DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Green Wood

Knitted fitted jumper in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked in stocking stitch with raglan and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 196-29
DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-141
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 7820, green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 264 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 64) = 4.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body): 
Start 5 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeve):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves (i.e. decrease on each side of A.2) = 8 stitches decreased each time.
Decrease as follows before A.2: Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.2, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after A.2: slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT SUMMARY OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. Then the body and sleeves are placed on the same circular needle and the yoke is worked in the round to finished length.

BODY:
Cast on 264-292-320-352-388-424 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 64-72-80-88-96-104 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 200-220-240-264-292-320 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 6 cm in all sizes, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 100-110-120-132-146-160 stitches (= in the sides). On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 5 times in each side = 180-200-220-244-272-300 stitches on the needle.
When the piece measures 20 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 2 cm a total of 5 times in each side = 200-220-240-264-292-320 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 30 cm in all sizes. On the next round cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches in each side for the armholes (i.e. cast off 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of both marker threads). There are now 90-100-108-120-132-144 stitches left on front and back pieces.
Lay the piece to one side and work sleeves as described below.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles, change to short circular needle when necessary.
Cast on 56-60-60-64-68-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 10-12-10-12-12-10 stitches evenly on round = 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 8 cm in all sizes, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). On the next round increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 9-9-11-10-11-7 times and then every 1 cm a total of 5-9-11-13-13-18 times = 74-84-94-98-104-108 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 45-44-42-41-39-37 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). On the next round cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid under sleeve for the armhole (i.e. cast off 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 64-74-82-86-90-92 stitches left on needle. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on same circular needle as the body, where you cast off stitches for the armholes (do this without working the stitches) = 308-348-380-412-444-472 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in each transition between body and sleeves = 4 markers. Imagine that the garment is on the body and start the round by the marker in the transition between back piece and left arm, i.e. start 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches before this marker and work the first round as follows: Work A.1 (= 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches which increase to 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches), work stocking stitch over the sleeve until there are 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches left before the next marker, work A.1 (= 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches which increase to 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches), stocking stitch over the front piece until there are 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches left before the next marker. Work A.1 (= 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches which increase to 23-23-23-25-25-25 stitches), stocking stitch over the sleeve until there are 8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches left before the next marker, work A.1 (= 17-17-17-19-19-19 stitches which increase to 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches) and stocking stitch over the back piece to the end of the round = 332-372-404-444-476-504 stitches on the needle.
Continue the pattern like this, but when A.1 has been completed work A.2 over the 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches in each raglan line (due to the pattern the number of stitches in A.2 will vary between 23 and 21 stitches in sizes S, M and L and between 27 and 25 stitches in XL, XXL and XXXL).
AT THE SAME TIME on the round where you start A.2 begin to decrease to RAGLAN in each transition between body and sleeves – read description above. Continue to decrease to raglan every 4th round a total of 9-8-8-8-8-9 times and then every 2nd round a total of 11-16-19-22-25-26 times.
After the last decrease there are 172-180-188-204-212-224 stitches left on the needle and the piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.
On the next round knit over knit and purl over purl AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches evenly over A.2 in each raglan line = 148-156-164-172-180-192 stitches left on needle.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 24-28-32-32-36-40 evenly on round – remember DECREASE TIP-1 = 124-128-132-140-144-152 stitches. Then work neck as described below.

NECK:
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = this square has no stitch because the stitch was decreased earlier; go directly to next symbol in diagram.
symbols = knit 3, pass the first stitch knitted over the 2 last stitches so that it lies around the other 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = knit 1 both in front and back of same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Nicole wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team. ich habe einen Rechenfehler in der Anleitung gefunden. Rumpfteil in Größe L müßte nach den Abnahmen für die Ärmel 116 Maschen auf der Nadel sein. Hoffentlich geht es trotzdem auf oder hat das Auswirkungen auf die Ärmel? Viele Grüße und herzlichen Dank für die tollen Anleitungen.

23.03.2024 - 20:06

country flag Waltraud wrote:

Für die Ärmel habe ich nur das Nadelspiel gebraucht (Größe S). Es war etwas mühsam, für die Passe alles auf eine Rundnadel zu schieben. Ich kann mir nicht vorstellen, dass das für die großen Größen funktionieren kann. Es war für Größe S schon einfacher, 2 lange Rundnadeln zu verwenden (die 2. jeweils zum Abstricken der Vorrunde). Und sobald man das Muster für die Raglanschrägung kapiert hat, ist es ganz einfach. Der fertige Pullover sieht fabelhaft aus!

