DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.75£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Bali Blue

Knitted long jumper in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked in garter stitch and lace pattern, from the middle outwards in a square. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 199-31
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-749
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-650-750-800-850-1000 g colour 29, ice blue

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
Approx. 15.5 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM: for pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: length 40 cm or 60 cm for stocking stitch on sleeves.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.75£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side!

MEASURING TIP (for square):
To make it easier to measure the square, half the stitches can be placed on an extra circular needle so that it is possible to stretch the piece into a square.
The piece should measure approx. 28 cm measured from the centre out, in the knitting direction (square measures approx. 56 cm x 56 cm)

CASTING-OFF TIP:
So that the cast-off edge is not tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. Yarn overs cast off as normal stitches.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 103 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 14) = 7.4.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 7th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing, knit together alternately each 6th and 7th stitch and each 7th and 8th stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch by purling 2 stitches together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is first worked in the round from the middle of the front/back piece and outwards in a square. Then the rest of the jumper is worked back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. NOTE: Due to the weight of the yarn and the texture, the garment will stretch somewhat after use. The pattern uses measurements which will give room for a complete leaf in height on the square.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 8 stitches with Paris and divide the stitches between 4 double pointed needles size 5 mm (= 2 stitches on each needle). Work pattern A.1 (= 2 stitches on first round) a total of 4 times on the round. Insert a marker thread in the transition between each repeat of A.1. The marker threads follow your work onwards to finished length and will be used to divide the stitches correctly. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been completed in height there are 184 stitches on the round. Continue the pattern as follows: * Work A.2a over the first/next 9 stitches, A.2b over the next 28 stitches (= 2 repeats), A.2c over the next 9 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. When the diagrams have been completed continue in the round in the same way, but each time the diagrams are completed in height there is room for 1 more repeat of A.2b in width between A.2a and A.2c along each side of the square. Continue like this until the piece measures approx. 28 cm from the centre and out to one side – read MEASURING TIP and adjust so that you finish after a complete repeat in height. If the knitting tension is correct, you have now worked 1 repeat of A.1 and 3 repeats of A.2a – A.2c in height; if you have worked fewer or more repeats of A.2a – A.2c in height the number of stitches will not tally with the pattern. There are now 88 stitches along each side of the square. Continue for the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S and M:
Square is now finished. Cast off the stitches along the first side of the square until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread – read CASTING-OFF TIP, work 3 RIDGES – read description above, back and forth over the next stitch (= stitch before the marker thread) and the stitches up to the next marker thread (= bottom of front piece), then cast off these stitches and cut the strand. Cast off the stitches along the next side of the square until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The remaining stitches on the round are up towards the neck and shoulders. Continue as described below.

Sizes L and XL:
Now work pattern back and forth along 3 sides of the square as follows: Work A.3a over the next 9 stitches, A.2b until there are 9 stitches left before the next corner, A.2c, A.2a, A.2b until there are 9 stitches left before the next corner, A.2c, A.2a, A.2b until there are 9 stitches left before the next corner, A.3b. Place the remaining stitches on the round on a thread (without working them). Turn and continue back and forth with this pattern until a complete repeat has been worked in height.
Turn and cast off the stitches along the first side of the square until there is 1 stitch remaining before the marker thread – read CASTING-OFF TIP, work 3 RIDGES – read description above, back and forth over the next stitch (= stitch before the marker thread) and the stitches up to the next marker thread (= bottom of front piece), then cast off these stitches and cut the strand. Cast off the stitches along the next side of the square until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The remaining stitches on the round are up towards the neck and shoulders. Continue as described below.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
Now work pattern back and forth along 3 sides of the square as follows: Work A.3a over the next 9 stitches, A.2b until there are 9 stitches left before the next corner, A.2c, A.2a, A.2b until there are 9 stitches left before the next corner, A.2c, A.2a, A.2b until there are 9 stitches left before the next corner, A.3b. Place the remaining stitches on the round on a thread (without working them). Turn and continue back and forth with this pattern until a complete repeat has been worked in height. Then work 1 more repeat in height in the same way, but there is now room for 1 more repeat of A.2b along each of the 3 sides you are working.
Turn and cast off the stitches along the first side of the square until there is 1 stitch remaining before the marker thread – read CASTING-OFF TIP, work 3 RIDGES – read description above, back and forth over the next stitch (= stitch before the marker thread) and the stitches up to the next marker thread (= bottom of front piece), then cast off these stitches and cut the strand. Cast off the stitches on the next side until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The remaining stitches on the round are up towards the neck and shoulders. Continue as described below.

