DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Country Fair Socks

Knitted socks in DROPS Fabel. Worked in an angle and stripes from toe and up. Size 35 to 43

DROPS 198-20
DROPS design: Pattern fa-429
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43 
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg height down to beginning of heel: 16 - 18 - 20 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 903, yellow/pink
50-50-50 g colour 153, texMex

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 40 and 60 or 80 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.

STRIPES:
Work piece in stripes as follows:
Work 1 round in yellow/pink.
Work 1 round in texMex.

HEEL
Work in stocking stitch back and forth with texMex as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work until 1 stitch remains, turn piece. 
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and work until 1 stitch remains, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Slip first stitch knitwise, tighten yarn and work until 2 stitches remains, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and work until 2 stitches remains, turn piece. 
Continue short rows the same way until 14 stitches remain in the middle of row. 
Continue back and forth but now work 1 stitch more for every row (i.e. from both right and wrong side) over heel. To avoid holes in every transition at the turns, lift the horizontal yarn before the stitch to be knitted up and slip it twisted on the needle. Work strand tog with next stitch on left needle (from right side knit strand and stitch together and from wrong side purl strand and stitch together). Work like this until all heel stitches have been worked. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCKS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked from the toe and up. Work first back and forth at an angle with short rows before working in the round on double pointed needles. Work heel back and forth with short rows. Work leg in the round on double pointed needles.

RIGHT SOCK:
Cast on 48-52-56 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with texMex.

PART 1:
Switch to yellow/pink.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, purl 23-25-27, insert 1 marker, purl 23-25-27, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until 2 stitches remain before marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until 2 stitches remain on needle, turn piece (= 50-54-58 stitches on needle).
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on needle (work yarn overs twisted, there should not be holes), turn piece.
ROW 4 (= right side): slip 1 stitch onto right needle knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain before marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until 5-7-9 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece (= 52-56-60 stitches on needle).
ROW 5 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 5-7-9 stitches in total remain on needle (work yarn overs twisted, there should not be holes), turn piece.
ROW 6 (= right side): slip 1 stitch onto right needle knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain before marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until 10-12-14 stitches remain on needle, turn piece (= 54-58-62 stitches on needle).
ROW 7 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 10-12-14 stitches in total remain on needle (work yarn overs twisted, there should not be holes), turn piece.
ROW 8 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit until 15-17-19 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 9 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 15-17-19 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 10 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit until 20-22-24 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 11 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 20-22-24 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 12 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit until 1 stitch remains on needle, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn piece.
ROW 13 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until 1 stitch remains on needle, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Switch to texMex.
ROW 14 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 15 (= wrong side): Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, purl until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

PART 2:
Switch to yellow/pink.
ROW 16 (= right side): Knit until 2 stitches remain, turn piece.
ROW 17 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 18 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit until 5-7-9 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 19 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 5-7-9 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 20 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit until 10-12-14 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 21 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 10-12-14 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 22 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit until 15-17-19 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 23 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 15-17-19 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 24 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit until 20-22-24 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 25 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle purlwise, purl until 20-22-24 stitches in total remain on needle, turn piece.
ROW 26 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch on to right needle knitwise, knit until 1 stitch remains on needle, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn piece.
ROW 27 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until 1 stitch remains on needle, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Switch to texMex.
ROW 28 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 29 (= wrong side): Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, purl until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Repeat PART 2 (row 16 to 29) a total of 3 times. Then repeat PART 2 again, but on the last 2 rows (= with texMex) cast off first edge stitch in each side of piece = 52-56-60 stitches. Now displace round by slipping the first 39-42-45 stitches from right side loosely on to right needle. Cut the yarn.
Beginning of round = mid under foot.
Then put pieces together and work in the round on double pointed needles. Work STRIPES in stocking stitch - see explanation above.
When piece measures 17-18½-21 cm, see Fig.1 (when measuring place piece flat with cast-on edge in the side, measure in the middle of piece from tip/toe). Now divide the piece for heel and adjust so that last row is worked with texMex. Leave the middle 22 stitches on top of foot on the needle (i.e. 11 stitches on 2nd and 3rd double pointed needle). Distribute the remaining 30-34-38 stitches on 1st and 4th double pointed needle with 15-17-19 stitches on each needle. Work HEEL – read explanation above (work heel in stocking stitch).
When heel has been worked, continue with stripes and in stocking stitch – NOTE: To avoid holes in the corner on heel when beginning first round after heel, lift the horizontal thread before next stitch on left needle up and slip it twisted on needle. Work yarn together with next stitch on left needle.
When piece measures 4 cm from heel, increase 2 stitches evenly = 54-58-62 stitches. Repeat increase when piece measures 8 cm from heel = 56-60-64 stitches. When piece measures 12-14-16 cm from heel, adjust so that next round is worked with yellow/pink, increase 4 stitches evenly = 60-64-68 stitches. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) with yellow/pink for 4 cm. Loosely cast off by knitting.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold cast-on edge and sew together, sew up to where piece was put together and work in the round with texMex.

