The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Willow Lane Jacket |
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Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé. Worked back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 197-36 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (back and forth): 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. STRIPES: * Work 1 ridge brown, 1 ridge grey *, work from *-*. DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side by knitting 2 stitches together. DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly): To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 92 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 20.5. In this example work alternately approx. every 19th and 20th stitch and every 20th and 21st stitch together and do not decrease over bands. BUTTONHOLES: Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole. Bind off decrease for buttonholes when piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17¾"-18½"-19"-19¾"-20"-21" In addition decrease for a buttonhole on neck edge. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn together when finished. The entire jacket is worked in garter stitch and stripes. Sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Decrease for a buttonhole on band and 1 buttonhole on neck edge. JACKET: BACK PIECE: Cast on 98-104-110-118-126-136 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Then work with 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé. Now work in garter stitch and STRIPES - read explanation above, until piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm = 15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼". REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 2-2-3-3-4-4 stitches for armholes = 94-100-104-112-118-128 stitches. Continue back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝", bind off the middle 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of next row from neck = 30-33-34-38-40-45 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26. Bind off, but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Bind off yarn over as stitch. Work the other shoulder the same way. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 53-56-59-63-67-72 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in the side and 5 band stitches towards mid front) on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Then work with 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé. Now work in garter stitch and stripes, until piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm = 15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼". On next row from wrong side bind off 2-2-3-3-4-4 stitches for armholes in the side = 51-54-56-60-63-68 stitches. Continue back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. Remember BUTTONHOLES – read explanation above, when piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17¾"-18½"-19"-19¾"-20"-21". When piece measures 47-49-50-52-53-55 cm = 18½"-19¼"-19¾"-20½"-21"-21⅝", slip the first 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches (from right side) on a stitch holder for neck. Then bind off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 30-33-34-38-40-45 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26". Bind off, but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Bind off yarn over as stitch. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 53-56-59-63-67-72 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in the side and 5 band stitches towards mid front) on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Then work with 1 strand Alpaca Bouclé. Now work in garter stitch and stripes, until piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm =15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17 1/4. On next row from right side bind off 2-2-3-3-4-4 stitches for armholes in the side = 51-54-56-60-63-68 stitches. Continue back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. When piece measures 47-49-50-52-53-55 cm = 18½"-19¼"-19¾"-20½"-21"-21⅝", slip the first 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches (from wrong side) on a stitch holder for neck. Then bind off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 30-33-34-38-40-45 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26".. Bind off, but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Bind off yarn over as stitch. SLEEVE: Cast on 53-56-59-62-65-68 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand brown. Work in garter stitch and stripes back and forth. When piece measures 4 cm = 1½", decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP-1! Decrease like this approx. every 4-3-3-3-3-2 cm = 1½"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-¾" 7-8-8-9-10-11 times in total = 39-40-43-44-45-46 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 41-40-40-38-37-35 cm = 16⅛"-15¾"-15¾"-15"-14½"-13¾". Work 2 ridges with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Bind off, but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew sleeves in body down to stitches bind off for armhole. Sew inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside cast-on edge on sleeves. Sew seam under sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat in the other side. NECK EDGE: Work neck edge back and forth on circular needle. Begin with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and 1 strand in each color (= 2 strands) and pick up from right side 92-92-97-97-102-102 stitches (including stitches from stitch holders). Knit 1 row from wrong side. Continue by knitting 8 rows (= 4 ridges), AT THE SAME TIME on every row from right side decrease 4 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-2. When neck edge measures 1 cm = ⅜", decrease for buttonholes at the beginning of row from right side as follows: Knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over (on next row knit yarn over = hole) = 76-76-81-81-86-86 stitches. Work 2 more ridges. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (17)
Susie wrote:
Hi, On Willow Lane Jacket, am I decreasing from the (15) sts on stitch holder or from the remaining sts on needle? I cannot see any reference to rejoining yarn to 15 sts on stitch holder… Many thanks.
04.11.2023 - 15:54DROPS Design answered:
Dear Susie, if you are talking about the times when you slip stitches, you will slip them for the neck from the sts in the needle and then pick them up when you work the neck at the end. Happy knitting!
