DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Autumn Spice Cardigan

Knitted jacket with raglan in 2 strands DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with texture and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 202-14
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-033
Yarn group B + B or D
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-122-134-146 cm = 37 3/4”-41”-44”-48”-52 3/4”-57 3/8”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color 11, hazelnut

KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10,75.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10,75: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 63 stitches), minus garter stitch on each side (e.g. 4 stitches), and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 5.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
.

RAGLAN (for sleeves):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch after/before the marker thread on the sleeves as follows: Work to the first marker thread, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work to 1 stitch before the next marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1. Repeat on other sleeve = 4 stitches increased on row. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs to leave holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment in worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left before the edge as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then work the other 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 10-10-9-9-10-10 cm = 4”-4”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4” between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

JACKET:
NECK:
Cast on 69-71-75-77-79-81 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and 2 strands Sky. Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Knit.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit.
ROW 3: Work 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, purl until there are 4 stitches left on row, 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Remember BUTTONHOLE!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75. Work pattern as follows - Remember BUTTONHOLES: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next stitch, A.2 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= left front piece), knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3-4-6-3-4-5 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), A.3 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches, A.4 over the next stitch (= mid-stitch at back), A.2 over the next 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= back piece), knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3-4-6-3-4-5 , 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), A.3 over the next 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches, A.5 over the next stitch, 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). You have now increased 1 stitch to RAGLAN – read description above, on each side of the sleeves (= 4 stitches increased), 1 stitch on each side of the mid-stitch (A.4) on the back piece (= 2 stitches increased) and 1 stitch inside A.1/A.5 and the band on the front pieces (= 2 stitches increased) = 77-79-83-85-87-89 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue back and forth like this and increase to raglan on the sleeves every 2nd row 14-16-16-19-19-19 more times (a total of 15-17-17-20-20-20 times), AT THE SAME TIME when the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat the last 2 rows 8-10-12-13-16-19 more times (i.e. until there are 25-29-33-35-41-47 stitches in stockinette stitch between A.3 and A.2 on the back piece and 13-15-17-18-21-24 stitches stockinette stitch between the band and A.2/A.3 on the front pieces = 185-203-215-233-247-261 stitches.

Continue with texture over the 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches in A.2 and A.3, garter stitch over the 4 band stitches on each side towards mid front and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches until the piece measures 23-25-27-29-31-33 cm = 9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4”-13”, measured from the cast-on edge and down mid front. The next row from the wrong side is worked as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 31-33-35-38-41-44 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 35-40-42-45-46-47 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 53-57-61-67-73-79 stitches (= back piece), place the next 35-40-42-45-46-47 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 31-33-35-38-41-44 stitches (= left front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 135-143-155-167-183-199 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 5-5-6-6-7-8 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Work pattern as before over the 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches in A.2 and A.3, work garter stitch over the middle 4 stitches on each side (i.e. 2 stitches in garter stitch on each side of both marker threads) and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front as before. The remaining stitches on the row are worked in stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 15 cm = 6” from the division, place the first and last 36-38-41-44-48-52 stitches on a thread for right and left front pieces = 63-67-73-79-87-95 stitches left on needle. Now finish the front and back pieces separately to give a split in the sides.

BACK PIECE:
There are now 63-67-73-79-87-95 stitches on the back piece. Work A.2/A.3, stockinette stitch and 2 stitches in garter stitch on each side as before. When the piece measures 26 cm = 10 1/4” from the division, increase 10-10-10-12-14-14 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 73-77-83-91-101-109 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight; you can increase a needle size when binding off if this is a problem. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the stitches from the thread back on circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 = 36-38-41-44-48-52 stitches. Work A.3, 4 band stitches in garter stitch, 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the side and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches. When the piece measures 26 cm = 10 1/4” from the division (adjust to match the back piece) increase 5-5-6-7-7-7 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 41-43-47-51-55-59 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with 4 band stitches in garter stitch on the one side and 2 stitches in garter stitch on the other. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight; you can increase a needle size when binding off if this is a problem. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work in the same way as right front piece.

SLEEVE:
Place the 35-40-42-45-46-47 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 mm = US 10,75 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 45-50-54-57-60-63 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-8 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4-4-3-5-4-3 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/8”-2”-1 1/2”-1 1/8” from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3-3-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4” a total of 8-10-11-12-12-13 times = 29-30-32-33-36-37 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-35-34-32-31 cm = 15”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-12 1/4” from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 5-6-6-7-8-9 stitches evenly spaced = 34-36-38-40-44-46 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm = US 10 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight; you can make 1 yarn over after each 6th stitch at the same time as you bind off (yarn overs bind off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-36-35 cm = 16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/4” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to leave a hole
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Harriet wrote:

This pattern doesn't say how much yarn you need for each size!

14.02.2024 - 13:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Harriet, you will find the requested amount of yarn under the header, ie in Size S for example you will need 350 g DROPS Sky / 50 g a ball = 7 balls. Happy knitting!

14.02.2024 - 16:29

country flag Cecilia wrote:

No entiendo esto: recoger 1 punto en cada uno de los 10-10-12-12-14-16 puntos montados bajo la manga

04.06.2022 - 01:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cecilia. Puedes ver la técnica en el siguiente link: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=59&lang=es.

04.06.2022 - 16:56

country flag Raquel wrote:

Muchas gracias por vuestro trabajo. He hecho varios proyectos de Drops y estoy muy satisfecha con los resultados. Tengo una duda con este, ¿se puede hacer este patrón con un solo hilo?

