DROPS / 194 / 9

Aster Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Nepal or DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with texture, lace pattern and pockets. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ne-287
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 108-114-124-130-146-156 cm = 42 1/2"-45"-48 3/4"-51 1/4"-57 3/8"-61 1/4"
Full length: 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm = 26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-30"-30 3/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700-750-850-900-1000-1100 g color no 8907, fog
Or use:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 10, fog

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically with pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm = US 10, length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32”.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 5 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 together, 1 stitch in garter stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole on first row from right side after casting on stitches for neck and band (= when first row in A.2 is worked). Then decrease the 4-4-4-4-4-4 next buttonholes 26 rows apart, i.e. decrease for buttonhole every time a new lace repeat is started in A.2 (= 5-5-5-5-5-5 buttonholes).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth in several pieces and sewn together when finished. Worked top down on circular needle.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 with Nepal or Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 2 stitches remain on needle, work first stitch in A.1, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 4-4-4-4-5-5 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2”, adjust so that next row is worked from right side:
ROW 1: Work pattern as before over all stitches and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of row (= towards the neck) = 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches.
ROW 2: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until 1 stitch remains on needle, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
ROW 3: Work pattern as before over all stitches and cast on 15-15-15-17-17-17 new stitches for neck and band at the end of row = 41-43-45-47-49-51 stitches.
ROW 4: Purl the first 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches and pattern as before over the remaining stitches on needle.
Now work pattern as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches, A.2 (= 25 stitches), 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. Continue back and forth like this (on 21st row in A.2 decrease 1 stitch = 24 stitches in diagram). When piece measures 13-14-13-14-15-15 cm = 5 1/8”-5 1/2”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6”, cast on new stitches for armhole at the end of every row from wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-1-1-3-4 times and 4 stitches 1 time (6-6-8-8-12-14 stitches increased in total for armhole) = 46-48-52-54-60-64 stitches. Work the new stitches in pattern A.1. Continue back and forth like this until entire A.2 has been worked vertically. Then repeat the last 26 rows in A.2 (i.e. from row marked with arrow in diagram) 3 more times vertically. The remaining stitches on needle are worked in pattern as before. Then work texture (A.1) over all stitches and 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm = 26 3/4”-27 1/2”-28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4” from shoulder and down. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm with Nepal or Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches) until 2 stitches remain on needle, work first stitch in A.1, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 4-4-4-4-5-5 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2”, adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side.
ROW 1: Work pattern as before over all stitches and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of row (= towards the neck) = 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches.
ROW 2: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3: Work pattern as before over all stitches and cast on 15-15-15-17-17-17 new stitches for neck and band at the end of row = 41-43-45-47-49-51 stitches.
Now work pattern as follows: Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.3 (= 25 stitches), work pattern as before over the remaining stitches on needle. Continue back and forth like this (on 21st row in A.3 decrease 1 stitch = 24 stitches in diagram). When piece measures 13-14-13-14-15-15 cm = 5 1/8”-5 1/2”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6”, cast on new stitches for armhole at the end of every row from right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-1-1-3-4 times and 4 stitches 1 time (6-6-8-8-12-14 stitches increased in total for armhole) = 46-48-52-54-60-64 stitches. Work the new stitches in pattern A.1. Continue back and forth like this until entire A.3 has been worked vertically. Then repeat the last 26 rows in A.3 (i.e. from row marked with arrow in diagram) 3 more times vertically. The remaining stitches on needle are worked in pattern as before. Then work texture (A.1) over all stitches and 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm = 26 3/4”-27 1/2”-28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4” from shoulder and down. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

