DROPS / 197 / 38

Lady Angelika Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Nord. The piece is worked with lace pattern and shawl collar. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no no-018
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - L/XL - XXL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 13, old pink

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 38 rows in height with lace pattern on body and bottom of sleeves = 10 x 10 cm.
1 repeat measures approx.: A.1 - 6 cm in width, A.2 - 5 cm in width, A.4 - 4 cm in width.
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch on yoke and sleeves = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for lace pattern and stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 40 cm for garter stitch on neck.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 5-5-5-5-6-6 items.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 1.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for neck on front pieces):
Decrease for neck on the inside of the 5 band stitches in garter stitch + the increased stitches for collar. All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease like this after the garter stitch on the band/collar: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease like this before the garter stitch on the band/collar: Start 2 stitches before the garter stitch on the band/collar and knit 2 together.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the stitch with marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 3 (marker thread sits in the middle stitch of these 3), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = Start from the right side and knit together the second and third stitch from the edge and then make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 5, 12, 19, 26 and 33 cm
M: 6, 13, 20, 27 and 34 cm
L: 7, 14, 21, 28 and 35 cm
L/XL: 8, 15, 22, 29 and 36 cm
XXL: 7, 13, 19, 25, 31 and 37 cm
XXL/XXXL: 8, 14, 20, 26, 32 and 38 cm

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth on circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles / short circular needle, bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on a little loosely 291-319-347-375-431-459 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Nord. Work 3 RIDGES – read description above. Work 2 rows stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 20-22-24-26-30-32 repeats of 14 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and work BUTTONHOLE on right band – read description above.
When A.1 has been completed there are 251-275-299-323-371-395 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 7 cm from the cast-on edge, measured on the longest part.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2A (= 6 stitches), A.2B until there are 12 stitches left on the row (= 19-21-23-25-29-31 repeats of 12 stitches), A.2C (= 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When A.2 has been completed, work A.3A, A.3B and A.3C in the same way. When A.3 has been completed there are 211-231-251-271-311-331 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.4A (= 5 stitches), A.4B until there are 11 stitches left on the row (= 19-21-23-25-29-31 repeats of 10 stitches), A.4C (= 6 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When A.4 has been completed, work A.5A, A.5B and A.5C in the same way. When A.X in A.5 has been worked 1 time in height the piece measures approx. 32 cm in all sizes.
Insert 1 marker thread in the 56th-61st-66th-71st-81st-86th stitch in from each side (= 99-109-119-129-149-159 stitches between the stitches with marker threads on the back piece). Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used a little later when casting off for the armholes.
Then work A.Y in A.5 to finished length. AT THE SAME TIME increase for collar and decrease for neck and armholes as described below – remember the last buttonhole on right band. Read COLLAR, NECK and ARMHOLES before continuing!

COLLAR:
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, starting from the right side, work 1 ridge back and forth over the 5 band stitches on the right band (the other stitches are not worked), then work 1 row from the right side as before over all stitches, turn and work 1 ridge back and forth over the 5 band stitches on the left band (without working the other stitches), then work 1 row from the wrong side as before over all stitches.
Continue with pattern as before, back and forth, but now start to increase for the collar. Increase 1 stitch for the collar by making 1 yarn over inside the 2 outermost stitches in each side. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 3 times and then every 4th row a total of 12-12-13-13-14-15 times (= 15-15-16-16-17-18 stitches increased for the collar on each side and a total of 20-20-21-21-22-23 garter stitches on each side including the band).

NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm decrease 1 stitch for the neck on the inside of the 5 band stitches in garter stitch + the increased stitches for collar on each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 3 times, every 4th row a total of 7 times and then every 6th row a total of 3-3-4-4-5-6 times (= 13-13-14-14-15-16 stitches decreased for neck in each side).

