DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Robin Song

Knitted jumper with V-neck in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 202-27
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-197
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 13, orange

KNITTING TENSION:
15 stitches in width and 19 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 105 stitches) minus edge stitches (= 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 21) = 4.9. 
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch

DECREASE TIP-2 (for neck on back piece):
All decreases worked from right side.
Decrease 1 stitch after the 2 stitches in garter stitch from the neck as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease 1 stitch before the 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck as follows: Knit 2 together.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.1 under the sleeve, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, A.1, knit 2, make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work new stitches in stocking stitch

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections and sewn together to finish. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 105-111-117-129-141-153 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left on row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth for 4 cm. Now knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 21-21-21-27-29-33 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 84-90-96-102-112-120 STITCHES. Change to circular needle size 6 mm. Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! At the beginning of the next 2 rows cast off 3-4-4-5-6-6 stitches for armholes = 78-82-88-92-100-108 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, work garter stitch over the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches on the row. When you have worked 2 ridges over these stitches work the next row from the right side as follows: Work the first 32-34-36-38-41-45 stitches and place on 1 thread for right shoulder, cast off the next 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches for neck and work the remaining 32-34-36-38-41-45 stitches. Then finish the shoulders separately. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole, 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches. On the next row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch towards neck – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 31-33-35-37-40-44 stitches. Continue working until the armhole measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm. Cast off. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 105-111-117-129-141-153 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left on row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until the piece measures 4 cm. Now work as follows: Work the first 51-54-57-63-68-75 stitches and decrease at the same time 10-10-10-13-14-16 stitches evenly spaced, work A.1 (= 2 stitches), work the remaining stitches on the row and decrease at the same time 11-11-11-14-15-17 stitches evenly spaced = 84-90-96-102-112-120 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm. Continue back and forth with A.1 over the middle 2 stitches, stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 34-36-37-39-40-42 cm work A.2 over the middle 20 stitches on the row. The 2 middle stitches in A.2 should match the 2 stitches in A.1. When you have worked the row with the star, you have decreased 2 stitches in A.2 and the piece is now divided in the middle. Place the first half of the stitches (seen from the right side) on a thread (= right front piece/shoulder) and continue back and forth over the left front piece/shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole and A.2 towards the neck; i.e. you decrease for neck as shown in the last 6 rows of the diagram (3 decreases are shown in diagram) until you have decreased a total of 8-8-9-9-10-10 times. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm cast off 3-4-4-5-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the row from the armhole. When all the decreases are finished, work as shown in A.3 over the outermost 5 stitches on the left front piece (towards the neck) to finished length. When all the decreases to neck and armhole are finished there are 31-33-35-37-40-44 stitches on shoulder. Continue working until the armhole measures approx. 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm - adjust to match the back piece. Cast off. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.
Place the stitches from the thread back on the circular needle and work right front piece/shoulder in the same way as the left, but reversed; i.e. start from the wrong side, at the neck on the row after the star in A.2 and work as follows: Work the 9 stitches in A.2, stocking stitch until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this and decrease for neck and armhole in the same way as on the left front piece. When the 8-8-9-9-10-10 decreases for neck are finished work A.4 over the outermost 5 stitches towards the neck to finished length. Adjust the length to match left front piece/shoulder and back piece.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 42-42-45-48-48-51 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1, purl 2) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm. The next round is worked as follows: Knit 2, work A.1 over the next 2 stitches (= purl 1 and knit 1), knit to end of round at the same time as you decrease 9-8-8-10-9-11 stitches evenly spaced = 33-34-37-38-39-40 stitches. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and A.1 mid under sleeve. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 8-9-9-9-8-8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Increase alternately every 6 and 7 cm a total of 6 times.
Size M: Increase every 5 cm a total of 7 times.
Size L: Increase every 5 cm a total of 7 times.
Size XL: Increase every 4 cm a total of 8 times.
Size XXL: Increase alternately every 3 and 4 cm a total of 9 times.
Size XXXL: Increase every 3 cm a total of 10 times.
When all the increases are finished there are 45-48-51-54-57-60 stitches on the round. Continue working until the piece measures 45-44-43-42-40-38 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Finish the round in the middle of diagram A.1 (= mid under sleeve). Now continue back and forth with stocking stitch over all stitches (to allow you to sew the sleeve to the armhole). When you have worked back and forth for 2-3-3-4-4-4 cm the sleeve measures a total of 47-47-46-46-44-42 cm. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the cast-off edge. Sew sleeves to body. Sew side seams inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.05.2019
Correction - SLEEVE: Cast on 42-42-45-48-48-51 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
symbols = when this row is finished, the piece is divided for right and left shoulder and each piece is finished separately
symbols = this square has no stitch as the stitch was decreased earlier. The squares mark the decreases for neck mid front
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (59)

country flag Anne wrote:

I am having difficulty with the pattern on robin song. I am not sure how to read the pattern on the front piece. Do I just work the middle two stitches or am I supposed to knit two together then knit one yarn over slip one knit pass slip stitch over.! I am totally confused and long to get on with it.

