DROPS / 197 / 24

Lady Angelika by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with lace pattern in DROPS Flora. Sizes S - XXXL. Knitted hat with lace pattern in DROPS Flora.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-035
Yarn group A
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YARN FOR WHOLE SET:
Sizes: S - M - L - L/XL - XXL - XXL/XXXL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 54/56 - 56/58 - 56/58 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 20, peach pink

YARN FOR JUMPER:
Sizes: S - M - L - L/XL - XXL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 20, peach pink

YARN FOR HAT:
Sizes: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 20, peach pink

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JUMPER:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 38 rows in height with lace pattern on body and bottom of sleeves = 10 x 10 cm.
1 repeat measures: A.1 - 6 cm in width, A.2 - 5 cm in width, A.4 - 4 cm in width.
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch on sleeves = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for lace pattern and stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm for garter stitch neck.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 38 rows in height with lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
1 repeat measures: A.8 - 5 cm in width, A.3 - 5 cm in width.
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm for lace pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 40 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.85£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.5 and A.6).
Hat: See diagrams A.3, A.8 and A.9.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 1 stitch before the stitch with the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 3 (the marker thread sits in the middle stitch of these 3 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 124 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 16) = 7.75.
In this example, decrease by knitting each 7th and 8th stitch together (approx.).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for top of hat):
Decrease as follows before the garter stitch: Start 2 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after the garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 280-308-336-364-420-448 slightly loose stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Flora. Work 3 RIDGES in the round – read description above. Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch. Then work A.1 in the round (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 14 stitches). When A.1 has been completed there are 240-264-288-312-360-384 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 7 cm from the cast-on edge at the longest point.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Then work A.2 (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.3 has been completed there are 200-220-240-260-300-320 stitches on the needle. Then work A.4 (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 10 stitches). When A.4 has been worked a total of 3 times in height, insert 2 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): The first marker thread is inserted in the first stitch on the round, then count 99-109-119-129-149-159 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch. There are 99-109-119-129-149-159 stitches left on the round after the second marker thread. The threads mark the sides of the body.
READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!
PATTERN:
The next round is worked as follows: Work 5-10-15-15-25-30 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread in first of these stitches), work A.5A (= 5 stitches), A.5B over the next 80-80-80-90-90-90 stitches (= 8-8-8-9-9-9 repeats of 10 stitches), A.5C (= 6 stitches), work 9-19-29-29-49-59 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread in the middle stitch of these stitches), work A.5A (= 5 stitches), A.5B over the next 80-80-80-90-90-90 stitches (= 8-8-8-9-9-9 repeats of 10 stitches), A.5C (= 6 stitches) and finish with 4-9-14-14-24-29 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue this pattern, but when A.5 has been worked 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in height work A.6 over A.5 in the same way. When A.X in A.6 has been worked 1 time in height work A.Y to finished length.
ARMHOLE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 38-38-39-40-41-42 cm cast off for armholes in each side as described below. The marker threads have been inserted in the piece and you should have started A.5 as described above, but adjust so that the next round is an odd round in the diagrams, i.e. a round of lace pattern. This is important so that the rows of pattern are worked from the right side when you start working back and forth.
The cast-off round is worked as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-6-8 stitches for armhole, work the next 95-105-113-123-139-145 stitches as before, cast off 5-5-7-7-11-15 stitches for armhole, work the next 95-105-113-123-139-145 stitches as before and cast off the remaining 2-2-3-3-5-7 stitches for armhole. Front and back pieces are finished separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 95-105-113-123-139-145 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth as before (the first row is from the wrong side and each row from the wrong side is purled).
AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-2-3 times, 2 stitches 0-2-3-3-4-4 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-4-4-4-4 times in each side = 93-93-93-103-103-103 stitches left. Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in each side (knit edge stitch from right and wrong side).
When the piece measures approx. 48-50-52-53-55-57 cm (A.X in A.6 should now be finished and A.Y should have started) place the middle 19-19-19-23-23-23 stitches on 1 thread for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue casting off for neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 3 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 28-28-28-31-31-31 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

