DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Autumn Spice

Knitted jumper with raglan in 2 strands DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with texture and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 202-13
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-032
Yarn group B + B or D
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour 11, hazelnut

KNITTING TENSION:
13 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 63 stitches) minus garter stitches on each side (= 4 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 5.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN (for sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch after/before the marker threads on the sleeves as follows: Work to the first marker thread, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work to 1 stitch before the next marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 4 stitches increased on round. On the next round knit the yarn overs to leave holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The body is worked in the round as far as the split in the sides, then front and back pieces are finished separately back and forth on needle. Sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

JUMPER:
NECK:
Cast on 60-62-66-68-70-72 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and 2 strands Sky. Purl 1 round and knit 2 rounds.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work pattern as follows:
Work * A.1 – choose diagram for your size (= 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches), A.2 (= 1 stitch), A.3 – choose diagram for your size (= 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches), insert 1 marker thread here (= back/front piece), knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3-4-6-3-4-5 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve) *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round. You have now increased 1 stitch to RAGLAN (read description above) on each side of sleeves and 1 stitch on each side of mid-stitch on front and back pieces (mid-stitch = A.2) = 68-70-74-76-78-80 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue in the round with this pattern and increase to raglan on the sleeves every 2nd round 14-16-16-19-19-19 more times (a total of 15-17-17-20-20-20 times). AT THE SAME TIME when the diagrams have been completed in height repeat the last 2 rounds 8-10-12-13-16-19 more times (i.e. until there are 25-29-33-35-41-47 stitches stocking stitch between A.1 and A.3 on front and back pieces) = 176-194-206-224-238-252 stitches.

Then continue with texture over the 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches in A.1 and A.3 and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches until the piece measures 23-25-27-29-31-33 cm from the cast-on edge and down mid front.

The next round is worked as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 53-57-61-67-73-79 stitches (= back piece), place the next 35-40-42-45-46-47 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 53-57-61-67-73-79 stitches (= front piece), place the next 35-40-42-45-46-47 stitches on a thread (= sleeve) and cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 126-134-146-158-174-190 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 5-5-6-6-7-8 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Work pattern as before over the 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches in A.1 and A.3, work GARTER STITCH – read description above, over the middle 4 stitches on each (i.e. 2 stitches in garter stitch on each side of the marker threads in the sides). The remaining stitches on the round are worked in stocking stitch. When the piece measures 15 cm work as far as the marker thread on the one side of the piece. Then work back and forth over half the stitches on the round for front/back piece to give the split in the sides.

BACK PIECE:
= 63-67-73-79-87-95 stitches. Work pattern A.1/A.3, stocking stitch and 2 stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 26 cm increase 10-10-10-12-14-14 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 73-77-83-91-101-109 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight; use a size larger needle when casting off if this is a problem. The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
Work in the same way as back piece.

SLEEVE:
Place the 35-40-42-45-46-47 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 45-50-54-57-60-63 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the stitches under the sleeve (= 5-5-6-6-7-8 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4-4-3-5-4-3 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3-3-2-2-2 cm a total of 8-10-11-12-12-13 times = 29-30-32-33-36-37 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-35-34-32-31 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 5-6-6-7-8-9 stitches evenly spaced = 34-36-38-40-44-46 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off being tight you can work 1 yarn over after each 6th stitch while casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-36-35 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Marisa Castro wrote:

Desisti 😞

10.01.2022 - 19:28

country flag Marisa Castro wrote:

Infelizmente acho as explicações muito confusas, e estou acostumada. Já fiz 1modelo vosso de bebé e ficou lindo. Mas tive de "lutar" com a explicação. Nem consigo dizer o que acho confuso. 😞

10.01.2022 - 19:19

country flag Danik 56 wrote:

Pourquoi tricotez-vous vos modèles de haut en bas et pourquoi avec des aiguilles circulaires ? je ne suis à l'aise avec aucune de ces méthodes alors que j'ai vu des modèles qui me plaisent beaucoup.