LEFT SOCK:
Work as right sock but when parts are done and round is displaced to mid under foot slip the first 13-14-15 stitches from right side loosely on to right needle.

Diagram

symbols = tip/toe, measure from here
symbols = heel begins here, measure to here
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Susanna wrote:

Hallo, ich brauche bitte Hilfe bei der Ferse :) Ich verstehe die Anleitung so, dass die Ferse lediglich mit den 22 Maschen gestrickt wird, da die anderen stillgelegt werden. Dadurch wird die Ferse aber sehr schmal und kurz für Größe 43, nur 16 Reihen. Oder muss ich mit den 38 Maschen stricken?

26.03.2023 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanna, die Ferse stricken Sie über die 38 Maschen - die deutsche Anleitung wird angepasst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.03.2023 - 09:23

country flag Undine wrote:

Hallo liebes DropsTeam, der Teil 2 soll insgesamt 3x gearbeitet werden und dann noch 1x wiederholen. Verstehe ich es richtig, dass Teil 2 dann insgesamt 4x gearbeitet wird? Dankeschön. Liebe Grüße

23.01.2022 - 11:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Undine, Teil 2 stricken Sie 4 Mal gestrickt und gleichzeitig am Anfang der 2 letzten Reihen beim 4. Mal werden die Randmaschen beidseitig abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.01.2022 - 09:23

country flag Anja wrote:

Hallo liebes Team, ich komme bei der Ferse einfach nicht klar. Kann man mir das bitte besser erklären? WAS genau soll gemacht werden, nachdem mir 14 Maschen in der Mitte geblieben sind? Maschen aufnehmen, wenn ja WO? Zwischen den 14 Maschen? Ich versteh das leider überhaupt nicht. Danke für eure Hilfe.

07.05.2020 - 20:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, dieses Video zeigt, wie man solche Ferse strickt, dh in 2 Teilen: zuerst 1 Masche weniger am Ende jeder Reihe bis 14 Maschen übrig sind, dann 1 Masche mehr am Ende jeder Reihe bis alle Maschen der Fersen wieder gestrickt sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.05.2020 - 08:52

country flag Ugne wrote:

My bad - forgot about increases in Part 1. "Bind off" is correct (decrease by 2 sts)

10.07.2019 - 11:19

country flag Ugne wrote:

I think, there is an error in pattern. "Repeat PART 2 (row 16 to 29) a total of 3 times. Then repeat PART 2 again, but on the last 2 rows (= with texMex) ----bind off---- first edge stitch in each side of piece = 52-56-60 stitches." It should be "cast on" as stitch count increases by 4.

10.07.2019 - 11:02

country flag Magda Roos wrote:

Dank voor de uitleg

25.03.2019 - 18:30

country flag Magda Roos wrote:

Bezig met country fair sock maar snap niet hoe ik de steken moet verdelen om rond te gaan breien heb de 42 steken op rechter NLD gezet maar hoe moet ik zelf verder gaan verdelen. Kunt u me aub verder op weg helpen welk deel wordt hiel? Heb dit nog nooit gedaan. Bij voorbaat dank

12.03.2019 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Magda Roos,

Bij naald 1 wordt aangegeven waar je markeerdraden moet plaatsen, op deze plek zou je ook over kunnen gaan naar een nieuwe naald als je met sokkenbreinaalden werkt. Verder kun ze naar eigen inzicht verdelen. Tijdens het breien wordt precies aangegeven wat je moet doen en dan wijst het zich ook wel hoe je de steken over de naalden moet verdelen.

Kijk anders ook even bij de video's die bij het patroon staan.

25.03.2019 - 10:22

country flag Garnbaciller wrote:

Det är jävligt beklagligt att ni återigen snor andras mönster!

06.03.2019 - 08:21

country flag Carmen wrote:

Sehr nah am Original eines anderen Designers !!!

18.01.2019 - 09:58

country flag Jensen wrote:

Smart måde at afslutte tæerne på - følger fint fodens form.

16.12.2018 - 09:26