DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lady Angelika

Knitted jumper with lace pattern in DROPS Flora. Sizes S - XXXL. Knitted hat with lace pattern in DROPS Flora.

DROPS 197-24
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-035
Yarn group A
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YARN FOR WHOLE SET:
Sizes: S - M - L - L/XL - XXL - XXL/XXXL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 54/56 - 56/58 - 56/58 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 20, peach pink

YARN FOR JUMPER:
Sizes: S - M - L - L/XL - XXL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 20, peach pink

YARN FOR HAT:
Sizes: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 20, peach pink

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JUMPER:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 38 rows in height with lace pattern on body and bottom of sleeves = 10 x 10 cm.
1 repeat measures: A.1 - 6 cm in width, A.2 - 5 cm in width, A.4 - 4 cm in width.
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch on sleeves = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for lace pattern and stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm for garter stitch neck.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 38 rows in height with lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
1 repeat measures: A.8 - 5 cm in width, A.3 - 5 cm in width.
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm for lace pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 40 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.5 and A.6).
Hat: See diagrams A.3, A.8 and A.9.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 1 stitch before the stitch with the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 3 (the marker thread sits in the middle stitch of these 3 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 124 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 16) = 7.75.
In this example, decrease by knitting each 7th and 8th stitch together (approx.).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for top of hat):
Decrease as follows before the garter stitch: Start 2 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after the garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 280-308-336-364-420-448 slightly loose stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Flora. Work 3 RIDGES in the round – read description above. Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch. Then work A.1 in the round (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 14 stitches). When A.1 has been completed there are 240-264-288-312-360-384 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 7 cm from the cast-on edge at the longest point.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Then work A.2 (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.3 has been completed there are 200-220-240-260-300-320 stitches on the needle. Then work A.4 (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 10 stitches). When A.4 has been worked a total of 3 times in height, insert 2 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): The first marker thread is inserted in the first stitch on the round, then count 99-109-119-129-149-159 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch. There are 99-109-119-129-149-159 stitches left on the round after the second marker thread. The threads mark the sides of the body.
READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!
PATTERN:
The next round is worked as follows: Work 5-10-15-15-25-30 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread in first of these stitches), work A.5A (= 5 stitches), A.5B over the next 80-80-80-90-90-90 stitches (= 8-8-8-9-9-9 repeats of 10 stitches), A.5C (= 6 stitches), work 9-19-29-29-49-59 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread in the middle stitch of these stitches), work A.5A (= 5 stitches), A.5B over the next 80-80-80-90-90-90 stitches (= 8-8-8-9-9-9 repeats of 10 stitches), A.5C (= 6 stitches) and finish with 4-9-14-14-24-29 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue this pattern, but when A.5 has been worked 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in height work A.6 over A.5 in the same way. When A.X in A.6 has been worked 1 time in height work A.Y to finished length.
ARMHOLE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 38-38-39-40-41-42 cm cast off for armholes in each side as described below. The marker threads have been inserted in the piece and you should have started A.5 as described above, but adjust so that the next round is an odd round in the diagrams, i.e. a round of lace pattern. This is important so that the rows of pattern are worked from the right side when you start working back and forth.
The cast-off round is worked as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-6-8 stitches for armhole, work the next 95-105-113-123-139-145 stitches as before, cast off 5-5-7-7-11-15 stitches for armhole, work the next 95-105-113-123-139-145 stitches as before and cast off the remaining 2-2-3-3-5-7 stitches for armhole. Front and back pieces are finished separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 95-105-113-123-139-145 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth as before (the first row is from the wrong side and each row from the wrong side is purled).
AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-2-3 times, 2 stitches 0-2-3-3-4-4 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-4-4-4-4 times in each side = 93-93-93-103-103-103 stitches left. Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in each side (knit edge stitch from right and wrong side).
When the piece measures approx. 48-50-52-53-55-57 cm (A.X in A.6 should now be finished and A.Y should have started) place the middle 19-19-19-23-23-23 stitches on 1 thread for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue casting off for neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 3 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 28-28-28-31-31-31 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