25.10.2022 - 22:49

country flag Ragnhild Brudevik wrote:

Modell ai-197\r\n\r\nHvilket garn/farge er denne strikket i?\r\nStemmer det at det er Drops air orange, og at dette er utsolgt?\r\nNår kommer det ev inn igjen?\r\nAnbefalt pinne 5 med det garnet - men modell/oppskrift sier pinne 6, hva gjør jeg da?

05.10.2022 - 08:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ragnhild. Genseren er strikket i DROPS Air, farge nr 13, orange. Om fargen er utsolgt i din butikk, kan andre ha fargen inne. Til denne genseren er det strikket litt løst / luftig genser, og da brukt pinne 6. Du må bruke den pinnestr du trenger for å få den oppgitte strikkefastheten i denne oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

09.10.2022 - 13:41

country flag Maria wrote:

È possibile lavorare questo modello con i Ferri dritti? Come posso fare? Grazie per la vostra gentilezza

08.07.2022 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria, questo modello è lavorato in piano, quindi può lavorarlo anche con i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

08.07.2022 - 17:43

country flag Marit Mouridsen wrote:

Strikker genseren Robin Song og lurer på om delene skal sys sammen fra retten eller vrangen. Det narturlige er jo å sy sammen fra vrangen, men syns noe av vitsen med kantmaske i rillestrikk fallet bort da

20.06.2022 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marit, ja du syr blusen sammen fra retsiden :)

21.06.2022 - 14:34

country flag Odilie Pineau wrote:

Bonjour, j'en suis au diagramme A3, je ne comprends pas comment reprendre le rang envers après avoir fini le rang endroit par 2 mailles ensemble et un jeté. Cela veut dire que je dois finir le rang par un jeté (et donc sans autre maille derrière )? Mais comment débuter le rang suivant? Merci !

16.03.2022 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pineau, on tricote A.3 sur le devant gauche (quand quand il est posé à plat), autrement dit, sur l'endroit, tricotez A.3 en début de rang (= 2 m point mousse, 1 m end, 1 dim, 1 jeté) et sur l'envers terminez par A.3 en fin de rang (= 3 m env, 2 m point mousse). Les diminutions de l'encolure sont terminées maintenant, mais vous continuez les jours comme avant, avec 2 m point mousse côté encolure. Bon tricot!

17.03.2022 - 09:43

country flag Angela Pattinasarany wrote:

Meestal moet je meerderen na ee boordsteek. Nu moet ik minderen.. klopt dit? En waarom is dit?

09.08.2021 - 17:54

country flag Florence wrote:

Je veux bien des explications concernant le col en V ( devant du pull )et le nombre de maille à diminuer pour former le V et le nombre de fois que l on répète A2 Merci pour nous votre reponse

02.06.2021 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, A.2 fait la liaison entre A.1 tricoté avant et le début de l'encolure V = jusqu'au rang avec l'étoile, vous tricotez toutes les mailles du devant, après ce rang avec l'étoile, vous continuez chaque devant séparément (les 9 m de gauche pour le devant droit; les 9 m de droite pour le devant gauche). Quand A.2 est fini, diminuez comme dans les 3 derniers rangs sur l'endroit de A.2 jusqu'à ce que vous ayez diminué pour l'encolure 8, 9 ou 10 fois (cf taille) au total. En même temps, vous rabattrez les mailles de l'emmanchure sur le côté et il vous restera 31-33-35-37-40-44 m lorsque toutes les diminutions sont faites. Bon tricot!

03.06.2021 - 08:26

country flag Florence Taquoi wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas votre réponse suivant mon modèle j ai 45 m pour faire le col en V il faut diminuer 24 maille ( A2 répété 8 fois) plus 4 maille pour la Manche je n arrive pas à 33 mailles ai je mal compris qq chose merci pour votre réponse

02.06.2021 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Taquoi, je ne trouve pas d'indication de 45 mailles pour le devant et l'encolure V - quelle taille tricotez-vous et à quel niveau en êtes vous précisément? Au devant? À la manche? Merci pour vos informations complémentaires!

02.06.2021 - 13:24

country flag Florence wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas bien concernant le devant et les diminution pour le col vous dites qu il doit rester 34 mailles pour l épaule mais comme on en diminue 28 m et que l on en a 44 au départ j ai un problème ! Merci pour votre réponse

29.05.2021 - 22:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, en M vous devez avoir 45 m pour chaque devant (= 44 m avant A.1 + 1 m de A.1), vous diminuez un total de 8 m pour l'encolure et vous rabattez 4 m pour l'emmanchure = 45-8-4= il reste 33 mailles pour l'épaule. Bon tricot!

31.05.2021 - 07:51

country flag Vittoria wrote:

Buongiorno, sto eseguendo il diagramma A2 ma ho fatto ripetutamente lo stesso errore su più ferri e me ne sono accorta solo ora. Come faccio a disfare il lavoro? Ho paura di rovinare la treccia traforata...

10.05.2021 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Vittoria, l'unica soluzione per avere un lavoro corretto, è disfare punto per punto fino ad arrivare al primo errore e poi ripartire. Buon lavoro!

10.05.2021 - 22:15