DROPS / 199 / 3

Blue Nostalgia by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern on sleeves. Sizes S – XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-026
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour 13, light jeans blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 80 for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 and 80 cm for garter stitch edges.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (51) FAQ

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 100 stitches), and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 10.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 10th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Find your size in the diagrams (applies to A.3 to A.5). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these stitches), slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 100-106-110-116-120-126 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Sky. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Knit 1 round where you increase 10-8-8-10-10-8 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 110-114-118-126-130-134 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 round.
The next round is worked as follows: Work stocking stitch over the first 15-16-17-19-20-21 stitches (= half back piece), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 over 21 stitches (= sleeve), 2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work 30-32-34-38-40-42 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stocking stitch, work A.1 over 21 stitches (= sleeve), 2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch over the last 15-16-17-19-20-21 stitches (= half back piece). There are now 118-122-126-134-138-142 stitches on the needle.
Continue this pattern onwards; i.e. on the sleeves increase on each side as shown in A.1. On the next round knit the yarn overs (= holes) and the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go as shown in A.1. On front and back pieces increase with yarn overs before/after the 2 stitches in stocking stitch in each side (there will be 2 stitches stocking stitch between each raglan increase). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted (= no holes) and the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd round. You increase a total of 8 stitches on each increase-round (= 4 yarn overs + 4 stitches increased in A.1). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height there are 230-234-238-246-250-254 stitches on the needle.
Continue this pattern onwards, i.e. the pattern repeats itself as shown in A.1. Each time you have worked 20 rounds there will be room for 1 more repeat of lace pattern in width on each sleeve.
When you have increased a total of 24-27-29-32-34-38 times there are 302-330-350-382-402-438 stitches on the needle and the piece measures 18-20-22-24-25-28 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
Continue with stocking stitch and pattern as before, but without increasing; i.e. the 69-75-79-85-89-97 stitches in A.1 are worked as follows: Work A.2 (= 2 stitches), 2-0-2-0-2-1 stitches in stocking stitch, starting on the round marked with an arrow for your size work A.3 (= 10 stitches), A.4 over the next 40-50-50-60-60-70 stitches (= 4-5-5-6-6-7 reports of 10 stitches), A.5 (= 11 stitches), 2-0-2-0-2-1 stitches in stocking stitch and A.6 (= 2 stitches).
Continue until the piece measures approx. 23-25-26-28-30-32 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 41-45-49-54-59-65 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece), place the next 69-75-77-83-83-89 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 82-90-98-108-118-130 stitches stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 69-75-77-83-83-89 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 41-45-49-54-59-65 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-200-220-240-264-288 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards; they will be used a little later when decreasing/increasing. Work stocking stitch. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP = 4 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every 3 cm a total of 4 times = 168-184-204-224-248-272 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 14 cm from the division. Now increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 2 cm a total of 7 times = 196-212-232-252-276-300 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm from the division. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Loosely cast off, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 4 mm. The jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 69-75-77-83-83-89 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 79-85-89-95-97-103 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used a little later when decreasing. Start the round at the marker thread. Start on the correct round in the diagrams so that the pattern continues from the yoke and work as follows: Work 4-2-4-2-3-1 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3 (= 10 stitches), A.4 over the next 50-60-60-70-70-80 stitches (= 5-6-6-7-7-8 repeats of 10 stitches), A.5 (= 11 stitches) and 4-2-4-2-3-1 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd round a total of 14-15-15-16-15-16 times = 51-55-59-63-67-71 stitches. The stitches which do not fit into the pattern as you decrease are worked in stocking stitch, but make sure that if decreases are in the pattern you also make a yarn over. Continue working until the piece measures 21-19-19-17-15-14 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Loosely cast off, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 4 mm. Sleeve measures approx. 22-20-20-18-16-15 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= shows 1 repeat in height and how the lace patterns are positioned above each other
= this square has no stitch; go straight to the next symbol in the diagram



Monica 18.08.2019 - 11:38:

Ik brei dit patroon in maat M en nu ik verder wil gaan met de mouwen klopt het patroon niet meer. Er staat dat ik 2 st in tricot moet breien, dan A.3 (over de 3 van de 5 nieuwe st + de 2 st van A.2 + de 5 eerste st van de vorige A.3) = 10 st, dan A.4 over de volgende 60 st, dan A.5 (de laatste 6 st van de vorige A.5 + de 2 st van A.2 + 3 st van de nieuwe st) en 2 st in tricot. Alle av st komen nu in het midden van mijn vorige av st...