BACK PIECE:
= 95-105-113-123-139-145 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth as before (the first row is from the wrong side and each row from the wrong side is purled).
AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-2-3 times, 2 stitches 0-2-3-3-4-4 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-4-4-4-4 times in each side = 93-93-93-103-103-103 stitches left. Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in each side (knit edge stitch from right and wrong side). Remember that when A.X in A.6 has been worked 1 time in height, you continue with A.Y to finished length.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm cast off the middle 33-33-33-37-37-37 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 28-28-28-31-31-31 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 60-60-60-72-72-72 slightly loose stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and Flora. Work 3 ridges in the round. Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch. Then work A.7 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.7 has been completed work A.3 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue this pattern, but when there are 6 rounds left in A.3 work stocking stitch over the one purled stitch in the pattern until A.3 is finished. When A.3 has been completed, there are 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches on the needles. Insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch on the round and allow it to follow your work onwards. The marker thread will be used when you increase mid under sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 14-14-13-13-13-13 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this a total of 11-17-19-17-21-23 times in Size S: Every 10th round, in M and L/XL: Every 6th round, in L: Alternately every 5th and 6th round, in XXL: Alternately every 4th and 5th round and in XXL/XXXL: Every 4th round = 72-84-88-94-102-106 stitches. Continue until the sleeve measures 50-50-49-48-46-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap). The next round is worked as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-6-8 stitches, work 67-79-81-87-91-91 stitches in stocking stitch and cast off the remaining 2-2-3-3-5-7 stitches. Cut the strand. Then finish the sleeve cap back and forth with circular needle size 3.5 mm as follows: Work stocking stitch and cast off at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-2-4-4-7-10 times in each side, then cast off 2 stitches in each side until the piece measures 55-56-57-56-57-58 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time in each side and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 56-57-58-57-58-59 cm from top down.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew in the sleeves inside the 1 edge stitch in each side.

NECK: Knit up approx. 90 to 106 stitches from the right side around the neck with short circular needle size 3 mm and Flora. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Cast off with knit.

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 124-136-136 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm and Flora. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Change to short circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 2 rounds where you decrease 16 stitches evenly on first round – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 108-120-120 stitches. Work A.8 in the round (= 9-10-10 repeats of 12 stitches). Work A.8 1 time in height. Cut the yarn. Slip 6 stitches over the right needle without working them. The round starts now here. Work A.3 in the round (= 9-10-10 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.3 has been completed there are 90-100-100 stitches on the needle. Then work A.9 in the round (= 9-10-10 repeats of 10 stitches). A.9 is repeated to finished length. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 17-19-21 cm insert 1 marker thread in each garter stitch (= 9-10-10 marker threads in the piece). On the next round decrease 1 stitch before each garter stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 81-90-90 stitches. Work 1 round without decreasing. On the next round decrease 1 stitch after each garter stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 72-80-80 stitches. Continue to decrease like this, alternately before and after the garter stitch, every 2nd round until you have decreased a total of 8 times by each marker thread (4 times before and 4 times after each marker thread) = 18-20-20 stitches left. Work 1 round where all stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 9-10-10 stitches left. Knit 1 round without decreasing. On the next round knit all stitches together again 2 and 2 = 5 stitches left in all sizes. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 23-25-27 cm from the top down.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 25.10.2018
Correction: BACK PIECE: Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.
Updated online: 02.04.2019
Diagrams A.1 and A.7 have been corrected
Updated online: 25.03.2022
HAT: ...Work A.8 1 time in height. Cut the yarn. Slip 6 stitches over the right needle without working them. The round starts now here. Work A.3 in the round ...

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches - NOTE: On round marked with an arrow in A.1 and A.7, the beginning of round is displaced 1 stitch to the right as follows: Don’t work the last stitch on previous round (ie: round before the one marked with arrow), this is now the first stitch on round marked with arrow. Work the round. On next round knit all stitches, but last stitch is not worked when next round starts with this symbol.
On row marked with an arrow in A.2, A.3 and A.4 the round start is displaced by 2 stitches to the left, i.e. slip the first 2 stitches onto the right needle without working them, then work the repeat in the round. The 2 slipped stitches are worked in the last repeat. On the next round all stitches are knitted and on the round after that the round start is moved back to where it was before
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diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Kristel Rõõm wrote:

Kuidas kududa varrukate kahandusi: kas vahele kududa ka ilma kahanduseta ridu? Kuidagi ei saa aru.

11.02.2024 - 19:16

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Kristel! Varrukakaare tegemiseks koo maha iga rea alguses näiteks suurusel L (kolmas number reas): 3 silmust 1 kord mõlemal küljel (st kood 3 silmust maha, kood rea lõpuni, pöörad tööd, kood 3 silmust maha ja kood rea lõpuni), siis 2 silmust 3 korda mõlemal küljel, siis 1 silmus 4 korda mõlemal küljel, siis 2 silmust mõlemal küljel, kuni töö pikkus on 57 cm. Teistel suurustel vaata vastavat numbrit reas. Head kudumist!

14.02.2024 - 21:41

country flag Uschi wrote:

Guten Tag, leider klappt die untere Kante auf. Haben sie einen Tipp, wie ich das vermeiden kann? Liebe Grüße

28.12.2023 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Uschi, Sie können den Pullover mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen.

02.01.2024 - 09:48

country flag Jane wrote:

Hej! Jag är förvirrad. Under rubriken " TRÖJA – KORT ÖVERSIKT ÖVER ARBETET:" så står det att man ska använda rund sticka upp tillärmhålen och sedan "rundsticka där man stickar fram och tillbaka". Fattar inte detta. Ska det vara strumpsticka istället. Det ska ju vara hål i sidorna för ärmarna!!!??? Är det jag som tänker fel?