All sizes:
Now work back and forth along the last side of the square (= up towards the neck and shoulders) as follows: Start from the right side and knit up 0-0-8-8-14-14 stitches along the edge of A.3b which was worked outwards in the side in sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL (does not apply to sizes S and M), work the stitches along the side of the square onto the same circular needle (= 89 stitches in all sizes) and knit up 0-0-8-8-14-14 stitches along the edge of A.3a which was worked outwards in the side in sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL (does not apply to sizes S and M), = approx. 89-89-105-105-117-117 stitches. Work 1 row back from the wrong side - if the number of stitches is not 89-89-105-105-117-117 stitches, increase/decrease evenly on this row – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP).
On the next row cast off the middle 19-19-21-21-23-23 stitches on the row for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then decrease for neck by knitting 2 stitches together inside the 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck. Decrease like this every row from the right side a total of 5 times = approx. 30-30-37-37-42-42 stitches on the shoulder. When the piece measures 6-7-7-8-8-9 cm from the square, cast off – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The front piece measures approx. 64-65-70-71-75-76 cm from the shoulder down.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as for the front piece. Adjust the pattern to match the front piece, so that you work the same number of rows and you have the same number of stitches on front and back pieces. When working garter stitch up towards the neck and shoulders, work as follows: Work garter stitch back and forth until the piece measures 3-4-4-5-5-6 cm. On the next row from the right side cast off the middle 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. On the next row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the neck = approx. 30-30-37-37-42-42 stitches. When the piece measures 6-7-7-8-8-9 cm cast off the stitches. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The jumper measures approx. 64-65-70-71-75-76 cm from the shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm down from the shoulder seam (= marks the armhole). Repeat on the other side of the jumper.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down.
Knit up from the right side 56-60-63-66-69-72 stitches between the 2 marker threads marking the armhole on one side with circular needle size 5.5 mm and Paris. Work stocking stitch with the wrong side out and with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease as follows in the different sizes:
Size S: Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 11 times.
Size M: Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 12 times.
Size L: Decrease like this alternately every cm and every 2 cm a total of 13 times.
Size XL: Decrease like this alternately every cm and every 2.cm a total of 14 times.
Size XXL: Decrease like this every cm a total of 14 times.
Size XXXL: Decrease like this every cm a total of 15 times.
When all the decreases are finished there are 34-36-37-38-41-42 stitches on the row. When the piece measures 27-28-24-25-22-23 cm there is 10 cm left to finished length. Try the garment on and adjust the length of the sleeve (the garment will stretch slightly over the shoulders). Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work pattern as follows: Work 9-10-11-11-13-13 stitches in garter stitch, A.4 over the next 15 stitches, 10-11-11-12-13-14 stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until A.4 is finished. The sleeve measures approx. 37-38-34-35-32-33 cm. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seam and continue down the side seam until there is 15 cm left for the split. Repeat on other side. Tack a thread up and down along the hole at the beginning of the square and tighten so that the hole is smaller. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row knit yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Elly Osephius wrote:

Ik heb aluminium pennen. Maar nu glijden iedere keer de steken eraf. Hoe voorkom ik dit.

21.01.2022 - 22:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Elly,

Misschien brei je iets te los waardoor de steken ervan af glijden?

24.01.2022 - 20:30

country flag Elly Osephius wrote:

Vraag over patroon A1. Na dat je 8 steken verdeeld heb over 4 naalden. Maar volgens patroon A1 moet je in de 2de toer 4 steken hebben en een lus tussen 2 steken. Hoe dan. Meerder je meteen in 1ste toer 2 steken en daar tussen 1 lus. Ook glijden de steken van de pen. Ik heb metalen naalden van 20 cm. Kan ik wel 184 steken over deze korte pennen krijgen zonder dat ze eraf glijden

19.01.2022 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Elly,

Na het opzetten van 8 steken begin je met de eerste naald in A.1. Op de eerste naald in A.1 zijn er 2 steken en je meerdert voor de eerste steek en na de eerste steek. Dan heb je na de eerste naald met 4 keer A.1 in de breedte, dus 16 steken op de naald (8 steken en 8 omslagen.)

21.01.2022 - 08:53

country flag Annie-Claude POULARD wrote:

Merci beaucoup j ai mal lu je faisais des mailles croisées comme pour une torsade au lieu de diminution🤪

17.11.2020 - 20:46

country flag Annie-Claude POULARD wrote:

Bonjour difficultés rang 6 et 7 logiquement 8 mailles +4 jetés rang 6 devraient faire 12 mailles au rang 7. L erreur vient de moi ou du schéma A1? Merci pour votre réponse

17.11.2020 - 08:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Poulard, on rang 6 de A.1, vous n'augmentez que 2 mailles (il y a bien 4 jetés mais 2 diminutions = on augmente 2 mailles), autrement dit, tricotez A.1 ainsi au rang 6: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, glissez 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée, 1 jeté, 2 m end = 10 m. Bon tricot!

17.11.2020 - 10:50

country flag Oksana wrote:

For the back piece it says: work in the same way as for the front piece... When working garter stitch up towards the neck and shoulders, work as follows: Work garter stitch back and forth until the piece measures 3-4-4-5-5-6 cm. Question: where exactly this garter stich starts from the pattern general for both: front and back piece?

26.04.2019 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Oksana, shoulders and neckline are described under Front/ All sizes: Now work back and forth along the last side of the square (= up towards the neck and shoulders) as follows, ie after you have worked ridges/pattern depending on the size, after A.2 has been worked. Happy knitting!

26.04.2019 - 15:44

country flag Janne Kulseth wrote:

Kan ikke finne hele oppskriften, bare diagrammet.

01.02.2019 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janne. Dette skal nå være endret så hele oppskrften er tilgjengelig. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse

04.02.2019 - 15:11

country flag Anne-griet Leupen wrote:

What a delicate and light looking tunic. Lovely!

19.12.2018 - 01:43