DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Midnight Mingle

Knitted shawl in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked with lace pattern and garter stitch.

DROPS 201-12
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-031
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Measurements: Width at top: approx. 196 cm. Length in middle: approx. 83 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 g colour 13, light jeans blue

KNITTING TENSION:
19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
18 stitches in width and 36 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: length 80 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.
Diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down.

SHAWL:
Cast on 9 stitches with Sky and circular needle size 5 mm.  
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 13 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch. 
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches. 
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit as far as the stitch with marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 4 stitches increased. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
Rows 2 and 3 are repeated 14 more times = 73 stitches on the needle; adjust so that the last row is worked from the wrong side. (The piece measures approx. 11 cm measured along the mid-stitch).

Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next stitch, A.2 until there are 2 stitches left before the mid-stitch, A.3 over the next 2 stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch (= mid-stitch), A.4 over the next stitch, A.2 until there are 3 stitches left on row, A.5 over the next 2 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until A.1 – A.5 have been completed in height. There are 127 stitches on the needle.
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.6 over the next 4 stitches, work A.7 until there are 5 stitches left before the mid-stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 1 stitch – read INCREASE TIP, work A.8 over the next 5 stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch (= mid-stitch), A.6 over the next 4 stitches, A.7 until there are 6 stitches left on row AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 1 stitch, work A.8 over the next 5 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 133 stitches. Continue this pattern back and forth until A.6 to A.8 have been completed in height. There are 157 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 29 cm along the mid-stitch.

Work A.1 - A.5 in the same way as earlier with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and 1 stitch in garter stitch in middle. When A.1 - A.5 have been completed in height, there are 211 stitches on the needle.
Work A.6, A.7 and A.8 in the same way as earlier – remember to increase 1 stitch on the first row of A.7 (both before and after the mid-stitch = a total of 2 stitches increased on the row) so that there is room for 16 repeats of A.7 on each side of the mid-stitch = 213 stitches. When A.6 - A.8 have been completed in height there are 241 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 46 cm along the mid-stitch.

Work A.1 - A.5 in the same way as earlier with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and 1 stitch in garter stitch in the middle. When A.1 - A.5 have been completed in height there are 295 stitches on the needle.
Work A.6 - A.8 in the same way as earlier – remember to increase 1 stitch on the first row of A.7 (both before and after the mid-stitch = a total of 2 stitches increased on the row) so that there is room for 23 repeats of A.7 on each side of the mid-stitch = 297 stitches. When A.6 to A.8 have been completed in height there are 325 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 63 cm along the mid-stitch.

Work A.1 - A.5 in the same way as earlier with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and 1 stitch in garter stitch in the middle. When A.1 - A.5 have been completed in height there are 379 stitches on the needle.
Work A.6 - A.8 in the same way as earlier – remember to increase 1 stitch on the first row in A.7 (both before and after the mid-stitch = a total of 2 stitches increased on row) so that there is room for 30 repeats of A.7 on each side of the mid-stitch = 381 stitches. When A.6 to A.8 have been completed in height there are 409 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 80 cm along the mid-stitch.

Now work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 1 , 1 yarn over, knit as far as the stitch with marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit until there is 1 stitch left, 1 yarn over and knit 1 = 4 stitches increased.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches. 
Rows 1 and 2 are repeated 1 more time (a total of 2 times). Cast off, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. The yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. The shawl measures approx. 83 cm along the mid-stitch.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Alethea Williams wrote:

Please help? Some people like me need all of the pattern written out due to dyslexia. In our world your marks get very confusing?

06.02.2023 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Williams, we unfortunately only have diagrams to this pattern, but this lesson might help you understanding how to read them. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

07.02.2023 - 10:22

country flag Rita wrote:

Buongiorno, quando nello schema si parla del diagramma A7 e si scrive "allo stesso tempo aumentare una maglia", l'aumento deve essere fatto all'interno di A7 (in un punto qualsiasi) o terminato A7 prima di passare ad A8?

09.05.2021 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rita, può lavorare l'aumento all'interno di A.7. Buon lavoro!

