DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Happy Stripes

Knitted jumper with balloon sleeves in 2 strands DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with raglan and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 202-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-180
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 16, blue
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 01, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 24, pink
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 18, light grey green
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 22, yellow
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 27, sea green
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 14, heather
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 07, ruby red
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 09, navy blue


KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM: length 60 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch with 2 strands.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM: for garter stitch edge on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for garter stitch edge on neck and bottom of body.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Colour combinations shown are (in the same order as the materials list above):
A) DROPS Air 10, 01, 15, 27, 02, 18, 16, 09, 11.
B) DROPS Air 12, 01, 18, 21, 02, 11, 16, 09, 19.
C) DROPS Air 20, 01, 25, 08, 02, 15, 14, 07, 13.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 54 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 9. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after each 9th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

STRIPES:
See diagram A.1 and A.2. The stripes are worked in stocking stitch with 2 strands Air. Work A.1 once, then work A.2 to finished length (applies to both body and sleeves).

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads as follows: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased and a total of 8 stitches increased on round.
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for mid under sleeve):
Increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve as follows: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased.
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for sleeves and body. The body is worked in the round with circular needle, top down to finished length. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. The whole garment is worked in 2 strands Air.

NECK:
Cast on 54-56-58-62-64-66 stitches with short circular needle size 7 mm and 2 strands blue. Work 3 RIDGES in the round – read description above. Knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-2-6-4-2 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 60-60-60-68-68-68 stitches. Change to circular needle size 9 mm and work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches):
Count 2 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch (=sleeve), count 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch (=back piece), count 10 stitches in all sizes, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch (= sleeve), count 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch (= front piece), count 8 stitches in all sizes (= sleeve).
Then work as follows: Work STRIPES – read description above. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 12-14-15-16-17-19 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase to raglan there are 156-172-180-196-204-220 stitches on the needle. Continue with stripes until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 48-52-54-60-64-70 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), place the next 30-34-36-38-38-40 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 48-52-54-60-64-70 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 30-34-36-38-38-40 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 104-112-120-132-144-156 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round and continue the stripes in A.1. When A.1 has been completed, work A.2 to finished length.
When the piece measures 25 cm from the division, change to circular needle size 7 mm and 2 strands blue.
Work garter stitch in the round for 3 cm and finish with a purled round. Loosely cast off with knit, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger needle. The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 30-34-36-38-38-40 stitches from the thread on the one side of the body on double pointed needles 9 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 34-38-42-44-46-48 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards. The marker thread will be used when increasing mid under sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round and continue the stripes in the same way as on the body (important to continue on the same round as on the body after the yoke).
When the sleeve measures 4 cm from the division in all sizes, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4-5-5-5-4½-4½ cm a total of 8-7-6-6-6-6 times = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-40-39-37 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly in all sizes = 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 23-24-25-26-27-28 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm. Work garter stitch in the round for 3 cm and finish after a purled round. Cast off with knit, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight. The sleeve measures approx. 49-48-46-44-43-41 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.06.2019
Beginning of round = transition between left sleeve and back piece.
Updated online: 20.01.2020
Correction: YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches):
Count 2 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch (=sleeve), count 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch (=back piece), count 10 stitches in all sizes, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch (= sleeve), count 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch (= front piece), count 8 stitches in all sizes (= sleeve).

Diagram

symbols = blue
symbols = off white
symbols = pink
symbols = ruby red
symbols = yellow
symbols = heather
symbols = sea green
symbols = light grey green
symbols = navy blue
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (100)

country flag Elin Hirmoen wrote:

Hvordan får jeg bestilt alternativ B (happy stripes)

25.02.2021 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elin, du ser hvilke farver der er brugt i garnalternativ B lige under pindene. Klik på Beställ og bestil de farver i den kombination du synes om :)

26.02.2021 - 07:54

country flag Happy Stripes wrote:

I have been working this pattern ,have got to the division where it says work 25cm then change to smaller size needles ,given a side seam of 25cm looking at picture on pattern it does not match the number of stripes and not long enough ,

21.02.2021 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, this might depends on your tension in height, feel free to adjust the length if required - you will find all finished measurements in the chart at the bottom of the pattern, check out with a similar garment you have and like the shape and/or try out the jumper and knit to the required length. Happy knitting!