05.11.2023 - 20:07Christina James wrote:
Hello, I am so sorry that I don't understand Danish. Would it be possible to have the instructions for this lovely garment in English, please? Many thanks Christina
25.10.2021 - 19:08Christine Tercier wrote:
Bonjour, Pour les devants il est noté de faire 5 mailles de bordure devant. Je ne comprends pas comment elles doivent se faire. Merci pour votre réponse.
20.10.2021 - 17:44DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Tercier, elles se tricotent au point mousse comme les autres mailles, mais ces 5 mailles sont pour la bordure des devant: pour les boutonnières et les boutons. Bon tricot!
21.10.2021 - 06:52Ilsemarie wrote:
Hallo, heißt in Streifen stricken, dass in je einer Farbe 1x hin- und zurück gestrickt wird, z.B. in Grau, und dann in der anderen Farbe, also in Braun auch wieder hin- und zurück gestrickt wird? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße, Ilsemarie Weber
22.09.2021 - 13:19DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ilsemarie, für die Streifen stricken Sie jeweils 1 krausrippe = 2 Reihen rechts mit braun/ 1 krausrippe = 2 Reihen rechts mit grau (oder die gewüsnchten Fraben). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
22.09.2021 - 17:14Paquerette Gagnon wrote:
Les manches: après avoir tricoté 40cm je ne comprends pas ce qui suit : tricoter 2 cotes mousse st ce que ca veut dire 2 rangs . Il m semble que la grandeur des manches n'est pas très longue 41 cm elle v a en bas des épaules est-ce correct
21.09.2021 - 02:27DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Gagnon, pour obtenir 1 côte mousse, on doit tricoter 2 rangs endroit cf POINT MOUSSE (en allers et retours):, pour tricoter 2 côtes mousse, on va devoir tricoter 4 rangs endroit. Retrouvez toutes les mesures finales par taille dans le schéma en bas de page, comparez-les à un vêtement analogue dont vous aimez la forme pour ajuster si besoin (n'oubliez pas que les épaules sont larges et qu'elles influencent automatiquement la longueur des manches). Bon tricot!
21.09.2021 - 09:11Sylvie Vaillancourt wrote:
Bonjour, Pour ce modele, doit on monter les mailles avec les deux fils ensembles? Est-ce qu´il y a des cotes dans le bas de la veste et au poignets? Car 1 cote de mousse et un point de mousse pour moi c´est toujours tricote en endroit sur les deux cotes...c´est un peu confus. Merci de me repondre sous peu, Sylvie
18.06.2021 - 20:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Vaillancourt, on monte effectivement les mailles avec 2 fils en même temps (= 1 de chaque couleur) pour que le montage soit suffisamment souple, et on tricote 2 côtes mousse (= 4 rangs endroit - cf POINT MOUSSE) puis on continue avec juste 1 seul fil en suivant les rayures. Bon tricot!
21.06.2021 - 07:23Lise Kjær wrote:
Jeg er igang med at strikke denne i den største størrelse.....kan ikke forstå opskriften. Det virker som om, ærmet skal være kortere i de store størrelser end i de små størrelser.....Er det ikke en fejl ? Det virker ikke logisk for mig:-)
26.03.2020 - 08:43DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lise. Man har ikke lengre armer selv om man bruker større plagg. Vidden på plagget + ermlengden på den største størrelsen blir større enn vidden + ermlengden på den minste størrelsen. God Fornøyelse!
30.03.2020 - 13:22Petra Voermans wrote:
Ik heb nog heel veel laine coton van Phildar 50% wol 50% katoen , 22 st 2n 29 nl zijn 10x10 cm, naalden 3,5 , kan ik dat gebruiken?
09.03.2020 - 16:36DROPS Design answered:
Dag Petra,
Het beste is om even een proeflapje te maken en te kijken wat de stekenverhouding is. Op basis daarvan kun je een patroon uitzoeken.
10.03.2020 - 20:03Nele wrote:
Stricke die Jacke bereits zum zweiten Mal. Diesmal in eine anderen Farbkombi. Lässt sich sehr schön tragen und ist kuschelweich.
20.02.2020 - 12:57Hanneke wrote:
Is de kantsteek voor de voorpanden de eerste en laatste steek recht breien? Of anders?
19.01.2020 - 14:41DROPS Design answered:
Dag Hanneke,
Bij de voorpanden zitten de kantsteken alleen in de zijkanten (dus waar de zijnaden komen) en niet bij midden voor. De kantsteken worden altijd in ribbelsteek gebreid
19.01.2020 - 18:02