05.11.2020 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Danik 56, les aiguilles circulaires sont très fréquemment utilisées en Norvège, que ce soit pour tricoter en rond ou en allers et retours (cette leçon peut vous aider). Les modèles tricotés de haut en bas sont de plus en plus demandés - et appréciés, nous faisons en sorte de proposer des modèles des 2 techniques - retrouvez tous nos modèles tricotés de bas en haut ici. Bon tricot!

05.11.2020 - 17:29

country flag Mila wrote:

Buongiorno, mi piacerebbe avere un video tutorial dove si spiega come si fa: "Diminuire 1 maglia da ciascun lato del segno come segue: lavorare finché non rimangono 3 maglie prima del segno, lavorare 2 maglie insieme a diritto, 2 maglie diritto (il segno si trova tra queste 2 maglie), passare 1 maglia a diritto senza lavorarla, 1 maglia diritto, accavallare la maglia passata sulla maglia lavorata" Grazie

31.12.2019 - 00:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mila, al momento non ci sono tutorial per quella parte completa, ma i singoli video delle diminuzioni: come lavorare 2 maglie insieme a diritto accvallata semplice ci riscriva se ha ancora bisogno di aiuto. Buon lavoro!

31.12.2019 - 08:59

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo liebes Strickteam, wird nur die Maschenprobe mit doppeltem Faden gestrickt oder der gesamte Pullover? Ich finde in der Anleitung keine Angabe zu doppeltem Faden. Dank und Grüße Barbara

07.08.2019 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, dieser Pullover wird mit 2 Fäden gestsrickt, siehe unter Maschenprobe sowie unter HALSBLENDE. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.08.2019 - 09:29

country flag Brita wrote:

Flott genser! Jeg strikker denne nå, men står fast etter økningene i a1. I mønster står det man skal øke med kast 2 ggr, stemmer det? Eller skal man fortsette annenhver omgang til topp av a1?

03.04.2019 - 21:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Brita. i A.1 økes det kun 2 masker (1 og 3 omgang), det er de 4 hullene helt øverst, midt foran og midt bak. A.2 vil fortsette dette hullmønsteret utover i en omvendt v-form. God fornøyelse

08.04.2019 - 14:42

country flag Fanny wrote:

Hej! Då man under OK ska sticka från *-* 1 gång till på varvet, ska man då upprepa första varvet på diagrammet med 12 maskor (strl M), eller fortsätta på varv 2 med 13 maskor? Kommer fram- och baksidan se likadana ut, eller kommer framsidan vara den med "mönster"?

20.03.2019 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Ja du upprepar första varvet på diagrammet igen. Lycka till!

20.03.2019 - 11:52

country flag Gunvor Madsen wrote:

Superflot bluse og farven er bare flot. Jeg savner generelt anbefalinger om "ease" i jeres opskrifter. Det hjælper ikke så meget at modellen er 170 cm høj og bruger str. M eller S. Det der hjælper er hvor meget ease designeren/I anbefaler i opskriften. Jeg kan godt se denne er "Loose fit", så der skal nok være nogle cm ekstra, men det kunne være rart at se en anbefaling fra jeres side. bedste hilsner Gunvor

11.03.2019 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunvor, hvis du måler en bluse som sidder fint på dig, så finder du de mål som passer bedst i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

14.03.2019 - 11:30

country flag Marite73 wrote:

Pourquoi tricoter de haut en bas je suis pas a l aise comme ca comment faire pour inverser le tricotage

02.03.2019 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marite73, tricoter de haut en bas permet d'ajuster le vêtement à ses propres mesures. Pour le tricoter de haut en bas, il faudra l'ajuster complètement en partant de la fin (bas du pull) pour remonter, mais le motif apparaîtra différemment (les diagrammes sont tricotés de haut en bas). Pour toute assistance individuelle, n'hésitez pas à contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine. Bon tricot!

04.03.2019 - 12:40

country flag Gigi wrote:

J' attends avec impatiente les explications du modèle

26.02.2019 - 05:10