DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Daisy Delight

Knitted jumper for children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine, DROPS Lima and DROPS Cotton Light. The piece is worked top down with flowers, coloured pattern, garter stitch and stocking stitch. Sizes 3-12 years.

DROPS Children 34-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-052-bn
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350 g colour 34, heather
50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50 g colour 30, mustard

Or use:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350 g colour 6273, cerise
50-50-50-50-50 g colour 0100, off white
50-50-50-50-50 g colour 2923, goldenrod

Or use:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350 g colour 17, dark red
50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50 g colour 28, yellow

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
-------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 17) = 4.2. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch = 2 stitches decreased.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. It is divided for body and sleeves; the body is continued in the round with circular needle and the sleeves in the round with short circular needle, double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 62-66-70-76-82 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and heather/cerise/dark red. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Knit 1 round where you increase 16-18-20-22-23 stitches evenly on round - READ INCREASE TIP-1! = 78-84-90-98-105 stitches.
Purl 1 round. Insert a marker in this round and measure onwards from here. On the next round work according to diagram A.1, (choose diagram for the right size) a total of 13-14-15-14-15 times on the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When diagram A.1 has been completed in height there are 208-224-240-252-270 stitches on the needle. On the next round increase 4-4-6-2-6 stitches evenly = 212-228-246-254-276 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 15-15-16-17-18 cm from the marker.
The next round is worked as follows: Place the first 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6 new stiches, knit 62-66-72-74-76 (= front piece), place the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a thread (= the other sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches and knit 62-66-72-74-76 stitches.

BODY:
There are 136-144-156-160-164 stitches on the round.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6 new stitches cast on under each sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 3 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased) READ INCREASE TIP–2! Repeat the increase every 3-4-5-6-7 cm a total of 3 times = 148-156-168-172-176 stitches on the needle. Continue working as before until the piece measures 12-16-19-22-25 cm. Work 1 round where you increase 12-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly = 160-168-180-184-188 stitches. Work rib in the round with knit 2 / purl 2 for 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from one thread on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm (= 44-48-51-53-62 stitches) and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve (= 50-54-57-59-68 stitches). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round for 2 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Continue with stocking stitch and repeat the decrease every 4-3½-4-4-3½ cm until you have decreased a total of 5-7-7-8-10 times = 40-40-43-43-48 stitches on the round. Work stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 22-27-30-34-37 cm. Work 1 round and increase 4-4-5-5-4 stitches evenly on this round = 44-44-48-48-52 stitches. Work rib in the round with knit 2 / purl 2 for 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten strand.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit with off white
symbols = knit with mustard/goldenrod/yellow
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = on this round increases are made in the middle of the diagram, so pay extra attention so that the pattern is correct when working the next rows
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Daisy Delight

Barbara, United States

Daisy Delight

Simone, Germany

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 34-7

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Elina Kerälä wrote:

Työssä on ohjeen mukaan 84 silmukkaa. Aloitan mallineuleen ja yksi kuvio on ohjeessa 16 silmukkaa. En todella saa menemään kuvioo tasan! Minun vai ohjeen virhe??

10.04.2021 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, piirros neulotaan alhaalta ylös, eli yhdessä mallikerrassa on aluksi vain 6 silmukkaa.

14.04.2021 - 17:04

country flag Gilda ROUSSET wrote:

Concernant ce Modèle n° me-052-bn que je vais tricoter en 11/12 ans, je voudrais faire une encolure moins grande. Pouvez-vous me donner un conseil. Merci d'avance.

25.02.2021 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rousset, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, vous pouvez vous inspirer d'un modèle analogue de même tension ou bien consulter votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

25.02.2021 - 15:20

country flag Eelke wrote:

Mijn kleinkind heeft een hoofdomtrek van 52 cm ( grootste maat) Hoe kan ik dit patroon aanpassen zodat het over haar hoofd kan?

04.02.2021 - 15:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Eelke,

Bij een hoofdomtrek van 52 cm, kom je op een diameter van 16,5 cm. Dat zou dus makkelijk moeten kunnen in de grootste maat. De diameter van de hals in die maat is namelijk ook 16 cm en het werk rekt ook wat mee. Zorg er voordat je de hals losjes opzet, dan weet je zeker dat het past.