ARMHOLES:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm cast off for the armholes in each side as follows: Work from the right side as before until there are 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches left before the stitch with the marker thread, cast off 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches for the armhole, work as before until there are 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches left before the second stitch with marker thread, cast off 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches for armhole and work to end of row as before. Front and back pieces are finished separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue back and forth with garter stitch over collar/bands and A.Y over the other stitches (continue to increase for collar and decrease for neck as before). AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-3-4-4-7-7 times. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from the cast-on edge at the longest part. Knit 1 row from the wrong side over all stitches. On the next row cast off the first 31-32-33-34-35-36 stitches for shoulder = 20-20-21-21-22-23 garter stitches left on needle for collar, knit to end of row. Finish collar as described below.

COLLAR LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Start from the wrong side and work garter stitch back and forth as follows: * 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches, 1 ridge back and forth over the first 15-15-16-16-17-18 stitches *, work from *-* until the collar measures approx. 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm along the shortest side (collar measures approx. 14-14-16-16-16-16 cm outermost along the longest side). Cast off with knit from the right side.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue back and forth with garter stitch over collar/band and A.Y over the other stitches (increases to collar and decreases for neck continue as before). AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-3-4-4-7-7 times. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from the cast-on edge on the longest part. Knit 1 row from the wrong side over all stitches. On the next row knit the first 20-20-21-21-22-23 stitches (= collar), and cast off the remaining 31-32-33-34-35-36 stitches for shoulder. Cut the strand and finish collar as described below.

COLLAR RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Start from the wrong side and knit over all stitches, * turn the piece and work 1 ridge back and forth over the first 15-15-16-16-17-18 stitches, 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches *, work from *-* until the collar measures approx. 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm along the shortest side and cast off with knit from the right side.

BACK PIECE:
= 93-103-113-121-141-151 stitches. Continue A.Y back and forth as before and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-3-4-4-7-7 times = 87-89-93-95-99-103 stitches on needle.
When the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm cast off the middle 21-21-23-23-25-27 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 31-32-33-34-35-36 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from the cast-on edge on the longest part. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the cast-off edge and down measured on the longest part.

SLEEVE:
Cast on a little loosely 60-60-60-72-72-72 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and Nord. Work 3 RIDGES in the round – read description above. Work 2 rounds stocking stitch. Then work A.6 in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.6 has been completed, work A.3B in the round (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue this pattern, but when there are 6 rounds left in A.3 work stocking stitch over the one purled stitch in the pattern until A.3 has been completed. When A.3 is finished, there are 50-50-50-60-60-60 stitches on the needles and the piece measures approx. 12 cm from the cast-on edge on the longest part. Insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch on the round. Allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when you increase mid under sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 14-14-14-14-13-13 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this a total of 14-17-19-17-21-23 times - in S: Every 8th round, in M and L/XL: Every 6th round, in L: Alternately every 5th and 6th round, in XXL: Alternately every 4th and 5th round and in XXL/XXXL: Every 4th round = 78-84-88-94-102-106 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 50-50-50-49-47-46 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap). The next round is worked as follows: Cast off 4-4-4-5-5-5 stitches, work 71-77-81-85-93-97 stitches in stocking stitch and cast off the remaining 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches. Cut the strand. Then work the sleeve cap back and forth with circular needle size 3.5 mm as follows: Work stocking stitch and cast off at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-4 times and 1 stitch 1-2-4-4-7-10 times on each side, then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the piece measures 55-56-57-57-58-58 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 56-57-58-58-59-59 cm from the top down.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew collar together mid back (make sure the seam is on the wrong side when the collar is folded down). Sew collar to neck at the back. Sew in sleeves inside the 1 edge stitch on each side. Sew buttons on to left band.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Leena Raukola 10.10.2019 - 10:06:

Jag vill gärna ha beskrivningen och garnet ( gammelrosa som bilden visa

DROPS Design 10.10.2019 kl. 14:15:

Hej Leena, det är bara att klicka på korgen (till höger för bilderna) här i mönstret, så beställer du det hos en DROPS butik.

Inge Umans 08.10.2019 - 18:36:

Kunnen de mouwen met de rondbreipen van 40cm worden gebreid? Mvg, Inge

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 20:15:

Dag Inge,

Jazeker, dat kan. Misschien is het nodig (afhankelijk ook van de maat) dat je op een gedeelte waar er minder steken op de toer staan, even een lusje van de draad van de rondbreinaald een beetje uit het werk trekt.