22.02.2021 - 08:42

country flag Mia Eriksen wrote:

Kan man strikke denne med 1 tråd, så den ikke bliver så tyk?

17.02.2021 - 09:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mia, da er det lettere at finde en model i DROPS Air og så strikke striberne efter denne opskrift :)

17.02.2021 - 11:34

country flag Erica Lopez wrote:

I would be very grateful if you offer the possibility to read the patterns in spanish language. Also I would like to have the explanations to work with two needles, but I am an old woman and I have some difficulties to learn new techniques , as circular needles. Thank you very much.

11.02.2021 - 07:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Erica, On the left side, under the picture you can change the language. The Spanish version of this particular pattern is available HERE. As for knitting with two needles, you will find how to adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles HERE. Happy knitting!

11.02.2021 - 07:48

country flag Corry Dubois wrote:

Als ik de raglan startm et 2 steken en e rij eindig met 8 dan zit ik toch met begin van de naald in mijn mouw

30.01.2021 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Corry,

Ja dat klopt. Je begint 2 steken voor de raglan die tussen de mouw en het achterpand zit. Je eindigt daar ook weer met 8 steken na de laatst geplaatste markeerdraad. Op beide mouwen zitten 10 steken tussen de markeerdraden. Op die manier heb je de overgang van de strepen bij de raglan en later bij de zijnaad. Alleen zie ik dat het bij het verdelen van het werk voor het lijf en de mouwen uitgelegd wordt dat je vanaf midden achter, dus dit moet ik even navragen bij de ontwerpafdeling om evt. aan te passen...

31.01.2021 - 20:38

country flag Ida wrote:

Hej :-) Jeg ønsker at strikke denne trøje i ensfarvet garn (stadigvæk Drops Air). Hvor meget garn skal jeg da bruge?

26.01.2021 - 21:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ida, denne bluse strikkes i 2xair som denne i ensfarvet DROPS 216-23 Prøv at sammenligne målene og tag hellere et par nøgler ekstra en for lidt, det er så trist med for lidt garn :)

28.01.2021 - 09:53

country flag Věra wrote:

Dobrý den,prosím nerozumím rozmístění značek....1značka za druhé oko-rukáv......když začínáme uprostřed zad tak jak mi to pak bude vycházet?pak budu začínat každou kruhovou řadu na rukávu......mužete mi prosím pomociradou?....děkuji

23.01.2021 - 19:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Věro, ano - začátek kruhové řady se v tuto chvíli posouvá mezi rukáv a zadní díl. To proto, aby se "schoval", splynul s krajem raglánového "švu", tj. místem, kde přidáváme oka. Hodně zdaru! Hana

23.01.2021 - 22:01

country flag Lena wrote:

Vielen Dank für die Beantwortung meiner ersten Frage! Ich hätte noch eine zweite: Könnte ich den Pullover einfarbig in Drops Wish stricken und wenn ja, wie viel Wolle bräuchte ich dann? Vielen Dank, Lena

23.01.2021 - 10:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lena, hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen - und wie die neue Menge kalkuliert wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2021 - 08:32

country flag Lena wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team! Ich habe eine Frage bzgl. des Garnverbrauchs: Ich möchte diesen Pullover einfarbig stricken und würde gern wissen, ob der Garnverbrauch bei 600g bleibt oder ob ich weniger benötige, wenn ich keine verschiedenfarbigen Streifen habe? Vielen Dank!

21.01.2021 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lena, für diesen Pullover mit 1 Farbe sollten Sie nur ca 400-450-500-550-600-650g DROPS Air brauchen. Viel spaß beim stricken!

21.01.2021 - 16:40

country flag Roberta wrote:

Volendo utilizzare un unico colore a 2 fili di quanto filato ho bisogno ? grazie

17.01.2021 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Roberta, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

17.01.2021 - 14:38