09.12.2022 - 06:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jane. Først stikker du rundt fra oppleggskanten og opp til ermhullene. Da bruker du rundpinne. Når du skal strikke forstykket og bakstykket hver for seg, strikkes det også på rundpinne, men det strikkes frem og tilbake, 1 pinne fra retten og 1 pinne fra vrangen. Så mens du strikker forstykket frem og tilbake "hviler" maskene til bakstykket på samme rundpinne, og omvendt. Ønsker du å strikke delene hver for seg på parpinner kan du fint gjøre det. mvh DROPS Design

12.12.2022 - 11:59

country flag Nel wrote:

I ben nu bij het punt waarop ik verder moet gaan met 5.A,B en C. Maar ik begrijp het niet. Als ik dat volg, klopt het doorlopende patroon volgens mij niet meer. De averechtse steek komt dan boven de averechtse steek in patroon 4, en tot nu toe was het steeds zo dat de averechtse steek in het volgende telpatroon (of de herhaling vand e vorige, boven het hiervoor gesloten vierkantje kwam. Qua steken klopt het wel, maar qua patroonverloop volgens mij niet.

01.11.2022 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nel,

Om het beter te kunnen bekijken eerst even een vraag: welke maat ben je aan het breien? (En heb je de juiste telpatronen voor de juiste maat bij elkaar gezocht? Even voor de zekerheid checken :)

02.11.2022 - 14:53

country flag Malin Wester Fröst wrote:

Jag kan inte se diagram/mönster A1 och A2 i beskrivningen längre.

16.05.2022 - 10:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Malin. I begynnelsen av FRAM- OCH BAKSTYCKE, står det at du skal strikke A.1 og når du er ferdig med A.1 står det at du skal strikke A.2. Begge diagrammene finner du sammen med alle de andre diagrammene under oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

16.05.2022 - 10:35

country flag Anne Katrine Vilhelm wrote:

Hej med jer Jeg er kommet til ærmerne, og skal i str. S tage tre masker ind til ærmegab. Jeg kan ikke finde ud af hvor præcist jeg starter lukningen. Er det efter afmærkningen, eller skal jeg strikke to masker først jævnfør strik de resterende 95 masker. Mvh Katrine

27.02.2022 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne Katrine, du lukker de første 3 masker af efter mærket, strikker 95 masker, lukker 5 masker af i den anden side, strikker 95 masker og lukker de sidste 2 masker af. Nu strikkes forstykket færdigt for sig. God fornøjelse!

02.03.2022 - 11:51

country flag Sandra wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de tricoter le bonnet. J'ai terminé A8, et au milieu on nous demande de faire une maille envers. Je continue avec A3, et je remarque maintenant que la maille envers se situe au tout début. Si je compare les photos des bonnets terminés, et le bonnet sur la photo officiel, les motifs ne sont pas placés au même endroit. Je pense que c'est dû au décalage de cette maille envers entre A8 et A3. Est ce que c'est possible ? Merci, bonne soirée !

12.02.2022 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sandra, désolée pour la réponse tardive, une correction a été faite pour les diagrammes du bonnet, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

19.04.2022 - 07:14

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buongiorno, Nel primo ferro in cui si intrecciano le maglie per eseguire gli scalfi, si intreccia il primo scalfo a metà. Poi si lavora tutto il davanti, l'altro scalfo per intero e il dietro, fino a giungere alla fine del ferro. La seconda metà del primo scalfo va intrecciata a rovescio nel ferro successivo quando lavoro separatamente davanti e dietro? Grazie

04.02.2022 - 13:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Benedetta, può procedere in questo modo. Buon lavoro!

05.02.2022 - 20:55

country flag Stefania wrote:

Salve sto lavorando il berretto e sono bloccata al penultimo giro del diagr. A3 dove c\'è la freccia Vorrei sapere se dopo aver passato sul f.dx le prime 2 maglie senza lavorarle , lavorato fino alla decima devo fare il gettato e ricominciare la ripetizione oppure proseguire sul motivo che sta fuori le 10 maglie ? e poi ricominciare il motivo. Grazie e spero di essere stata comprensibile

07.08.2021 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Stefania, deve continuare con la ripetizione del motivo. Buon lavoro!

09.08.2021 - 21:30

country flag Hanna Mourino wrote:

Hej! Kan det verkligen stämma 😯 att mössan endast kräver 50 gram garn?!!

10.02.2021 - 07:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanna. Det ska vara tillräckligt. Jag ser att andra mössor i samma garn har samma garnåtgång, och vi har inte heller fått kommentarer om att det inte räcker från andra som gjort den. Mvh DROPS Design

11.02.2021 - 09:47