Valena 23.03.2019 - 06:47:

Error mío, por favor borren el comentario. Perdonen las molestias.

Valena 22.03.2019 - 20:59:

Buenas tardes, He empezado a hacer la chaqueta 197-38. Al hacer la prueba del A1.1A me he dado cuenta que el patrón o tiene un error o no está bien explicado. Según el diagrama en cada vuelta en la que se hace el dibujo se ponen 2 hebras y se disminuye 1 punto, así la primera vuelta tiene 14 puntos , la siguiente 15, al final no habrá 12 puntos sino 20. Por favor mírenlo. Como dibujo es genial. Por lo que he hecho tampoco me salen los picos que se ven en la foto. Gracias

Kerstin 13.02.2019 - 22:37:

Ist es richtig, dass die Jacke von oben nach unten gestrickt wird? Ich lese die Anleitung so, dass von unten nach oben beschrieben ist.

DROPS Design 14.02.2019 kl. 11:53:

Liebe Kerstin, die Jacke wird hier von unten nach oben gestrickt, die deutsche Anleitung wird angepasst, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Carol McMillan 15.01.2019 - 16:37:

I don’t understand a term highlighted in red “A.Y” used in the Lady Angelika Jacket pattern. It is used 4 times As the last paragraph in the Body - Then work A.Y in A.5 to finished length. AT THE SAME TIME increase for collar and decrease for neck and armholes as described below – remember the last buttonhole on right band.

DROPS Design 15.01.2019 kl. 16:55:

Dear Mrs McMillan, A.Y refers to the last 4 rows in A.5A, A.5B, A.5C, ie you now work following these 4 rows. Happy knitting!

Céline Cest 05.01.2019 - 18:21:

Bonjour , je ne comprend pas la partie entre guillemet : Augmenter ainsi 3 fois au total tous les 2 rangs et 12 fois tous les 4 rangs (= on augmente 15 mailles pour le col de chaque côté et "20 mailles point mousse au total de chaque côté, y compris la bordure devant"). D'où viennent ces 20 mailles en point mousse??? merci de votre aide et bonne année 2019

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 10:39:

Bonjour Mme Cest et bonne année. Il manquait ici deux petits mots: on a 20 m point mousse de chaque côté, y compris les m de la bordure devant. Bon tricot!

Inge Umans 31.12.2018 - 14:26:

Bij het vest moet een markeerdraad worden ingevoegd en worden mee gebreid. Wat wordt hiermee bedoeld? Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord. Inge

DROPS Design 01.01.2019 kl. 17:14:

Dag Inge,

De markeerdraad is een kort stukje draad (restant van een andere kleur) of een speciale markeerspeld. Deze voeg je in de steek (van de goede naar de verkeerde kant. De markeerdraden geven aan waar de zijnaden zitten, zodat je weet waar je moet minderen/meerderen. Je neemt de markeerdraden tijdens het breien mee (dus je verplaatst ze mee omhoog, maar je breit er niet mee).

Inge Umans 31.12.2018 - 14:24:

Bij het vest moet een markeerdraad worden geplaatst en worden mee gebreid. Wat wordt hiermee bedoeld? Alvast bedankt, Inge Umans

Gisela 09.11.2018 - 19:32:

Mir fällt gerade auf, dass beim von Größe zu Größe jeweils 28 M mehr angeschlagen werden. Nur zwischen den Größen L/XL und XXL sind es doppelt so viele , nämlich 56M. Gibt es dafür einen Grund?

DROPS Design 12.11.2018 kl. 08:18:

Liebe Gisela, so hat man eine gerade Maschenanzahl und die Musteranzahl wird auch gerade sein. Die Maßen der fertigen Jacke finden Sie in der Maßskizze, wenn Sie mit der Größe unentschlossen sind, vergleichen Sie die Maßen einer ähnliche Jacke die Sie gerne haben und tragen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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