BACK PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Cast on 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 with Nepal or Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from right side:
ROW 1: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches) until 2 stitches remain on needle, work first stitch in A.1, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2: Work pattern as before and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of row (= towards the neck) = 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches.
ROW 3: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until 1 stitch remains on needle, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 4: Work pattern as before over all stitches.
Put piece aside and work the left shoulder.
Left shoulder:
Cast on 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 with Nepal or Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from right side:
ROW 1: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 2 stitches remain on needle, work first stitch in A.1, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2: Work pattern as before over all stitches.
ROW 3: Work pattern as before and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of row = 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches.
ROW 4: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Now work left and right shoulder together from right side as follows: Work as before over the 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches on left shoulder, cast on 21-21-21-25-25-25 new stitches on needle for neck, work as before over the 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches on right shoulder = 73-77-81-85-89-93 stitches on needle. Work 1 row from wrong side in pattern as before and with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side (purl over the new stitches cast on for neck). Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until 2 stitches remain on needle, work first stitch in A.1, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. When piece measures 13-14-13-14-15-15 cm, cast on new stitches for armholes at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-1-1-3-4 times and 3 stitches 1 time (5-5-7-7-11-13 stitches increased in total for armholes in each side of piece - NOTE: Cast on 1 stitch less for armholes in each side on back piece than on front piece to make the pattern fit in the side of body) = 83-87-95-99-111-119 stitches. Work the new stitches in pattern A.1. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm = 26 3/4”-27 1/2”-28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 3/4” from shoulder, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 19-23-25-27-27-27 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 with Nepal or Air. Work pattern A.1 until 1 stitch remains, work first stitch in A.1. Continue back and forth like this, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of each row cast on new stitches in each side for sleeve cap as follows: Cast on 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-2-2 times, 1 stitch 0-0-0-0-4-5 times, 2 stitches 2-2-2-2-2-2 times and 4 stitches 1 time = 47-51-53-55-59-61 stitches. Work the new stitches in pattern A.1. When all stitches have been cast on, insert a marker thread in piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with pattern A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 5-5-4-4-3-3 cm = 2”-2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” 7-8-8-9-10-10 times in total = 33-35-37-37-39-41 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 44-44-43-43-41-39 cm = 17 1/4”-17 1/4”-17”-17”-16 1/8”-15 1/4” from marker thread (shorter sleeves in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve the same way.

POCKETS:
Cast on 29 stitches on circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 with Nepal or Air. Work 1 ridge. Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 2 stitches remain on needle, work first stitch in A.1, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until pocket measures 12 cm = 4 3/4” from cast-on edge. Bind off. Knit another pocket the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-on edges. Sew sleeves in body inside cast-on edge on sleeves and inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body. Sew seam under sleeves and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat in the other side. Place the pocket along the side seam and 4 cm = 1 1/2” from bind-off edge at the bottom of front piece and sew it to front piece by sewing one and one stitch with small invisible stitches. Repeat on the other front piece. Sew the buttons on to left band.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 74-86 stitches from right side on a short circular needle size 6 mm = US 10. Work 2 ridges. Bind off by purling.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.11.2018
Correction: When working shoulders on back piece together you work left shoulder first, then right shoulder.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over to make a hole
= Knit 1, make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= knit 2 together
= this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Bonita Poirier 13.03.2019 - 16:25:

Since the sweater is worked top down, are the Charts A2 and A3 to be worked top down as well?

DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 08:23:

Hello Bonita. Although the jacket is worked top down, you read charts from right to left, bottom to top as usual. Happy knitting!

Oddveig Holstad 12.02.2019 - 19:04:

Ynskjer å få oppskrift på jakken tilsendt på mail adressa mi eg har kjøpt Nepal garn hjå dere å det kom i posten i dag. Oddveig

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 12:16:

Hej Oddveig, du finder opskriften her på siden, lige til at følge online eller skrive ud helt gratis. God fornøjelse!

Anne Marie Vanwaterloo 19.01.2019 - 16:50:

Comment fait on pour tricoter tous les modèles de bas en haut? Et non de haut en bas.Est ce que vous pouvez me donner les explications si je commande la laine.Merci beaucoup.

