ha spiegato bene. Mi scuso e vi ringrazio.

19.02.2021 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Noellie, dove ha inviato la mail? Se in futuro dovesse avere altre difficoltà può scriverci compilando direttamente il modulo alla fine di ogni modello. Buon lavoro!

19.02.2021 - 21:04

country flag Emilia wrote:

Hej, Jag undrar lite över ökningstips 2, ökning i sidan mellan fram och bakstycke. Ska de 4 ökade maskorna hamna på framstycket, eller 2 på bakstycket? När jag läser tipset låter det nästan som att två ska hamna på vänster framstycke och två ska hamna på höger sida av bakstycket. Det kan väl ändå inte stämma eller? Men det blir ju så om jag ökar två maskor innan varje markör.

28.07.2020 - 09:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Emilia, du øker 1 masker på hver side af masken med markør i begge sider (markøren er i midten af siden). God fornøjelse!

05.08.2020 - 15:31

country flag Wilmo wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais faire une rehausse dos pour ce gilet. Si je fais des rangs raccourcis sur 15 mailles, est-ce que ça sera équilibré? j\'ai vu ces explications sur un autre modèle, le ROSENDAL 181-1 . merci de votre aide - je n'ai jamais tricoté de pull avec une rehausse!

25.06.2020 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Wilmo, il serait plus sage de prendre en base un modèle avec réhausse tricoté dans le même groupe de fils A/avec le même échantillon - le Modèle Rosendal est tricoté avec une laine du groupe B, le calcul sera différent. Bon tricot!

26.06.2020 - 07:51

country flag Elena wrote:

Ho iniziato questo modello ma dopo 10 cm di lavoro ho interrotto... 116 maglie per il girocollo sono assolutamente troppo poche!! Il collo risulta strettissimo, mentre dalle foto è evidente che deve restare abbastanza largo. Altri modelli equivalenti, trovati qui e fatti con lo stesso filato, per la taglia L montano dalle 130 alle 140 maglie!! Vorrei sapere se qualcuna è riuscita a lavorare la taglia L di questo modello seguendo esattamente le istruzioni...

27.05.2020 - 10:08