Karin 17.08.2019 - 16:37:

Skal jeg beggynne å øke etter 20omg eller skal jeg strikke mønster A1ferdig først,og 20 omgger etter

Jenny 31.07.2019 - 18:43:

Hei! Olen kohdassa, jossa minulla on 234 silmukkaa (koko M). Samaa mallikerta toistetaan, kunnes lisäyskerroksia on 27 kpl. Tässä kohtaa silmukoita pitäisi olla ohjeen mukaan 330 kpl. Kuitenkin jokaisella lisäyskerroksella työhön lisätään 8 silmukkaa. Voisitteko selventää minulle tätä työn osaa, sillä omat laskutoimitukseni eivät täsmää ohjeen kanssa. Laskujeni mukaan 27 lisäyskerrosten jälkeen olisi silmukoita reilusti enemmän, kuin ohjeessa. Kiitos jo etukäteen!

Danielle 28.07.2019 - 22:48:

Quand A-1 a été tricoté 1 fois = 238 mailles Mais après je retricote le schéma A-1 au complet une autre fois où je recommence où il y a une barre du côté droite du schéma...pour faire les 20 rangs? Merci

Kerry 25.07.2019 - 16:55:

Pls can you clarify how the increases on the front and back bodice work.... Firstly, is there increases on every round and should all increases be knitted so as not to get holes? Thank you for your assistance

DROPS Design 25.07.2019 kl. 18:02:

Hi Kerry! On front and back pieces increase with yarn overs before/after the 2 stitches in stocking stitch in each side (there will be 2 stitches stocking stitch between each raglan increase). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted (= no holes) and the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd round. Happy knitting!

Jette Jensen 17.07.2019 - 09:29:

Strikkefastheden er opgivet til 21 m. i bredden og 28 p. i højden = 10x10 cm i glat strik, men ikke hvilken str. pind ?

Natacha 04.07.2019 - 16:39:

Histoire de manche suite:alors pour celles que ça intéresse ,j'ai tricoté les manches sans diminutions,juste au niveau du poignet diminution d'un coup de 30 mailles , 2 rangs côte mousse et voilà .Résultat : canon,mais c'est vrai que ça change l'esprit de cet ouvrage, c'est autre chose avec des manches bouffantes,j'aime bien ce côté romantique ...

Natacha 26.06.2019 - 11:49:

Je tricote la taille S . Perso,je termine la première manche , c'est , à mon avis trop serré .Ça ne rend pas comme sur la photo.J'envisage : détricotage Arggg !!! jusqu’au 2 cm après la séparation et faire la manche sans diminution , carrément .Je dirai le résultat .

Mona 23.06.2019 - 09:29:

Forstår ikke helt at hver udtagning er på 8 masker og så står der at når jeg har taget ud 27 gange ( m) har jeg 330 masker og når jeg har taget ud 29 gange (l) så har jeg 350 maske . Jeg er nemlig nødt til at skifte størrelse her fra m til l

DROPS Design 27.06.2019 kl. 10:09:

Hei Mona. Før økingene til raglan begynner har du 114 masker på pinnen i størrelse M. Så skal du øke 8 masker totalt 27 ganger (altså inkludert første økningen, som er forklart i oppskriften). 8 x 27 = 216 masker økt. 114 + 216 = 330 masker på pinnen. Det samme gjelder størrelse L: du har 118 masker før økningene, så øker du 8 masker 29 ganger (= 232 masker økt), og du har da 350 masker på pinnen. God fornøyelse.

Maritha Magnusson 21.05.2019 - 08:59:

Hej igen. Är det rätt att det blir en vriden maska och 2slätstickade maskor och en inte vriden på armen i början av ärmen. Eller är det vanlig raglan med vriden två slätstickning och en vriden. Den senare bör väl vara ej vriden så det blir hål på ärmen.

DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 07:52:

Hej. Vid raglanökningen stickas omslagen på ärmarna räta (=hål) på nästa varv, och omslagen på fram- och bakstycket stickas vridet räta (=inte hål) på nästa varv. Lycka till!

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