BACK PIECE:
= 95-105-113-123-139-145 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth as before (the first row is from the wrong side and each row from the wrong side is purled).
AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-2-3 times, 2 stitches 0-2-3-3-4-4 times and then 1 stitch 1-2-4-4-4-4 times in each side = 93-93-93-103-103-103 stitches left. Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in each side (knit edge stitch from right and wrong side). Remember that when A.X in A.6 has been worked 1 time in height, you continue with A.Y to finished length.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm cast off the middle 33-33-33-37-37-37 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 28-28-28-31-31-31 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 60-60-60-72-72-72 slightly loose stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and Flora. Work 3 ridges in the round. Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch. Then work A.7 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.7 has been completed work A.3 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue this pattern, but when there are 6 rounds left in A.3 work stocking stitch over the one purled stitch in the pattern until A.3 is finished. When A.3 has been completed, there are 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches on the needles. Insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch on the round and allow it to follow your work onwards. The marker thread will be used when you increase mid under sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 14-14-13-13-13-13 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this a total of 11-17-19-17-21-23 times in Size S: Every 10th round, in M and L/XL: Every 6th round, in L: Alternately every 5th and 6th round, in XXL: Alternately every 4th and 5th round and in XXL/XXXL: Every 4th round = 72-84-88-94-102-106 stitches. Continue until the sleeve measures 50-50-49-48-46-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap). The next round is worked as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-6-8 stitches, work 67-79-81-87-91-91 stitches in stocking stitch and cast off the remaining 2-2-3-3-5-7 stitches. Cut the strand. Then finish the sleeve cap back and forth with circular needle size 3.5 mm as follows: Work stocking stitch and cast off at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-2-4-4-7-10 times in each side, then cast off 2 stitches in each side until the piece measures 55-56-57-56-57-58 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time in each side and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 56-57-58-57-58-59 cm from top down.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew in the sleeves inside the 1 edge stitch in each side.

NECK: Knit up approx. 90 to 106 stitches from the right side around the neck with short circular needle size 3 mm and Flora. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Cast off with knit.

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 124-136-136 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm and Flora. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Change to short circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 2 rounds where you decrease 16 stitches evenly on first round – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 108-120-120 stitches. Work A.8 in the round (= 9-10-10 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.8 has been completed work A.3 in the round (= 9-10-10 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.3 has been completed there are 90-100-100 stitches on the needle. Then work A.9 in the round (= 9-10-10 repeats of 10 stitches). A.9 is repeated to finished length. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 17-19-21 cm insert 1 marker thread in each garter stitch (= 9-10-10 marker threads in the piece). On the next round decrease 1 stitch before each garter stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 81-90-90 stitches. Work 1 round without decreasing. On the next round decrease 1 stitch after each garter stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 72-80-80 stitches. Continue to decrease like this, alternately before and after the garter stitch, every 2nd round until you have decreased a total of 8 times by each marker thread (4 times before and 4 times after each marker thread) = 18-20-20 stitches left. Work 1 round where all stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 9-10-10 stitches left. Knit 1 round without decreasing. On the next round knit all stitches together again 2 and 2 = 5 stitches left in all sizes. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 23-25-27 cm from the top down.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.10.2018
Correction: BACK PIECE: Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.
Updated online: 02.04.2019
Diagrams A.1 and A.7 have been corrected

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches - NOTE: On round marked with an arrow in A.1 and A.7, the beginning of round is displaced 1 stitch to the right as follows: Don’t work the last stitch on previous round (ie: round before the one marked with arrow), this is now the first stitch on round marked with arrow. Work the round. On next round knit all stitches, but last stitch is not worked when next round starts with this symbol. On row marked with an arrow in A.2, A.3 and A.4 the round start is displaced by 2 stitches to the left, i.e. slip the first 2 stitches onto the right needle without working them, then work the repeat in the round. The 2 slipped stitches are worked in the last repeat. On the next round all stitches are knitted and on the round after that the round start is moved back to where it was before





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Agnes 29.08.2019 - 16:02:

I diagrammen över mönstret måste det vara fel, jag har jämfört med andra språk. Symbolen "-" är beskriven som avig maska på avig sida, men det borde bara avig maska på rät sida.

