DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Birch Woods

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 202-11
DROPS design: Pattern ai-176
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 02, wheat

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
16 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically with lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: length 40 and 80 cm for edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

----------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.4 and A.5).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch/pattern.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 238 stitches) and divide it by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 38) = 6,3. 
In this example decrease by working alternately approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work in the round on circular needle from mid back, work bottom up to armholes. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, bottom up. Then slip body and sleeves together and finish yoke in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 160-170-190-200-220-240 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows: Work A.2 over all stitches (= 16-17-19-20-22-24 repetitions of 10 stitches). Continue until A.2 has been worked vertically. Then work in stocking stitch until piece measures 12-12-13-14-13-13 cm (or desired measurements - adjust the length of garment here is desired) - REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next round as follows: Work A.4 over all stitches (= 16-17-19-20-22-24 repetitions of 10 stitches). Continue this pattern until A.4 has been worked vertically.
Repeat A.4 1 more time vertically, but work last round as follows: Work 37-39-43-46-50-54 stitches as before (= half back piece), cast off the next 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches for armhole, work 74-80-88-92-100-108 stitches as before (= front piece), cast off the next 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches for armhole and work the last 37-39-43-46-50-54 stitches as before (= half back piece) = 148-158-174-184-200-216 stitches. Piece measures approx. 32-32-33-34-35-35 cm. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 31-33-35-37-39-41 stitches on double pointed needles size 5 mm with Air. Work 2 ridges. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker thread later when increasing mid under sleeve. Switch to double pointed needles/circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Work next round as follows: Knit 0-1-2-3-4-0, A.1 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.2 until 1-2-3-4-5-1 stitches remain on round (= 2-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 10 stitches), A.3 over next stitch, finish by knitting 0-1-2-3-4-0. Continue until A.1 to A.3 have been worked vertically. Then work in stocking stitch - REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 7-7-8-7-9-8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm 10-12-14-15-16-16 times in total = 51-57-63-67-71-73 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-19-19-18-16-14 cm (or desired measurements - adjust the sleeve length here if desired), work A.4 over all stitches – adjust so that stitch with star is mid on top of sleeve, and adjust pattern out to each side. I.e. when increases under sleeve are done, work as follows: Knit 0-3-1-3-0-1, A.4 (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repetitions of 10 stitches) and knit 1-4-2-4-1-2. Work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in stocking stitch, and work the increased stitches in pattern A.4 (make sure to have the same number of decreases and yarn overs in the pattern). Continue this pattern until A.4 has been worked vertically. Repeat A.4 1 more time vertically, but work last round as follows: Cast off the first 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches for armhole, work 45-51-55-59-61-61 stitches as before and cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches for armhole = 45-51-55-59-61-61 stitches. Piece measures approx. 41-39-39-38-38-36 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle 5.5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 238-260-284-302-322-338 stitches. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work A.5 over all stitches - AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow in A.5 decrease evenly as explained below:
ARROW-1: Decrease 38-40-44-42-42-38 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 200-220-240-260-280-300 stitches.
(Now work A.5 20-22-24-26-28-30 times in width).
ARROW-2: Decrease 40-50-50-50-40-40 stitches evenly = 160-170-190-210-240-260 stitches.
(Now work A.5 16-17-19-21-24-26 times in width).
ARROW-3: Decrease 40-40-40-40-40-40 stitches evenly = 120-130-150-170-200-220 stitches.
(Now work A.5 12-13-15-17-20-22 times in width).
ARROW-4: Decrease 28-30-42-30-40-40 stitches evenly = 92-100-108-140-160-180 stitches.
ARROW-5: Decrease 16-20-18-28-42-30 stitches evenly = 76-80-90-112-118-150 stitches.

SIZE: XL-XXL:
ARROW-6: Decrease 18-20 stitches evenly = 94-98 stitches.