09.05.2021 - 17:22

country flag Pierrette Francoeur Cyr wrote:

Modèle 211-19 j'ai de la difficulté à comprendre le diagramme 1er rang 3m end 2e rg 1m end puis le signe suivant n'apparaît pas dans la légende il est différent de celui dans celui du 12e rg pouvez-vous m'aider à comprendre.

07.12.2020 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Francoeur Cyr, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre de quel diagramme vous parlez car aucun des diagrammes ne se tricote sur 3 mailles au 1er rang. En revanche, au 1er rang de A.1, vous tricotez: 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté et au rang suivant (= sur l'envers), vous tricotez le 1er jeté (l'ovale noir) torse à l'envers pour éviter un trou, et 2 m envers (= le 2ème jeté = l'ovale blanc se tricote à l'envers pour former un jour). Ainsi, les ovales noirs sont des jetés que l'on va toujours tricoter dans le brin arrière et les ovales blancs font partie du point ajouré, ils vont se tricoter dans le brin avant = normalement au rang suivant. Bon tricot!

08.12.2020 - 08:52

country flag Lebigot wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaite faire ce châle avec de la laine Brushed alpaca silk, est-ce que vous pensez que c'est possible? Merci!

30.07.2020 - 13:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, Brushed Alpaca Silk appartient au groupe C de nos laines alors que ce châle se tricote en Sky = laine du groupe B. Vous pourrez donc le tricoter en Brushed Alpaca Silk, mais vous n'aurez probablement pas l'échantillon et il vous faudra donc ajuster les séquences des diagrammes. Retrouvez ici tous les châles tricotés dans une laine du groupe C où vous pouvez utiliser Brushed Alpca Silk. Bon tricot!

30.07.2020 - 15:34

country flag Aurore PARAVY wrote:

Bonsoir, comment peut on avoir 213 mailles après le 1er rang de la seconde série A6-A8 tout en ayant 4 jetés et 1 augmentation a la fin du A7? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse.

09.10.2019 - 21:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Paravy, quand A.1-A.5 sont terminés, on a 211 m, on tricote maintenant A.6-A.7 et A.8 comme avant, mais au 1er rang de A.7, on va augmenter 2 m (1 m de chaque côté de la maille centrale) pour que le nombre de mailles soit juste sur ce 1er rang = on va donc tricoter le 1er rang de A.6, A.7 et A.8 sur 213 mailles; on aura 241 m quand les diagrammes sont finis. Bon tricot!

10.10.2019 - 08:53

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour je veux faire ce chale mais je ne comprend pas cest quoi A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 comment je le fait est ce que cest les deux petit rectangle en haut avec des barres en diagonales merci

11.08.2019 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, A.1 à A.7 sont les noms des diagrammes des points fantaisie à tricoter, vous trouverez la légende des symboles juste avant les premiers diagrammes. Vous trouverez ici comment lire un diagramme. Bon tricot!

12.08.2019 - 08:32

country flag Gunvor Navrestad wrote:

Heisann, hvor mange bunter med garn beregnes til dette sjalet?

16.06.2019 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gunvor. Til dette sjalet trengs 200 gram Sky. Det tilsvarer 4 nøster a 50 gram. God fornøyelse

17.06.2019 - 08:20

country flag Helena Persson wrote:

Teckenförklaringen på tredje raden är felaktig jämfört med norska. Ska vara omslag och hål nästa varv.

06.06.2019 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helena. Takk for beskjed, symbolforklaringen er nå oppdatert. God fornøyelse

06.06.2019 - 14:52

country flag Caroline Lambrichs wrote:

Ik heb onderstaand antwoord gekregen. Op de site vind ik alleen de patronen A1 tot en met A5. Indien mogelijk graag de link tot het volledige telpatroon. Groetjes, Caroline DROPS Design 22.02.2019 kl. 14:10: Dag Caroline, Deze staat helemaal onderaan bij de telpatronen.

22.02.2019 - 21:26

country flag Caroline Lambrichs wrote:

Ik mis bij dit patroon de teltekening van A6 tot en met A 8. Waar vind ik deze? Met vriendelijke breigroetjes, Caroline

21.02.2019 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Caroline,

Deze staat helemaal onderaan bij de telpatronen.

22.02.2019 - 14:10