06.02.2021 - 11:24

country flag Eelke wrote:

Mijn kleinkind heeft een hoofdomtrek van 52 cm ( grootste maat) Hoe kan ik dit patroon aanpassen zodat het over haar hoofd kan?

04.02.2021 - 13:32

country flag Elly De Hooge wrote:

Ik wil deze kindertrui breien. Begin ik direct met de ring te sluiten? Wan ik kan niet rondbreien met 66 steken. Bovendien past daar een kinderhoofd ook niet door. Zo een kleine halsopening ? Oog sluit ik pa naar de eerste meerdering? Maar dan is de rbbel steek niet goed uitgelegd 1 nld recht 1 nld av.?

01.02.2021 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Elly,

Ja, je begint gelijk in de rondte te breien, dus je moet direct de ring sluiten. Als je de steken losjes opzet, zou het gat van de hals groot genoeg moeten zijn. In het begin kan het wat te klein lijken, maar als je een stukje op weg bent, zal je zien dat het wel past. Je kunt starten met sokkenbreinaalden en later overgaan op een rondbreinaald.

23.02.2021 - 13:41

country flag Gine Marie Hoelsveen wrote:

Er det virkelig riktig at man skal øke før vrangborden skal strikkes? Og heller ikke gå ned en str på pinnen på vrangborden? Den blir jo så vid...!? Strikker 9/10år,og vrangborden på armen er jo nesten for stor til meg (voksen L) FØR jeg skal øke 5m før vrangborden.. Og ja, jeg har eiktoft strikkefasthet med merino extra fine... Jeg velger å løse det nå med å heller felle 5m,og droppa å på bolen. Men er det feil i oppskriften eller skal det være slik? 😊

16.01.2021 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gine. Så flott at du fikk løst det slik at det passer deg. I de fleste nye oppskrifter økes det før vrangborden strikkes. Dette for å få en pener overgang, slik at plagget ikke trekker seg så mye sammen. Det er riktig at det ikke byttes pinne i denne oppskriften. Ønsker du likevel at vrangborden skal strammes litt inn kan det byttes til 1 eller 1/2 pinne mindre om ønskelig. mvh DROPS design

27.01.2021 - 08:01

country flag Birgitte wrote:

Hej jeg forstår ikke jeres råd vedr strikkefastheden i jeres opskrifter🤔 Hvis der er for mange masker til 10 cm- skift til større pinde og hvis for få -skift til mindre pinde??? I mit hovede er det lige omvendt( hvad (jeg også får at vide i min lokale garnbutik) Glædelig jul🎅🏻

10.12.2020 - 12:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitte, Hvis du har for mange masker på 10 cm, så vil du have dine masker større og det får du med tykkere pinde. God fornøjelse!

10.12.2020 - 15:15

country flag Kenzai wrote:

Pouvez vous me donner le nombre de mailles pour un enfant de 8ans. Et 12ans merci

23.11.2020 - 11:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Kenzai, en taille 7/8 ans, suivez la 3ème série de nombres/chiffres et en taille 12 ans, suivez la dernière série de nombres/chiffres - pour les quantités de laine nécessaire ainsi que pour le nombre de mailles à monter, et toutes les mesures et indications du modèle. Bon tricot!

23.11.2020 - 11:47

country flag Birgitta Appelholm wrote:

Hej! Tack för snabbt svar, men jag menar, hur ökar jag en avig maska via ett omslag? Jag var inte tydlig med min fråga. Hälsningar Birgitta

10.11.2020 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitta. Du gör omslag på samma sätt oavsett om det ska bli en rät eller en avig maska. Mvh DROPS Design

10.11.2020 - 11:22

country flag Birgitta Appelholm wrote:

Hur stickas ett omslag i bakre maskbågen vid en avig maska?

10.11.2020 - 08:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitta. I denna video kan du se hur du ska göra. Mvh DROPS Design

10.11.2020 - 09:16