03.05.2022 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Raquel, si quieres seguir el patrón, tendrías que trabajar con un solo hilo de una lana del grupo D (Melody); para trabajar con un solo hilo de Sky tendrías que recalcular el número de puntos.

05.05.2022 - 21:34

country flag Christine wrote:

Bonjour. Je confirme le commentaire de Sandrine sur l'échantillon. J'ai rencontré exactement le même problème, le mien faisait 18 mailles pour 10 cm. Que ce soit avec des aiguilles 7 ou 6 (le numéro n'est pas précisé pour l'échantillon du modèle), il est impossible d'obtenir les 13 mailles pour 10 cm.

28.01.2022 - 16:51

country flag Sandrine wrote:

Je tiens à signaler que mon échantillon est assez différent de celui annoncé. Je suis à 15 mailles et 20 rangs pour 10 cm. C'est assez inhabituel, j'ai rarement une telle différence. Je tricote donc ce beau modèle que je tiens vraiment à porter, en XXL au lieu de M/L.

15.04.2021 - 10:47

country flag Katarina Elisabeth Nordlund wrote:

Hej! Kan jag använda drops karisma till denna kofta??? Mvh Katarina

14.09.2020 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Katarina. Karisma tillhör garngrupp B så det ska gå bra att använda det garnet istället ( 2 trådar). Koftan kommer bli tyngre eftersom DROPS Sky är ett lättare garn, bara så du tänker på det. Se bara till att få den stickfasthet som står i mönstret och att beräkna riktig garnåtgång. Mvh DROPS Design

15.09.2020 - 07:32

country flag Catherine wrote:

J'aurais souhaité faire ce modèle en alpaca et en fil simple. Pouvez-vous m'indiquer le nombre de pelotes nécessaires et quelle quantité de mailles dois-je faire pour commencer l'ouvrage ? En vous remerciant

11.03.2020 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, ce modèle a été écrit sur la base d'un échantillon de 13 x 15 rangs = 10 x 10 cm; soit avec 2 fils du groupe B (= Sky) soit avec 1 fil du groupe D (plus d'infos sur les alternatives- si vous avez un autre échantillon, il vous faudra entièrement recalculer les explications (cf FAQ. Nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir réécrire chaque modèle pour répondre à chaque demande, mais vous pouvez contacter votre magasin ou un forum tricot; Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

11.03.2020 - 13:59

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse. Mais vos explications ne correspondent pas à ce que je peux lire des diagramme : vous dites : A.3 (qui se termine par 1 jeté aux rangs 1 et 3), or sur le diagramme de ce gilet A3 commence par 1 jeté aux rangs 1 et 3. A.4. C’est l.inverse également pour A.2 qui fini par 1 jeté aux rangs 1 et 3. Par ailleurs je ne comprends pas comment se fonts les trous sur chaque devant. Merci.

24.11.2019 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, le 1er rang des diagrammes se tricote sur l'endroit; ainsi on lit A.3 de droite à gauche au 1er rang: ex en taille S-M-L: on tricote 12 m: 2 m end, 1 m env, 3 m end, 1 m env, 3 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end, 1 jeté (= on a maintenant 13 m). Les jetés des manches se font après la m end du début de la manche et avant la m end de la fin de la manche, donc pas dans A.3 ni A.4. Les trous que l'on voit sur la photo sont les augmentations du raglan: côté devant par ex. c'est le jeté au début de A.1/ à la fin de A.1 (devant gauche), et celui après A.2 (qui n'est pas dans le diagramme = augmentation manche). Bon tricot!

25.11.2019 - 10:30

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, j’ai commencé le tricot mais j’ai l’impression qu’il faut lire les indications de chaque diagramme de droite vers la gauche. Est ce bien cela? Ce qui me fait dire cela c’est lorsque je lis qu’il y a « + 1 maille de chaque côté de la maille du milieu dos (A4) » donc le cycle A3 doit se terminer par le jeté puis A4 puis A2 qui commence avec 1 jeté. Est ce que ma lecture est correcte? Merci

11.11.2019 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, les diagrammes se lisent de gauche à droite sur l'endroit et de droite à gauche sur l'envers. Au début du dos on tricote: A.3 (qui se termine par 1 jeté aux rangs 1 et 3), A.4 (= 1 m pendant 4 rangs) et A.2 (qui commence par 1 jeté aux rangs 1 et 3). Bon tricot!

12.11.2019 - 08:21

country flag Dekkers Natalie wrote:

Hallo! Ik kom met het proeflapje niet uit ik kom met naaldgrote 8 op 13 steken op 18 rijen voor 10 bij 10 en niet op 15 rijen. Op 7 ook geprobeerd daar word het veels te klein. Vierkante naalden geprobeerd. Heb nog nooit een patroon omgerekend. Heb wel jullie wol gekocht Sky mix maar in kleur nummer 17. Snap er niks van heb gewoon los gebreid.

04.07.2019 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Natalie,

Het is natuurlijk het mooist als de stekenverhouding in de hoogte ook klopt, maar het is het belangrijkst dat hij in de breedte klopt. In dit patroon kun je na het breien van de meerderingen voor de raglan doorbreien in textuurpatroon tot je op de juiste lengte bent om het werk te splitsen voor het lijf en de mouwen (zie paragraaf die boven 'LIJF' staat), dus waarschijnlijk zal dit niet een probleem zijn, zolang de stekenverhouding in de breedte maar overeenkomt.

08.07.2019 - 11:11