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 13:05:

Bonjour Mme Vanwaterloo, nous ne pouvons modifier les explications pour les ajuster à chaque demande, pour obtenir le résultat sur la photo, il vous faudra tricoter comme dans ce modèle, de bas en haut. Lisez attentivement les explications et n'hésitez pas à poser votre question ici si besoin, ou bien à contacter votre magasin DROPS pour toute assistance complémentaire. Bon tricot!

Bernadette Van Duijvenbode 18.12.2018 - 19:18:

Sorry, sorry sorry! Gelukkig heb ik een slimme buurvrouw die me er op wees , dat omdat het vest van boven naar beneden wordt gebreid, het patroon wel klopt. Nogmaals mijn excuses.

Bernadette Van Duijvenbode 18.12.2018 - 12:34:

Sorry, ik blijf erbij dat als ik een naald aan de goeie kant brei bij het rechter voorpand ik aan het eind van de naald toch echt aan de schouderkant uitkom en niet aan de halskant.

DROPS Design 20.12.2018 kl. 10:47:

Dag Bernadette,

Dankjewel voor je terugkoppeling hierboven in je opmerking, het patroon wordt inderdaad van boven naar beneden gebreid. Soms werkt het ook beter om gewoon te beginnen met breien, dan zie je vanzelf wat de bedoeling is. Veel breiplezier.

B A M Duijvenbode 17.12.2018 - 20:56:

Patroon is niet juist. Re voorpand nld 1: 1 steek aan het einde van de nld is niet de halskant. Ook bij naald 3 wordt dit verkeerd aangegeven: 15 steken opzetten voor de hals en de voorbies aan het einde van de naald. Graag correctie.

DROPS Design 17.12.2018 kl. 22:24:

Dag B A M Duijvenbode,

Je breit het rechter voorpand heen en weer tot het werk 4-4-4-4-5-5 cm meet, en je past dit zo aan dat de volgende naald aan de goede kant wordt gebreid. Hetzelfde doe je voor het linker voorpand, maar dan zorg je ervoor dat de volgende naald aan de verkeerde kant wordt gebreid.Op deze manier is bij zowel het linker- als rechter voorpand, de hals kant aan het eind van naald 1.

Maria 10.12.2018 - 07:15:

Ohjeessa takakappaleen kohdassa yhdistämisen jälkeen seuraavalla nurjalla puolella pääntien silmukat beulotaan nurin. Sitten on oikea puoli mallineuleen mukaan. Sitten tulee jatka tasoneuletta tähän tapaan. Tehdäänkö takakappaleessa siis koko ajan sileää pääntien kohdalla vai mallineuletta?

DROPS Design 20.12.2018 kl. 13:33:

Hei, myös pääntien silmukoilla neulotaan jokaisella kerroksella mallineuletta.

Bernadette Van Duijvenbode 22.11.2018 - 19:12:

Kan ik dit patroon ook breien met 2 draden alpaca? En zo ja, hoeveel heb ik dan nodig i.p.v. 750 gr Nepal?

DROPS Design 25.11.2018 kl. 16:30:

Dag Bernadette,

Om dit uit te rekenen kun je de garenvervanger gebruiken. Deze vind je hier en staat ook bij ieder patroon bovenaan bij de materialen. Vul het garen van het patroon in , de hoeveelheid die staat aangegeven bij het patroon en het aantal draden dat in het patroon gebruikt wordt. De garenvervanger geeft vervolgens een lijst van alternatieven op.

Inger Lise Mindrebøe 12.08.2018 - 19:24:

Håper oppskriften kommer en av dagene ;for den gleder jeg meg til å strikke :)

Zabeth 27.06.2018 - 21:22:

Très beau gilet qui semble moelleux. Le point ajouré qui longe la bande de boutonnières de chaque côté est élégant. Sans oublier les deux poches, très pratiques pour y loger ses mains lorsqu'il fait froid ou tout simplement y mettre un mouchoir. J'aime bien aussi l'encolure arrondie.

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