DROPS Design 30.08.2019 kl. 10:35:

Hej. Tack för info, det hade blivit fel i den svenska översättningen. Detta är nu rättat. Mvh DROPS Design

Elaine Hébert 20.08.2019 - 16:47:

J’ai terminé le col et je l’ai rabattu souplement. Tout est beau sauf au niveau du dos ou j’ai rabattu les mailles centrales du dos. Le col roule vers l’extérieur du chandail. Est-ce que j’aurais du les mettre en attente comme pour le devant ou j’ai trop relevé de mailles à ce niveau ? Merci de m’aider

DROPS Design 21.08.2019 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Mme Hébert, la première idée qui me vient est que vous avez peut-être rabattu ces mailles là trop souplement, mais il vaudrait mieux montrer votre ouvrage, même en photo, à votre magasin DROPS, il pourra plus facilement vous conseiller. Bon tricot!

Elaine Hébert 18.05.2019 - 15:08:

Comment mesurer le tour de tête pour pouvoir choisir la bonne grandeur du bonnet ?

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 10:21:

Bonjour Mme Hébert, mesurez le tour de tête au niveau du front (en gardant le mètre ruban bien droit). Le bonnet sera légèrement plus court en circonférence pour bien s'adapter à la tête et à la taille indiquée. Bon tricot!

Petra 18.03.2019 - 18:51:

Im Diagramm ist das Maß von 56 cm bis zum Beginn der Armausschnitte angegeben. In der Anleitung Seite 3 steht Armausschnitte: GLEICHZEITIG bei einer Länge von 38 cm für die Armauschnitte ... Wie ist das zu verstehen? Wann wird mit den Armausschnitte begonnen? Ich hoffe auf eine Antwort. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Petra

DROPS Design 19.03.2019 kl. 10:17:

Liebe Petra, die Maschen für die Armausschnitte werden bei 38 cm abgekettet, dann stricken Sie jedes Teil separat bis 56 cm (= 18 cm Armausschnitt), so haben Sie: 38 cm + 18 cm = 56 cm gesamte Höhe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

ChrisPJ 18.03.2019 - 09:40:

Hallo, Ihr solltet erwähnen, dass sich der Rapport ändert beim Wechsel von A1 auf A2 (genauso wie beim Wechsel von A7 auf A3). Die Linie mit den linken Maschen muss fortgesetzt werden, also muss A2 in der Mitte von A1 anfangen. Habe ich leider zu spät gemerkt, sieht aber auch gut aus, wenn man den Rapport nicht ändert, dann wird es eher ein Blattmuster am Übergang :-) Grüße, Christine

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 11:42:

Liebe ChrisPJ, danke für den Hinweis, unser Designteam wird das mal schauen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Cajsa 06.12.2018 - 11:08:

På mitt mönster finns det inget.

DROPS Design 06.12.2018 kl. 11:35:

Hei Cajsa. Ser du de andre diagrammene? gjelder dette uansett hvaslags enhet du bruker? (mobil, nettbrett, pc). Vi har dobbelsjekket dette hos oss, og alle diagrammene skal være synlige. Du kan eventuelt prøve å se på den norske eller danske oppskriften og se om du ser det der. God fornøyelse

Cajsa 06.12.2018 - 10:00:

Var är mönster A4??? Hittar inget sånt...

DROPS Design 06.12.2018 kl. 11:04:

Hei Cajsa. A.4 ligger sammen med de andre diagrammene enderst på siden: Det ligger under A.6, til venstre for A.3 og over A.12. God fornøyesle

Doris 26.10.2018 - 07:41:

In der Beschreibung ist bei "Rumpfteil" von "A.X" und "A.Y" die Rede, das verstehe ich nicht. Was ist damit gemeint?

DROPS Design 26.10.2018 kl. 09:07:

Liebe Doris, A.X in A.6 = die ersten Reihen, an der rechten Seite mit "A.X" markiert sind. A.Y sind dann die 4 letzten Reihen in A.6 = die sind an der rechten Seite von den Diagrammen mit "A.Y" markiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Doenja 17.10.2018 - 16:39:

Graag een juiste vertaling. Er staat erg veel Engels tussendoor wat het erg verwarrend maakt !!

Madelon 17.10.2018 - 13:43:

Ik heb een vraag: ik merk dat ik jullie modellen vaak te kort vind. Ik hou er van als truien over mijn billen vallen. Hoe kan ik nu bijvoorbeeld bij dit patroon eenvoudig de trui langer maken zonder dat dit de rest van het patroon beïnvloedt? Welke tip hebben jullie hiervoor? Ik hoor het graag!

DROPS Design 28.10.2018 kl. 17:54:

Dag Madelon,

Bij deze trui zou je wat extra herhalingen van A.5 kunnen maken om het lijf langer te maken.

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