SIZE XXXL:
ARROW-6: Decrease 28 stitches evenly = 122 stitches.
ARROW-7: Decrease 20 stitches evenly = 102 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
When entire A.5 has been worked, yoke measures approx. 20-22-23-24-25-27 cm and there are 76-80-90-94-98-102 stitches on round. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work 2 ridges. Loosely cast off but make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge (stitch to larger needle size if needed).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted (= NOT hole)
symbols = knit 2 together - NOTE: On round with black square displace the beginning of round 1 stitch to the left, i.e. pass the first stitch on to right needle without working it, then work repetition in the round. Work stitch passed on to right needle in last repetition. On next round knit all stitches and on next round begin round as before again.
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = round where beginning of round is displaced
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = purl 3 together - NOTE: On round marked with black squares displace the beginning of round 2 stitches to the left, i.e. pass the first 2 stitches on to right needle without working them, then work repetition in the round. Work the 2 stitches passed on to right needle in last repetition. On next round knit all stitches and on next round begin round as before again.
symbols = decrease round
symbols = middle stitch mid on top of sleeve
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 202-11

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag R C Andersson wrote:

Hej, jeg har fundet løsningen= a.5 er 2x a.4 i højden, så se bare bort fra mit tidliger spørgsmål. God dag til jer. MVH

12.04.2023 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Godt at høre :)

13.04.2023 - 11:22

country flag Cathie Castaneda wrote:

Hello! I am making pattern 202-11 for the second time & I just noticed something. Under the “Yoke” instructions it says to decrease 38 stitches on the A.5 stitch chart on Row 2. But then on A.5, Row 3 you increase 40 stitches. I’m confused because it just seems easier to increase just 2 stitches on Row 3. Let me know what you think. Thank you!!! I’m trying to happy knit haha.

11.10.2022 - 01:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Castaneda, the stitches increased on row 3 in A.5 will be decreased on row 11, since they belong to the pattern - decrease 38 sts on row with the arrow (row 2), then work pattern as shown in diagram (increasing 2 sts in each repeat then decreasing these 2 sts in each repeat) and continue decreasing evenly on each row with an arrow as explained in the written pattern. Happy knitting!

11.10.2022 - 08:04

country flag Cathie Castaneda wrote:

Hello again! I didn’t state my previous question good enough. The decreases I am wondering about are in the yoke section. I am supposed to decrease 38-40 stitches and I don’t know where to decrease them in the design of the lacework without it affecting the look of the lacework pattern. I see that the lacework sections decrease each time the decreases are made . I know how to calculate how to calculate how often to do the decreases

10.08.2022 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Castaneda, you have to decrease the stitches evenly on a same round - read more here. This means the pattern won't repeat in height exactly over each other as in the diagram but you will then have the correct number of stitches to repeat the diagrams in width. Happy knitting!

11.08.2022 - 10:35

country flag Cathie Castaneda wrote:

Hello! Regarding the yoke decreasing in pattern 202-11. I understand how to calculate how often to decrease the stitches. I’m not understanding how to decrease in the lacework charts A5. Decreasing in the charts doesn’t leave me enough stitches to do each repetition. I understand that the number of repetitions will be decreased, I just don’t get how to work A5 pattern with less stitches.

10.08.2022 - 09:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Castaneda, you should have enough stitches in each size to repeat A.5 as explained, please note that you should increase 2 sts in each A.5 before working the lace pattern (with the purled stitches), then decrease 2 sts in each A.5 on the last row of this section. Hope it can help, happy knitting!

10.08.2022 - 16:12

country flag Cathie Castaneda wrote:

Previous question correction haha! What is the vertical height of A4? And the vertical height of A5? And how many vertical times is the A4 section repeated on the body and the sleeves? Thank you!

06.08.2022 - 07:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cathie, A.4 is repeated twice in the body and the sleeves vertically. Its length depends on the size: for size XXL A.4 is longer than for size S. For sizes S-XL it's 24 rows; for sizes XXL and XXXL it's 25 rows. Remember to work with the correct gauge so that you will have enough cm to reach the armhole with just 2 repeats of A.4. A.5 measures between 20 and 27 cm depending on the size (the number of rows to work will depend on the size you are working). Happy knitting!