09.02.2024 - 14:35

country flag Pascale wrote:

Bonjour, J’ai demandé récemment si je pouvais faire ce modèle en aller-retour. Vous m’avez répondu que oui et je lai déjà fait ce genre d’adaptations . Mais ma question était mal posée . Mon souci se portait essentiellement sur le raglan avec les torsades associées . Les torsades se retrouvent sur le devant et le dos, sur les manches , moitié moitié ? Ça m’a l’air compliqué de tout adapter. Merci pour votre réponse

29.03.2023 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascale, effectivement, les torsades se trouvent à mi-chemin entre le dos/le devant et les manches, elles sont tricotées pour les raglans. Il est effectivement parfois plus simple de tricoter en rond comme indiqué. N'hésitez pas à essayer les aiguilles circulaires, nombreuses sont celles qui les ont finalement domptées après avoir essayé; Vous trouverez sinon d'autres modèles raglan tricotés en rangs, si c'est plus simple pour vous. Bon tricot!

29.03.2023 - 10:27

country flag Barbaral wrote:

Wzór A1 nie liczy 17 oczek tylko13 A z dodatkowymi 19 przez to jeśli zaczniemy wzór 9 oczek przed markerem to wyjdzie on przesunięty na plecy.Prosze o odpowiedź.Pozdrawiam

27.03.2023 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Basiu, schemat A.1 liczy 17 oczek dla rozmiarów S, M i L oraz 19 oczek dla rozmiarów XL, XXL i XXXL. Musisz wybrać właściwy schemat, w zależności od tego jaki rozmiar wykonujesz. Napisz który rozmiar wykonujesz i w którym momencie we wzorze się znajdujesz (chyba że wyjaśnienia powyżej rozwiązują już problem). Pozdrawiamy!

28.03.2023 - 08:01

country flag Pascale wrote:

Bonjour,\r\nEst il possible de réaliser ce modèle en aller-retours ?\r\nMerci pour votre réponse

25.03.2023 - 11:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascale, vous pouvez mais il vous faudra recalculer chaque pièce séparément, cette leçon vous donnera quelques pistes, il peut être parfois plus simple de tricoter en rond, n'hésitez pas à essayer, nombreuses sont celles qui ont réussi à dompter les aiguilles circulaires après avoir osé essayer. Bon tricot!

27.03.2023 - 10:05

country flag STEPHANIE GREENSIDE wrote:

My chest measurement is 46 inches. How much ease is in the pattern?

03.02.2022 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Greenside, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to the ones in the chart, this will be the best way to find out the matching size and then decide if you rather like to get a positive or a negative ease. Read more here. Happy knitting!

04.02.2022 - 08:32

country flag Marlene Meier wrote:

Auf dem Bild sieht man bei beiden Ärmeln auf Höhe des Beginns der Raglanschrägung eine Linie, so als wäre dort eine Naht. In der Beschreibung finde ich dafür keine Erklärung. Können Sie mir helfen?

23.01.2022 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Meier, stricken Sie den Pullover, genauso wie es erklärt wird, dh von unten nach oben und die Passen über alle Maschen in der Runde stricken. Der Pullover war zuerst mit kurzen Ärmel gemeint aber dann haben wir uns für lange Ärmel entschieden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.01.2022 - 11:11

country flag Katja wrote:

Under beskrivningen ok, fjärde raden. ´börja 9 maskor FÖR markör`. För? Vadå för? Eller ska det stå före?

22.12.2021 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Katja. Ja vi menar före. Tack för info, detta är nu rättat. Mvh DROPS Design

23.12.2021 - 07:24

country flag Njusja wrote:

Hoi ik wil dit patroon zonder kabel breien,hoe verloopt dan de mindering van de raglan? Met vriendelijke groet Njusja

30.11.2020 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Njusja,

Je kunt dit op dezelfde manier doen als aangegeven in het patroon. Als je het patroon zonder kabel wilt breien, brei je in plaats van het telpatroon tricotsteek, maar brei wel minder steken over het gedeelte van het patroon omdat je voor kabelwerk altijd meer steken in de breedte nodig hebt. Dus het gedeelte in het telpatroon waar de kabel zit de helft minder steken ongeveer.

04.12.2020 - 19:10

country flag Valborg Opsahl wrote:

Hei. Det står at flettingen skal begynne slik. Sitat: \"...dvs start 9-9-9-10-10-10 masker før dette merket og strikk første omgang slik: Strikk A.1...\"Sitat slutt. Jeg ville begynt ca. midt i, fletten, 8m. til venstre for 1. markør ( altså fra 1.m. i omgangen) og avsluttet med de første ni m. i slutten av omgangen. Blir det feil? Takk, mvh. Valborg.

18.11.2020 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Valborg. Anbefaler at man starter slik det står i oppskriften, da kan man følge oppskriften hele veien. Da vil man starte omgangen med diagram A.1. mvh DROPS design

30.11.2020 - 09:35