07.08.2022 - 23:00

country flag Cathie Castaneda wrote:

Another question on pattern 202-11. What is the of A4 ? And A5?

06.08.2022 - 07:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cathie, please see answer above.

07.08.2022 - 23:00

country flag Cathie Castaneda wrote:

202-11: In the body, it appears A4 is only worked twice (which equals approximately 12 1/2”) before combining the body with the sleeves. In the sleeve directions it states to work A4 three times on the sleeves before working the yoke & sleeve together. In the 202-11 photo there are 3 sections of A4 on the body (not 2), not 3 like the sleeves. Am I missing working a 3rd repitition of A4 on the body?

05.08.2022 - 22:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cathie, you work A.4 twice in the sleeves and body (in the sleeves it says to work A.4 until finishing vertically and then repeat 1 more times = 2 in total). Remember that you start working A.4 in the body when the piece measures approx. 12 cm (in size S). One repeat is approx. 10 cm in vertical (24 rows for size S, for example), so 2 repeats are 20 cm approx. As you can see, the body up to the yoke measures 31 cm for size S (see measurements schematic below the pattern charts) so with 2 repeats of A.4 you have already reached the armhole. Happy knitting!

07.08.2022 - 23:00

country flag Cathie Castaneda wrote:

I have been trying to get the correct knitting gauge. I have had to knit this pattern with size 11 needles to get the gauge. which seems way too big. The gauge works out to 4 stitches per inch. I think 4 stitches per inch is too few stitches with using ‘C’ weight yarn. That gauge is more when using bulky weight yarn. Any answers? I’m wondering if there could be an error in the printing of the knitting gauge. Thank you!

22.07.2022 - 22:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Cathie, the pattern is correct. Please remember there is no correct needle size; everyone’s knitting is different. Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles. For more information please see the lesson Drops HERE. Happy knitting!

24.07.2022 - 14:32

country flag Eva Skytte wrote:

Jeg skal gentage mønster diagram A4, men skal tage masker ud på 5 pind i diagrammet, hvis jeg gør det i gentagelsen, så bliver hver diagram på 12 masker i stedet for de 10 masker som diagrammet er på, det kommer jo ikke til at passe sammen, så hvad gør jeg , tager masker ud og strikker dem ret på hver side af diagrammet, eller skal jeg ikke tage ud, så diagram stadig passer i maskeantal

29.05.2021 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Du øker med 1 kast, slik det er beskrevet i diagrammet, du vil da på neste omgang ha 12 masker pr rapport av diagram A.4. De nye maskene strikkes som vist i diagrammet (vrang). Ved 13. omg (str. L+XL) minskes maskeantallet og du vil igjen ha 10 masker pr rapport. Bruk gjerne maskemarkører (tråd) mellom hver rapport, så får man en bedre oversikt. mvh DROPS design

31.05.2021 - 09:53

country flag HilaryHilary wrote:

Hi I have this pattern and bought 350g of Drops Big Merino group C yarn - to knit the large size. The tension is fine based on 17 x 22 on the yarn with 5mm needles and 16 x 20 on the pattern with 5.5. needles. However, I have already used up 2 balls and have barely started. Just a few rows past the bottom patterned piece. Is this weight correct? If I need to buy more I will need to do it soon to hopefully get the same dye lot.

26.01.2021 - 12:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear HilaryHilary, both yarn have different meterages, you have to calculate the total amount of yarn required from the total meterage in Air and the meterage of Big Merino - use our yarn converter or read more here. So that in size L you need 350 g DROPS Air but 700 g DROPS Big Merino - 1 ball Air is approx. 150 m while 1 ball Big Merino is approx. 75 m. Happy knitting!

26.01.2021 - 14:47